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  <title>Main Page</title>
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&lt;big&gt;'''EcoModder Wiki'''&lt;/big&gt;&lt;br&gt;
----
&lt;big&gt;'''| [http://www.ecomodder.com/forum Forum] | [http://www.ecomodder.com/blog Blog] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/emgarage.php Garage] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/tools.php Tools] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/fuel-economy-mpg-modifications.php Mods for FE] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php Hypermiling / Ecodriving Tips] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/ecomodder-store.php Store] | [http://www.ecomodder.com/forum/team FE Team Competition] |  [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/glossary-take-ii-3505.html Glossary] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/em_project_library.php Project Library] |'''&lt;/big&gt;

---------------------------------------------------
 
Welcome to the EcoModder Wiki.
 
As ecomodding grows, more and more information will get lost to time and the vortex that are forums. Being new, the Wiki is still in it's infancy, but do bear with it and remember some guidelines for use:

- This exists to store important facts, studies, and links to make them easy to use and grouped by topic.

- If you want to know something and it's not here, start a new article and invite others to help edit it.

- Don't just edit the Wiki willy-nilly, discuss on the talk pages first.

Happy wikiing,

Benjamin (SVOboy)

 
---------------------------------------------------
 
The Wiki is broken down in to 3 categories: Tips &amp; modifications, Group projects, and Reference Material. Each section has many sub pages. 
 
Enjoy looking and if you have data to add go for it! 
 
If you have questions just ask one of our wiki moderators:

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-daox.html Daox]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-saand.html saand]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-weather-spotter.html Weather Spotter (Ben L.)]

Users that are unable to edit the wiki may need to create a account on the wiki rather than using their existing ecomodder details.


== '''Tips and Modifications''' ==

=== List of modifications for better car efficiency ===
 
*'''Go to the [[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main|Car MPG Efficiency Modification Wiki List]].'''


=== List of tips for better car efficiency ===

*'''Go to the [[Hypermiling_Techniques|Hypermiling Techniques]].'''&lt;br&gt;
*'''Go to the [[EcoDriving_101|EcoDriving 101]].'''


=== List of tools for simulation and calculation of efficiency and modifications ===

*'''Go to the [[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]].'''


== '''Major Group Projects'''  ==

=== MPGuino Projects ===
MPGuino is an open source fuel economy computer (Arduino based) for any vehicle with electronic fuel injection and a Vehicle Speed Sensor.

*'''Go to the [[MPGuino|MPGuino development area]].'''


=== Open ReVolt Projects ===
"Open ReVolt Projects" the development of affordable EV Electronics: Motor controllers, DC Charger, BMS.

*'''Go to the [[Open ReVolt|Open ReVolt Projects Wiki]].'''


=== EcoModding Projects ===
This is the category where you can link or create a page for your cars modifications

*'''Go to the [[Ecomodding projects|EcoModding Projects]].'''


== '''Reference Material'''  ==

=== How to get your car EPA numbers? ===

*'''Go to the [http://fueleconomy.org/ EPA Fuel Economy Website]'''


=== Side mirrors regulations ===

*'''Go to the [[Mirror Laws by State (U.S.)]].'''&lt;br&gt;
*'''Go to the [[Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)]].'''


=== Wiring Diagrams ===

*'''Go to the [[Wiring diagrams]].'''


=== Vehicle Coefficient of Drag List ===

*'''Go to the [[Vehicle Coefficient of Drag List]].'''


=== How to calculate your Coefficient of drag. ===

*'''Go to the [http://www.instructables.com/id/Measure-the-drag-coefficient-of-your-car/ Coefficient of Drag (Cd) of your car].'''


=== Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) Maps­. ===

*'''Go to the [[Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) Maps]].'''


=== Aerodynamic graphs, charts, and ideal shapes. ===

*'''Go to the [[Reference threads on aerodynamics]].'''


=== Comparison list of batteries for EVs. ===

*'''Go to the [[EV_Batteries|EV Batteries list]].'''


=== Virtual Library. ===
A list of books and technical papers.
*'''Go to the [[Virtual_Library|Virtual Library]].'''

=== LED Conversion. ===
[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/L.E.D_conversion |LED page ]]

=== Rear Spoiler. ===
[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Rear_Spoiler |Rear spoiler ]]

== References ==

=== External links ===

[http://www.en.wikipedia.org Wikipedia]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.ecomodder.com/forum EcoModder Forum]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.ecomodder.com/blog EcoModder Blog]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.ecorenovator.org/ EcoRenovator Blog]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.aerocivic.com/ Aerocivic Website]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.metrompg.com/ MetroMPG Website]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.cleanmpg.com/ Wayne Gerdes Forum]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.fueleconomy.org/ EPA Fuel Economy Website]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.forkenswift.com/ Geo Metro EV Conversion]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.300mpg.org/ 300 MPG Blog]&lt;br&gt;</text>
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  <title>Car MPG Efficiency Modifications Main</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]] [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame]] [[Image:555px-Energy flows in car.svg.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Energy flow in a car]] Yo..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="18194" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]
[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame]]
[[Image:555px-Energy flows in car.svg.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Energy flow in a car]]
You will find a list of more than 65 car modifications that you can do to improve your car efficiency and increase MPG. This is the main wiki page for the list and links to details about how to perform a modification and the efficiency improvement expected.


Visitors to this site that want to get better fuel efficiency should find many ways to decrease their fuel usage with independantly tested improvement results, tested by ecomodder users. Visitors that are interested in these modifications or have other ideas may find the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/ ecomodder forums ] worthwhile as most of the data in this wiki has been generated by the forum users.&lt;br&gt;


All ecomodder users are encouraged to modify the pages contained in these links with their own experiences, users must sign in to modify pages. For all mods please only list scientifically backed information and please provide supporting references with links. Efficiency improvement results should only be based on back to back tests under the same conditions. If there is no proven tested efficiency improvement listed ecomodders are welcome to estimate an efficiency improvement however please state that it is an estimate.&lt;br&gt;


Any theoretical and untested mods please only include in the unproven mod section below.&lt;br&gt;


For any significant changes or suggestions to this page, please discuss here: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-wiki-up-running-thread-suggestions-14289.html Main Mod Page Forum Discussion Link]


Drivers can also perform efficient driving techniques for free efficiency gains.  See the wiki for a comprehensive list: [[Hypermiling_Techniques|Efficient Driving Techniques Wiki]]

See also the EcoModding Projects Pages on the wiki : [[EcoModding Projects|EcoModding Projects]]

== Proven or unproven theoretically effective mods  ==

Proven modifications which have been tried and tested will have efficiency numbers associated with the modification in the table&lt;br&gt;

=== Instrumentation  ===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
|[[Alternative_fuel_consumption_instruments|Alternative fuel consumption gauges&lt;br&gt;MPGuino DIY and others ]] || 0% to 25%  || $50-100 USD ||  || User experience info required
|-
|[[Lean_burn_indicator|Lean burn indicator ]] ||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
|[[Wide band Oxygen sensor with gauge ]] || 0% to 54% || $250 || 2 hours || User experience info required
|-
|[[ScanGauge_OBD-II_computer|ScanGauge OBD-II computer (and similar) ]] || ~26% &lt;br&gt;3 user average || $139 USD&lt;br&gt;3 user average || 48 Mins&lt;br&gt;3 user average || User experience info required
|-
|[[Thermal imaging]] || || $0-$2500 || Minutes || User experience info required
|-
|[[Vacuum_gauge|Vacuum gauge ]] ||  || $25 || 1 hour || User experience info required
|}

=== Aerodynamic mods ===

==== Aerodynamic Mods - Deletions  ====

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Front_license_plate|Front license plate removal ]] ||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Mud_flaps|Mud flaps (deletion) ]] ||  || $0 || 1 Hour || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Radio_antenna|Radio antenna (relocation/deletion) ]] || 0.166%&lt;br&gt; Theoretical improvement ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Raised_wing_type_rear_spoilers|Raised wing type rear spoilers (deletion) ]] ||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Roof_rack|Roof rack (OEM as well as aftermarket) (deletion) ]] || 14.6%&lt;br&gt;Single user || $0 || 0.5 - 2 Hours || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Shave_badges|Shave badges, door handles, rain gutters, etc. ]] ||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Side_mirrors|Side mirror/s (delete) ]] || 2.54%&lt;br&gt;6 user average ||$0 - $4 ||3 Hours ||
|-
| [[Windshield_wiper|Windshield wiper (deletion) ]] ||  || $0 || 0.5 Hour || User experience info required 
|}

==== Aerodynamic Mods - Fabrication  ====

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[aerodynamic_front_bumper|Aerodynamic front bumper cover Swap/fabricate ]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Belly_pan|Belly pan / under tray]]|| 3.09% Using pessimistic estimates&lt;br&gt; 6 user average || $21.25&lt;br&gt;4 user average || 6 Hours&lt;br&gt;5 user average || User experience info required
|-
| [[Boat-tailing_behind_tires|Boat-tailing behind tires]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Decrease_hood_to_windshield_angle|Decrease hood to windshield angle]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Front_air_dam|Front air dam]]|| 4.73%&lt;br&gt;3 user average || $5&lt;br&gt;3 user average|| 1 Hour&lt;br&gt;3 user average || More user experience info preferred
|-
| [[Front_wheel_arch_gap_fillers|Front wheel arch gap fillers]]|| 3.23%&lt;br&gt;1 user average|| $3&lt;br&gt;1 user average|| 1 hour&lt;br&gt;1 user average|| User experience info required
|-
| [[Frontal_area_reduction|Frontal area reduction]]|| 13.5% estimate&lt;br&gt;Single user ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Full_boat_tail|Full boat tail]]|| 10.2%&lt;br&gt;2 user average || $300&lt;br&gt;2 user average || 25 Hours&lt;br&gt;2 user average || User experience info required
|-
| [[Grill block partial or full]]|| 2.89% &lt;br&gt; 5 user average || $7.50&lt;br&gt;6 user average || 3 Hours&lt;br&gt;6 user average|| 
|-
| [[Partial_Kammback|Partial Kammback]]|| 4%&lt;br&gt;2 user average || $12.50&lt;br&gt;2 user average || 12 hours&lt;br&gt;two user average || More user experience info preferred
|-
| [[Pickup_truck_aeroshell|Pickup truck aeroshell/fastback bed cover]]|| 7.98%&lt;br&gt;2 user average || $300&lt;br&gt;Single user || 20 hours&lt;br&gt;Single user || User experience info required
|-
| [[Pickup_truck_tonneau_cover|Pickup truck tonneau cover (partial or full)]]|| 6% || $300-$1000 || external users || User experience info required
|-
| [[Rear_corner_airflow_trip_feature|Rear corner airflow trip feature]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Rear_Spoiler|Rear Spoiler]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Ride_height_reduction|Ride height reduction]]|| -0.02Cd per inch of reduction || $250 || 4hr || User experience info required
|-
| [[Sealed_panel_gaps|Sealed panel gaps]]||  || $0&lt;br&gt;single user average || 10 Mins&lt;br&gt;single user average || User experience info required
|-
| [[Side_skirts|Side skirts]]  || 1% || $2&lt;br&gt;single user average || 1 Hour&lt;br&gt;single user average || Information Required, More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Smooth_wheel_covers|Smooth wheel covers]]|| 3.56%&lt;br&gt;5 user average || $4.50 per wheel&lt;br&gt;3 user average || 4 Minuets to 1 Hour&lt;br&gt;5 users || More user experience info preferred
|-
| [[radius_front_wheel_arches|Soften / radius aft edge of front wheel arches ]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Tire_spats|Tire spats, or fully contoured deflectors]]||  || $0&lt;br&gt;single user average || 30Mn&lt;br&gt;single user average || User experience info required
|-
| [[Upgrade_headlights|Upgrade headlights from "bucket" or pop-up style to aero assemblies]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Rear_wheel_skirts|Wheel skirts rear]]|| 2.69%&lt;br&gt;3 user average  || $15.5&lt;br&gt;2 user average || 4 Hours&lt;br&gt;3 user average || More user experience info preferred 
|-
| [[Front_wheel_skirts|Wheel skirts front]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required
|-
| [[Wheel_Arch_Mud_Flaps|Wheel Arch Mud Flaps]]|| || 1$&lt;br&gt;1 user average || 2 Hours&lt;br&gt;1 user average || More User Experience Info Required, More Efficiency Numbers Required 
|-
| [[Windshield_wiper_cover|Windshield wiper cover]] || 1.5% &lt;br&gt;single user average  || $10&lt;br&gt;2 users Average  || 2-3 hours&lt;br&gt;2 users average   || More Efficiency Numbers Required, User experience info required
|}

=== Drivetrain Mods ===

==== Drivetrain Mods - Engine Mechanical  ====
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Advanced_ignition_timing|Advanced ignition timing]]||  || $0-700 || Continuous || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Car_idle_reduction|Car idle reduction]] || 22.7% Reduction at idle&lt;br&gt;0% Engine warm up&lt;br&gt;0% Accelerating&lt;br&gt;0% Coasting&lt;br&gt;Single user || $0 || 2 Hours || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Cold_Air_and_Ram_Air|Cold air and Ram air for diesels]]|| up to 9% || $0-$400 || 1-4 hours || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Cold_Start_idle_reduction|Cold start idle reduction]]  || 0.108 L Maximum saved when started cold&lt;br&gt;Single user || $0 || 1 Hour || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Economy_camshaft_swap|Economy camshaft swap]] ||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Engine_kill_switch|Engine kill switch for easier Pulse &amp; Glide / Engine off Coasting]]|| NA ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Engine_swap|Engine swap]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[warm_air_intake|Hot / warm air intake for gasoline enignes]]||  || $0-$100 || 1-2 hours  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Increased_compression_ratio|Increased compression ratio]]|| 1.4% to 3.5% theoretical increase per point compression is raised || $0-$2000 || 2hr-16hr || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Lean_burn|Lean burn (adjust air fuel mixture)]]  || 20% to 54% || $0-$1,000 || up to 12 hours || Information Required
|-
| [[Synthetic_oil|Synthetic oil]]|| LESS than 1% guess&lt;br&gt;Single user || +$10 per oil change || oil change || User experience info required 
|-
| [[lowest_viscosity_engine_oil|Use lowest viscosity engine oil recommended by OEM]]|| up to 3% tested by external users || +$20 per oil change || oil change || User experience info required
|-
| [[Gapless top piston rings]]|| External user ~3% increase in efficiency || $10-$30 per cylinder || 6-12 hours || User experience info required
|-
| [[Turbo charging]]|| up to 20% (w/diesel) || $500-$3000 || 4-24 hours || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Water injection]]|| 6% tested by external diesel users || $160-$800 || 2-6 hours || User experience info required 

|}

==== Drivetrain Mods - Engine Accessory  ====

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="10%"| Time Effort !!width="25%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[AC_delete|A/C delete]]||  || $0 || 2 Hours || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Alternator_delete|Alternator delete]]|| 6.25%&lt;br&gt;2 users || $0 ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Alternator_Disable_Switch|Alternator Disable Switch]]  || 5% to 10% || $30 || 1-3 hours || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Block_Heater|Block Heater]]|| 4%&lt;br&gt;2 user average || $52.5&lt;br&gt;3 user average || 1.5 hour&lt;br&gt;3 user average || User efficiency info required 
|-
| [[Coolant_Heater|Coolant heater ]]||  || $100 to $700 || 1 to 5 hours || User efficiency info required
|-
| [[Electric_coolant_water_pump|Electric coolant / water pump]]||  || $160-$500 ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Mechanical_to_electric_radiator_fan|Mechanical to electric radiator fan swap]]|| 14% &lt;br&gt;Single User ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Power_steering_delete|Power steering delete / manual steering rack swap]]|| OEM's get a 1-2 MPG gain || $0 || 2 Hours || P/S system applies up to a constant 1 to 2 horsepower drag on engine at speed
|-
| [[Power_steering_electrohydraulic_conversions|Power steering electrohydraulic conversions]]&lt;br&gt; Converting a standard continuous belt driven P/S to run only part time by use of electric pump or clutched pump|| OEM's get a 1-2 MPG gain || Lots of $$$$ || Many Hours || P/S system applies up to a constant 1 to 2 horsepower drag on engine at speed
|}

==== Drivetrain Mods - Transmission/Differential  ====

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Regear_for_lower_cruising_RPM|Regear for lower cruising RPM]]|| 12.7%&lt;br&gt;4 user mods averaged || $120 ||  || More user experience info desired
|-
| [[automatic_to_manual_transmission|Swap from automatic to manual transmission]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Manumatic|Automatic transmission manual gear control (Manumatic)]] ||  || $5 &lt;br&gt; Single User || 4 Hours &lt;br&gt; Single User ||  More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Synthetic_axle_and_wheel_bearing_lube|Synthetic axle/wheel bearing lube]]|| 1% || $15 || 2 Hours || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Synthetic_transmission_oil|Synthetic transmission/differential oil]]|| 1% || up to $10/Qt. || 1 Hour || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Torque_Converter_Lockup|Torque converter lock up control]]  || 12% estimate || $2 || 2 Hours || User experience info required 
|-
| [[thinnest_transmission_oil|Use thinnest transmission / differential oil recommended by OEM]]|| ~3%&lt;br&gt;Single User || $12&lt;br&gt;Single User || 1 hour&lt;br&gt;Single User || 
|}

=== Electrical mods ===

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="15%"|Modification !!width="35%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Bigger battery]]|| Install a larger battery for alternator delete or long EOC with lights on || up to $400 || 0.3 to 4 hours || User experience info required
|-
| [[L.E.D conversion|L.E.D conversion]]|| done in addition to an alt delete or in addition to solar assist or to free up power if you added other electrical loads, save battery power during lights on EOC || $2 to $243 per bulb || 2-6 hours || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Solar_12v_assist|Solar 12v assist]]|| Removing electrical load from alt. is good for up to +5% &lt;br&gt; or .1mpg per 100w replaced on large SUV vehicles || up to $3 per watt || 2-10 hours || User experience info required
|-
|}

=== Wheel &amp; Tire Mods ===

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Increase_tire_pressure_to_max_sidewall|Increase tire pressure to max sidewall]]|| 0.9% coast down distance increase based on 30PSI to 50PSI increase &lt;br&gt;(Single user) || $0 || 0 || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Lightweight_wheels|Lightweight wheels]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[low_rolling_resistance_tires|Replace tires with low rolling resistance tires]]|| 3.65-13% &lt;br&gt; External source Users (1) get 6.98%||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[skinny_tires|Replace tires with skinniest tires recommended by OEM]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Toe_In|Toe in set to zero]] || 8.54% &lt;br&gt; Single external user || 0$ || 1 Hour || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Taller_Tires|Taller Tires: bigger is better]]|| 0 to +5.7% || $1,000 for a set of 5 truck tires &lt;br&gt; A few hundred for a set of 4 car tires || 1 Hour || User experience info required 
|}

=== Other Mods ===

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Aftermarket_cruise_control|Aftermarket cruise control]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[fuel_economical_Cruise_control|Cruise control mod: fuel economy logic]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Electric_conversion|Electric conversion]]|| NA ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[General_maintenance|General maintenance ]]|| NA ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Hybrid_conversion|Hybrid conversion]]||  ||  ||  || User experience info required 
|-
| [[Weight_reduction|Weight reduction]]|| Theoretical improvement &lt;br&gt; 0.636% for every 50kg reduction &lt;br&gt; See the wiki for assumptions||  ||  || User experience info required 
|}

=== Motorcycle Mods ===

{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Aero_fairings|Aero fairings]]||  ||  ||  || More Info Required
|-
| [[Sprocket_swap|Sprocket swap]]||  ||  ||  || More Info Required
|}

== New Suggested Mods (Ideas or attempts) ==
These mods should be moved to the correct section after being well documented.
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Average Cost !!width="15%"| Time Effort !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Electrical_Loads|Reduced electrical loads]]  || 0.55% for 50W &lt;br&gt; Theoretical calculation ||  ||  || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
|}

== Dis-proven Mods (Hoax Products and non-working mods) ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Alternative names !!width="15%"| Average $$$ wasted !!width="15%"| Time Effort wasted !!width="20%"| More Info Required
|-
| [[Fuel_magnets|Fuel Magnets]]  ||  ||  ||  || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[HHO]]  || brown's gas  || few hundred to well over $1,000 ||  || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Liberator fuel saver]]  ||  || $39.95 ||  || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Tornado_insert|Tornado Intake Insert]]  ||  ||  ||  || More Efficiency Numbers Required
|-
| [[Nitrogen tire inflation]]  ||  || $0 to $50 || Tire servicing || More Efficiency Numbers Required 
|}

== Template ==

[[Car_mod_template|Template for new mod]]</text>
    <sha1>1a4917a002b50905552636fb140ac1679284f410</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Alternative fuel consumption instruments</title>
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  <id>3</id>
  <revision>
    <id>4</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T15:56:06Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:MPGuino_Enclosure_mounted.jpg|right|thumb|400px|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; "MPGuino" is..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3924" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:MPGuino_Enclosure_mounted.jpg|right|thumb|400px|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
"MPGuino" is a DIY, open source digital fuel economy display for cars with electronic fuel injection that can be made for about $40-50 from readily available components.

It's ideal for people with older cars, where a commercial OBD-II computer can't be used (or isn't affordable).

The SuperMID is a similar open source device (knowledge of the Japanese language for documentation may be useful).

Other alternatives exist, see the options table below

[[MPGuino|MPGuino detailed wiki page]]

== Options ==

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ Instrument Options
! Name of instrument !! Car Type it will work on !! Cost instrument !! User feedback
|-
|Scangauge 2 || Cars that have an OBD2 interface || $150 ||
|-
|[[MPGuino]] || Most cars with electronic fuel injection || $50 ||
|-
|SuperMID ||  ||  ||
|-
|PLX kiwi ||  || $90 ||
|-
|Maxitrip ||  || $70 ||
|-
|AutoMeter 9110 ecometer || Any car with electronic fuel injection ||  || From a user report

The AutoMeter 9100 ecometer is neither as versatile nor as functional as the SGII, although it *is* cheaper in cost.

Its MPG display is as accurate as the SGII, but its MPH and RPM displays were always "dithering" around a value and seemingly never "settled" down.

Most damningly, the 9100 literally "...ran down the battery..." in my brand-new Vibe after only 6 days of inactivity! This has NEVER happened with the SGII that I now use.
|-
|Golink ||  || $100 || This is an OBD to iphone or ipad cable comes with free iphone application software 

[http://gopointtech.com/blog/products/ Products, goPoint Technology]
|-
|Ultragauge || Cars that have an OBD2 interface || $60 || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/scangauge-alternatives-13158-2.html#post190432 See ecomodder user phantoms feedback]

[http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34321 Review on cleanmpg site]

[http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm Ultra gauge website]
|-
|Fuel efficiency characterization project ||  ||  || 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/announcing-complete-solution-mapping-engine-efficiency-12478.html Forum thread for project]
|}

== Instructions for mod ==
Refer to installation manual for particular device&lt;br&gt;

For OBD2 devices typical installation will be &lt;br&gt;
-Plug the OBD connector into the instrument&lt;br&gt;
-Mount the instrument&lt;br&gt;
-Maybe connect power&lt;br&gt;

For instruments that use the injector signal typically the installer will need to connect the device to the following &lt;br&gt;
- An injector signal &lt;br&gt;
- Speed / odometer signal&lt;br&gt;
- Battery for power&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Enter your data here || Enter your data here || Enter your data here || Enter your data here || Enter your data here || Enter your data here || Enter your data here || 
|}

The efficiency effects of this mod are likely to be the same as for a scangauge. Refer to [[ScanGauge_OBD-II_computer|ScanGauge OBD-II computer (and similar) ]] for more efficiency numbers.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Some unit installations requires connection to injector signal. A faulty unit or poor installation may stop injector firing properly (Although unlikely)

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/instrumentation.html EcoModder Instrumentation forum]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/supermid-fuel-economy-display-54.html SuperMID - Fuel Economy Display]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/scangauge-alternatives-13158.html ScanGauge Alternatives]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>8723961c9012103a19d93fa17ee8743b25415c8b</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>MPGuino</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
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    <id>5</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T15:58:01Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]] [[Image:MPGuino_Enclosure_mounted.jpg|right|thumb|400px|]]      MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="36476" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]
[[Image:MPGuino_Enclosure_mounted.jpg|right|thumb|400px|]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino_Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
    <sha1>df0819432df5b3208a6c33fb0bab3ac37a6b0740</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Mpguino tests</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>5</id>
  <revision>
    <id>6</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:08:37Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "When you are done building a [[MPGuino]], you may want to perform some quick tests on key points with an ohmmeter to help ensure it was built correctly and that it will not ha..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1348" xml:space="preserve">When you are done building a [[MPGuino]], you may want to perform some quick tests on key points with an ohmmeter to help ensure it was built correctly and that it will not have an adverse effect on your vehicle.

The test points of interest are labeled in the picture below:
[[Image:Quicktests.JPG ]]

Below are measurements from a working [[MPGuino]].  As long as your readings are within an order of magnitude then it is probably safe to connect it to the car.

The meter was on k-ohms, where the red lead was positive.  The column on the left are the points to place the black lead and the row on top are the test points to place the red leads.

&lt;table border=1 width=50%&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;A&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;B&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;C&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;D&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;A&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;1.2M&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;	
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;B&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;1.5M&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;C&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;D&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;1.7M&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;/table&gt;

&lt;table border=1 width=30%&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;1&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td width=20%&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;1&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;1.3M&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;5.6k&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;2&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;Inf&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;8.6K&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;tr&gt;&lt;td&gt;3&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;2.4M&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;4.6k&lt;/td&gt;&lt;td&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&lt;/tr&gt;
&lt;/table&gt;</text>
    <sha1>b3e408af4ef84580e805217b40eed6a95be8051e</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Code hacks</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>6</id>
  <revision>
    <id>7</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:11:43Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "__TOC__   == Overview == This is intended as a collaborative place for publishing code patches for various projects, or possibly a complete project if it is small (though sepa..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="30531" xml:space="preserve">__TOC__ 

== Overview ==
This is intended as a collaborative place for publishing code patches for various projects, or possibly a complete project if it is small (though separate wiki page might do too).  Try to say which version of the code the patch is based on if available.

'''Why is this needed'''?  Well a main project might maintain a certain level of testing and want to be able to say with confidence that a specific release works and has not broken anything since the previous release, and may not have the manpower to incorporate a lot of options and test all permutations.  But those concerns are counter to the "hybrid vigor" that occurs when people can work on one aspect of a program.  So there needs to be some place where anyone can put an example concept together for perhaps a customized piece of hardware or situation, or an interesting feature the project keepers cannot incorporate into the main repository in a timely manner.

'''Intended Audience''', this is really for hackers, and folks who already posses similar skill sets.  It is not meant as a learning tool though it may lead to unintended learning.  This is not a place for discussions though, use the discussion tab or the forum.

== Red &amp; Green leds to determine if you are doing better or worse than your average ==

This is an idea that was posted by [http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-ac7ss.html ac7ss] in the workspace thread and then a [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/modding-mpguino-5411.html thread] was created for it, but no further action was taken it seems.

Connect a Green LED to pin 10 and a Red one to pin 11 with proper resistors.


The logic of the code could be improved some though ie...
*Green on / Red off - Current MPG greater then Tank Average
*Green on / Red on - Current MPG equals Tank Average
*Green off / Red on - Current MPG less then Tank Average


&lt;pre&gt;
// in header section
#define GreenLed 10       
#define RedLed 11
...
// in setup()
pinMode(GreenLed,OUTPUT);       
pinMode(RedLed,OUTPUT);       
...
// After sei() call in loop()
if(lastActivity != nil){
  if(instantmpg()&gt;tank.mpg()){
    //turn on GreenLed
    digitalWrite( GreenLed, HIGH); 
  }else{
    //turn off GreenLed
    digitalWrite( GreenLed, LOW);
  }
  if(instantmpg()&gt;current.mpg()){
    //turn off RedLed
    digitalWrite( RedLed, LOW);
  }else{
    //turn on RedLed
    digitalWrite( RedLed, HIGH);
  }
}else{
  //turn off both lights if we are in sleep mode.
  digitalWrite( RedLed, LOW);
  digitalWrite( GreenLed, LOW);
}
&lt;/pre&gt;

== VFD Display for mpguino ==

[[Image:Mpguinovfd.jpg]]

Occasional extreme low temperatures and general interest in heads up display have led to some discussion about using a Vacuum Fluorescent Display (vfd) [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_fluorescent_display].  Newhaven Display part number M0216SD-162SDAR2-1 (~$35) is a close analogue of the current LCD display, so much so that it displays without doing anything but wiring it up to the mpguino.  However a slight code tweak is required to reclaim control over brightness and display on/off as with this unit those functions are commands as the LED backlight pins are absent.

To regain brightness control and have the mpguino turn off/on the display automatically:
based on version 0.75 of the mpguino code in google repository.  In order of appearance:

&lt;pre&gt;
change:      analogWrite(BrightnessPin,brightness[brightnessIdx]);   
to: LCD::LcdCommandWrite(B00101000+brightnessIdx);

change:      analogWrite(BrightnessPin,brightness[0]);    //nitey night
to: LCD::LcdCommandWrite(B00001000);

change:    analogWrite(BrightnessPin,brightness[brightnessIdx]);  //wake up!!!
to: LCD::LcdCommandWrite(B00001100);

change (2nd instance):      analogWrite(BrightnessPin,brightness[brightnessIdx]);     
to: LCD::LcdCommandWrite(B00101000+brightnessIdx);
&lt;/pre&gt;

'''Follow up note''':  Testing has implied that the VFD appears to be impractical, as it draws a lot of current (overheats existing guino power supply) and is not visible in direct sunlight as one might encounter frequently in a moving vehicle, which also means it is not useable for a HUD.  Add in the additional costs and it is hard to justify going this route for a couple days out of the year of waiting for the LCD to thaw.

--[[User:Dcb|Dcb]] 07:39, 24 April 2009 (EDT)

== Enhanced Large Font ==

[[Image:New_font_sm.png]]

I've made a lot of changes and cleanups to 0.75, but in general this is a simple hack.  Had I not made so many changes I could just post a patch here but my patch would be pretty large.

Start by adding this line near the top of the mpguino.pde file:

&lt;pre&gt;#define CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE                       2  // 1=Default 2=Modified&lt;/pre&gt;

By setting this to '1' before you compile, you'll get the current font.  Set it to '2' and then recompile, and you get the new, 'rounder' big font.  The big font adds about 20 bytes to the compiled code size.

Find the declaration for bignumchars1 and bignumchars2.  Delete these lines.  Now add the following code near the top of the file, probably right underneath the CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE line you see above.

&lt;pre&gt;
#if (CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE == 1)
   //32 = 0x20 = space
   const unsigned char LcdNewChars = 5;
   const unsigned char LcdCharHeightPix = 8;
   char bignumchars1[]={4,1,4,0, 1,4,32,0, 3,3,4,0, 1,3,4,0, 4,2,4,0,   4,3,3,0, 4,3,3,0, 1,1,4,0,   4,3,4,0, 4,3,4,0};
   char bignumchars2[]={4,2,4,0, 2,4,2,0,  4,2,2,0, 2,2,4,0, 32,32,4,0, 2,2,4,0, 4,2,4,0, 32,4,32,0, 4,2,4,0, 2,2,4,0};
#elif (CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE == 2)
   //255 = 0xFF = all black character
   const unsigned char LcdNewChars = 8;
   const unsigned char LcdCharHeightPix = 8;
   char bignumchars1[]={7,1,8,0, 1,255,32,0,  3,3,8,0,   1,3,8,0, 255,2,255,0, 255,3,3,0, 7,3,3,0, 1,1,6,0,   7,3,8,0, 7,3,8,0};
   char bignumchars2[]={4,2,6,0, 32,255,32,0, 255,2,2,0, 2,2,6,0, 32,32,255,0, 2,2,6,0,   4,2,6,0, 32,7,32,0, 4,2,6,0, 2,2,6,0};
#endif
&lt;/pre&gt;

The above will eventually tell the LCD how to represent the new characters.  bignumchars1 is line 1 of the LCD, and bignumchars2 is line 2.  Each grouping of four numbers ("null-terminated" with a zero) points to the new characters we will define next.  So for example, the large font number zero consists of:

Special character 7, 1, and 8 on line 1, and special characters 4, 2, and 6 on line 2.  

Entries above like 255 and 32 point to already-existing characters in the LCD.  255 (or 0xFF in hex) points to a character that is a solid block.  32 (0x20) is a space (empty character).

Now find the chars[] declaration.  Delete it, and replace it with this:

&lt;pre&gt;
#if (CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE == 1)
  static byte chars[] PROGMEM = {
    B11111,B00000,B11111,B11111,B00000,
    B11111,B00000,B11111,B11111,B00000,
    B11111,B00000,B11111,B11111,B00000,
    B00000,B00000,B00000,B11111,B00000,
    B00000,B00000,B00000,B11111,B00000,
    B00000,B11111,B11111,B11111,B01110,
    B00000,B11111,B11111,B11111,B01110,
    B00000,B11111,B11111,B11111,B01110};
#elif (CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE == 2)
  /* XXX: For whatever reason I can not figure out how 
   * to store more than 8 chars in the LCD CGRAM */
  static byte chars[] PROGMEM = {
    B11111, B00000, B11111, B11111, B00000, B11111, B00111, B11100, 
    B11111, B00000, B11111, B11111, B00000, B11111, B01111, B11110, 
    B00000, B00000, B00000, B11111, B00000, B11111, B11111, B11111, 
    B00000, B00000, B00000, B11111, B00000, B11111, B11111, B11111, 
    B00000, B00000, B00000, B11111, B00000, B11111, B11111, B11111, 
    B00000, B00000, B00000, B11111, B01110, B11111, B11111, B11111,
    B00000, B11111, B11111, B01111, B01110, B11110, B11111, B11111,
    B00000, B11111, B11111, B00111, B01110, B11100, B11111, B11111};
#endif
&lt;/pre&gt;

The above are binary representations of the pixels for the custom characters that we will upload to a special scratch area in the LCD.  Each 'block' above is a number in the character generator RAM starting with 1 and going up to 8.

Now find the code that looks like this below, and either alter it so it looks EXACTLY like this, or just delete it and replace it with this:

&lt;pre&gt;
    /* write the character data to the character generator ram */
    for(byte x=0;x&lt;LcdNewChars;x++) {
      for(byte y=0;y&lt;LcdCharHeightPix;y++) {
          LcdDataWrite(pgm_read_byte(&amp;chars[y*LcdNewChars+x])); 
      }
    }
&lt;/pre&gt;

I could not figure out how to cram more than eight characters into the LCD's CGRAM.  If anyone can help with this I would add a few more characters to make this font even nicer.  By following the above structure, you can see how to add a CFG_BIGFONT_TYPE 3, and create your own font variant.

--[[User:Skelly|Skelly]] 07:05, 24 April 2009 (EDT)


== more precision ==
Singletree5990 has modified his kit version to monitor injector pulse counts and system voltage, and is also looking into monitoring other variables such as fuel temperature in search of ultimate precision.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/possible-way-measure-injector-characteristics-8382.html#post110622

== Save Current Tank Data / Archive Tank Summary / Track Gas-Used per Speed Range ==
Here are a couple or three mods I've made to my MPGuino:

1a) &lt;b&gt;Save current tank data to the eeprom, at the 7-minute sleep point.&lt;/b&gt;  If there is a power loss or reset, tank data will be restored at restart.  Also, if you are afraid of a thief stealing your 'guino, you can also force a save through the "Hold Tank" menu option (Left+Middle, then Right), then unplug it, without waiting the 7 minutes to auto-save.

1b)&lt;b&gt; Archive summaries of tanks (or current trips, if you like) to the eeprom. &lt;/b&gt;You can later browse through each tank's data:
Miles, Gallons, MPG, Avg MPH, Idle Gallons, EOC Miles, and a 10-digit numerical note (date, dollars, whatever... finally found a use for the Scratchpad parm :)  Most of us are writing this all down anyway, but why not keep a digital copy too?   Tanks are stored in a queue, so if you run out of eeprom space for your next tank, it will overwrite the oldest.

2) &lt;b&gt;Track the percentage of gas used at different speeds.&lt;/b&gt;  Here, we have 8 speed ranges (plus a ninth, "Idle"):
Idle, 1-29mph, 30-39, 40-49, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x, and 90+.  There is a new screen to display these in real-time.  Also, if used in conjunction with the above Tank Archive mod, the gas/speed percentages will be archived for later viewing.  This data, I hope, can possibly help you analyze why/where/how you were wasting gas... all without external data logging.


Both mods can be compiled together or independently of each other, via compile-time options 
"#define TrackSpeedGas" and "#define SaveTankToEeprom".  I've only tested these on a 168 with v0.82, but they should also work with v0.75.  A 328 should give you a lot more archive storage.

Anyway, on with the show:


Add these #define's near the top of your source.
&lt;pre&gt;
#define eepromSize 512          //512 for atmega168, 1024 for 328

#define TrackSpeedGas           // Define this to track gas used at different speeds.
                                // Costs 85ram + 814 bytes/v0016  766 bytes/v0011
#define SaveTankToEeprom        // Define this to enable Tank data save/restore/view
                                // Save/Restore current "live" tank dataset, or
                                // Archive &amp; View tank summaries
                                // Costs 1432 bytes/v0016  1366 bytes/v0011
//#define SaveCurrentToEeprom   // Uncomment this if you also want to protect Current Trip from power-loss
                                // If your Current auto-clears after 7 minutes, you probably won't need this

#define eeParmStart  4  //eeprom location, beginning of parms[]

#define savetanksig   B11101101
#define eeTankSig       eepromSize-1    //last byte of eeprom
#define eeTankQueueIdx  eepromSize-2    //2nd last byte of eeprom, contains queue # of last tank summary saved

#ifdef SaveCurrentToEeprom
#define eeHoldTankSize   (sizeof(Trip)+sizeof(Trip)+sizeof(injSpeedHiSec)+sizeof(injSpeedHius))
//136 = 36+36+32+32  ... or 36+36+1+1, if !TrackSpeedGas
#else
#define eeHoldTankSize   (sizeof(Trip)+sizeof(injSpeedHiSec)+sizeof(injSpeedHius))
//100 = 36+32+32   ... or 36+1+1, if !TrackSpeedGas
#endif

#define eeHoldTankStart  (eeTankQueueIdx - eeHoldTankSize)
        //start byte of where to store live tank data (in event of power loss)
#define eeHoldCurrentStart  (eeHoldTankStart + sizeof(Trip))
        //start byte of where to store live current-trip data (in event of power loss)
#define eeHoldSpeedGasStart  (eeTankQueueIdx - sizeof(injSpeedHiSec) - sizeof(injSpeedHius))
#define eeTankArchiveStart  (eeHoldTankStart - eeTankArchiveSize)
 #ifdef TrackSpeedGas
#define eeTankArchiveSize   (9+11+4)
 #else
#define eeTankArchiveSize   (11+4)
 #endif
//      15 bytes to save: 99.99 gallons, 99.99 idle, 99.99 mph, 99.99 eoc, 9999.99 miles, 4-byte decimal note (2+2+2+2+3+4)
//      optionally, store additional 9 bytes (1 3-digit percent of gas-used for 8 speed ranges + idle)

#define eeTankQueueMax   ((eeHoldTankStart-eeParmStart-sizeof(parms)-128) / eeTankArchiveSize)
//# of 20-byte tank summaries we will store.  store at end of eeprom, leave lower space for parms &amp; future growth
//start_loc_of_temp_tank_save) - (parms overhead) - 128 (future growth)

#define READ  0  //for eeprom_block()
#define WRITE 1  //for eeprom_block()
#define LeftButton ((buttonState &amp; lbuttonBit)==0)
#define MiddleButton ((buttonState &amp; mbuttonBit)==0)
#define RightButton ((buttonState &amp; rbuttonBit)==0)
&lt;/pre&gt;


Add these to your other function declarations section, if you have one.
&lt;pre&gt;
void readWriteCurrentTank (byte);
void updateSpeedGas (void);
void wipeBytes (byte *, int);
void eeprom_block (byte, byte *, int, int);
void viewTankHistory (void);
void doDisplaySpeedGas (void);
void displaySpeedGasPct (void);
byte menuButton (prog_char *, prog_char *);
char * format(unsigned long, char, char);
// ^-- Add this line.  Don't replace the original char *format(unsigned long);
&lt;/pre&gt;


Add these to your class Trip { } declaration
&lt;pre&gt;
  void archiveTank();
  void calcSpeedGasPct ();
&lt;/pre&gt;
 

Put these somewhere, maybe under the block of "unsigned volatile long ...InstInj..." lines
&lt;pre&gt;
#ifdef TrackSpeedGas
// 1-30, 30-40, 4x, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x, 90+ mph
unsigned long injSpeedHiSec[8]={0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0};
unsigned long  injSpeedHius[8]={0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0};

  #ifdef SaveTankToEeprom
  #define pctSpeedGas         archiveTankData
  #else
  byte pctSpeedGas[9]; // pct[0] contains "idle" %
  #endif
#else
  #ifdef SaveTankToEeprom  //if SaveTank, but not TrackSpeed, define these anyway
byte injSpeedHiSec[1], injSpeedHius[1];
  #endif
#endif

#ifdef SaveTankToEeprom
byte archiveTankData[24];  //9 pctSpeedGas + (2+2+2+2+3+4)
#define archTankGallons     (archiveTankData+9)
#define archTankIdleGallons (archiveTankData+11)
#define archTankMph         (archiveTankData+13)
#define archTankEocMiles    (archiveTankData+15)
#define archTankMiles       (archiveTankData+17) //only use 3 low bytes of (long) miles
#define archTankNote        (archiveTankData+20)
#endif
&lt;/pre&gt;


Add this to the pFunc displayFuncs[] ={  section
&lt;pre&gt;
#ifdef TrackSpeedGas
  doDisplaySpeedGas,
#endif
&lt;/pre&gt; 


Find your "char fBuff[7]" and change it to [18].  If you are enterprising,
you can delete mBuff[] and use fBuff in getStr(), rformat() &amp; uformat() to save a few bytes.
&lt;pre&gt;
char fBuff[18];   //used by format() and hhmmss()   18 bytes gives enough room for 2 hh:mm:ss
&lt;/pre&gt;


Add these lines to the top of the load() function:
&lt;pre&gt;
#ifdef SaveTankToEeprom
  readWriteCurrentTank(READ);
#endif
&lt;/pre&gt;


Add this to the displayFuncNames in setup()
&lt;pre&gt;
#ifdef TrackSpeedGas
  displayFuncNames[x++]=  PSTR("%Gas @ Speed "); 
#endif
&lt;/pre&gt;
 

In loop(), add this to the top ...
&lt;pre&gt;
  byte menuKey;
&lt;/pre&gt;


... then add the lines marked "//add this" near the update() commands...
&lt;pre&gt;
    current.update(instant);   //use instant to update current      
    tank.update(instant);      //use instant to update tank      
    #ifdef TrackSpeedGas        //add this
     updateSpeedGas();          //add this
    #endif                      //add this
  .
  .
  .
//wake up ...
        current.update(instant);
        tank.update(instant);
        #ifdef TrackSpeedGas    //add this
         updateSpeedGas();      //add this
        #endif                  //add this
      }else{
        lastActivity=loopStart;
        tankHold = tank.loopCount;
&lt;/pre&gt;    


... and add the Tank WRITE command to the timeout section...
&lt;pre&gt;
//currentTripResetTimeoutUS
    if(instant.vssPulses == 0 &amp;&amp; instant.injPulses == 0 &amp;&amp; holdDisplay==0){
      if(elapsedMicroseconds(lastActivity) &gt; parms[currentTripResetTimeoutUSIdx] &amp;&amp; lastActivity != nil){
        analogWrite(BrightnessPin,brightness[0]);    //nitey night
        readWriteCurrentTank(WRITE);   //add this line
        lastActivity = nil;
      }
&lt;/pre&gt;


... and replace the button section with this:
&lt;pre&gt;
//see if any buttons were pressed, display a brief message if so      

      if (LeftButton &amp;&amp; RightButton)
      {// left and right = initialize      
        LCD::print(getStr(PSTR("Setup ")));    
        initGuino();  //initGuino(0); // 0 == don't not edit == editParms
        lastActivity = microSeconds();  //update lastAct to prevent unwanted timeout after long submenu detour
        tmpTrip.reset(); //who knows what went on while we were in here
      }
        
#ifdef SaveTankToEeprom
      else if (LeftButton &amp;&amp; MiddleButton)  //nickdigger
      {//Save ...
        menuKey = menuButton(PSTR("Store View  Hold"), PSTR("Tank  Hist  Tank"));
        if (!(menuKey&amp;rbuttonBit)) { readWriteCurrentTank(WRITE); } //hold tank data, in case of reset
        else if (!(menuKey&amp;mbuttonBit))  { viewTankHistory(); }
//        else if (!(menuKey&amp;lbuttonBit)) { tank.archiveTank(); }
// add option to archive current or tank
        else if (!(menuKey&amp;lbuttonBit))  {
          menuKey = menuButton(PSTR("&lt;-Go Store Store"), PSTR("Back  Tank  Trip"));
          if (!(menuKey&amp;mbuttonBit)) tank.archiveTank();
          else if (!(menuKey&amp;rbuttonBit)) current.archiveTank();
        }
 
        lastActivity = microSeconds();  //update lastAct to prevent unwanted timeout
        tmpTrip.reset(); //who knows what went on while we were in here
      }
      else if(RightButton &amp;&amp; MiddleButton)  //nickdigger
      {// Clear ...
        menuKey=menuButton(PSTR("&lt;-Go Reset Reset"), PSTR("Back  Tank  Trip"));
        if ((menuKey&amp;rbuttonBit)==0) {
          current.reset();
          #ifdef SaveCurrentToEeprom
           EEPROM.write(eeHoldCurrentStart, savetanksig);
          #endif
        }
        else if (!(menuKey&amp;mbuttonBit)) {
          tank.reset();  EEPROM.write(eeHoldTankStart, savetanksig);
          #ifdef TrackSpeedGas
          wipeBytes((byte *)injSpeedHiSec, sizeof(injSpeedHiSec));
          wipeBytes((byte *)injSpeedHius,  sizeof(injSpeedHius));
          #endif
        }
        lastActivity = microSeconds();  //update lastAct to prevent unwanted timeout
        tmpTrip.reset(); //who knows what went on while we were in here
      }

#else // not SaveTankToEeprom
      else if (LeftButton &amp;&amp; MiddleButton)
      {// left and middle = tank reset      
        tank.reset();
        LCD::print(getStr(PSTR("Tank Reset ")));      
      }
      else if(RightButton &amp;&amp; MiddleButton)
      {// right and middle = current reset
        current.reset();
        LCD::print(getStr(PSTR("Current Reset ")));      
      }
#endif // SaveTankToEeprom

      else if (MiddleButton)
      { //middle is cycle through brightness settings      
        brightnessIdx = (brightnessIdx + 1) % brightnessLength;      
        analogWrite(BrightnessPin,brightness[brightnessIdx]);      
        LCD::print(getStr(PSTR("Brightness ")));      
        LCD::LcdDataWrite('0' + brightnessIdx);      
        LCD::LcdDataWrite(' ');      //print(" ");
      }
      else if (LeftButton)
      { //left is rotate through screeens to the left      
        if (screen!=0)  screen=(screen-1);       
        else            screen=displayFuncSize-1;      
        LCD::print(getStr(displayFuncNames[screen]));      
      }
      else if (RightButton)
      { //right is rotate through screeens to the left      
        screen=(screen+1)%displayFuncSize;      
        LCD::print(getStr(displayFuncNames[screen]));      
      }
///////////done checking keys
&lt;/pre&gt;


And now, the code:
&lt;pre&gt;
#ifdef TrackSpeedGas
void Trip::calcSpeedGasPct (void) {
//Calculate percent of gas used within each speed range, and store into 9-byte array
// idle, 1-30mph, 30-39, 40-49, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x, 90+
// We could do the calcs in displaySpeedGasPct, but we'll need to recycle that function to display saved tanks.
//
//nickdigger - 288 bytes v0016

  char i;
  unsigned long injHi = (injHiSec*1000 + injHius/1000);  // (injHiSec*100000 + injHius/10) / 100;
                //divide total injHi by 100, so when we divide each time set, we get xx%
  
  if (injHi == 0)  injHi = 1;  //avoid div-by-zero
  pctSpeedGas[0] = (byte) ( (injIdleHiSec*100000 + injIdleHius/10)/injHi );

  for (i=0; i&lt;8; i++)
    pctSpeedGas[i+1] = (byte) ( (injSpeedHiSec[i]*100000 + injSpeedHius[i]/10)/injHi );
  
  return;
  
} //Trip::calcSpeedGasPct()  

  
void displaySpeedGasPct (void) {
//Displays percent of gas used within each speed range: (reallllly squeezing the numbers in)
//i## &lt;30:## ## ##    (idle) (1-30mph) (30-39) (40-49)
//5x## ## ## ## ##    (50-59mph) (60-69) (70-79) (80-89) (90-up)
//
//nickdigger - 126 bytes v0016

  char i;
  
  LCD::gotoXY(0,0);
  LCD::LcdDataWrite('i');

  for (i=0; i&lt;9; i++)
  {
    LCD::print( format(pctSpeedGas[i],2,0) );
    if (i==0) LCD::print(" &lt;30:");
    else if (i==3) { LCD::gotoXY(0,1);  LCD::print("5x"); }
    else if (i&lt;8) LCD::LcdDataWrite(' ');
  }
} //displaySpeedGas()


void doDisplaySpeedGas (void)
{
  tank.calcSpeedGasPct();
  displaySpeedGasPct();
}
#endif //TrackSpeedGas


#ifdef TrackSpeedGas
void updateSpeedGas (void) {
// Accumulates injHius into injSpeedHiSec[]/Hius[] array, for each speed range of
// 1-30, 30-39, 40-49, 5x, 6x, 7x, 8x, and 90+ mph
//nickdigger - 256 bytes

  char i;
  byte imph, speedrange=90;

  if (instant.vssPulses == 0  || instant.injPulses &lt;= 2 || instant.injHius &gt;= 500000)
   return;  //chasing ghosts  &amp; ignoring vss==0

  imph = (byte) (instantmph()/1000ul);  //dont need 32bit comparison for 2-digit mph.  saves 10 bytes or so
  
  for (i=7; i&gt;=0; i--)
  {
    if (imph &gt;= speedrange || i==0)
    {
      injSpeedHius[i] += instant.injHius;
      if (injSpeedHius[i] &gt;=1000000ul)
      {
        injSpeedHiSec[i]++;
        injSpeedHius[i] -= 1000000ul;
      }
      break;  //we found &amp; updated our speed range, now quit
    }
    speedrange -= 10;
  } //for
  
} //updateSpeedGas()
#endif  //TrackSpeedGas


void eeprom_block (byte rw, byte *p, int start, int len)
{ //nickdigger
  for (int end=start+len; start &lt; end; p++)
    if (rw==WRITE)  EEPROM.write(start++, *p);
    else *p = EEPROM.read(start++);
}  //eeprom_blockread()


void wipeBytes (byte *p, int len)
{//nickdigger - sets len bytes to 0
  int i=0;
  while (i&lt;len)
    *(p + i++) = 0;
} //wipeBytes()


#ifdef SaveTankToEeprom
byte menuButton (prog_char *s1, prog_char *s2)
{ //nickdigger - print 2-string menu, wait for &amp; return button
  byte x;
  LCD::gotoXY(0,0);  LCD::print(getStr(s1));
  LCD::gotoXY(0,1);  LCD::print(getStr(s2));
  buttonState=buttonsUp;
  while (buttonState==buttonsUp)
    delay2(250);
  x=buttonState;
  buttonState=buttonsUp;
  return x;
} //menubutton()


void viewTankHistory ()
{
//nickdigger - 698 bytes
/*
tank## 12345note
9999.99mi 99.99g

99.9mpg 99.99mph
9.99idle 9.99eoc

pctSpeedpage

*/

  byte page=0, p0=5, q0=254, q=EEPROM.read(eeTankSig);

  if (q != savetanksig)  return;
  
  q=EEPROM.read(eeTankQueueIdx);
  buttonState=buttonsUp;
  
  while (! MiddleButton)
  {
    q %= eeTankQueueMax;
    if (q != q0)
      eeprom_block(READ, archiveTankData, 
                         eeTankArchiveStart - q*eeTankArchiveSize, eeTankArchiveSize);
    if (page != p0)
    {
      if (page==0) {
        LCD::gotoXY(0,0);   LCD::print(getStr(PSTR("Tank")));
        LCD::print(format((long) q,2,0));
        LCD::print(format(*(unsigned long *)archTankNote,10,0));
        LCD::gotoXY(0,1);  
        LCD::print(format( (*(long *)archTankMiles) &amp; 0x00ffffff ,6,2));  LCD::print("mi");
        LCD::print(format(*(int *)archTankGallons,5,2));  LCD::LcdDataWrite('g');
      }else if (page==1) {
        LCD::gotoXY(0,0);
        LCD::print(format( ((*(long *)archTankMiles) &amp; 0x00ffffff)*10 / 
                            (1 + *(int *)archTankGallons ), 3,1));
             //add .01 to gallons to prevent div-zero.  this will skew mpg for &lt; 1.00 gallons
        LCD::print("mpg");  
        LCD::print(format(*(int *)archTankMph,5,2));  LCD::print("mph");
        LCD::gotoXY(0,1);  LCD::print(format(*(int *)archTankIdleGallons, 3,2));
        LCD::print("idle");  LCD::print(format(*(int *)archTankEocMiles,4,2));  LCD::print("eoc");
      }else if (page==2)
        #ifdef TrackSpeedGas
        displaySpeedGasPct();
        #else
        page=0;  q0=q;  q++;
        #endif
    } //print page

    if (LeftButton)
    {
      p0=page;
      if (page==0) {page=2; q0=q; q=(q==0 ? eeTankQueueMax-1 : q-1); }
      else page--;
      buttonState=buttonsUp;
    } else if (RightButton)   
    {
      p0=page;
      if (page==2) {page=0; q0=q; q++; }
      else page++;
      buttonState=buttonsUp;
    }
    delay2(250);
  } //while
  buttonState=buttonsUp;
  
} //viewTankHistory()


void Trip::archiveTank (void)
{
//nickdigger - 408 bytes
//99.99 gallons, 9.99 idle, 99.99 mph, 9.99 eoc, 9999.99 miles, 32-bit decimal Note/Date (15 hex bytes 2+2+2+2+3+4)
//Because of stupid reverse-byte order, we'll store all 4 bytes of each element -- keeping the low 2 bytes, and 
//overwriting the high 2 bytes (always == 00) with the next element.  Good times.

  byte q=EEPROM.read(eeTankSig);

  if (q != savetanksig) { EEPROM.write(eeTankSig, savetanksig);  q=0; }
  else q=(1 + EEPROM.read(eeTankQueueIdx)) % eeTankQueueMax;

#ifdef TrackSpeedGas
  calcSpeedGasPct();
#endif
  *(unsigned long *)archTankGallons = gallons()/10;
  *(unsigned long *)archTankIdleGallons = idleGallons()/10;
  *(unsigned long *)archTankMph = mph()/10;
  *(unsigned long *)archTankEocMiles = eocMiles()/10;
  *(unsigned long *)archTankMiles = miles()/10; //Miles is only 3 bytes. 4th byte (==0) is overwritten by Note
  editParm(scratchpadIdx);
    //eeprom_block(WRITE, (byte *)&amp;parms[scratchpadIdx], eeParmStart+scratchpadIdx*sizeof(long), sizeof(long));
    //save Note parm to eeprom for quick edit next time.
    //  On 2nd thought, don't save it.  Byte-order is not preserved with original 0.75/0.82 load().
  *(unsigned long *)archTankNote = parms[scratchpadIdx];
  
  eeprom_block(WRITE,archiveTankData,
                     eeTankArchiveStart - q*eeTankArchiveSize,
                     eeTankArchiveSize);
  EEPROM.write(eeTankQueueIdx, q);

}  //archiveTank()


void readWriteCurrentTank (byte rw)
{//nickdigger
/* EEPROM structure:
    511 SaveTankSig (B11101101)
    510 eeTankQueueIdx (# of last tank archived)
478-509 injSpeedHius
446-477 injSpeedHiSec
410-445 current trip hold data (optional)
374-409 tank hold data
354-373 archive tank summary #0
334-353 archive tank summary #1
314-333 archive tank summary #2
etc
etc more tanks, as space allows

 52-179 reserved for future use
  4- 51 parms[]
  0-  3 guinosig, parmcount, 2 empty bytes
*/

#ifdef SaveCurrentToEeprom
  if (rw==WRITE || EEPROM.read(eeHoldCurrentStart) != savetanksig)
    eeprom_block(rw, (byte *)&amp;current, eeHoldCurrentStart, sizeof(Trip));
#endif

  if (rw==WRITE || EEPROM.read(eeHoldTankStart) != savetanksig)
  {
    eeprom_block(rw, (byte *)&amp;tank, eeHoldTankStart, sizeof(Trip));
    #ifdef TrackSpeedGas
     eeprom_block(rw, (byte *)injSpeedHiSec, eeHoldSpeedGasStart, sizeof(injSpeedHiSec));
     eeprom_block(rw, (byte *)injSpeedHius, eeHoldSpeedGasStart + sizeof(injSpeedHiSec), sizeof(injSpeedHius));
    #endif
  }

}  //readWriteCurrentTank()
#endif //SaveTankToEeprom


//new flexible format(). 120 bytes larger than old format().
//function overloading in C++ allows this code to compile &amp; work
//without changing or deleting the old format(x) code

char* format(unsigned long num, char digits, char dp)  //nickdigger
{
//      v0011: 758 bytes for this format(x,len,dp) only, 638 for format(x) only, or 1000 for both.  Weird.
//      v0016: adding v2 to v1 costs 388 bytes;  adding v1 to v2 costs 238 bytes
//
//      Flexible length &amp; decimal places -- does not default to xx.xxx
//      Leading spaces instead of zer0s;
//
//      digits = max # of digits.  dp = # of decimal places desired
//      Overall output length = digits + 1, if dp&gt;0;  else length = digits
//      
//      len.dp : E.g. 4.1 = xxx.y, 5.2 = xxx.yy, 4.0 = xxxx
//      If num is too large to fit len.dp, we will displace decimals 
//      to preserve the more significant (large) digits.
//      E.g, (12345,4,2) wants to display 123.45 but we only have 4 digits.  So, we print 123.5
//      (12345,4,1) prints " 1234".  (123456,4,1) prints " 9999"

  char i=1, dp0=dp;
  unsigned long limit=10;

  while (i++ &lt; digits)  // Wow.  110 bytes for this little *=10 loop.  8 bit CPUs FTL.
    limit *= 10;
  i=0;
  while (dp &gt;0 &amp;&amp; i++ &lt;= dp)    //reduce decimal places if num is too big.
  {                             //e.g. (12345,4,1) should be "1234.5",
    if (num &gt;= limit)           //but we only have 4 digits, so print "1234".
    {
      if ((num%10) &gt; 4)         //round up dropped digit
        num+=10;  
      num /= 10;                   
      dp--;                        
    }
  }
  if (num &gt;= limit)  num=limit-1;   //if overflow, then 99999

  if (dp0 &gt; 0) i=digits;  //check dp0 to see if our string has 1 extra space for the '.'
  else         i=digits-1;
  fBuff[i+1]=0;
  dp=digits-dp;

  while (i &gt;= 0)
  {
    fBuff[i--] = (num==0 &amp;&amp; i&lt;dp-1 ? ' ' : '0'+(num%10) );
    num/=10;
    if (i==dp) fBuff[i--]='.';
  }
  return fBuff;
}  //format(x,dig,dp)
//nickdigger//
&lt;/pre&gt;

That's it.  I've since expanded the "Gas Used Per Speed Range" concept 
to include "Time Spent per Speed Range", but I made so many other changes
to the base data structures &amp; code, that it will no longer splice right into 
vanilla 0.75 or 0.82.

== Add your own hack ==
Hit the edit button to the right and figure it out.</text>
    <sha1>082254b328f04a2584234f986341a6b2d9fa7bd0</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Mpguino calibration</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>7</id>
  <revision>
    <id>8</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:13:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Back to main MPGuino page]   If the setup parameters for your vehicle are not in the table of car settings [http://ecomodder.com/w..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2909" xml:space="preserve">[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Back to main MPGuino page]


If the setup parameters for your vehicle are not in the table of car settings [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino#Table_of_Car_Settings] then you should do some calibration to ensure the readings will be accurate.  Please add your findings back to the table of car settings for the next person.

Step 1.  Go to gas station and fill up.  Note what pump you are at, where your car is in relation to the pump, the position of the pump nozzle in the tank, and the number of clicks you use, and even the time of day/temp.  

Step 2.  Before leaving the station, tap the left and middle buttons together and you should see a brief "tank reset" message", note your odometer reading (assuming your odometer is accurate)

Step 3. Drive around like normal.  The more the better, a couple hundred miles at least.

Step 4. Refill the tank, reproduce the conditions in step 1 as well as you can.  Bring a calculator and a pencil with you.

Step 5. Before leaving the station, determine the miles traveled since the previous refill based on the cars odometer, and the number of gallons you just pumped in.  Then go to the "Tank" screen and note the miles traveled and the gallons used according to the guino.  Then tap the right and left buttons once to bring up the setup screen and:


A. navigate to the "VSS Pulses/Mile" screen (hint, left and right buttons will proceed to the next setup value without saving any changes in the current value).  Take that value, multiply it by the number of miles the guino said you traveled, then divide it by the number of miles on the odo.  Adjust the value to this new value and hit OK.

i.e. newVSSPulsesPerMile = vsspulsesPerMile * guinomiles / odomiles.


B. on the "MicroSec/Gallon" screen, Take that value, multiply it by the number of gallons the guino said you used, then divide it by the number of gallons the pump says you just added.  Adjust the value to this new value and hit OK.

i.e. newMicroSecPerGallon = MicroSecPerGallon * guinoGallons / pumpGallons.


C. Navigate through the setup values till you are back at the tank screen.  It should now show accurate distance traveled and gallons used for this tank.

D. If you are happy with the displayed tank miles and gallons display then reset the tank with the left and middle buttons and drive on.  Otherwise double check your numbers on paper and in the setup.


NOTE:  The Mpguino counts VSS pulses, whether moving forward or in reverse, as mileage. How odometers record in reverse seems to vary.  Also if you do any EOC with the key off, your VSS may not work, and the Mpguino will not be recording mileage, but a mechanical odometer will continue to work. If your Mpguino shows slightly more mileage than you odometer, one (or both) of these may be the cause. (Don't attempt to calibrate the Mpguino to match the Odometer exactly)</text>
    <sha1>b23cc40b7b75c0a6cc40ffbe8bbae2cf238696f5</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>ScanGauge OBD-II computer</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>8</id>
  <revision>
    <id>9</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:21:38Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Sg2_withdims.jpg|right|ScanGauge-II (SG-II)|400px|frame]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Fuel..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3532" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Sg2_withdims.jpg|right|ScanGauge-II (SG-II)|400px|frame]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Fuel economy instrumentation is one of the simplest and most effective mods you can make. The [http://ecomodder.com/forum/scangauge-fuel-economy-gauge.php ScanGauge]ScanGauge fuel economy computer (shameless plug: we sell these here) is the plug-and-play tool of choice for most people who own 1996 or newer North American market vehicles.

Having instant and resettable trip fuel consumption feedback is critical not only for improving driving habits, but for evaluating other mods.

Other aftermarket/commercial options similar to the ScanGauge include plug-in OBD-II scan tools (which may require a laptop to view output), and the PLX Kiwi.

Scangauge costs about $150 USD or second hand market up to $130 USD

If no other modifications are performed on the car a scangauge will allow a driver to change their driving habits to improve efficiency as it gives real time feedback for fuel usage. A instantanious fuel/millage usage meter gives great value when evaluating a new modification or a new hypermilling technique.

== Instructions for mod ==
ScanGauge-II installs in just minutes without tools and does not require batteries or an external power source. All data and power are derived from the single OBDII connection. The detachable 1.8 metre cord also allows ScanGauge-II to be mounted just about anywhere on the dash or console while staying connected to your vehicle.

For more info :
[http://www.scangauge.com.au/support/index.html Scangauge FAQ and user manuals]

== X-Gauges Feature ==
ScanGauge-II as a built in feature which permit the user to add up to 25 gauges.

For more info on X-Gauges : 
[[X-Gauge_Commands_Repertory|X-Gauge Commands Repertory]]

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod (USD) !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Manufacturer data ||  || $150 USD ||  ||  ||  || 5% - 33% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/scangauge-fuel-economy-gauge.php ScanGauge]
|-
|Weather Spotter|| Toyota, matrix, 2006|| $98 || 10 Min || 32.1 || 40.1 || 24.9% || Follow the directions in box (plug and play)
|-
|Olympiadis|| Ford, Focus, 2003|| $160 || 2 Hour || 27.312 || 35.75 || 30.9% || 
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $160 || 15 Mins ||  ||  || Not tested. 20-30% MPG || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis SG-II]
|}

Note: The improvements listed are based on changed driving habits and high numbers will only be possible with hypermiling techniques.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
The Scangauge relies on interigating the cars ECU so if a cars ECU has been "fooled" by adjusting sensor inputs the scangauge may not work correctly.

== References ==

=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/instrumentation.html EcoModder Instrumentation forum]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/anyone-who-says-they-cant-afford-scangauge-4369.html For anyone who says they can't afford a ScanGauge]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-2.html#post269080 Echo-Francis SG-II]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/blog/plx-devices-kiwi-review/ PLX Devices Kiwi Review]</text>
    <sha1>694d4cf2dbb3ad137c23708d5c3b034b9c27fec9</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Lean burn indicator</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>9</id>
  <revision>
    <id>10</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:27:32Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:LeanBurn.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; More than a few EcoModd..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1893" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:LeanBurn.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
More than a few EcoModders are big fans of Honda's very efficient lean burn engines, the miserly 1992-1995 Civic VX in particular.

The key to driving one of these engines efficiently, not surprisingly, is keeping them in lean burn mode. Some drivers can "feel" the engine entering and exiting lean burn, but for those who are new at it, or whose butt-o-meters aren't as sensitive, instrumentation is your friend.

EM moderator TomO has written a how-to for using a digital multimeter to monitor lean burn. He's also possibly working on an LED indicator.

Lean burn can also be set up on other standard engines by fooling the ECU by modifying the O2 sensor output.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==


== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/article-lean-burn-otherwise-stock-engine-testing-acura-11717.html Article: Lean burn on an otherwise stock engine (testing Acura RSX K-Series engine)]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>37c73f56b3924684a75db95579e8d6b3a59ad846</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Wide band Oxygen sensor with gauge</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>10</id>
  <revision>
    <id>11</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:29:16Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wideband.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Wide band Oxygen sensor with gauge]] == Wide band oxygen sensor == A heated wide..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2075" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Wideband.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Wide band Oxygen sensor with gauge]]
== Wide band oxygen sensor ==
A heated wide band oxygen sensor coupled to a gauge can read a very large range of air fuel ratios.
They are typically off the shelf stand alone units that will work in any gasoline powered vehicle. They are some what price prohibitive since they typically sell for around $250 and up.
This mod could be used as an "off the shelf" answer for those looking to install a "lean burn indicator".&lt;br&gt;


== Instructions for mod ==
This is a fairly easy, straight forward mod. Normally you buy this as a kit, with the sensor, gauge, wiring and instructions. The most difficult part of the mod I see for the average person is it requires you to install a weld in oxygen sensor bung into the exhaust before the converter.&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| oil pan 4 || Camaro || About $200 USD and up || est. 1 Hour || N/A || N/A || A proper slightly lean tune could give up to 20% better FE over just winging it || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|-
| oil pan 4 || Chevy suburban 454 || About $200 USD and up || est. 1 Hour || 6.5mpg || 11mpg || Replaced a defective very rich running carb with a working one then tuned for lean burn || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Use the Air fuel ratio gauge to find a lean sweet spot. You can get better fuel economy and you will know if your fuel induction system is not performing properly.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

=== External links ===
[http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Gauges-Accessories/Section/Gauges-Individual/Part-Type/Gauges-Digital/Gauge-Type/Air-Fuel-ratio/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc 60+ oxygen sensor gauges]</text>
    <sha1>8e1289e40df5be47e1a05240980800ee72ebe638</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Thermal imaging</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>11</id>
  <revision>
    <id>12</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:30:22Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Toyota.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a Toyota pirus, visible light picture with thermal overlay]] Image:IR_01..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1853" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Toyota.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a Toyota pirus, visible light picture with thermal overlay]]
[[Image:IR_0138.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Pure thermography of chevy truck]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This mod is about trying to save engine heat.&lt;br&gt; 
Keeping heat in your engine longer so it takes less time to warm after the vehicle sits for a few hours or less.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
The first part of this mod is easy. Beg, barrow or steal a thermal imager and take pictures of your vehicle with a hot engine after sitting for an hour or two. &lt;br&gt;
Use the images to figure out where heat is escaping from the engine bay and try to slow down that heat transfer with added insulation, weather stripping, blankets, grill blocks or anything you can find laying around. (not as easy as snapping a few pictures)&lt;br&gt;
This is especially helpful during the cooler months.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&amp;lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
One could seal up the engine compartment too well and cause over heating problems.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/thermal-imaging-improving-fuel-economy-30827.html?highlight=thermal Thermal imaging improving fuel economy]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
    <sha1>3156b17e61050ceb26f699e53cdaa440cfe723af</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Vacuum gauge</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>12</id>
  <revision>
    <id>13</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T16:31:30Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:VacuumGauge.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Vacuum Gauge]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Vacuum i..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2964" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Instrumentation|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:VacuumGauge.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Vacuum Gauge]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Vacuum is generated in a car engine by the action of the pistons moving up and down, sucking air in during one cycle of the strokes. To give the ideal air fuel mixture the air feeding the engine is restricted therefore a vacuum forms. The vacuum is often made use of by the braking system which uses it to provide power and assist in actuating the breaks.


The vacuum level can be used by a hypermilling driver to improve driving technique. The lowly vacuum gauge is the grand-daddy of fuel economy instrumentation.


Installing and using one remains a cost effective way to help a driver fine tune certain driving tasks for better efficiency, particularly "driving with load" [http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hypermiling-driving-tips-ecodriving.php (aka DWL - see the 100+ Hypermiling Tips)]


As well as aiding efficiency, adding a vacuum gauge is useful as an indicator of the general health of an engine.


The purpose of a vacuum gauge is to measure how much throttle you are giving and how much load is on the engine. How it helps is by giving you feedback as to how hard you are on the throttle and can therefore ease off a little on the uphills and generally drive with as much vacuum as possible.

== General Vacuum information ==
A normal car engine in good condition will provide vacuum equal to about 17 to 21 inches of mercury , normally expressed as in/Hg.


A vacuum gauge can help identify and diagnose engine problems like mismatched carbs, timing not set correctly, worn rings and valves, air leaks and other items.


== Instructions for mod ==
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/econometer-vacuum-gauge-installation-guide-3428.html Econometer / vacuum gauge installation guide]

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
-Faulty installation can result in a unsealed vacuum line resulting in poorer engine performance

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/econometer-vacuum-gauge-installation-guide-3428.html Econometer / vacuum gauge installation guide]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/10-minute-accord-vacuum-gauge-install-6303.html 10-minute Accord vacuum gauge "install"]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/vacuum-pump-basics-8786.html Vacuum pump basics ]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>e606f327389412694ec2a6acc7d130cbbeea5eee</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Front license plate</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>13</id>
  <revision>
    <id>14</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:23:56Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ImagesCA0BS5AI.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Removing the Frontal License Plate]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Deletion/remov..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2128" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ImagesCA0BS5AI.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Removing the Frontal License Plate]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Deletion/removal of the front license plant and bracket can be a useful aeromod for some vehicles, though in others it may have no effect or possibly even a detrimental one. As a general rule of thumb, removal of the front plate and bracket should be considered if it will subtract from the total surface area of the front of the vehicle. If for instance it is already placed in front of a grill, removing it may actually allow more turbulent air to collect there, creating more drag and defeating the point.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
Remove the license plate and the remaining bolts that hold it to the bumper. Some brackets are held on with metal expanding clips and will need to have the center drilled out to remove.&lt;br&gt;
If your locale requires a front plate, the bracket can be removed and then mount the plate to the bumper. It can be a good idea to curve the plate to match the shape of the bumper.&lt;br&gt;
This can slightly reduce drag if done properly.&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $0 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data || Example Data  || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Check your local laws and note local custom regarding front license plates. In California for example, every vehicle is required to have a front license plate, but it is rarely enforced by most agencies. More typically, it will be used an excuse to pull over a conspicuous vehicle or person by an officer hoping to find something more.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===


=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Mud flaps</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>14</id>
  <revision>
    <id>15</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:25:03Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:MudFlaps.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; While they..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1935" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:MudFlaps.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
While they make keep the back end of your car nice and shiny and rocks out of people's windshields, mud flaps are a significant contributor to vehicle drag. 

When air passing under the vehicle comes into contact with the rear tires, its pulled into the wheel well by the rotational force of the tire. Its simultaneously pulled under the tire and flows turbulently over it before exiting the rear of the vehicle, creating drag as well as small amounts of lift along the way - both detrimental to fuel effeciency. 
When mud flaps are in place, the air moving under and over the tire has much less room to escape to the rear of the vehicle and is forced around and underneath it, creating even more drag and lift and diminishing fuel effeciency.

Ironically, mud flaps can be useful as mounting points for aerodynamic mods such as boat tails or as fender ?side skirt attachment points. 

== Instructions for mod ==
Unscrew the mudflaps. Please recycle.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Removal of mud flaps may have legal implications on trucks. Check your local laws.

The vehicle is likely to get dirtier behind the rear axle due to dirt picked up and sprayed by the wheels.


== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

=== External links ===</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Radio antenna</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>15</id>
  <revision>
    <id>16</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:26:25Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Antenna.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Radio anten..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3694" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Antenna.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Radio antennas aren't the biggest things in the world, but they do stick out in the way, and you definitely won't find traditional "whip" style antennas on high-efficiency concept &amp; production cars.

You can either remove it or relocate it to a more aerodynamically friendly location.

== Instructions for mod ==
Check your workshop manual for removal of the antenna

Many antennas are easy to remove. However antennas that are in one of the pillars of the car cabin can be very difficult to remove. A typical process for removing a antenna from a drivers side cabin pillar is as follows.&lt;br&gt;
- Remove the drivers side lower console cover (the panel or panels covering up things below the steering wheel)&lt;br&gt;
- Locate the antenna motor, this can be done by actuating the motor several times and locating it by sound&lt;br&gt;
- Disconnect the antenna plug from the radio, there should be an inline plug so the antenna will be free to be removed&lt;br&gt;
- The antenna motor can be behind the fuse boxes and wiring, if so these will need to be unbolted and moved to one side or removed completely (label all connectors so they can be put back again)&lt;br&gt;
- When the antenna has been located it will need to be fully extended&lt;br&gt;
- A screw can often be found at the base of the antenna pole on the motor housing which holds the antenna pole onto the motor housing. This screw should be unscrewed&lt;br&gt;
- Using either a screwdriver or pliers pull the pole away from the motor housing. This may be difficult if the motor housing is in a confined area&lt;br&gt;
- The motor housing should now be free to remove from the car&lt;br&gt;
- Unscrew the bracket which the antenna comes through on the outside of the car.&lt;br&gt;
- Pull the antenna out from the car pillar&lt;br&gt;


Cover up the hole with a metal plate, tape or any other water proof device.


A more aerodynamically friendly location for the antenna is inside the cabin. The antenna will not pick up a great signal but may people have moved their antennas to the cabin and either have no static or can put up with the lower radio quality. 

After removing the antenna from the standard mounting location the antenna can be set up in its extended state then it can usually be mounted to the back of the passenger seat or another easy location in the cabin. The standard cables may extend long enough to reach the radio in which case the antenna can just plug in and work.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $0 || 4 Hours || ||  || 0.165% Theoretical improvement using following information &lt;br&gt; [[Antenna_Efficiency_Calculations|Antenna Efficiency Calculations]]|| The antenna was in the car pillar which makes it very hard to remove which is why it took 4 hours
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Poor radio reception depending on antenna alternative

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/simple-antenna-aero-mod-2617.html Simple antenna aero mod (relocation, Geo Metro)]

=== External links ===
[http://www.crxmpg.com/crx-radio-antenna-removal/ Removing your radio antenna]

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 29, Antennas and Roof racks</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Raised wing type rear spoilers</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>16</id>
  <revision>
    <id>17</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:27:13Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SpoilerDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Sure,..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="3265" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SpoilerDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Sure, the shady used car dealer or that go-fast kid on the corner might've convinced you that giant rear wings are good for downforce, but in reality, most are merely a cosmetic addition that at highway speeds add more drag than anything.

The vehicle pictured here has a spoiler, not a rear wing. Care should be taken in identifying rear wings and differentiating them from spoilers. The two are very different in appearance and intended function. 

A wing is typically a very large contraption that sits on the rear of rice rockets and Formula 1 cars. While it is an aerodynamic mod, it aids in creating downforce and thus can improve handling at high speed where fuel economy is not the first priority. It also creates effeciency killing drag at typical highway speeds.

A spoiler is usually much smaller and probably made of fiberglass - this is what's shown in the picture above and what's on the back of your stock Honda. They exist to aid in flow attachment to the rear of the vehicle and reduce the amount of turbulence in the vehicle's wake. Many are intended to reduce your drag coeffecient and thus improve fuel economy. Some are simply cosmetic, or poorly designed and should probably then be removed.

That said, not all designs are equal, and it isn't always obvious whether a wing or spoiler is a help or a hindrance. See this thread for discussion [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-decide-whether-remove-rear-spoiler-decrease-drag-598.html How to decide whether to remove rear spoiler to decrease drag, improve mileage]

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

Removing a well designed rear wing will reduce vehicle stability and handling at high speeds. Removing a well designed spoiler will increase drag and reduce fuel effeciency at all speeds.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-decide-whether-remove-rear-spoiler-decrease-drag-598.html How to decide whether to remove rear spoiler to decrease drag, improve mileage]

=== External links ===

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 26, Rear spoilers</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Roof rack</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>17</id>
  <revision>
    <id>18</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:29:10Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:RoofRack.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; A lot of v..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="2347" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:RoofRack.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
A lot of vehicles (SUVs, crossovers, wagons and minivans particularly) come loaded down with factory roof racks that are rarely if ever used by their owners. The aerodynamic penalty of roof racks at highway speeds can be significant: they increase both the vehicles frontal area and its drag coeffecient (Cd, or CoD). They also add a significant amount of weight to the top of the vehicle which reduces fuel effeciency and stability, which itself reduces fuel economy. 

Removal is usually easy (aftermarket) to moderately difficult (OEM). Removed racks can be reinstalled when needed. A compromise for OEM racks with difficult to remove side rails/mounts is to remove just the crossbars. This removes a great deal of surface area from the front of the vehicle as well as another obstacle for air to pass over. Furthermore it allows the side rails to provide a small amount of flow attachment to the top of the vehicle.

== Instructions for mod ==
Unscrew roof rack.

Check your workshop manual for details as removal will be application specific.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|External user ||  || $0 || 0.5 to 2 Hours || 48.2 Empty roof racks || No rack - 55.23 &lt;br&gt; Bike on rack - 40.1 ||  No rack - 14.6% &lt;br&gt; Bike on roof rack - -16.8  || [http://metrompg.com/posts/roof-racks.htm Mini-experiment: the wrath of roof racks]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Reduced cargo capacity

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/just-picked-up-roof-rack-23729.html Still need to use your roof rack from time to time? make it quick detachable and store it some where when not in use]

=== External links ===
[http://metrompg.com/posts/roof-racks.htm Mini-experiment: the wrath of roof racks]

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 29, Roof racks</text>
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  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Shave badges</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>18</id>
  <revision>
    <id>19</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:31:02Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ShaveBadges.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Yes, th..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2447" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ShaveBadges.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Yes, this falls into the "splitting hairs" category.

Shaving your door handles and smoothing out all the lines on your car isn't likely to boost your fuel economy a whole ton. However, if you're really motivated to create a the lowest drag form possible, this is what you'll need to do.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Deleting the door handles comes with an inheirent set of problems, namely that the vehicle now requires a new, ingenious way for the driver and any passengers to get into it. There's no shortage of options, but few are so simple, intuitive and effective as a handle. 

Many new vehicles are being outfitted with sensors that detect the drivers proximity and then unlock the doors or perform similar tasks. The technology is anything but new. RFID tags and readers are and have been a common security measure in passenger vehicles. The same technology could be outfitted to the vehicle so as to actuate the door by a hydraulic system when the tag was in close enough proximity.

There is an article somewhere in the depths of the internet about using a piezo microphone and an audrino controller to read a secret knock on the window of a car, authenticate it against the prerecorded knock, and then actuate the door locks. The same could be done for your enthusiastic hydraulic doors.


== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-vibe-grille-fog-deletes-2257.html#post26595 Pontiac Vibe door handle removal]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>eda6c57e61b3b45e3e879e63150e3926afa6327d</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Side mirrors</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>19</id>
  <revision>
    <id>20</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:33:36Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SideMirror.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Side mir..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="4720" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SideMirror.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Side mirrors are absent from most high efficiency concept vehicles for a reason: they increase both frontal area and the drag coeffecient (Cd or CoD). They are present on most production cars for a very good reason as well.

Many jurisdictions do not require a passenger side mirror, so that is most often the one deleted. This may be conditional however, for instance on whether or not you have a rear view mirror (California). 

Some will replace the outside mirrors with smaller mirrors, or more aerodynamically shaped mirrors from similar models or aftermarket manufacturers. Others replace the outside mirror with convex, in-car mirrors or wider rear view mirrors. Cameras and LCD screens are a favourite of the concept car circuit, though they can be a somewhat costly option and they may not be a legal alternative in your locale.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
[[Image:Mirror_nuts.jpg|400px|Frame|]]
Find the bolts holding on the mirror (most cars this is from the cabin). 

Remove the bolts (or nuts) And any wires going to the mirror. Then pull off the mirror. Now you need to make a cover to go over the holes. This can be done by putting bondo over the area, making a metal cover, taping over the holes, making a colorplast over, or other ways as you see fit. The idea is to make a smooth transition from the A piller to the window. 

For a more detailed "how to" see each users links in the table below.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, Matrix, 2006 || $4 &lt;br&gt;(inside mirror &amp; paint) || 4 Hours || 43.31 || 44.99 || 3.72% (ABA) || [[HOW TO Page]]
|-
|MetroMPG || Ponteac Firefly ||  ||  || 55.145 || 56.51 || 2.47% || Removed passerger mirror hole covered, driver side mirror folded back &lt;br&gt; [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/side-mirror-drag-effect-fuel-economy-quantified-95-2.html#post946 Side mirror drag &amp; effect on fuel economy - quantified]
|-
|Peakster || Geo Metro 1997 ||  ||  || 36.15 || 36.96 || 2.21% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/video-ditching-side-mirrors-increases-fuel-economy-188.html Video: Ditching the Side Mirrors Increases Fuel Economy]
|-
|Soulster || Kia, Soul, 2010 || $0 || 30 min ||  ||  || With the mirror removed but holes open ABA testing showed a 1.1% increase. || [[Soulster's side mirror removal saga]]
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $0 || 2 Hours ||  ||  ||  || 
|-
|Big Dave || 00 F-350 XLT  ||  || || 26.32 MPG || 26.99 MPG || 2.5% ( or .66 MPG) ABA testing. &lt;br&gt; Mod is swapping OEM telescoping trailer-towing mirrors for smaller OEM paddle mirrors|| [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/tested-pickup-truck-mirrors-10196.html Tested: Pickup Truck Mirrors]]
|-
|cons || 04 Ranger   || $0 || 1 min|| 30 MPG || 31 MPG || 3.23% (1 MPG) tank to tank testing. &lt;br&gt; Mod is folding in mirror|| 
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Difficulty seeing, creation of blindspots.

- Possible legal implications, In Australia only a single rear vision mirror is required. Most places in the US require two, with one on the drivers side door.

- Extra noise if covers over holes are not perfect.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/interior-side-veiw-mirrors-22439.html Interior side view mirrors]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/side-miror-removal-matrix-14253.html Weather Spotter's How to and data thread]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/prius-aero-mods-undertrays-grille-block-mirror-delete-1073.html Prius aero mods (under trays, grille block, mirror delete...)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/video-ditching-side-mirrors-increases-fuel-economy-188.html Peakster's video test of mirror removal]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/soul-help-side-mirror-14481.html Soul Help (Side mirror)]

[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Mirror_Laws_by_State_%28U.S.%29 Mirror Laws by state (U.S.A)]

[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Mirror_Laws_by_Province_(Canada) Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)]

=== External links ===
[http://metrompg.com/posts/mirrors.htm Reflections on side mirrors: testing drag vs. MPG]

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 28, External mirrors</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Windshield wiper</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>20</id>
  <revision>
    <id>21</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-07T19:42:46Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:WindshieldWiper.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; The..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2046" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:WindshieldWiper.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The effect of front and rear wipers on airflow varies from vehicle to vehicle. Some people use RainX and remove their wipers completely, which is a bit risky and not advisable. Others, however, simply remove the blades and store them in their car. When rain threatens, you can easily throw the blades back on. If you're worried about airflow over the wipers, this is probably your best option.

Another hair-splitting option is to replace your blades with a lower profile style. 

Some people remove only the passenger side wiper.

Some people keep their wipers installed but put a cover over the wipers resting position to ensure air flow does not hit the wipers when they are turned off.

A related modification is to use a switch to stop the wipers when they are in the verticle position as it will give lower aerodynamic resistance.
== Instructions for mod ==
Remove by unscrewing windshield wiper. Recommend keeping wiper in the boot of the car incase of poor weather

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $0 || 0.5 Hour ||  ||  || || 
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Poor visibility in wet weather.

Drivers with only driver side wiper can have poor visibility in wet weather when turning toward the passenger side.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/windshield-wiper-cowl-cover-blocker-thingy-7126.html Windshield Wiper Cowl / Cover / Blocker Thingy?]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264310 Wiper Deflector on a Toyota Echo]

=== External links ===</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Aerodynamic front bumper</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>21</id>
  <revision>
    <id>22</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:32:29Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:FrontBumper.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Front bumper swap]] Image:Fro..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1747" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:FrontBumper.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Front bumper swap]]
[[Image:Frontbumper.png|right|thumb|512px|Frame|Aerocivic Reshaped Front Bumper]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Some different trim levels of the same vehicle model have more aerodynamic bumper styles than others. If your car has the possibility of swapping between multiple different bumper styles, consider the one that is more aerodynamic.

Another option is fabrication/modification of your existing bumper.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/schultzys-geo-other-assorted-stuff-487.html#post4206 Schultzy's Geo (&amp; other assorted stuff)]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Belly pan</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>22</id>
  <revision>
    <id>23</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:33:24Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:BellyPan.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Under belly pan]] '''Introduction'..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="6694" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:BellyPan.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Under belly pan]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The underside of your car is one of its most aerodynamically dirty areas. Most vehicles will benefit by fitting a smooth undertray - something manufacturers are doing more and more where they want to squeeze the most efficiency from any particular model (eg. Jetta diesel vs. gas; Camry hybrid vs. non-hybrid).

Sheet aluminum or corrugated plastic will do the trick. Just make sure that you don't put any flammable materials near hot exhaust pipes.

== Instructions for mod ==
[[Image:BellyPanFrame.jpg|right|200px]]
Underside covers can be made out of many different materials, Some suggestions are coroplast (corogated plastic) or metal sheet. When choosing a material make sure it is strong enough to survive wet weather and being hit by small objects picked up by the tires. &lt;br&gt;
The material used around the exhaust should be metal, coroplast will melt and deform. Metal can be used above the coroplast to ensure it does not touch the hot exhaust. The picture on the right shows an example of a frame that is used to mount coroplast to, it keeps the coroplast off the hot exhaust and keeps it generally flat. If a full frame is not used it is recommended to use either a metal frame or metal sheet just above the hot exhaust.

To install the sheet material drill and tap or pop rivet into suitable fixing points on the car. When screwing into the underside of the car check that sharp screw ends dont poke in through the floor of the cabin.

Note: Pop rivets work well when fixing to thin sheet metal areas like the floor of the cabin.


[[Image:BellyPanCoveredCut.jpg|right|200px]]
Cut out a suitable shape for the sheet material ensuring the wheels have suitable turn radius and that if a material other than metal is used that it is clear of the hot exhaust. 

Screw the cut sheets onto the underside of the car, where sheets overlap arrange the sheets so that sheets at the front of the car are ontop of sheets behind. This makes sure air flows from one sheet to the other smoothly.

Access holes can be cut in the underbelly material for access to oil and radiator spigots. This will be very useful when changing oil.

Note: If you have many modifications planned for the car the underbelly under the engine bay may be the last mod you want to do as it reduces access and therefore makes many other modifications harder.


== User experiences ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|MetroMPG || Pontiac, Firefly, 1998 ||  ||  || 56.55 || 57.78 || 2.2% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/metro-undertray-belly-pan-79-2.html#post873 A-B-A Tests Metro undertray belly pan]
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || Coroplast $20 || 5 Hours ||  ||  ||  || 
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, Matrix, 2006 || Coroplast $15 || 1 Hour ||  ||  || Front half of car only. I did this mod before I had a scangauge but I gained some costing distance. I will call the gain 1-2% MPG (no hard data on this one yet).  || 
|-
|jedi_sol|| 93 Del Sol Si ||  || ||41.76mpg   || 42.84mpg ||2.58%  || 
|-
|puddleglum || 07 Rondo EX ||  ||  || ||  || Based on highway trip mileage numbers,I'm consistently seeing at least 3-5% (1-1.5mpg) improvement at 65-70mph.  ||
|-
|cons|| 04 Ranger || $10 || 1 Hours || 30 || 30.5 || 4.76% (1.5 MPG) tank to tank data, easier for mpg improvement on the truck|| 
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || few Screws || 3 Hours||  ||  || Not tested. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Frontal Belly Pan]
|-
|Daschicken || Honda, Accord V6, 2006 || Coroplast $40 || 20 Hours || 40 || 42 || 5% Trip to trip data || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/rarity-accord-v6-6mt-hypermile-build-thread-32847.html Rarity- Accord V6 6MT Hypermile/Build Thread]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Underbelly material can cause extra drag if damaged. &lt;br&gt;
- Underbelly can be easily damaged during normal driving.&lt;br&gt;
- Underbelly can rattle in wind if not properly mounted or supported. &lt;br&gt;
- Underbelly can collect water. &lt;br&gt;
- Warmer engine bay, reduced air flow through the radiator.&lt;br&gt;
- Inconvenient access to oil pan and filter for oil changes. &lt;br&gt;

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerocivic-how-drop-your-cd-0-31-0-a-290.html#post2111 Aerocivic - how to drop your Cd from 0.34 to 0.17]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/autospeed-article-adding-chin-undertray-1st-gen-prius-587.html Autospeed article: adding a chin undertray to a 1st gen Prius]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/daoxs-2003-matrix-build-thread-1890.html#post24109 Daox's 2003 Matrix Build Thread]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/belly-pan-thrash-2008-a-2137.html Belly pan thrash 2008 (Saturn SL)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/metro-undertray-belly-pan-79.html Metro undertray / belly pan]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/under-belly-pan-02-q45-11402.html under belly pan for 02 Q45]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/belly-pan-how-15026.html Belly pan how-to]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerodynamic-belly-pan-toyota-echo-7380.html Aerodynamic Belly Pan on Toyota Echo ]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/new-belly-pan-13627.html New belly pan  on a07 Rondo EX ]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-del-sol-kammback-dead-new-ideas-9876-3.html#post218448 Underbelly Tray]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/belly-pan-build-pics-97-civic-16422.html 97 civic]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-3.html#post275101 Front Belly Pan on a Toyota Echo]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-4.html#post278351 Rear Belly Pan on a Toyota Echo]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/rarity-accord-v6-6mt-hypermile-build-thread-32847.html Rarity- Accord V6 6MT Hypermile/Build Thread]

=== External links ===
[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/113_0703_car_aerodynamics/viewall.html hotrod.com wind tunnel testing]

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 23 underbody roughness</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Boat-tailing behind tires</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>23</id>
  <revision>
    <id>24</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:34:28Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:BoatTailing.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Just..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1524" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:BoatTailing.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Just as entire vehicle rear ends can benefit from boat tailing, so can individual wheels/tires.

The 2nd generation Toyota Prius has tapered bodywork (in the bumper cover) behind its rear tires that serve this purpose.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for


''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerocivic-how-drop-your-cd-0-31-0-a-290-3.html#post4632 Aerocivic - how to drop your Cd from 0.34 to 0.17]

=== External links ===</text>
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  </revision>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Mirror Laws by State (U.S.)</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>24</id>
  <revision>
    <id>25</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:37:22Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; &lt;big&gt;'''Side and Rear View Mirror Laws by State (U.S.)'''&lt;/big&gt;  This page is a collection of laws and regulations regarding side and rea..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="47727" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
&lt;big&gt;'''Side and Rear View Mirror Laws by State (U.S.)'''&lt;/big&gt;

This page is a collection of laws and regulations regarding side and rear view mirrors in various states of the United States. Use this as a reference as you consider the legal implications of a side view mirror delete.

'''Canada Mirrors Laws by Province :''' [[Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)]]

==Alabama==

[http://www.legislature.state.al.us/CodeofAlabama/1975/32-5-214.htm Alabama Vehicle Code, Section 32-5-214]

'''Mirrors.'''

Every motor vehicle, operated singly or when towing any other vehicle, shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such motor vehicle.
(Acts 1927, No. 347, p. 348; Code 1940, T. 36, §37; Acts 1959, No. 292, p. 860.)

==Alaska==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://state.ak.us/dmv/ Division of Motor Vehicles]

==Arizona==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.azleg.state.az.us/FormatDocument.asp?inDoc=/ars/28/00956.htm&amp;amp;Title=28&amp;amp;DocType=ARS Arizona State Legislature]


'''Title 28: Chapter 2: Article 16''' Equipment

28-956. Mirrors &lt;br&gt;
A motor vehicle that is constructed or loaded in a manner that obstructs the driver's view to the rear of the vehicle from the driver's position shall be equipped with two mirrors located in a manner to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of the vehicle.

==Arkansas==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.armvc.com/laws/index.html Arkansas Motor Vehicle Commission]

==California==
[http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc26709.htm California Vehicle Code, Section 26709.]

(a) Every motor vehicle registered in a foreign jurisdiction and every motorcycle subject to registration in this state shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such vehicle.

Every motor vehicle subject to registration in this state, except a motorcycle, shall be equipped with not less than two such mirrors, including one affixed to the left-hand side.

(b) The following described types of motor vehicles, of a type subject to registration, shall be equipped with mirrors on both the left-and right-hand sides of the vehicle so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway through each mirror for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such vehicle:

(1) A motor vehicle so constructed or loaded as to obstruct the driver's view to the rear.

(2) A motor vehicle towing a vehicle and the towed vehicle or load thereon obstructs the driver's view to the rear.

(3) A bus or trolley coach.

(c) The provisions of subdivision (b) shall not apply to a passenger vehicle when the load obstructing the driver's view consists of passengers.
Amended Ch. 74, Stats. 1970. Effective November 23, 1970.


==Colorado==

'''4-19-13''' Colorado Dept of Transportation:  See ''Model Traffic Code 2010'' , 
http://www.coloradodot.info/library/traffic/traffic-manuals-guidelines/fed-state-co-traffic-manuals


'''226. Mirrors - exterior placements.'''
(1) Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror or mirrors so located and so constructed as to reflect to the driver a free and unobstructed view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle.

(2) Whenever any motor vehicle is not equipped with a rear window and rear side windows or has a rear window and rear side windows composed of, covered by, or treated with any material or component that, when viewed from the position of the driver, obstructs the rear view of the driver or makes such window or windows nontransparent, or whenever any motor vehicle is towing another vehicle or trailer or carrying any load or cargo or object that obstructs the rear view of the driver, such vehicle shall be equipped with an exterior mirror on each side so located with respect to the position of the driver as to comply with the visual requirement of subsection (1) of this section.

(3) Any person who violates any provision of this section commits a class B traffic infraction.

== Connecticut ==

'''Sec. 14-99. Mirror.''' Motor vehicles with commercial registration to allow others to pass. Each motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror attached to and so located and adjusted on such vehicle as to give the operator thereof a clear reflected view of the highway directly to the rear of or on a line parallel to the left side of the body of such motor vehicle. Any person operating a motor vehicle with a commercial registration so constructed or which may be so loaded that the operator is prevented from having a free and unobstructed view of the highway immediately to the rear and at the left side of the same shall, by means of such mirror, make frequent observations of the approach of vehicles from the rear. When operating at below the posted speed limits and when so approached or overtaken, the operator of such motor vehicle shall drive to the extreme right of the traveled way as promptly as safety will permit, giving the vehicle approaching from the rear opportunity to pass. Violation of any provision of this section shall be an infraction.

(1949 Rev., S. 2446; February, 1965, P.A. 448, S. 11; P.A. 75-577, S. 56, 126; P.A. 90-263, S. 64, 74.)

History: 1965 act added the word "left" in the first and second sentences, changed the duty of constant observation to one of frequent observations, removed the words "in safety" from the end of the last sentence and deleted a penalty provision; P.A. 75-577 provided that violation of section is an infraction; P.A. 90-263 substituted "motor vehicle with a commercial registration" for "commercial motor vehicle".

Allegation that driver did not keep a constant observation of approach of vehicles from rear is sufficient to raise issue of compliance with this statute. 119 C. 595, 596. Requires driver to keep such a regularly recurring observation of mirror as will make him aware of vehicles approaching in rear. 122 C. 216. Cited. 129 C. 13. Cited. 134 C. 644.

==Delaware==
'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://delcode.delaware.gov/title21/c043/sc01/index.shtml CHAPTER 43. EQUIPMENT AND CONSTRUCTION OF VEHICLES Subchapter 1. Equipment Requirements]


'''Title 21: Chapter 43: Subchapter 1''' Equipment Requirements

§ 4308. Rearview mirror.&lt;br&gt;
All motor vehicles and motorcycles shall be equipped with a mirror so placed that the driver thereof may readily ascertain the presence of any vehicle traveling in the same direction and overtaking the driver's vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
36 Del. Laws, c. 10, § 125; Code 1935, § 5663; 21 Del. C. 1953, § 4308; 70 Del. Laws, c. 186, § 1.

§ 4315. Penalties for §§ 4301-4316.&lt;br&gt;
(a) ...&lt;br&gt;
(b) Whoever violates §§ 4306-4311 of this title, except for § 4306(c) of this title, shall for the first offense be fined not less than $10 nor more than $28.75. For each subsequent like offense, the person shall be fined not less than $28.75 nor more than $100. ...&lt;br&gt;
(c) ...&lt;br&gt;
(d) ...&lt;br&gt;
(e) In case of any violation of §§ 4301-4316 of this title by any common carrier or person operating under a permit or certificate issued by any public authority, in addition to the penalties prescribed in this section, such permit or certificate shall be revoked or, in the discretion of the issuing authority suspended until such sections are satisfactorily complied with.&lt;br&gt;
36 Del. Laws, c. 10, §§ 141, 142; 37 Del. Laws, c. 10, § 34; 38 Del. Laws, c. 30; 40 Del. Laws, c. 35, § 6; 40 Del. Laws, c. 37, § 1; Code 1935, §§ 5679, 5680, 5719; 45 Del. Laws, c. 292, § 2; 46 Del. Laws, c. 61; 21 Del. C. 1953, § 4315; 65 Del. Laws, c. 503, § 22; 68 Del. Laws, c. 9, §§ 41-43; 70 Del. Laws, c. 186, § 1; 74 Del. Laws, c. 399, §§ 2, 3; 75 Del. Laws, c. 164, § 2.

== Florida == 

Title XXIII
MOTOR VEHICLES Chapter 316
STATE UNIFORM TRAFFIC CONTROL View Entire Chapter

316.294 Mirrors.--Every vehicle, operated singly or when towing any other vehicle, shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of the motor vehicle. A violation of this section is a noncriminal traffic infraction, punishable as a nonmoving violation as provided in chapter 318.

History.--s. 1, ch. 71-135; s. 1, ch. 76-31; s. 207, ch. 99-248.

Note.--Former s. 316.273


316.2954 Windows behind the driver; restrictions on sunscreening material.--
(Edited for relavent content)
A person shall not operate any motor vehicle upon any public highway, road, or street, on which vehicle the rear window is composed of, covered by, or treated with any material which has the effect of making the window nontransparent, unless the vehicle is equipped with side mirrors on both sides that meet the requirements of s. 316.294.

==Georgia==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://motor.etax.dor.ga.gov/index.aspx Motor Vehicle Division]

== Hawaii ==

[http://www.honolulu.gov/refs/roh/15a10_20.htm]

'''Sec. 15-19.29    Rear vision mirror required.'''

Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror or mirrors so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such vehicle. (Sec. 15-19.29, R.O. 1978 (1983 Ed.)) 

== Idaho ==

[http://idaho.google.cdc.nicusa.com/search?q=cache:z7z5hOcRjHYJ:itd.idaho.gov/dmv/driverservices/documents/DLChapter9.pdf+rear+view+mirror&amp;access=p&amp;output=xml_no_dtd&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;client=idaho&amp;num=20&amp;site=idaho&amp;oe=UTF-8&amp;proxystylesheet=idaho]

'''Mirrors:''' All motor vehicles must have a rear view mirror that
provides a view of the highway for at least 200 feet to the rear. If a
load or trailer obscures the driver’s normal view through the rear window, the vehicle must have two additional rear view mirrors,
one on each side of the vehicle.

==Illinois==
'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://law.onecle.com/illinois/625ilcs5/12-502.html Illinois Vehicle Code - 625 ILCS 5, Section 12-502]

Mirrors. Every motor vehicle, operated singly or when towing another vehicle, shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such motor vehicle.

== Indiana ==

IC 9-19-12-1
Safety requirements
Sec. 1. A motor vehicle that is constructed or loaded so as to obstruct the driver's view to the rear from the driver's position must be equipped with a mirror located so as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred (200) feet to the rear of the vehicle.
As added by P.L.2-1991, SEC.7.

==Iowa==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.iowadot.gov/MVD/index.htm Iowa Motor Vehicle Division]

==Kansas==

[http://www.kslegislature.org/legsrv-statutes/getStatuteFile.do?number=/8-1740.html  Kansas Statute Section 8-1740]

Chapter 8.--AUTOMOBILES AND OTHER VEHICLES

Article 17.--UNIFORM ACT REGULATING TRAFFIC; EQUIPMENT OF VEHICLES
 
8-1740.   Mirrors.

(a) After January 1, 1975, every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror mounted on the left side of the vehicle and so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.

(b) Every motor vehicle, except a motorcycle, shall be equipped with an additional mirror mounted either inside the vehicle approximately in the center or outside the vehicle on the right side and so located as to reflect to the driver a view     of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.

(c) All mirrors required by regulations of the United States department of transportation shall be maintained in good condition.

History:   L. 1974, ch. 33, § 8-1740; July 1.

==Kentucky==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://162.114.4.13/krs/189-00/CHAPTER.HTM Kentucky Revised Statutes]

'''Title XVI: Chapter 189''' Traffic Regulations - Vehicle Equipment and Storage

189.130 Mirrors.&lt;br&gt;
(1) Except as provided in subsection (4) of this section, every motor vehicle shall be equipped with the following mirrors so located and adjusted as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle: (a) One (1) mounted on the left side of the vehicle; and (b) one (1) mirror mounted either inside the vehicle approximately in the center or on the right side of the vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
(2) No person shall, by himself or through his agent or servant, operate a motor vehicle upon the highways without the equipment required in subsection (1). Each day of operation without the equipment shall constitute a separate offense.&lt;br&gt;
(3) No personal shall sell, barter, or otherwise dispose of any motor vehicle described in subsection (1) unless it is equipped with a mirror as provided in that subsection.&lt;br&gt;
(4) A motorcycle shall be required only to have the mirror identified in paragraph (a) of subsection (1) of this section.&lt;br&gt;
Effective: 12 July 2006&lt;br&gt;
History: Amended 2006 Ky. Acts ch. 173, sec. 9, effective 12 July 2006. - Recodified 1942 Ky. Acts ch. 208, sec. 1, effective 1 October 1942, from Ky. Stat. secs. 2739g-69a, 2739i-1 to 2739i-3.

Penalties 189.990 and 9

==Louisiana==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.lmvc.state.la.us/ Louisiana Motor Vehicle Commission]

== Maine ==

[http://www.mainelegislature.org/legis/Statutes/29-A/title29-Asec1913.html Title 29-A Chapter 17]

'''§1913. Mirrors'''
'''1. Mirrors required.'''  A person may not operate on a public way a vehicle so constructed, equipped, loaded or used that the operator is prevented from having a constantly free and unobstructed view of the way immediately to the rear, unless there is attached a mirror or reflector placed and adjusted to afford the operator a clear, reflected view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle for a distance of at least 200 feet.
[ 1993, c. 683, Pt. A, §2 (NEW); 1993, c. 683, Pt. B, §5 (AFF) .]

'''2. Temporary mirrors.'''  When a vehicle is operated without a trailer or semitrailer, temporary outside rearview mirrors must be removed or otherwise adjusted so as not to extend beyond the width of the automobile.
[ 1993, c. 683, Pt. A, §2 (NEW); 1993, c. 683, Pt. B, §5 (AFF) .]

'''3. Motorcycles.'''  A motorcycle must be equipped with a rear view mirror mounted and adjusted to afford the operator a clear, reflected view of the highway in the rear for a distance of at least 200 feet.
[ 2005, c. 577, §26 (AMD) .]

SECTION HISTORY
1993, c. 683, §A2 (NEW). 1993, c. 683, §B5 (AFF). 2005, c. 577, §26 (AMD).

== Maryland ==

[http://mlis.state.md.us/asp/web_statutes.asp?gtr&amp;22-403]

'''§22–403.'''

(a)   Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with at least one mirror located to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of the vehicle.

(b)   Every motor vehicle registered in this State shall be equipped with an outside mirror on the driver’s side located to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of the vehicle and along the driver’s side of the vehicle. This subsection does not apply to motorcycles, which are governed by subsection (c) of this section.

(c)   Every motorcycle shall be equipped with two rearview mirrors, one each attached to the right and left handlebars, which shall meet applicable federal motor vehicle safety standards.

(d)   Where the view through the inside rearview mirror is obstructed, two outside rearview mirrors are required.

== Massachusetts ==

Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with at least one mirror so placed and adjusted as to afford the operator a clear, reflected view of the highway to the rear and left side of the vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.mass.gov/legis/laws/mgl/90-7.htm Massachusetts General Laws - Chapter 90, Section 7]&lt;br&gt;

== Michigan ==

257.708 Mirrors.

Sec. 708.

A person shall not drive a motor vehicle on a highway which is so constructed or loaded as to prevent the driver from obtaining a view of the highway to the rear by looking backward from the driver's position, unless the vehicle is equipped with a mirror located so as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle. In addition all motor vehicles shall be equipped with an outside rearview mirror on the driver's side which shall be positioned to give the driver a rearviewing angle from the driver's side of the vehicle, except a motor vehicle licensed as an historic vehicle if the vehicle was not originally equipped with an outside rearview mirror. 

Rearview mirrors may be positioned on the helmet or visor worn by the operator of a motorcycle if the helmet is securely attached to the head of the operator. Every commercial vehicle of 1/2 ton capacity or more, operating upon the public highways of this state, shall be equipped with 2 mirrors, 1 on each side, adjusted so that the operator shall have a clear view of the highway behind the commercial vehicle. The outside mirrors shall not be considered to be a part of the vehicle for the purpose of determining the maximum width under section 717.

[http://www.legislature.mi.gov/(S(044gow45juai2q45biojua55))/mileg.aspx?page=getobject&amp;objectname=mcl-257-708&amp;query=on&amp;highlight=mirror Michigan Legislature - Section 257.708]

==  Minnesota ==

[https://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/statutes/?year=2008&amp;id=169.70 169.70 '''REAR VIEW MIRROR'''.]  
&lt;br&gt;Every motor vehicle which is so constructed, loaded or connected with another vehicle as to obstruct the driver's view to the rear thereof from the driver's position shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such vehicle.

History: [https://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/data/revisor/statute/1940/1940-013.pdf#search=%222720-259.%22 (2720-259)] [https://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/laws?doctype=Chapter&amp;year=1937&amp;type=0&amp;id=464 1937 c 464 s 109]

==Mississippi==
'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.mscode.com/free/statutes/63/007/0057.htm 63-7-57. Mirrors.]


'''Title 63: Chapter 7''' Equipment and Identification

SEC. 63-7-57. Mirrors.&lt;br&gt;
Every motor vehicle which is so constructed or loaded as to obstruct the driver's view to the rear thereof from the driver's position shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
SOURCES: Codes, 1942, Sec. 8252; Laws, 1938, ch. 200.

== Missouri ==

Mirrors: All motor vehicles which are so constructed or loaded that the operator cannot see the road behind such vehicle by looking back or around the side of such vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror so adjusted as to reveal the road behind and be visible from the operator's seat.

So I interpret this as, you don't need any mirrors at all as long as you can look out the rear window or stick your head out the side window and look backwards.
 
From: [http://law.justia.com/missouri/codes/t19/3070000170.html § 307.170. &amp;mdash; Other equipment of motor vehicles--violations, penalty. - Missouri § 307.170. &amp;mdash; Other equipment of motor vehicles--violations, penalty.]

All motor vehicles which were equipped by the manufacturer with an inside mirror and all
1968 and later model vehicles manufactured with both an inside and a driver's side outside
mirror, shall be equipped in like manner. Do not inspect passenger side outside mirrors.

From: State Inspection Requirements page 39
http://www.mshp.dps.missouri.gov/MSHPWeb/PatrolDivisions/MVI/documents/MVIRegulationsManual.pdf

== Montana ==

[http://data.opi.mt.gov/bills/mca/61/9/61-9-404.htm 61-9-404. Mirrors]
 
61-9-404. Mirrors. A motor vehicle must be equipped with a mirror that reflects to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of the motor vehicle.

==Nebraska==

'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.dmv.ne.gov/examining/audio.html Nebraska Department of Motor Vehicles]

==Nevada==
'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.dmvnv.com/codebook.htm Nevada Motor Vehicle Laws]


'''NRS: Chapter 484''' Traffic Laws

NRS 484.541  General requirements for equipment.&lt;br&gt;
1.  A person shall not drive, move, stop or park any vehicle, or cause or knowingly permit any vehicle to be driven, moved, stopped or parked, except for purposes of repair, on any highway if such vehicle: (a) Is in such unsafe condition as to endanger any person or property or (b) is not equipped with lamps, reflectors, brakes, horn and other warning and signaling devices, windows, windshield, mirrors, safety glass, mufflers, fenders and tires, and other parts and equipment in the position, condition and adjustment required by the laws of this State as to such parts and equipment of a vehicle on the highways of the State at the time, under the conditions and for the purposes provided in such laws. &lt;br&gt;
2.  With respect to any vehicle being driven, moved, stopped or parked on any highway, it is unlawful for any person to do any act forbidden, or fail to perform any act required, by the laws of this State relating to the lamps, brakes, fenders and other parts and equipment, size, weight and load as to such vehicle on the highways.&lt;br&gt;
3.  ...&lt;br&gt;
(Added to NRS by 1969, 1203, 1507)

NRS 484.613  Mirrors on trucks.  Every truck using the highways of this State, having a body of such width or height that obscures a view of the road to the rear, shall be equipped with a mirror carried in such position that the driver of the truck shall be able to see reflected in the mirror traffic approaching from the rear.&lt;br&gt;
[20:166:1925; NCL § 4370]—(Substituted in revision for NRS 484.480)

NRS 484.617  Mirrors on all motor vehicles.  On and after January 1, 1970, every motor vehicle, operated singly or when towing any other vehicle, shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such motor vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
(Added to NRS by 1969, 1208)


'''NRS: Chapter 486''' Motorcycles and Similar Vehicles

NRS 486.311  Mirrors.  Every motorcycle or moped shall be equipped with two mirrors, each containing a reflection surface not less than 3 inches in diameter, with one mirror mounted on each handlebar, in positions enabling the driver to view clearly the highway for a distance of 200 feet to the rear.&lt;br&gt;
(Added to NRS by 1971, 1470; A 1975, 1084)

== New Hampshire ==

[http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rsa/html/XXI/266/266-55.htm Chapter 266:55 Equipment of Vehicles]

'''266:55 Mirrors.''' – No person shall drive upon any way any closed motor vehicle, or motor vehicle so constructed, equipped, or loaded that the driver is prevented from having a constantly free and unobstructed view of the way immediately in the rear, unless there is attached to the vehicle a mirror or reflector so placed and adjusted as to afford the driver a clear, reflected view of the way in the rear of the vehicle.

'''Source.''' 1921, 119:6. PL 103:8. RL 119:12. RSA 263:22. 1981, 146:1, eff. Jan. 1, 1982.


'''Added''': 5-29-09 [http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/Rules/saf-c3200.html Saf-C 3200]


'''Saf-C 3217.04''' Outside Rear View Mirrors.&lt;br&gt;
(a)  A vehicle shall be rejected if the left hand outside rear view mirror:&lt;br&gt;
- (1)  Is not in the correct location on the vehicle;&lt;br&gt;
- (2)  Is not firmly mounted;&lt;br&gt;
- (3)  Has cracks;&lt;br&gt;
- (4)  Extends to the left of the vehicle body more than necessary; or&lt;br&gt;
- (5)  Does not afford a clear view of the road to the rear of the vehicle.

'''Saf-C 3217.05'''  Inside Rear View Mirror.&lt;br&gt;
(a)  A vehicle shall be rejected if the inside rearview mirror:&lt;br&gt;
- (1)  Is loose, so that the driver’s rear vision is impaired;&lt;br&gt;
- (2)  Is located in a position that does not give the driver a clear view of the road at least 200 feet to the rear of the vehicle;&lt;br&gt;
- (3)  Is cracked or broken;&lt;br&gt;
- (4)  Has sharp edges; or&lt;br&gt;
- (5)  Does not stay in position when adjusted.&lt;br&gt;
(b)  If the rear of the vehicle is blocked, the vehicle shall be exempt from having a rearview mirror, as long as the vehicle is equipped with outside mirrors on the left and the right.

== New Jersey  ==

'''Added''': 4-28-09
'''Regulation''': 39:3-71.Mirrors

Every motor vehicle shall have rear view mirrors so located and angled as to give the driver adequate rear view vision. Every passenger automobile manufactured after January 1, 1965 and registered in this State, shall be equipped with an interior mirror and an exterior mirror on the driver's side. On and after January 1, 1965, every commercial motor vehicle registered in this State, other than a trailer or semitrailer, shall be equipped with an interior mirror and an exterior mirror on the driver's side, except that every such vehicle so constructed or loaded as to obstruct or obscure a rear view from an interior mirror shall, in lieu of an interior mirror, be equipped with an exterior mirror on the side of the vehicle opposite the driver's side. The director may by regulation establish other mirror requirements for special or unusual types of vehicles. Any person operating a motor vehicle without the equipment prescribed by this section shall, on conviction, be fined as provided in Revised Statutes 39:3-79.

Amended by L.1964, c. 119, s. 1.

==New Mexico==
'''Added''': 5-9-09 [http://www.conwaygreene.com/nmsu/lpext.dll?f=templates&amp;fn=main-hit-h.htm&amp;2.0 Conway Greene Co. - New Mexico Statues and Rules]


'''Chapter 66: Article 3: Part 9''' Equipment

66-3-845. Mirrors.&lt;br&gt;
Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle.    

==New York==
'''Vehicle and Traffic Laws Title 3, Article 9, § 375. Equipment.'''

'''10. a.''' Every motor vehicle, when driven  or  operated  upon  a  public
highway,  shall  be equipped with a mirror or other reflecting device so
adjusted that the operator of such vehicle shall have a clear  and  full
view of the road and condition of traffic behind such vehicle.

...

'''c.'''  Every  passenger  motor  vehicle  registered  in  this  state (snip)
shall be equipped with adjustable interior  mirrors  meeting
specifications  established by the commissioner which specifications may
provide minimum and maximum reflectance values.

'''10-a.'''  It  shall  be  unlawful (snip) to operate on any public highway in  this  state (snip)
unless  such  vehicle  is  equipped with an adjustable side view
mirror which shall be affixed to the left outside of  such  vehicle  and
which  shall be adjustable so that the operator of such vehicle may have
a clear view of the road and condition of traffic on the left  side  and
to the rear of such vehicle.

Snipped out information about older vehicles. [http://public.leginfo.state.ny.us Full searchable NY laws]


NYS DMV Motor Vehicle Inspection Regulations (CR-78)
CR-79.21.g

Inspect mirrors for proper location and mounting.  Reject if:

1. (a) 1967 and older model not equipped 
with at least one mirror, either an interior or 
left outside mirror.
(b) 1968 and newer model not equipped 
with a left outside mirror. 
(c) 1970 and newer model not equipped 
with an adjustable interior mirror in addition 
to the left outside mirror, unless the vehicle is 
equipped with dual outside mirrors. 
(Amended 5/4/05) 
(d) Truck-tractor does not have both a left 
and right outside rear view mirror. 
(e)  There is no left and right outside 
mirror on a vehicle with a permanent 
obstruction of the rear window. 
(f) Any mirror cannot be properly adjusted 
to provide a clear and full view to the rear. 
(g) Any mirror is not securely mounted. 
(Added 12/22/99)

== North Carolina ==

[http://www.ncga.state.nc.us/EnactedLegislation/Statutes/HTML/ByChapter/Chapter_20.html]

'''§ 20‑126.  Mirrors.'''

(a)       No person shall drive a motor vehicle on the streets or highways of this State unless equipped with an inside rearview mirror of a type approved by the Commissioner, which provides the driver with a clear, undistorted, and reasonably unobstructed view of the highway to the rear of such vehicle; provided, a vehicle so constructed or loaded as to make such inside rearview mirror ineffective may be operated if equipped with a mirror of a type to be approved by the Commissioner located so as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of such vehicle. A violation of this subsection shall not constitute negligence per se in civil actions. Farm tractors, self‑propelled implements of husbandry and construction equipment and all self‑propelled vehicles not subject to registration under this Chapter are exempt from the provisions of this section. Provided that pickup trucks equipped with an outside rearview mirror approved by the Commissioner shall be exempt from the inside rearview mirror provision of this section. Any inside mirror installed in any motor vehicle by its manufacturer shall be deemed to comply with the provisions of this subsection.

(b)       It shall be unlawful for any person to operate upon the highways of this State any vehicle manufactured, assembled or first sold on or after January 1, 1966 and registered in this State unless such vehicle is equipped with at least one outside mirror mounted on the driver's side of the vehicle. Mirrors herein required shall be of a type approved by the Commissioner.

(c)       No person shall operate a motorcycle upon the streets or highways of this State unless such motorcycle is equipped with a rearview mirror so mounted as to provide the operator with a clear, undistorted and unobstructed view of at least 200 feet to the rear of the motorcycle. No motorcycle shall be registered in this State after January 1, 1968, unless such motorcycle is equipped with a rearview mirror as described in this section. Violation of the provisions of this subsection shall not be considered negligence per se or contributory negligence per se in any civil action. (1937, c. 407, s. 89; 1965, c. 368; 1967, c. 282, s. 1; c. 674, s. 2; c. 1139; 2002‑159, ss. 22(a), 22(b).)

==North Dakota==
Added: 5-11-09 [http://www.legis.nd.gov/cencode/t39.html North Dakota Century Code]

Title 39 - Motor Vehicles

'''Chapter 39-21''' Equipment of Vehicles&lt;br&gt;
39-21-38. Mirror. On and after 1 January 1964, every motor vehicle, operated singly or when towing any other vehicle, must be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet [60.96 meters] to the rear of such motor vehicle.

'''Chapter 39-27''' Motorcycle Equipment&lt;br&gt;
39-27-10. Mirror. Every motorcycle must be equipped with at least one mirror of unit magnification, securely affixed to the handlebar and capable of adjustment within a range that will reflect an image that includes at least the horizon and the road surface to the rear of the motorcycle. Such a mirror must consist of a minimum reflective surface of ten square inches [64.52 square centimeters]. All mirrors shall not contain sharp edges or projections capable of producing injury.

== Ohio ==

[http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/4513.23]

'''4513.23 Rear view mirror.'''

(A) Every motor vehicle, motorcycle, and trackless trolley shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the operator a view of the highway to the rear of such vehicle, motorcycle, or trackless trolley. Operators of vehicles, motorcycles, streetcars, and trackless trolleys shall have a clear and unobstructed view to the front and to both sides of their vehicles, motorcycles, streetcars, or trackless trolleys and shall have a clear view to the rear of their vehicles, motorcycles, streetcars, or trackless trolleys by mirror.

(B) Whoever violates this section shall be punished as provided in section 4513.99 of the Revised Code.

Effective Date: 01-01-2004

==Oklahoma==
Added: 5-11-09 [http://www.oscn.net/applications/oscn/DeliverDocument.asp?CiteID=82429 OSCN Found Document:Mirrors]

Title 47 - Motor Vehicles&lt;br&gt;
Chapter 12 - Equipment of Vehicles&lt;br&gt;
Article 4 - Other Equipment&lt;br&gt;
Section 12-403 - Mirrors

A. Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror mounted on the left side of the vehicle and so positioned and located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the motor vehicle.

B. Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with an additional mirror mounted either inside the vehicle approximately in the center or outside the vehicle on the right side and so positioned and located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.

C. ...

Historical Data

Laws 1961, p. 408, § 12-403; Amended by Laws 2003, SB 633, c. 411, § 52, eff. November 1, 2003

==Oregon==
'''Added''': 5-10-09 [http://www.leg.state.or.us/ors/815.html Chapter 815 - Vehicle Equipment Generally]


815.235 Operation without rearview mirror; exemptions; penalty.&lt;br&gt;
'''(1)''' A person commits the offense of operation without a rearview mirror if the person does any of the following:&lt;br&gt;
(a) Drives or moves on any highway any motor vehicle that is not equipped with a rearview mirror or device that meets the requirements under this section.&lt;br&gt;
(b) Owns a motor vehicle and causes or knowingly permits the vehicle to be driven or moved on any highway when the vehicle is not equipped with a rearview mirror or device that meets the requirements under this section.&lt;br&gt;
'''(2)''' A rearview mirror or device only meets the requirements of this section if it enables the driver of the vehicle to have such a clear and unobstructed view of the rear at all times and under all conditions of load as will enable the driver to see any other vehicle approaching from not less than 200 feet in the rear on an unobstructed road.&lt;br&gt;
'''(3)''' This section does not apply to the following vehicles:&lt;br&gt;
(a) Vehicles of special interest that are registered under '''ORS''' 805.020 and that were not equipped with rearview mirrors when originally manufactured.&lt;br&gt;
(b) Road machinery, road rollers or farm tractors.&lt;br&gt;
(c) Antique motor vehicles that are registered under ''''ORS''' 805.010 and that were not equipped with rearview mirrors when originally manufactured.&lt;br&gt;
'''(4)''' The offense described in this section, operation without a rearview mirror, is a Class C traffic violation.&lt;br&gt;
[1983 c.338 §493; 1985 c.69 §3]

==Pennsylvania==
[http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/vehicle_code/chapter45.pdf]

§ 4534. Rearview mirrors.
No person shall operate a motor vehicle or combination on a highway unless the vehicle or combination is equipped with at least one mirror, or similar device, which provides the driver an unobstructed view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle or combination. This section shall not apply to any special mobile equipment, commercial implement of husbandry or implement of husbandry that is not so equipped by the original manufacturer.
(June 23, 1982, P.L.605, No.171, eff. imd.; Dec. 18, 1992, P.L.1411, No.174, eff. 60 days)

Taken verbatim from PA Vehicle Code Title 75, Chapter 45, § 4534.

"One mirror, or similar device." Taken literally, means you don't need side (external) mirrors at all, as long as you have an internal rearview mirror. 

This law does not apply to farm equipment, vehicles which were originally not equipped (and are so maintained in specific condition), and special mobility vehicles, such as pedal bikes and certain scooter-type devices. Interpreted from several other sections in PA statutes.

Highway, in PA Vehicle code, refers to pretty much all public roads.

== Rhode Island ==

[http://www.rilin.state.ri.us/statutes/title31/31-23/31-23-15.htm Chapter 31 - 23]

'''§ 31-23-15'''  Rear-view mirror. – (a) Every motor vehicle which is so constructed or loaded as to obstruct the driver's view to the rear of it from the driver's position shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet (200') to the rear of the vehicle.

(b) Every motor vehicle, the primary function of which is the carrying of passengers, shall be equipped with a rear-view mirror on the left front door or fender, so located as to reflect a view of the highway for at least two hundred feet (200') to the rear of the vehicle.

(c) Violations of this section are subject to fines enumerated in § 31-41.1-4. 

== South Carolina ==

[http://www.scstatehouse.gov/CODE/t56c005.htm]

'''SECTION 56-5-4990. Mirrors. '''

Every motor vehicle which is so constructed or loaded as to obstruct the driver's view to the rear thereof from the driver's position shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle.

==South Dakota==

[http://legis.state.sd.us/statutes/DisplayStatute.aspx?Type=Statute&amp;Statute=32-15 SD VEHICLE AND ACCESSORY SPECIFICATIONS 32:15:(1-36)]

[http://www.legis.state.sd.us/statutes/DisplayStatute.aspx?Type=Statute&amp;Statute=32-15-8 32:15:8 REAR-VISION MIRRORS REQUIRED]

Rear-vision mirrors required--Visibility distance--Violation as petty offense.  Every motor vehicle entitled to be licensed in South Dakota shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle, whether operated singly or towing another vehicle. A violation of this section is a petty offense.

Source: SDC 1939, § 44.0348; SL 1967, ch 198; SL 1989, ch 255, § 36.


==Tennessee==
'''Added''': 4-28-09 [http://www.michie.com/tennessee/lpext.dll?f=templates&amp;fn=main-h.htm&amp;cp= Legal Resources]


'''Title 55: Chapter 9: Part 2''' Required Equipment on Vehicles

55-9-206. Trucks to be equipped with rearview mirror. —&lt;br&gt;
Any motor truck using the streets, roads, highways, and other public thoroughfares, which, by reason of its construction, either when loaded or unloaded, prevents the driver's view of the rear, shall be equipped with a mirror arranged in a manner and maintained so that the driver or operator may view the roadway to the rear and note the approach of vehicles from the rear of the motor truck.&lt;br&gt;
[Acts 1923, ch. 53, § 1; Shan. Supp., § 1616a10; Code 1932, § 2709; T.C.A. (orig. ed.), § 59-921.]

55-9-207. Penalty for operating truck without rearview mirror. —&lt;br&gt;
Any person driving a motor truck without a rearview mirror, and the owner of the motor truck, operated upon any public thorough fare, in violation of § 55-9-206, commits a Class C misdemeanor.&lt;br&gt;
[Acts 1923, ch. 53, § 2; Shan. Supp., § 1616a11; Code 1932, § 2710; T.C.A. (orig. ed.), § 59-922; Acts 1989, ch. 591, § 113.]


'''Title 55: Chapter 9: Part 3''' Required Equipment on Motorcycles and Motor Driven Cycles

55-9-305. Rearview mirrors and footrests. —&lt;br&gt;
All motorcycles and motor-driven cycles operated upon any highway or public road of this state shall be equipped with a rearview mirror and securely attached footrests for the operators and passengers on all motorcycles and motor-driven cycles.&lt;br&gt;
[Acts 1968, ch. 493, § 1; 1976, ch. 758, § 3; T.C.A., § 59-937; Acts 2005, ch. 136, § 1.]

55-9-306. Violation of this part — Penalty. —&lt;br&gt;
A violation of this part is a Class C misdemeanor.&lt;br&gt;
[Acts 1967, ch. 45, § 5 (T.C.A. (supp.), § 50-947); T.C.A., § 59-938; Acts 1989, ch. 591, § 113.]

==Texas==
Added: 5-10-09 [http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/vi/publications/rules/safety_manual/chapter4.htm State Vehicle Inspection Procedures]&lt;br&gt;

Chapter 4 - Inspection Procedures &lt;br&gt;
04.20.00 Details Of Inspection &lt;br&gt;

20.19 Mirror - Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least 200 feet to the rear of such motor vehicle.&lt;br&gt;

1.  Inspection Procedure&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; A.  Inspect only one mirror.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; 1.  Exterior Rearview Mirror: From the driver’s position, visually inspect exterior mirror for a clear and reasonably unobstructed view to the rear. Look for correct location and stable mounting.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; 2.  Interior Rearview Mirror: From the driver’s position, visually inspect interior mirror for proper mounting, location, cracks, sharp edges, and ease of adjustment.&lt;br&gt;

2.  Inspect for and reject if:&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; A.  Mirror does not provide the driver with a clear view to the rear of 200 feet.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; B.  Vehicle is not equipped with at least one mirror.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; C.  Mirror offers unsafe interference with driver’s forward vision.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; D.  Reflective surface of mirror is cracked, broken, peeled, tarnished, or has sharp edges.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; E.  Mirror is not mounted securely to prevent swing or excessive vibration unless the vehicle is equipped with another mirror which meets requirements.&lt;br&gt;

NOTE: An inside mirror would meet all the above requirements. If the vehicle is equipped with more than one mirror, only one, either inside or outside, needs to meet all requirements.

==Utah==
'''41-6a-1627.    Mirrors.'''&lt;br&gt;
'''Added''': 4-28-09 [http://le.utah.gov/~code/TITLE41/htm/41_06a162700.htm Legal Resources]&lt;br&gt;
(1) (a) A motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror mounted on the left side of the vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;(b) A mirror under Subsection (1)(a) shall be located to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
(2) (a) Except for a motorcycle, in addition to the mirror required under Subsection (1), a motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror mounted either inside the vehicle approximately in the center or outside the vehicle on the right side.&lt;br&gt;
&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;(b) The mirror under Subsection (2)(a) shall be located to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.

== Vermont ==

[http://www.leg.state.vt.us/statutes/fullsection.cfm?Title=23&amp;Chapter=013&amp;Section=01305 Title 23 Chapter 13 1305. Mirror required]

'''§ 1305. Mirror required'''

All motor trucks and motor vehicles towing a trailer or semi-trailer shall be equipped with a mirror not less than five inches in diameter or with less than 25 square inches of reflective area so attached that the driver shall at all times have a reflected view of other vehicles approaching from the rear. The mirror shall be attached in a manner that complies with the width requirements of section 1431 of this title. The extended rear-view mirror shall be retracted or removed when not towing a trailer or semi-trailer. (Amended 2001, No. 18, § 1, eff. May 8, 2001.)

== Virginia == 

Code § 46.2-1082 sets out the requirements for mirrors on a vehicle. 

That code section provides:No person shall drive a motor vehicle on a highway in the
Commonwealth if the vehicle is not equipped with a mirror which
reflects to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of not
less than 200 feet to the rear of such vehicle.
No motor vehicle registered in the Commonwealth, designed and
licensed primarily for passenger vehicular transportation on the
public highways and manufactured after 1968 shall be driven on
the highways in the Commonwealth unless equipped with at least
one outside and at least one inside rear view mirror meeting the
requirements of this section.Notwithstanding the other provisions of this section, no motor
vehicle which either has no rear window, or which has a rear
window so obstructed as to prevent rearward vision by means of an
inside rear view mirror, shall be required to be equipped with an
inside rear view mirror if such motor vehicle has horizontally and
vertically adjustable outside rear view mirrors installed on both
sides of such motor vehicle in such a manner as to provide the
driver of such motor vehicle a rearward view along both sides of
such motor vehicle for at least 200 feet.

== Washington ==

[http://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.37.400]

'''RCW 46.37.400

Mirrors, backup devices.'''

(1) Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror mounted on the left side of the vehicle and so located to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle.

(2) Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with an additional mirror mounted either inside the vehicle approximately in the center or outside the vehicle on the right side and so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway for a distance of at least two hundred feet to the rear of such vehicle.

(3) Every truck registered or based in Washington that is equipped with a cube-style, walk-in cargo box up to eighteen feet long used in the commercial delivery of goods and services must be equipped with a rear crossview mirror or backup device to alert the driver that a person or object is behind the truck.

(4) All mirrors and backup devices required by this section shall be maintained in good condition. Rear crossview mirrors and backup devices will be of a type approved by the Washington state patrol.

[1998 c 2 § 1; 1977 ex.s. c 355 § 34; 1963 c 154 § 25; 1961 c 12 § 46.37.400. Prior: 1955 c 269 § 40; prior: 1937 c 189 § 37; RRS § 6360-37; RCW 46.36.060.]

Notes:

Effective date -- 1998 c 2: "This act takes effect September 30, 1998." [1998 c 2 § 2.]

Severability -- 1977 ex.s. c 355: See note following RCW 46.37.010.

Effective date -- 1963 c 154: See note following RCW 46.37.010.

Motorcycles and motor-driven cycles -- Additional requirements and limitations: RCW 46.37.539.

==West Virginia==

'''Added''': 5-11-09 [http://www.wvdot.com/6_MOTORISTS/DMV/6G_DMV.HTM Division of Motor Vehicles]

==Wisconsin==

Added: 5-11-09 [http://www.dot.wisconsin.gov/drivers/lawbook.htm Wisconsin motor vehicle laws - Wisconsin Department of Transportation]

Chapter 347 - Equipment of Vehicles

347.40 Mirrors.&lt;br&gt;
(1) No person shall operate any motor vehicle upon a highway unless such vehicle is equipped with a mirror so located as to reflect to the operator a view of the roadway for a distance of 200 feet to the rear of such vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
(2) ...&lt;br&gt;
(3) No person may operate or permit the operation of any motor bus on a highway unless the bus is equipped with 2 outside rearview mirrors, one to the right and one to the left of the operator. Each mirror shall have not less than 50 square inches of unobstructed reflective surface and shall be firmly supported and adjustable to give the operator a clear view past both the right and left rear of the bus.&lt;br&gt;
History: 1975 c. 84; 1987 a. 235.&lt;br&gt;
Cross Reference: See also ss. Trans 305.26 and 305.44, Wis. adm. code.

==Wyoming==
Added: 5-11-09 [http://legisweb.state.wy.us/statutes/statutes.aspx?file=titles/Title31/Title31.htm Wyoming Statutes]

Title 31 - Motor Vehicles&lt;br&gt;
Chapter 5 - Regulation of Traffic on Highways&lt;br&gt;
Article 9 - Equipment

31-5-954. Mirrors.&lt;br&gt;
(a) On or before January 1, 1986, every motor vehicle including motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, multipurpose vehicles and mopeds shall be equipped with a mirror mounted on the left side of the vehicle and so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
(b) Every motor vehicle except a motorcycle, motor-driven cycle or moped, shall be equipped with an additional mirror mounted either inside the vehicle approximately in the center or outside the vehicle on the right side and so located as to reflect to the driver a view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle.</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:38:03Z</timestamp>
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      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; &lt;big&gt;'''Side and Rear View Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)'''&lt;/big&gt;  This page is a collection of laws and regulations regarding side an..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="12019" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
&lt;big&gt;'''Side and Rear View Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)'''&lt;/big&gt;

This page is a collection of laws and regulations regarding side and rear view mirrors in the provinces of Canada. Use this as a reference as you consider the legal implications of a side view mirror delete. (Help it grow)

'''United-States Mirrors Laws by States (U.S.) :''' [[Mirror Laws by State (U.S.)]]

==Quebec==

''C-24.2 262''. 
Every motor vehicle, other than a motorcycle or moped, must be equipped with at least two rear-view mirrors, one solidly attached to the interior of the vehicle at the centre of the upper part of the windshield, and the other, to the exterior of the vehicle on the left side.

Exterior mirror.
When the interior rear-view mirror cannot be used, another rear-view mirror must be attached to the exterior of the vehicle on the right side.

Trailer or semi-trailer.
Where the motor vehicle draws a trailer or a semi-trailer, rear-view mirrors must be attached so as to enable the driver to have a clear view to the back of the combination of vehicles:

one rear-view mirror attached to the exterior of the motor vehicle on the left side if the existing rear-view mirror cannot be used; and

another rear-view mirror attached to the exterior of the motor vehicle on the right side if the existing interior or exterior rear-view mirror on the right side cannot be used.

Special permit.
When an outsized vehicle referred to in the third paragraph is operated under a special permit, the presence of an escort vehicle behind the outsized vehicle may compensate for the absence of rear-view mirrors.

==Ontario==
Highway Traffic Act

Other equipment Windshield wiper, mirror

66.  (1)  Every motor vehicle other than a motorcycle shall be equipped with,

(a) a device for cleaning rain, snow and other moisture from the windshield so constructed as to be controlled or operated by the driver;

(b) a mirror or mirrors securely attached to the vehicle and placed in such a position as to afford the driver a clearly reflected view of the roadway in the rear, or of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

==Manitoba==

The Highway Traffic Act
C.C.S.M. c. H60

"Mirror equipment"

Section: 42(1)       Every motor vehicle and every school bus shall be equipped with a mirror, securely attached thereto and placed in such a position as to afford the driver, while driving, a clear view of the roadway in the rear and of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

[http://web2.gov.mb.ca/laws/statutes/ccsm/h060e.php Link to Unofficial Version]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:56, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Saskatchewan==

CHAPTER V-2.1 REG 10
The Vehicle Administration Act

[[Mirrors]]
4 Sep 87 cV-2.1 Reg 10 Section 67
(Applies to "type-A vehicles" only. See below for explanation. 

(1) A vehicle other than a modified vintage vehicle, shall have at least two rearview
mirrors.

(2) The mirrors shall:
    
    (a) be located one on the left side and one either on the right side or in the interior;
    (b) provide the driver with a clear view to the rear;
    (c) be securely mounted; and
    (d) be adjustable;

(3) An interior mirror, and a left hand exterior mirror on a type A-1 vehicle, shall
have at least 6000 millimetres2 of effective area or the area of mirror installed by
the manufacturer, whichever is less.

(4) A right hand exterior mirror on a vehicle other than a type A-2 vehicle shall
have at least 10000 millimetres2 of effective area where it is a mirror other than
one installed by the manufacturer.

(5) An exterior mirror on a type A-2 vehicle shall have at least 20000 millimetres2
of effective area.

(6) A modified vintage vehicle shall have at least one mirror that provides the
driver with a clear view to the rear.


Section 2:

(oo) “type A vehicle” means a self-propelled vehicle designed for operation
on highways and includes a car, truck, van, motorhome, multipurpose
passenger vehicle, power unit and bus as defined in CMVSS and type A-1 to
type A-3 vehicles, but does not include a vintage vehicle, all-terrain vehicle,
motorcyle or special mobile machine;

(pp) “type A-1 vehicle” means a type A vehicle that is a car, truck, van,
multipurpose passenger vehicle or truck that is 2060 millimetres or less in
width;

(qq) “type A-2 vehicle” means a type A vehicle that is a bus, power unit,
chassis cab or truck that is more than 2060 millimetres width;


[http://www.publications.gov.sk.ca/redirect.cfm?p=1588&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eqp%2Egov%2Esk%2Eca%2Fdocuments%2FEnglish%2FRegulations%2FRegulations%2FV2%2D1R10%2Epdf PDF copy from Queen's Printer]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:55, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Alberta==

TRAFFIC SAFETY ACT, Vehicle Equipment Regulation (AR 122/2009)

[[Section 74, "Rear view mirror":]]

(1) A motor vehicle must have an inside rear view mirror that
gives the driver a clear view of the roadway behind the vehicle and
of any other vehicle approaching from behind.

(2) If the view in the rear view mirror is obstructed or interfered
with in any way, a motor vehicle must have side mirrors on each
side that give the driver a clear view of the roadway behind and on
each side of the motor vehicle.

(3) If a motor vehicle is equipped by a manufacturer with an
outside rear view mirror attached to the left side of the motor
vehicle, the rear view mirror must be maintained in good working
order.

(4) A self-propelled implement of husbandry must have a rear
view mirror that gives the driver a clear view of the roadway
behind the implement of husbandry and of any other vehicle
approaching from behind.


Link to PDF from Queen's printer: [http://www.qp.alberta.ca/documents/Regs/2009_122.pdf Vehicle Equipment Reg]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:56, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==British Colombia==


Motor Vehicle Act: Motor Vehicle Act Regulations

[includes amendments up to B.C. Reg. 90/2012, April 20, 2012]

Division 7 — Other Equipment 

[["Mirrors" Section 7.04]]

(1)  Subject to subsections (3) and (4), every motor vehicle shall be equipped with an inside mirror that provides the driver with an undistorted reflected view of the highway directly to the rear of the vehicle extending to the horizon from a point on the road surface not more than 61 m behind the vehicle.

(2)  In addition to the requirements of subsections (1) and (3), every motor vehicle manufactured after January 1, 1973 shall be equipped with an outside mirror on the driver's side that provides the driver with an undistorted reflected view of the adjacent lane of the highway rearward to the horizon from a point on the road surface 11 m behind the driver.

(3)  Where the inside mirror of a motor vehicle does not provide the view required by subsection (1), the vehicle shall be equipped with a second outside mirror on the side of the vehicle opposite the driver and in that case the inside mirror may be removed.

(4)  Where a trailer or semitrailer in a combination of vehicles diminishes the driver's reflected rear view through the rear view mirrors required by subsections (1) to (3), the towing vehicle in the combination of vehicles shall be equipped with 2 mirrors, one affixed to each side of the motor vehicle, and each to provide the driver with an undistorted reflected view of the adjacent lane of the highway from a point on the road surface 11 m behind the driver to a point on the road surface 61 m from the rear of the combination of vehicles.

[en. B.C. Reg. 5/83, s. 2.]
[http://www.bclaws.ca/EPLibraries/bclaws_new/document/ID/freeside/26_58_04 PDF version from Queen's Printer]

==New-Brunswick==

Motor Vehicle Act, RSNB 1973, c M-17

Section 237:
Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror so located and adjusted as to reflect to the driver without obstruction by any part of the vehicle or load thereon a view of the highway for a distance of at least sixty metres to the rear of such vehicle.

[http://www.canlii.org/en/nb/laws/stat/rsnb-1973-c-m-17/latest/rsnb-1973-c-m-17.html Canlii version of the Act]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:56, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Nova Scotia==


Standards of Vehicle Equipment Regulations

made under Section 200 of the
Motor Vehicle Act
R.S.N.S. 1989, c. 293
O.I.C. 85-216 (March 12, 1985), N.S. Reg. 51/85 

Section 19 Every vehicle shall be equipped with a rear view mirror which is not discoloured or cracked or otherwise damaged to an extent which would impair a driver's vision. 

[http://www.gov.ns.ca/just/regulations/regs/mvstdsve.htm Link to Queen's Printer Consolidation]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:57, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Newfoundland and Labrador==

Licensing and Equipment Regulations
(O.C. 96-211) 


Mirrors, Section 33.2 
(1) Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror securely attached to it and placed in a position that will afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and of a vehicle approaching from the rear.

(2)  Where the view afforded by the mirror required under subsection (1) is obstructed or interfered with, a side rear view mirror shall be attached to each side of the motor vehicle and shall be placed so as to afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and to each side of the motor vehicle.

(3)  The towing vehicle in every combination of motor vehicles shall, when the trailer or semi-trailer is so designed that it impedes the rear view of the driver through a mirror as provided in subsection (1), be equipped with 2 mirrors, one affixed to each side of the motor vehicle and both to provide the driver with a clear view of the roadway to the rear of the combination of vehicles.

(4)  A mirror shall be securely mounted and maintain a set adjustment.

(5)  A mirror shall not be cracked. 

[http://www.assembly.nl.ca/legislation/sr/regulations/rc961007.htm Link to Unofficial Version]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:57, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Prince Edward Island==
Every motor vehicle, other than a farm tractor, must be equipped with a mirror located and adjusted to give the driver an unobstructed rear view for at least 60 meters to the rear of the vehicle.

The operator of a towing vehicle which has an exterior accessory rearview mirror which extends beyond the length of a fixed standard mirror, or more than 10 inches beyond the body of the towing vehicle, must remove or fix the exterior accessory rearview mirror so that it is 250 mm or less beyond the body of the towing vehicle when the equipment being towed is disconnected.

[http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/trailer-mirrors/]

==Yukon==
MOTOR VEHICLES ACT
Motor Vehicles Equipment Regulations, YOIC 1987/86 

Rear view mirror

(1) Every motor vehicle shall carry a mirror securely attached to it and placed in a position that will afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

(2) Where the view afforded by the mirror required under subsection (1) is obstructed or interfered with in any manner, a side rear vision mirror shall be attached to each side of the motor vehicle and shall be placed in such a position as to afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and to each side of the motor vehicle.

(3) In addition to any mirrors required under subsections (1) and (2), every new motor vehicle sold shall carry a side rear vision mirror attached to the left side of the motor vehicle in such a position as to afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear left side of the vehicle.

(4) Every self-propelled implement of husbandry when operated on a highway shall carry a mirror securely attached to it and placed in a position that will afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

==North-West Territory==
''Information required:'' What is the law about mirrors in this province?
==Nunavut==
''Information required:'' What is the law about mirrors in this province?</text>
    <sha1>b404bc6d331dcedb6998048838379554cc5a41ee</sha1>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Decrease hood to windshield angle</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>26</id>
  <revision>
    <id>27</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:40:45Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:HoodAngle.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Another..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1741" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:HoodAngle.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Another radical modification requiring much fabrication. Decreasing the angle between the hood and windshield reduces the amount of pressure build-up at its base and can help maintain laminar flow at the windshield/roof transition.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/crazy-aeromodded-metro-chopped-teardropped-90.html Crazy aeromodded Metro - chopped &amp; teardropped]

=== External links ===

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 20, Hood and windshield angle of inclination</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Front air dam</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>27</id>
  <revision>
    <id>28</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:41:42Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:FrontAirDam.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Exten..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3144" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:FrontAirDam.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Extending a dam to the level of the lowest underbody component (possibly lower depending on the vehicle) diverts air away from (around) the most aerodynamically "dirty" area of most vehicles.

Adding air dams (particularly on trucks &amp; SUV's) is a common tactic used by auto makers looking for quick aero-fixes to improve efficiency.

For cars that have a belly pan this mod is likely to cause no gain and may result in worse efficiency.

== Instructions for mod ==
Screw a large piece of material to the front of the car. Ensure the bottom of the material is lower than the lowest object underneath the car this will cause most of the airflow to not be disturbed by the unaerodynamic underside of the car

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Big Dave || Ford F350 pickup ||  ||  || 26.34 &lt;br&gt;Tank fill measured || 27.00 &lt;br&gt;Tank fill measured || 2.5%&lt;br&gt;Tank fill measured|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/effects-air-dam-ford-f350-pickup-3171.html Effects of air dam (Ford F350)]
|-
|-
|kir_kenix || 1997 Chevy S10 || $5 || 15 Min || 31ish &lt;br&gt; || 31.7 &lt;br&gt; || 1%&lt;br&gt;Tank fill measured|| []
|-
|moorecomp || 99 Escort ZX2 || $7 || 30 min ||  ||  || 4.6% or 2MPG (tank to tank data) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/home-depot-air-dam-13986.html Home Depot Air Dam]
|-
|wagonman76 || 89 6000 LE Wagon  || $0 || &lt;1 Hour || ||  || 7% or 2MPG (several months of tank to tank data)  || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/1989-pontiac-6000-wagon-my-build-thread-6728.html Lawn edging airdam still holding up well]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- A very low air dam may result in scraping the ground during turns or going over bumps

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/effects-air-dam-ford-f350-pickup-3171.html Effects of air dam (Ford F350)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/5th-generation-civic-hatchback-improving-aerodynamics-312.html#post2283 5th generation civic hatchback - improving aerodynamics]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/first-draft-eco-focus-mods-3249.html First Draft Eco Focus Mods]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lawn-edging-airdam-still-holding-up-well-11883.html Lawn edging airdam still holding up well]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/1989-pontiac-6000-wagon-my-build-thread-6728.html 1989 Pontiac 6000 Wagon - my build thread]

=== External links ===
[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/113_0703_car_aerodynamics/viewall.html Hotrod.com wind tunnel testing]

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow field features and aerodynamic drag of passanger cars] &lt;&lt;&lt; Pages 18 and 19 apply to air dams</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Front wheel arch gap fillers</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>28</id>
  <revision>
    <id>29</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:42:25Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ArchGapFill.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3435" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ArchGapFill.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This mod could be considered a partial wheel/fender skirt, which in combination with a smooth wheel cover may provide some of the benefits of a full skirt.

For modders that don't want wheel skirts on the front or rear wheels this mod can give some benefit.

Manufacturers of high efficiency cars that do not use wheel skirts typically try to minimize the tire/wheel arch gap to assist airflow, in addition to using a wheel offset which has the outside wheel/tire surface close to the side plane of the vehicle. Examples are the 2nd generation Prius, GM Volt, Audi A2.

== Instructions for mod ==
Cut some coroplast to the dimensions of the wheel arch gap. Screw the coroplast onto the car. Ensure there is enough room for the wheels to turn and allow a little gap to allow the car to bounce a bit.

A possible method to mount coroplast to improve the wheel well aerodynamics is&lt;br&gt;
[[Image:WheelArchRivets.JPG|right|thumb|300px|]]
- Drill holes around the wheel wells around 7 appears to work well&lt;br&gt;
- Cut metal tabs about 35 mm long and 15 mm wide with 2 holes at either end&lt;br&gt;
- For every hole drilled in the wheel well, pop rivet one side of previously cut metal tab to the wheel well&lt;br&gt;
- Bend the metal tabs 90 degrees so that the face of the tab is a thickness of coroplast below the face of the wheel well &lt;br&gt;
See image to the right for an example


[[Image:WheelArchTaped.JPG|right|thumb|300px|]]
- Cut coroplast to the desired shape&lt;br&gt;
- Drill holes in coroplast which lines up with the holes in the tabs&lt;br&gt;
- Cut metal squares 15 mm width and height and drill a hole in them, enough metal squares should be made to match the amount of tabs&lt;br&gt;
- Use the cut metal squares to mount the coroplast so that the coroplast is sandwitched between the metal tab and the metal square using pop rivets&lt;br&gt;
- For a nicer finish cloth tape can be used to hide gaps between the coroplast and wheel well&lt;br&gt;
See image to the right for an example


Note: This mod maybe best done after any weight reducing mods as the arch gap may change slightly with changed weight&lt;br&gt;
Note: Fiber-glass may provide a more professional finish however coroplast has an advantage that if not enough clearance is given for the wheel the coroplast will be quickly cut to the right shape by the wheel.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&amp;lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|cons || 04 Ranger  || $3 USD || 1 Hour || 30 || 31 || 3.23% (1 MPG) tank to tank data approximations, big arches covered on truck|| 
|-
|Saand || Mazda 626 91 || $5 || 2 Hours per wheel well ||  ||  ||  || 
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Depending on installation method the wheels may scrape the arch gap material if the car bounces or if many people are in the car&lt;br&gt;
- If a material other than coroplast is used such as metal any scraping on the wheels may cut and puncture the wheels.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/jetta-tdi-duct-tape-mods-4869.html Jetta TDI duct tape mods]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Frontal area reduction</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>29</id>
  <revision>
    <id>30</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:43:21Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:FrontAreaReduction.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1998" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:FrontAreaReduction.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This mod involves any radical modification that reduces frontal area (aside from simple removal of a mirror, roof racks, etc., or lowering). This may include chopped tops, or other reforming of the body.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|DeadAt40 || Honda, Civic, 88 ||  || A long time || unknown (around 37 MPG)|| additional 5 MPG || 13.5% assuming originally 37 MPG || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/chopped-dropped-88-civic-5-mpg-4724.html Chopped &amp; dropped '88 Civic = +5 mpg]&lt;br&gt; [http://www.gaugemagazine.com/2003/august03/Ladnier88Civic/Article.htm More pictures and info] 
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/chopped-dropped-88-civic-5-mpg-4724.html Chopped &amp;amp; dropped '88 Civic = +5 mpg]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/another-chopped-car-better-mpg-metro-convertible-4781.html Another chopped car with better MPG - Metro convertible]

=== External links ===
[http://metrompg.com/posts/xfi-aero-car.htm Modified Metro XFi: throwing convention to the wind]

[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/113_0703_car_aerodynamics/viewall.html hotrod.com wind tunnel testing]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Full boat tail</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>30</id>
  <revision>
    <id>31</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:53:04Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:BoatTail.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Boat Tail]] Image:xl01.jpg|right..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3044" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:BoatTail.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Boat Tail]]
[[Image:xl01.jpg|right|thumb|256px|Frame|Volks Wagon Concept Car]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Taking the partial Kammback to its logical conclusion, this mod dramatically reduces rear pressure drag and minimizes trailing wake.

Of all aero mods, a full boat tail will probably have the single largest effect on reducing fuel consumption, though it is obviously more difficult to construct (and will result in more heads turned than anything other mod!).

== Instructions for mod ==
Refer to user table for instructions

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|MetroMPG || Pontiac Firefly 1998 (Geo Metro) || || || 55.93 || 64.39 || 15.1% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-geo-metro-boat-tail-prototype-15-mpg-10691.html Project: Geo Metro boat tail prototype - 15% MPG improvement @ 90 kph / 56 mph] &lt;br&gt; [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-geo-metro-boat-tail-prototype-15-mpg-10691-25.html#post145226 ABA tests for mod]
|-
|brucey || Subaru Outback || || || 35.8 || 37.7 || 5.3% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/subaru-outback-prototype-boat-tail-test-results-10391.html Subaru Outback Prototype Boat Tail Test Results]
|-
|weather spotter || 2006 Toyota matrix|| ~$300 || 40 hours|| ~46|| ~51 || ~11% 5MPG || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/full-boat-tail-matrix-14954.html full boat tail on a matrix]
|-
|cons || 04 Ranger  || $300 || 15 hours|| 30 || ??? || no tank to tank data yet || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aeroranger-brother-aerojeep-boat-tail-14507.html AeroRanger (brother to AeroJeep) boat-tail]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Some confused looks by passers by

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-geo-metro-boat-tail-prototype-15-mpg-10691.html Project: Geo Metro boat tail prototype - 15% MPG improvement @ 90 kph / 56 mph]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerocivic-how-drop-your-cd-0-31-0-a-290.html Aerocivic - how to drop your Cd from 0.34 to 0.17]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/5th-generation-civic-hatchback-improving-aerodynamics-312-7.html#post57525 5th generation civic hatchback - improving aerodynamics]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aeromodding-1930s-38-mpg-70-mph-model-t-92.html Aeromodding in the 1930's: 38 mpg, 70 mph Model T]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/full-boat-tail-matrix-14954.html Full boat tail on a matrix]

=== External links ===

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 25, boat tails</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Grill block partial or full</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>31</id>
  <revision>
    <id>32</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:53:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  Image:BeforeAfterGrillBlock.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Before and after gril..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="7028" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:BeforeAfterGrillBlock.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Before and after grill block installation]]

'''Introduction'''

Grill blocks have two purposes. The first is it cut down on aerodynamic drag by limiting the amount of air that enters the engine bay. The second is to allow the engine/transaxle (fwd vehicles) to warm up more quickly and retain more heat in the colder months by reducing excessive airflow through the engine compartment in colder months.

Grill blocks come in many forms, though most often they are made to be flush with the outside of the bumper for greatest benefit. Simply inserting a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator does not provide the same aerodynamic benefit.

While grill openings are usually oversized for "worst case" applications (towing a trailer through Death Valley with the A/C on), obviously care must be taken to monitor coolant temperature. If your cooling fan runs more after installing a block, you've gone too far. So, pay attention to your temp gauge and making your grill block easy to remove.

The idea is to block air from entering your engine compartment. This does two things, it reduces drag and helps the engine warm up faster. 

This modification can cause the engine to get too hot as the grill block will block off air flow to the radiator. Some users have made actuated grill blocks which open when the radiator gets too hot. This reduces the use of the electric fan which draws power from the battery and therefore from the engine.


== Theoretical Discussions related to Grill Blocks ==
&lt;!-- Didn't really see the benefit of the original "Instructions for mod" section, so replaced with this one - NachtRitter --&gt;
=== Korff's Minimum Opening for Cooling ===
[[Image:KorffIntakeDuct.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Korff Intake Duct]]Walter Korff (see book reference below) determined the minimum opening needed for efficient ram air cooling assuming sealed ductwork around the radiator, as follows:
* Length from inlet duct to radiator should be equal to the radiator height.
* Inlet entrance height need only be 1/6th of the radiator height IF duct length is equal to radiator height
* Duct must be sealed airtight on both sides of radiator to hold pressure.
* No air leaks between duct and radiator.
However, most cars have too short a nose to have the 1/6th radiator size opening. Without extending the nose (such as the [http://www.aerocivic.com Aerocivic], the opening would need to be enlarged to compensate.

See the forum thread [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ducting-air-grille-radiator-6439.html Ducting air from grille to radiator] for more on this discussion

== User experiences ==

Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, Matrix, 2006 || $4 (paint) || 2 hr || 45.02 || 45.73 || 1.55% (.71 MPG) ABA test data, top grill block only! Does not include warm up time savings|| [[HOW I made a grill block Page]]
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, Matrix, 2006 || $30 || 8 hr || 45.0 || 45.5 || 1.11% (.5 MPG) Instantaneous SG readout over many trips, lower grill block only! Does not include warm up time savings (25% faster)|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lower-grill-block-can-open-close-14328.html Lower grill block that can open and close]
|-
|Arminius || Honda, Civic LX, 2005 ||  ||  || 46.125 || 44.925 || 2.67%|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lower-grill-block-2005-honda-civic-1822.html Forum:Lower Grill Block 2005 Honda Civic]
|-
|Soulster || Kia, Soul, 2010 || $0 || 1 hour || 33.97 || 34.32 || Upper grill block only 1.01% (.35 MPG) ABA testing || [[Soulster grill block data]]
|-
|euromodder || Volvo, V50, 2005 || $0 (tape) || &lt;1 hour || 67.2 || 71.3 || 6% @ 43.5mph - FE never seen before - fairly consistent 0.2 L/100km (or better !) reduction at steady speeds compared to previously known FC || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/189972-post32.html First real mod : grill block]
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/189972-post34.html Grill block testing]
|-
|cons || 04 Ranger  || $1 || .5 hour || 30 MPG || 31 MPG || Upper grill block only 3.23% (1 MPG) tank to tank testing approximations, better results when upper grill was blocked, as opposed to when lower was blocked || 
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || 10$ || 1 Hour ||  ||  || Not tested || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Upper &amp; Lower Grille Block]
|-
|H-Man || Geo Prizm 1994 || $0 || &lt; 1 hour || 36.5 || 38.5 || 5.4% (2 MPG) gain in fuel economy due to the drive train actually warming up. Fan turns on at most once a day with upper grill block. ||
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
* Higher engine temps, that might be good or not, so watch with [[ScanGauge]].
* Over heating if you block all the air flow
* Extra electricity used to run the fan more. Connecting an LED in the cabin to the fan circuit can monitor the times that the fan is running.
Note: Partial grill blocks can be used if overheating occurs. This involves making a grill block that only partially stop air flow into the engine bay.

== References ==
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-grill-block-wiki-discussion-14299.html Forum discussion thread for this page]

=== Forum thread links===
* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-make-upper-grill-block-matrix-14236.html How to make an upper grill block (for a Matrix)]
* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lower-grill-block-can-open-close-14328.html How to make a lower grill block that can open and close (for a Matrix)]

* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lower-grill-block-2005-honda-civic-1822.html Lower Grill Block 2005 Honda Civic]
* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/permanent-aluminum-grill-block-belly-pan-4492.html Permanent Aluminum Grill Block and Belly Pan]
* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/soul-help-grill-block-14482.html#post192976 Soul Help (Grill block)]
* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/92-95-civic-hatchback-coupe-foglight-cover-blocks-11998.html 92-95 Civic Hatchback or Coupe Foglight Cover Blocks] - by [http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-k-civic-f4i.html k.civic.f4i]
*[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/new-grill-block-mounting-method-15335.html Prius grill block]
*[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/arduino-controlled-automatically-actuated-grill-block-6767.html Arduino controlled automatically actuated grill block]

===External links===
* [http://www.crxmpg.com/diy-front-grill-block/ DIY - Front Grill Block]&lt;br&gt;
* Book: [http://isbndb.com/d/book/designing_tomorrows_cars.html Korff, Walter H. ''Designing tomorrow's cars''. Burbank, CA: M-C Publications, 1980]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Partial Kammback</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>32</id>
  <revision>
    <id>33</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:54:31Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  Image:Kammback sample pic.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Weather Spotter's parti..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="3089" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Kammback sample pic.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Weather Spotter's partial Kammback]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
One of the biggest aerodynamic problems with the majority of bluff body vehicles (most hatchbacks, vans, wagons) is the amount of pressure drag / size of the trailing wake. In other words, the rear of the vehicle is where the big gains are to be made.

That said, a hatchback configuration isn't automatically an aerodynamic death sentence. Several of the most slippery production cars in recent years (1st gen Insight, 2nd gen Prius, Audi A2) have used "Kammback" shapes, where the roofline tapers downward, following a particular shape (a "chopped" teardrop).

It's possible to retrofit this shape onto existing vehicles and gain a measurable improvement in fuel economy.


== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, Matrix, 2006 || $15 USD || 12 hr || 45.06 || 45.98 || 1.98% (.91 MPG) ABA testing 2.34% better aero (coast down testing) ||  [[Weather Spotter's Data and How To]]
|-
|3dplane || 94 Mazda Protege DX || $34 || 8 hr ||  ||  || limited testing showed that the particular design hurt MPG || [[3dplane's Kammback how to]]
|-
|wyatt || 94 Suzuki Swift 5MT || $10 || 12 hr || 48 || 50.9 || 6% (2 1800+ mile trips) 12% better aero (coast down testing)|| 
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
You might reduce your rear view, most states require a certain distance behind your car to be viewable.
You also might add to the length of you car (parking issues).

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/help-me-design-my-partial-kammback-14159-3.htm Weather Spotters thread]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-making-permanent-metro-kammback-extension-3518.html Making a permanent Metro Kammback extension]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/1994-suzuki-swift-sedan-coast-down-phase-ii-13037.html Suzuki Swift SedanKamm 4feet=6%FE]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/daihatsu-mira-aerodynamic-modifications-240.htmlDihatsu Mira aerodynamic modifications]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/5th-generation-civic-hatchback-improving-aerodynamics-312-4.html#post7883 5th generation civic hatchback - improving aerodynamics]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/my-kammbacked-vx-5219.html My Kammback'ed VX]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/kammback-doesnt-work-my-sedan-14330.htm Kammback that did not help]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Pickup truck aeroshell</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>33</id>
  <revision>
    <id>34</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:55:11Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AeroShell.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Pickup..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2420" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AeroShell.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Pickup trucks have high coefficients of drag. Fortunately, they're also ideal platforms for adding this highly effective aerodynamic modification.

A number of EcoModders have undertaken this task, recording highway fuel economy improvements of between 13-20% compared to an uncovered bed.

They can be built in such a way as to retain the usability of the bed as well.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| ccrider || Toyota Tacoma 2002 ||  ||  || 25.775 || 26.863 || 4.2% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/tacoma-aerocap-aba-test-12479.html tacoma aerocap ABA test]
|-
| cons || 04 Ranger  || $300 || 20 hours || 30 MPG || 34 MPG || 11.76 (4 MPG) tank to tank testing, better results with trailing edge extended beyond tailgate|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aeroranger-brother-aerojeep-boat-tail-14507.html#post193961 AeroRanger (brother to AeroJeep) boat-tail]
|-
| t vago || 2000 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab  || $170 || 40 hours || 18.9 MPG || 20.5 MPG || 8.3% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t_vagos-compound-curve-foam-board-pickup-aeroshell-15862.html t_vago's compound curve foam board pickup aeroshell]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Poorly constructed or mounted shells could fly off due to fast airflow

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/commercially-produced-aerodynamic-pickup-bed-cap-583.html Commercially produced aerodynamic pickup bed cap]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/phil-knox-fleet-34-years-aeromodding-1280.html Phil Knox fleet - 34 years of aeromodding]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/nissan-oem-pickup-aeroshell-bed-cap-4809.html Nissan OEM pickup aeroshell / bed cap]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>11aacee9b8c02ff75c778d7d16cbe6513ab8057a</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Pickup truck tonneau cover</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>34</id>
  <revision>
    <id>35</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:56:16Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:TonneauCover.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Tonneau cover]] '''Introductio..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2001" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:TonneauCover.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Tonneau cover]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Not quite as effective as a full aeroshell, a tonneau cover (pick up truck flat bed cover) can still provide a measurable fuel economy benefit vs. an open bed.

A tonneau is however much easier to install or fabricate.

Perhaps somewhat counter-intuitive, a partial tonneau can be more effective at drag reduction than a full cover.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/truck-aero-bed-cover-diy-tonneau-1494-2.html Partial Tonneau cover on pickup]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-improve-fuel-economy-tonneau-cover-124.html How to improve fuel economy with a tonneau cover]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/partial-tonneau-cover-pickup-plus-cab-extension-cab-3996.html#post58148 Truck aero bed cover DIY tonneau]

=== External links ===
[http://etonneaucovers.com/news-DoTonneauCoversSaveGas.aspx Tonneau cover aero]</text>
    <sha1>365b93eaab6dd24a73ab287fb0485b3eee506726</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Rear corner airflow trip feature</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>35</id>
  <revision>
    <id>36</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:57:14Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:CornerTrip.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Airflo..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1707" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:CornerTrip.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Airflow along the side of a vehicle tends to follow the curvature of the tail lights and bumper part way around to the rear of the car, which can cause more drag than a sharp corner "crease" that promotes clean separation at the trailing edge.

GM designers integrated such a crease at the rear of the Chevy Volt "production" concept, a feature that could be retrofitted onto existing vehicles.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/video-discussion-several-gm-volt-aero-features-4629.html Video: discussion of several GM Volt aero features]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>bb2b061323bd2790356fece43c0aadc539aaa4cd</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Rear Spoiler</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>36</id>
  <revision>
    <id>37</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:57:51Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; The use of low profile rear..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1829" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The use of low profile rear spoilers that reduce over all drag.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
Remove any existing wing type spoiler or rear cargo rack. Buy or fabricate your aero spoiler and install.&lt;br&gt;
The type of spoiler you are looking for will be small, it will be 5/8 inches long plug or minus 1/4 inch (15mm +/-6mm), 3/4 of an inch seems to be the sweet spot (19-20mm).&lt;br&gt;
The spoiler tilt needs to be about 20 degrees off a vertical axis.

== User experiences  ==
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If the rear spoiler is not properly made then it will increase drag.
 
== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/rear-spoilers-length-angles-17796.html Rear spoilers lengths and angles]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aero-mods-installment-8-induced-drag-spoilers-lips-2685.html Induced drag spoilers]

=== External links ===
[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 26, Rear spoilers

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-decide-whether-remove-rear-spoiler-decrease-drag-598.html How to decide whether to remover a rear spoiler to decrease drag]</text>
    <sha1>1f738247e2877b6269e800466dceafed9cc17748</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Ride height reduction</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>37</id>
  <revision>
    <id>38</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T19:58:54Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:RideHeight.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Loweri..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3011" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:RideHeight.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Lowering a vehicle is a common tactic employed by auto manufacturers to improve efficiency in production and concept vehicles.

While not a guaranteed improvement (much depends on the initial vehicle design - particularly the underbody), reduced ride height has multiple aerodynamic benefits, including:

- improved fineness ratio (length/height)
- slightly reduced frontal area (tires and possibly suspension components)
- reduced tire/wheel arch gaps

Lowering may also reduce body roll, and improve handling enough to permit comfortable/safe cornering at higher speeds, thus saving fuel.

A cheap method or a cheap test can be done using coil clamps rather than buying new coils.

== Instructions for mod ==
Several methods can be used to perform this mod &lt;br&gt;
- Change or cut car wheel springs according to workshop manual &lt;br&gt;
- Alternatively use spring clamps to reduce spring height which reduces overall car height&lt;br&gt;
- Strap car down to force spring compression then heat up (with blow torch) then allow to cool. Note: this is a fairly quick but risky method, overheating springs can cause damage to springs also risk of damage to accidental heating of parts close to springs like wheels &lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Some countries require an engineering certificate for this level of car modification

- Ride comfort can be compromised

- If the springs are reduced too much the car can hit its bump stops or cause damage when going over large bumps such as speed humps. 

- If a car is lowered too far the car may hit speed humps or the road driving in or out of driveways


== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/does-reducing-ground-clearance-really-reduce-drag-1783.html Does reducing ground clearance really reduce drag?]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/54-2-after-lowering-car-4-mpg-gain-4589.html 52.2 after lowering car - 4 MPG gain (Geo Metro)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/affordable-way-lower-your-vehicle-8173-4.html Affordable way to lower your vehicle]

=== External links ===
[http://www.crxmpg.com/lowering-for-both-form-and-function/ How to: Lowering for both form &amp; function - CRXmpg.com]

[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/113_0703_car_aerodynamics/viewall.html hotrod.com wind tunnel testing]</text>
    <sha1>5fbd017ff0bc41ecc55d37b45d373e1c3c5aed64</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Sealed panel gaps</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>38</id>
  <revision>
    <id>39</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:00:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SealedPanelGaps.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]&lt;br&gt; Image:Wstote.jpg|r..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1792" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SealedPanelGaps.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]&lt;br&gt;
[[Image:Wstote.jpg|right|thumb|256px|Frame|Weather Stripping tape on a Toyota Echo.]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
All those little gaps may not seem like much, but they add up. That's why all the bonneville race cars come sealed up like a coffin, and automakers are starting to pay attention to these areas on production cars.

There are many solutions here, including the use of clear tape, color matching silicone filler, or foam weatherstripping. Others will adjust body panels to minimize gaps.

== Instructions for mod ==
Get a caulking gun, tape or foam and block up those gaps

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table &lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Echo-Francis|| Toyota Echo 2005 || 0$ || 10 Mins ||  ||  || Not Tested. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Front lights gaps sealing with WT.]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Difficult to maintain car, depending on method of modification panels may be hard to take off.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/i-basjoosed-my-headlights-today-sealed-surrounding-gap-4736.html I basjoosed my headlights today (sealed the surrounding gap)]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post265285 Block Heater and Weather Stripping Tape on a Toyota Echo]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>586a31931ab5f4760c9622d12dd9f47192108225</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Side skirts</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>39</id>
  <revision>
    <id>40</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:01:26Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Rear-3-4-z.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Aerocivic Side Skirts]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; A side skirt is common on race..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1248" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Rear-3-4-z.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Aerocivic Side Skirts]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
A side skirt is common on race cars. It helps airflow to attach on side of the car instead of creating turbulance by going under the car.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
This could be perform with a lot of kind of material, like coroplast, metal sheet, cardboard, duct tape etc...&lt;br&gt;
If your car is already low, a side skirt might not be usefull.&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $2 || 1 Hour || Not Tested || Not Tested || Maybe 1% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-6.html#post287796 Echo-Francis Side Skirts]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If the car hits something, it could damage the side skirt.

== References ==

=== External links ===
[http://aerocivic.com Aerocivic Website]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum EcoModder Forum]</text>
    <sha1>3da540f371ebd646e06f0995ddf1317aec4ce9e7</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Smooth wheel covers</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>40</id>
  <revision>
    <id>41</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:07:46Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Smooth wheel cover.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Weather Spotter's cover]..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5945" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Smooth wheel cover.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Weather Spotter's cover]] 

'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Moon caps or moon eyes, as they are often known, cut down on aero drag, and can even look pretty cool. The amount of drag reduction varies between different vehicle and wheel styles.

They can be made DIY style with things like pizza pans, or bought at various online retailers.

Some modders will also use clear tape over OEM hubcaps or wheels, though this is obviously less permanent.

== Instructions for mod ==
See how to links in table below. 

Materials to use for mod

- Pizza trays

- Metal sheet

- Coroplast

- Serving Tray

- Fiber glassing over hub caps

'''Different ways to attach to car:'''

Screw into rims, Drill and tap 3 holes equally spaced onto the rims, Screw disks onto rims using taped holes.

Use current hub caps (screw, glue)

Buy pop on moon disks

Buy screw in moon disks

Use lug nuts (drill into them and epoxy in nuts on the ends)

Buy OEM wheel covers and pop them into place


Disks can be painted before screwing onto wheel. A pattern can be painted / stencilled onto the disk which may help hide the mod

Note: Ensure that the disk is easily removable or a hole cut to allow access to the tyre valve for tyre pumping

Note: Aero OEM whell covers will allow acces to the valve stem

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, matrix, 2006 || $4.5 a wheel || 20 min each wheel || 45.06|| 46.54|| 3.17% (1.48 MPG) ABA test data 
|| [[Weather Spotters wheel cover how to]]
|-
|Concrete || S-10, 2000 ||  ||  || 28 || 29.3 ||4.6% (1.3 MPG) ABA test data|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-smooth-wheel-discs-tested-b-4-6-a-4368.html Smooth wheel discs tested A-B-A - 4.6% mpg improvement @ 65 mph]
|-
|cons || 04 Ranger  || $20 || 1 hour || 30 || 31.5 ||4.76% (1.5 MPG) tank to tank testing, previously no hubcaps, making mpg gains easier|| 
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || 4$ a wheel || 30 Min each wheel || 58,3 || 59.6 || 2.15% (1.3 MPG) ABA test data (50 MPH Highway Test Results) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264305 Test Results]|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264302 Echo-Francis Wheel Covers (Pizza Pans)]
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || 1984 diesel suburban || $80/5hub caps || &gt;5Min total || 18.5 || 19.1 || 3% tank to tank testing, previously no hubcaps and while towing || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/cheap-aero-wheel-covers-15-steel-22003.html Factory aero wheel covers just buy them cheap and install]
|-
|Gealii || Pontiac Grand am 2002 || $3usd || 2 hours || 27.09 || 28.41 || 1.3 mpg gain tank to tank || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/grand-am-airdam-where-place-23054-4.html DIY coro covers]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Any way you attach wheel covers, they might come off, if so you are liable for what they hit. On the other hand it seems perfectly acceptable, even expected for OEM or OE style wheel covers to fall off.

If you bolt them onto the rim you are removing some material from the rim and might weaken it. 

You might unbalance you wheels with the cover causing tread wear, rough ride and suspension issues.

The covers may reduce access to the tyre valve used for pumping up the tyre

These may block air from flowing by the brakes, keeping them hotter.

With OEM wheel covers all these problems are addressed, they are attached very well and need no modification, they are balanced, they allow access to the valve stem and they have small gaps or slits to allow minimum air flow for brakes and hub cooling (the gaps can be covered with clear tape for long highway trips).

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/simple-honda-vx-alloy-wheel-covers-drilled-acorn-14306.html Simple Honda VX Alloy Wheel Covers (drilled acorn wheel nuts as attachment points)] - by NachtRitter

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aero-hub-caps-14295.html#post190285 Aero hub caps]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-smooth-wheel-discs-tested-b-4-6-a-4368.html Smooth wheel discs tested A-B-A - 4.6% mpg improvement @ 65 mph] - by Concrete

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/5th-generation-civic-hatchback-improving-aerodynamics-312-2.html#post5714 5th generation civic hatchback - improving aerodynamics]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/serving-tray-racing-disk-11838.html Serving Tray Racing Disk ...] - by cfg83

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/zipties-securing-smooth-hubcaps-keep-burning-up-15923.html Geo Metropolis]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264305 Disc Covers on a Toyota Echo (Test Results)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264302 Echo-Francis Wheel Covers (Pizza Pans)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/cheap-aero-wheel-covers-15-steel-22003.html cheap and fast to install pop-in OEM aero wheel covers for 15 inch steelies] - by oil pan 4

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/coroplast-smooth-wheel-covers-22147.html Coroplast smooth wheel covers, MUST READ]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-easy-smooth-wheel-covers-23563.html Easy smooth wheel covers using alloy wheel center cap as mounting point]

=== External links ===
[http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/113_0703_car_aerodynamics/viewall.html hotrod.com wind tunnel testing]</text>
    <sha1>b695666cdc483c2c75184f0fe51f514b7c8f7a7a</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Radius front wheel arches</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>41</id>
  <revision>
    <id>42</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:08:38Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SoftEdge.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Radiusin..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1980" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SoftEdge.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Radiusing the aft edge of wheel well arches allows air exiting the wheel well to more easily stay attached to/reattach to the side of the body.

While modifying the metalwork itself would be difficult, the mod could also be accomplished by adding &amp; shaping material on the inside of the arch.

Examples of this design approach can be seen on the first generation Honda Insight, GM EV1 and Corvette, VW 1L concept, and Solectria Sunrise prototype EV (pictured). 

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 &lt;span class="plainlinks"&gt;[http://thoughtmechanics.com/ &lt;span style="color:black;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none!important;background:none!important; text-decoration:none;"&gt;atlanta web design&lt;/span&gt;]&lt;/span&gt; Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || &lt;span class="plainlinks"&gt;[http://www.thoughtmechanics.com/ &lt;span style="color:black;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none!important;background:none!important; text-decoration:none;"&gt;atlanta web design firms&lt;/span&gt;]&lt;/span&gt;
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===


=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>6c8977c54d8483555a60a7ba8fd2f0fe67249778</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Tire spats</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>42</id>
  <revision>
    <id>43</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:09:34Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:TireSpats.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Properl..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1538" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:TireSpats.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Properly designed tire spats or contoured deflectors direct flow around tires in such a way that drag is reduced without increasing outward flow enough to increase wake.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || 0$ (Coroplast) || 15 Mins per Spats (2) ||  ||  || Not tested. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Front Wheels Deflectors]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerocivic-how-drop-your-cd-0-31-0-a-290.html#post2111 Aerocivic - how to drop your Cd from 0.34 to 0.17]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
    <sha1>839d8248089dc04bb282349c4a332d4c690a6b4a</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Upgrade headlights</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>43</id>
  <revision>
    <id>44</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:10:26Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AeroHeadlights.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; So..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2138" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AeroHeadlights.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Some older headlight assemblies (particularly those with the sealed beam bulbs), have a bucket-style scoop design. Often these can be swapped out for different style headlights, or modified to cut down on aero drag.

Some car models came with both bucket and aero style assemblies, so swapping is a plug 'n' play affair.

One EcoModder member even removed his significantly less aero pop-up style sealed beams with a lower profile flush fitting assembly from another vehicle.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example &lt;span class="plainlinks"&gt;[http://thoughtmechanics.com/ &lt;span style="color:black;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none!important;background:none!important; text-decoration:none;"&gt;web design firm atlanta&lt;/span&gt;]&lt;/span&gt; Data 29.8 || || &lt;span class="plainlinks"&gt;[http://www.thoughtmechanics.com/ &lt;span style="color:black;font-weight:normal;text-decoration:none!important;background:none!important; text-decoration:none;"&gt;atlanta web design firms&lt;/span&gt;]&lt;/span&gt;
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fender-skirts-low-profile-headlamps-87-accord-3403.html Low Profile Headlamps (87 Accord)]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>f7c29499851b47c9fe37e95166b94b110d3ada8d</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Rear wheel skirts</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>44</id>
  <revision>
    <id>45</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:28:14Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Skirt32.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Rear Wheel Skirt on a Toyota Prius]..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2093" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Skirt32.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Rear Wheel Skirt on a Toyota Prius]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Just as entire vehicle rear ends can benefit from boat tailing, so can individual wheels/tires.

The 2nd generation Toyota Prius has tapered bodywork (in the bumper cover) behind its rear tires that serve this purpose.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
See user data table below for instructions

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota, Matrix, 2006 || $22 USD || 10 Hours || 43.42 || 44.02 || testing showed a .4 to a .6 MPG I think it is more like .75-1 MPG || [[Weather_Spotter_Rear_wheel_skirts|Weather Spotters Modification Method and test results]]
|-
|MetroMPG || Toyota, Corolla, 2007 ||  || 0.5 Hour || 50.24 || 50.53 || 0.58% ||
|-
|cons || 04 Ranger  || $10 USD || .5 Hour || 30 MPG || 32 MPG || 6.25% (2 MPG) tank to tank testing, truck had huge gaps to cover, making it easier for more mpg improvements than a low sedan || 
|-
|kevlar || Truck ||  ||  || 30.8 MPG || 32.1 MPG || 4.2% tank to tank testing, mod performed on a truck so larger gains than cars ||
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || 5$ || 5 Hours ||  ||  || Not tested. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Rear Wheels Skirts]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
* A few looks from other drivers &lt;br&gt;
* Difficulty changing flat tire (depends on method of mounting rear skirts)

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

 - by cfg83

=== External links ===
[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 27, Wheels a major drag contributor</text>
    <sha1>b9c691143b863b7b31fc8ee57d7897d0c486cc80</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Front wheel skirts</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>45</id>
  <revision>
    <id>46</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:28:45Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:FrontWheelSkirts.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2257" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Fabrication|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:FrontWheelSkirts.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Front wheel skirts have many of the same benefits as rear wheel skirts, but are a lot harder to make because the front wheels have to steer!

Front skirts have appeared on a few high MPG concept cars, and a few EcoModder members have tackled the project, but this mod is not for the faint of heart.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
* A few looks from other drivers &lt;br&gt;
* Difficulty changing flat tire (depends on method of mounting rear skirts)

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/video-tuft-testing-front-wheel-skirts-geo-metro-5403.html Video: tuft testing front wheel skirts (Geo Metro)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-rubber-front-wheel-skirts-398.html DIY rubber front wheel skirts (Dihatsu Mira)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerocivic-how-drop-your-cd-0-31-0-a-290.html#post2112 Aerocivic - how to drop your Cd from 0.34 to 0.17]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/designing-building-front-wheel-skirts-v-1-0-a-5462.html Designing &amp; building front wheel skirts v1.0 (Geo Metro)]

=== External links ===

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 27, Wheels a major drag contributor</text>
    <sha1>0d5cbec6c6859f849b9fc31be536a87373e9e6ca</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Wheel Arch Mud Flaps</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>46</id>
  <revision>
    <id>47</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:29:52Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:IMG 0456.JPG|right|thumb|256px|Frame|Rear Wheel Arch Mud Flap on a Toyota Echo.]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; A wheel arch..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1872" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:IMG 0456.JPG|right|thumb|256px|Frame|Rear Wheel Arch Mud Flap on a Toyota Echo.]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
A wheel arch mud flaps is present only on few cars without a complete mud flap. So it is good for aerodynamic and for fewer dirt accumulation. It is also good if you have a belly pan, this can prevent the pan to act like a parachute.

== Instructions for mod ==
This mod can be done in many various way, with coroplast, metal sheet or other material in this type. 

''More Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''More Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo, 2005|| maybe 1$ of Duct tape || 1 Hour per wheels ||  ||  || Not tested|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-4.html#post279937 Rear Wheels Arch Mud Flaps on a Toyota Echo]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Be sure that the Arch Mud Flap do not interfere with the rolling of the tire, you could break cable or pipe, depending on the car model.

''More Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-4.html#post279937 Rear Wheels Arch Mud Flaps on a Toyota Echo]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com EcoModder Forum]</text>
    <sha1>89b129005fc499642a009b500353b29f804aff94</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Windshield wiper cover</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>47</id>
  <revision>
    <id>48</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T20:32:09Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:WindshieldWiper.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; The effect of front and rear wipers on airflow..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="4544" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:WindshieldWiper.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The effect of front and rear wipers on airflow varies from vehicle to vehicle. Some vehicles are designed to keep the wipers out of the airflow when they are in the off position. Some people remove their wipers but others always want the availability of their wipers. 
For people that want to keep their wipers they can place a aerodynamic cover on the bonnet which extends the hood to the point where the wipers are out of the airflow. 

One of the additional effects of the wiper cover is it covers the fresh air intake at the cowl. 

Restricting flow into the intake there may be similar to the concept of a grille block: better to send air around the car than through it, unless you need the air.

== Instructions for mod ==
There are many different ways to make a cover for the wipers. One method is described below


[[Image:WiperCoverFlipped.JPG|right|400px|]]
- Get some metal sheet that is as wide as the cars bonnet, the metal doesn't have to be too thick just thick enough to be able to hold a screw head. (0.45mm thickness worked well) &lt;br&gt;
- Work out the gradient of the metal with respect to the car bonnet, this will be used to make wedges that will hold the metal at the right angle and to cut the metal sheet to the right dimensions. The metal gradient can be worked out by placing something flat between the water jets and the wipers, this will be close to the line of the metal sheet &lt;br&gt;
- Cut the metal sheet so that it covers from the windscreen wiper water jets up to the wipers themselves, take into account the fact the metal will be raised to deflect the air over the wipers. Note: this step takes some time and the metal can be trimmed later on after doing later steps.&lt;br&gt;
- Cut some wedges which will be fixed to the metal sheet and raise the metal up from the bonnet at the correct gradient. The wedges can be either plastic, metal or wood (if wood is chosen it should be a type that isn't effected much by water). The wedges may have to be different gradients or lengths depending on where on the metal sheet they are to go.&lt;br&gt;
- Fix the wedges to the appropriate places on the metal sheet, likely at least 4 will be required to keep the sheet up depending on the thickness of the sheet. &lt;br&gt;
[[Image:WiperCoverFitted.JPG|right|400px|]]
- test fit the sheet to the bonnet, check that the gradient is correct noting if the wipers are still going to be in the air flow. Test out the wipers operation, check that the wipers can clear the metal sheet and that the water jets clear the metal sheet. If its desired to be able to open the bonnet without removing the wiper cover check that the bonnet can open without the metal sheet or the wedges hit the wipers or the windscreen.&lt;br&gt;
- Make any changes to wedges or metal sheet based on the previous tests, keep testing and changing until your happy.&lt;br&gt;
- Fix the metal sheet to the bonnet. This can be done with pop rivets or screws or many others. &lt;br&gt; 
- Fix each of the wedges to the bonnet, if this is not done the metal sheet will flap in the air flow.&lt;br&gt;
- Paint the metal sheet and wedges if desired&lt;br&gt;
- Tape or gap filler can be used to smooth out the gaps between the bonnet and the new metal sheet.&lt;br&gt;

Note: the above method will likely cause scratches and holes to be put into the bonnet so if you want to be able to sell your car at some point you may need to modify this method.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $10 || 3 Hours || || || || 
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $10 || 2 Hours||  ||  || 1.5% MPG || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Whiper Deflector]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Poorer visibility due to more windscreen area being blocked&lt;br&gt;
Some crap get stuck in the enclosed area, and snow can be difficult to remove.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/windshield-wiper-cowl-cover-blocker-thingy-7126.html Windshield Wiper Cowl / Cover / Blocker Thingy?]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiper-cover-test-6155.html Wiper cover test]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>fb01259e6cea56a05fe65bb641ed37608759e963</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Advanced ignition timing</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>48</id>
  <revision>
    <id>49</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:34:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AdvancedIgnition.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2420" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AdvancedIgnition.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Advancing timing can increase low rpm power which is where most ecodrivers spend their time driving. This can lead to improved BSFC at those rpms. You must be careful not to advance too far as you could encounter engine ping, which could lead to damage (assuming the engine does not have a knock sensor). 

== Instructions for mod ==
There are several ways to perform this modification but to safely perform this modification it is a must to have some means of scanning. Without the ability to scan for Knock Retard (KR) one risks pinging and damaging the engine.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;
To perform this modification the correct way on Electronic Fuel Injected (EFI) vehicles you will need to look for a program that will allow you to calibrate/flash/burn the cars computer. Different vehicles require different means to do this based on the architecture of the hardware. Some tuning programs to look into are: HPtuner, EFI live and, TunerCats.

On older vehicles with a distributer a timing light can be used to advance timing.

In any case when increasing timing only increase it ONE degree at a time and then scan for KR with the car fully warmed up, if KR is detected reduce the timing by TWO degrees or to stock. On EFI vehicles timing can be increased/reduced in individual calls based on RPM and Load.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

''More information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Engine troubles, pinging, poor engine control if mod is done incorrectly

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===


=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>0da9711c6950757fb8665ca5c296e59018af120b</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="">
  <title>Car idle reduction</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>49</id>
  <revision>
    <id>50</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:35:33Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  Image:LowIdle.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Car idling at normal and low R..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3235" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:LowIdle.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Car idling at normal and low RPM]]

'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;

A car's idle is typically set at a level which will ensure it can never stall. This is desirable for the general public but better efficiency can be gained at the expence of a small risk of stalling or poorer drivability.

 
A reduction of idle will reduce the amount of fuel used when the car is idling as the engine rotates at fewer RPMs and therefore less friction and less fuel. The most gains will be observed for driver stopping frequently at traffic lights.
 

Note: This mod may result in increased engine wear as less oil is pumped at lower RPMs for cars with oil pumps powered directly from the engine

 
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-car-idle-reduction-14474.html Forum thread for discussion about this wiki page]
== Instructions for mod ==
[[Image:IdleControlScrew.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]


See your cars workshop manual for directions to adjust your particular cars idle.

 
Typically the steps are as follows

- The car is warmed up to operating temperature by idling or reving the engine for some time.

- Some electronic controlled engines require a diagnostic connection to be bridged or connected to 0v. The connection informs the ECU that the user is adjusting the idle so that the ECU doesn't compensate for lower idle.

- A set screw is rotated to adjust the idle typically the set screw is found on the throttle control module (connected to the air intake).

- For electronic controlled engines the diagnostic connection bridge is removed

 
For some cars the ECU will always attempt to keep the idle above a safe limit. This feature can often be overridden by locating the diagnostic connection, bridging it or connecting to 0v when a low idle is desired. This can be achieved by a switch placed in the cabin. (Note: Some cars can only have the idle adjusted by having the ECU reprogrammed.)

== User experiences  ==

Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $5 || 2 Hour (Due to time for installing switch to tell ECU to stop compenating for low idle)|| 19.9 ml per minute || 15.4 ml per minute || 22.7% reduction at idle (based on back to back tests using home made scan gauge) &lt;br&gt; 0 % reduction while accelerating or coasting|| [[Saand_Car_idle_reduction_results|Saand results]]
|}
 

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==

Reduction of engine idle may result in increased engine wear as less oil is pumped at lower RPMs for cars with oil pumps powered directly from the engine.
 
The car can stall at a low idle, which is a higher risk as the idle is reduced lower from the factory set idle.
 
== References ==

=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-car-idle-reduction-14474.html Forum thread for discussion about this wiki page]
 
=== External links ===</text>
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  <title>Cold Air and Ram Air</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
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    <id>51</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:36:06Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "This page is for diesel mods.   [[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] '''Introduction'''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2507" xml:space="preserve">This page is for diesel mods. 

[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This is your guide to using cold air or rammed air to better the fuel economy on N/A diesels and turbodiesels.&lt;br&gt;
This does not apply to gassers.

== Instructions for mod ==
You have 3 choices to do this mod. &lt;br&gt;
1 Make every thing your self using PVC, rubber sewer line couplers, HVAC ducting or anything you find. &lt;br&gt;
2 Buy a bolt on ram air or cold air intake, this will reduce cutting holes in your vehicle and fabricating to the bare minimum. &lt;br&gt;
3 Or use some mix of those 2, find parts that almost fit and use a little fabrication to make them fit.

If you can swap in or fabricate a larger air cleaner that uses a larger filter element than what the vehicle originally had installed that almost always helps too.

== User experiences  ==
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Diesel_Dave || Dodge Ram 2500 || $15 || 4 Hour || ||  || +1% to +2% || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-ram-cold-air-intake-3rd-gen-ctd-22770.html]]
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || Chevy suburban C10 || $25 || 3 Hour || 21 || 23 || +9% || [http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98777&amp;highlight= Non-turbo diesel RamAir]
|}
&lt;br&gt;
- The suburban N/A air cleaner was fully redesigned, 50% larger air filter element used, opened up the narrowest part of the air intake system from a 2x4 inch opening to 4x4 inch opening and the engine went from breathing in hot under hood air to cold rammed air. This is a good example of what happens when you replace a very poor OEM design with a good hand fabricated one.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
It may be possible to pick up more water and dirt with a ram air inlet that is close to the road surface.
If the ram air inlet is near the head light it will tend to draw in more bugs.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-ram-cold-air-intake-3rd-gen-ctd-22770.html DIY ram cold air intake]

=== External links ===
[http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98777&amp;highlight= Oilpan4's Pre-turbo days]

=== Supporting papers ===
[http://www.icrepq.com/ICREPQ'09/504-mamat.pdf Intake restriction reduces a diesels power, fuel economy and increases emissions]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Cold Start idle reduction</title>
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  <id>51</id>
  <revision>
    <id>52</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:37:22Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ColdIdle.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Car..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="3029" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ColdIdle.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Cars when started cold can have a high idle level. This means high RPMs and high fuel usage.

The high idle is designed into the cars to warm up the engine quickly and to ensure that the car doesn't stall out while the oil is cold and thick. 

If your car has a high idle when it starts up cold and you want a more efficient car and you don't mind the risk of stalling or increased engine wear this mod is for you.


== Instructions for mod ==
Cars will set the volume of fuel used by attempting to match the amount of air that feeds into the engine so the modification is performed by reducing the air that flows into the engine while the car is cold.
[[Image:IdleControlValve.JPG|right|300px|Frame|]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

Depending on the car type there are different ways to perform this mod.

For a car with an older style thermomechanical idle device &lt;br&gt;

- Locate the idle control module (next to the air inlet manifold)&lt;br&gt;


[[Image:IdleControlValveRemoved.JPG|right|300px|Frame|]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;


- Remove the idle control module (if the idle control module is to be removed completely from the car the radiator may need to be drained and the coolant pipes may need to be removed)&lt;br&gt;


[[Image:IdleControlValveBlocked.JPG|right|300px|Frame|]]&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;


- Locate the channel which feeds the thermomechanical idle control device&lt;br&gt;
- Install something (maybe a sheet of metal from a drink can with a few holes so there is a little extra air when idling) to reduce the air flow that can flow through this channel&lt;br&gt;


[[Image:ColdIdleBeforeAfter.JPG|right|thumb|600px|Frame|Fuel usage at cold start before and after mod]]


- Reinstall the idle control module (which may sandwich and hold the flow restricting metal)&lt;br&gt;
- Test the car can start and idle when cold, if the RPM is too low when cold turn off the engine, remove the restricting metal and poke holes in it until the idle level is sufficient.&lt;br&gt;


== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $0 || 1 Hour || 0.369 L Fuel used over 850 seconds from start up || 0.259 L Fuel used over 850 seconds from start up || 0.108 L max saved every cold start|| 
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Engine stalling or a very low idle.
- Low idle while in drive may cause the engine to stall to avoid this double pedaling may be required.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/disconnected-idle-air-control-lower-rpm-after-cold-618.html Disconnected Idle Air Control - for lower RPM after a cold start]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Economy camshaft swap</title>
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  <revision>
    <id>53</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:38:01Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:CamShaft.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Eco..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="1899" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:CamShaft.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Economy camshafts are the opposite of "hot" cams favoured by racers. But rather than aiming to increase high RPM performance, economy cams are cut to enhance efficiency at lower engine speeds where ecodrivers tend to drive.

"Cool" cams may have lower lift, duration and more advanced timing than regular cams, resulting in more low end torque at the expense of high end power.

The Geo Metro XFi had a factory economy cam, and owners of garden variety Metros regularly swap it in place of the standard one.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/blackfly-xfi-cam-swap-update-swap-completed-102.html Blackfly XFi? Cam swap!]

=== External links ===
[http://metrompg.com/posts/xfi-cam-swap.htm International heart transplant: the Blackfly gets an XFi cam ]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Engine kill switch</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>53</id>
  <revision>
    <id>54</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:38:40Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:EngineKillSwitch.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="3148" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:EngineKillSwitch.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Saves your ignition swith from many cycles. It can also make Pulse and Glide and Engine-Off Coasting(EOC) driving techniques easier to perform.

On some vehicles using the ISO OBD-II protocol (e.g. 1996 and up Geo Metro), switching the ignition off and back on again via the key will cause a ScanGauge to stop recording speed/distance until the unit reboots, which can take some time. A kill switch enables the engine to be stopped without interrupting power to the ScanGauge for uninterrupted data and more accurate readings.

== Instructions for mod ==

'''For fuel injected cars:'''
Things to test first whick modification is for you:
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Start the car.
&lt;BR&gt;2. If you can find a camshaft sensor in your car, unplug that. If engine dies, skip next step.
&lt;BR&gt;3. If you can find a hall-sensor in your car (Near distributor), unplug that. If engine dies, good.
&lt;BR&gt;4. Cut the signal wire from that connector, and pull it to cabin with two-wire cable, and insert NC switch(Normal Closed).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If you can't find neither of these, follow this:
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
Look up your car's wiring schematics and find the fuel injector signal wire. Cut this wire and insert a NC (normal closed) relay. Wire up a switch within easy reach that will open the relay. This cuts power to the fuel injectors and the engine dies. 

Things to watch out for:
1. Cut the wire in a place that you can reattach if needed.
2. Use barrel type connectors on the wire you snip so that you can reattach quickly if needed.
3. Watch out for error codes, you should not get any if you snip the right wire.      

'''Other types of cars:'''

You can interrupt other signals.

== Using the switch ==

Ok, so you are ready to use this switch.
&lt;BR&gt;1. Press and hold the clutch down.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Press and hold the switch, until you know that the engine has stopped. Now you can release it.
&lt;BR&gt;3. When you have rolled enough, release the clutch, and immediately press it back. Or else the car will slow down too much.
&lt;BR&gt;4. Drive normally or accelerate. Repeat.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
-Poor installation could cause engine to cut off when not intended
&lt;BR&gt;-Battery will run out from heavy use. Drive without power-consuming headlights, or install LEDs. Or alternatively, dont use the switch that much.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/kill-switch-how-4356.html Kill switch - how to (Geo Metro)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/kill-switch-accomplished-4324.html Kill switch accomplished (Chevy Aveo)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/adding-injector-cutoff-scion-xa-14767.html micro switch on the shifter kill switch (XA) ]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/engine-off-coasting-my-matrix-14857-2.html#post199155 micro switch on the shifter kill switch (Matrix)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/kill-switch-5th-gen-honda-civic-12075.html 92-95 Honda Civic kill switch]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Engine swap</title>
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    <id>55</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:43:23Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:EngineSwap.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; S..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="1455" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:EngineSwap.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Smaller engines get better fuel economy. Swap out that 'ol V6 for a 4 cylinder from the same or similar model for a boost in mileage. Also very useful if you can swap a lean burn engine into your favorite Honda vehicle.


Note: Some people have attempted removing of cylinders of larger engines to improve fuel efficiency of an engine without swapping the whole engine.

== Instructions for mod ==
See your workshop instruction manual for best method to remove your existing engine.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Damage to engine, problems with compatibility to existing ECU and other devices

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-dream-crx-2337.html Project: Dream CRX]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Warm air intake</title>
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  <revision>
    <id>56</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:44:05Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:HotAirIntake.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;..."</comment>
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[[Image:HotAirIntake.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Higher intake charge temperature has been found to increase the flame speed, the combustion reaction rate, the uniformity of the fuel-air mixture and reduce the heat transfer rate though the cylinder walls. This all adds up to the engine using more heat for physical movement and less being wasted.

The downside to this is that hotter air also tends to retard ignition timing and cause engine pinging. Different engines will react differently to warm air intakes and testing will need to be done to see if it will work for your specific vehicle. Saturns are known to react well to warm air intakes. 

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $0 || 2 Mins ||  ||  ||Not tested. I only removed a hose so my ICE take warmer air instead of exterior fresh air. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis WAI]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==

If your engine temp is too high because of the WAI or the HAI, this could damage it.

Not recomended for diesels unless operated in very cold weather.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/hot-air-intakes-7602.html Hot Air Intakes.. ]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/what-best-intake-temp-hot-cold-22064.html

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diesel-air-intake-warm-not-21502.html Diesel air intake warm or not]

=== External links ===</text>
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  <title>Increased compression ratio</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>56</id>
  <revision>
    <id>57</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:44:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:CompressionRatio.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="2489" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:CompressionRatio.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Increasing compression increases the efficiency of an engine with all else being equal. However, this requires a head gasket swap, head shaving, block shaving, or new pistons. It's an involved process, but if you have the engine apart already its worth looking into. 

== Instructions for mod ==
How increase compression&lt;br&gt;
Increase engine displacement. By boring or sleeving the block, or stroking the engine (increasing distance of the piston stroke).&lt;br&gt;
Decreasing combustion chamber volume. Changing cylinder heads to ones that have a smaller combustion chamber, Switching to pistons that are flat or slightly domed. This is the most effective way to increase compression ratio.&lt;br&gt;

''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Increasing compression by a full number normally results in up to a 1.4% increase in engine efficiency.&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

You can figure how much pressure your engine will develope on the compression stroke with a simple formulia.
p = PxCR^r (pressure times compression ratio to the power of 1.4)

p = compression pressure

P = 1 atmosphere in most cases

CR = compression ratio number

r = specific heat ratio for working fluid, for air this is 7/5 or 1.4

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Increasing compression can lead to knock with lower grade gas and may require a higher octane to prevent this.

''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]

=== External links ===
[http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0606em_understanding_compression_ratio/photo_06.html popularhotrodding article on compression ratio]</text>
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  <title>Lean burn</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
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  <revision>
    <id>58</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:45:43Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Lean burn systems are desig..."</comment>
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[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Lean burn systems are designed into several cars, particularly the Honda Civic. Cars that do not have lean burn systems can be modified to run in a lean burn state. &lt;br&gt; 
Any carbureted vehicle can be tuned for lean burn with the use of that carburetors tuning kit a wide band oxygen sensing meter.  &lt;br&gt;
The benefit of lean burn is that because more air is being used by the engine the throttle opens more which reduces the vacuum generated and therefore reduces the energy used to produce the vacuum. The other benefit is that more of the fuel is burnt when excess air is present in the combustion chamber&lt;br&gt;
Small piston driven air craft also run adjust on the fly carburetors that allow for lean burn while at cruise altitude and speed. Pilots claim a fuel economy improvement of around 20% with lean burn.

Note: Lean burn cars typically have special type of catalytic converter which reduce NOx even when non stoichiometric fuel ratios are used.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
For Carbureted vehicle: Install a wide band oxygen sensor meter first and drive around establishing a MPG base if you don't already have one and make note of air fuel ratios and typical driving conditions. &lt;br&gt;
If you attempt to run a lean burn tune with out a wide band oxygen sensing meter engine damage could result, mainly burned exhaust valves. &lt;br&gt;
Then once you have your base line established start tuning from there. Fuel metering rate can sometimes be adjusted with a metering screw, but usually requires swapping out metering rods or metering jets. &lt;br&gt;
Tune the carburetor to idle around 16:1 to 17:1 air fuel ratio. Then while driving down the road tune for around 15:1 to 17:1 with a target of 16:1 for cruising at speed. While accelerating try to tune for 14:1 air fuel ratio plus or minus 1. The closer to 14:1 the better. Then for wide open throttle tune air fuel for as close to 13:1 air fuel ratio as possible. &lt;br&gt;
As far as how to lean burn a fuel injection system goes each type of engine control system has its own specific way.&lt;br&gt; 
All most all OBDI and early OBD2 vehicles are designed to specifically to avoid ever running in any lean burn condition. &lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| Oil Pan 4 || 1984 Chevy suburban 454 || $300 USD || 8 Hour || 6.55mpg || 10.1mpg || 54% || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fuel-economy-7-4l-454-powered-3-4-a-31602-3.html Lean burn 7.4L]|[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Wide_band_Oxygen_sensor_with_gauge Wide band oxygen meter]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If you run lean burn when trying to accelerate or at wide open throttle you can burn exhaust valves and cause engine misfire.

== References ==

=== Prerequisite mods ===
[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Wide_band_Oxygen_sensor_with_gauge Wide band oxygen meter]

=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/autospeed-running-lean-fuel-economy-4376.html AutoSpeed on running lean for fuel economy]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/converting-cali-civic-vx-fed-lean-burn-vx-7295.html Converting Cali Civic VX to Fed (lean burn) VX]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-does-lean-burn-actually-save-fuel-15678.html How does Lean-burn actually save fuel]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fuel-economy-7-4l-454-powered-3-4-a-31602-3.html Lean burn on my 454 suburban] (6.5mpg running rich then tuned to lean burn seeing a 4mpg improvement)

=== External links ===
[http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110767/article.html Autospeed, great info on O2 sensors, open/closed loop and adjusting air fuel ratio]

[http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0510ht_fuel_economy_tuning/index.html Tuning for Fuel Economy]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Synthetic oil</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>58</id>
  <revision>
    <id>59</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:46:15Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SyntheticOil.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2038" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SyntheticOil.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The idea here is that synthetic oil has less friction, thus lowering the work done by the engine and transmission (if you swap that out too). It can also help your car start faster in cold weather and warm up faster. 

== Instructions for mod ==
At your regular oil or transmission change, put the proper synthetic oil in. 

See your owners manual.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota Matrix, 2006 || $10 more then regular oil || no extra time ||  ||  || Under 1%. In the winter it helped my car start &amp; warm up about 15% faster. Not noticeable MPG gain for me || 
|-
|kir_kenix || 1997 Chevy s10 2.2 || $10 || no extra time || 24 || 24.5 || I switched engine and differentail fluid to synthetic at the same time, so no hard data on oil alone.  +.5mpg between both || 
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $32 || 20 Mins ||  ||  || Not tested. Engine is working better when cold. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Dyno juice to Syntec]
|}


The national research council found that Low Viscosity Lubricants (synthetics act like lower viscosity) could get a .5% MPG gain for $6 to implement. This gain covers both engine and transmission oil.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===


=== External links ===
[http://green.autoblog.com/2010/08/25/at-witz-end-comparing-costs-and-benefits-of-fuel-saving-techn/ national research council test data]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Lowest viscosity engine oil</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>59</id>
  <revision>
    <id>60</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:46:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SyntheticOil.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1759" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Mechanical|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SyntheticOil.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Thinner oil decreases internal resistance that the engine must overcome. This leaves you with a bit better fuel economy and power. 

== Instructions for mod ==
Look up the oil viscosities and temperature list for your engine. It can be found in your vehicle owners manual or on the internet. 
The thinnest oils will likely be full synthetic or synthetic blend.
Ensure the correct oil filter is used when changing oil.
Replace the plastic washer on your oil drain plug (if equipped). Do not cross thread or over tighten the oil drain plug.
Lastly refill your engine with the proper number of quarts or litres, recheck the oil level after the vehicle has been ran and left over night.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Gapless top piston rings</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>60</id>
  <revision>
    <id>61</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:47:23Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Gaplesspiston.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Gapless piston rings]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This modification is about al..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2593" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Gaplesspiston.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Gapless piston rings]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This modification is about almost completely removing compression and combustion blow by caused by standard piston rings.&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
This modification can be done to any widely used piston engine, carburated or fuel injected, past or present. The best time to preform this modification is during an engine rebuild. Any one attempting to do this will need to have a brand new engine block or have there old engine block bored and honed by a machine shop to an "over size" or "over bore" normally used on that engine type. Common SAE over sizes are +0.02'', +0.03'' and +0.04''. The most common Metric over sizes are +0.5mm, +0.75mm and +1mm.
Over sized pistons will be required too.&lt;br&gt;
Contact a "Total Seal Piston Rings" dealer for sizes and application.

== User experiences  ==
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| oil pan 4|| none || between $10 and $30 per cylinder|| 4 to 16 hours || N/A || N/A || The 3% dyno proven boost could mean a 1 to 2 mpg boost depending on base FE || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
The side effect of any over sized cylinder bore will cause a slight increase in compression ratio. This coupled with the slight increase in dynamic compression ratio from reduced cylinder leak down during the compression stroke may require a small ignition timing adjustment to be made.&lt;br&gt;
After running on the street for many hours and miles engines with gapless rings tend to see these ring gaps realign. Engine builders do not recommend gapless rings for street use. People who ignore this advice tend to end up with engines that burn oil. Most street drivers using gapless rings claim they will not use them again. Instead opting for standard file fitted rings, where piston ring gaps are custom filed to the minimum recommended gap for each cylinder. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

=== External links ===
[http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/84732/how_piston_rings_affect_horsepower.aspx about piston rings]

[http://www.strokerengine.com/page/page/1213070.htm See test #35]

[http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0301_dyno_performance_piston_ring_test/index.html The main event: dyno performance piston ring test]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Turbo charging</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>61</id>
  <revision>
    <id>62</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:47:52Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; According to Holset: "A tur..."</comment>
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[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
According to Holset: "A turbocharger is a mechanical device which uses the engine’s exhaust gases to force more air into the engine
cylinders. Hot exhaust gas energy is used to turn a turbine wheel and shaft. At the other end of the shaft is the
compressor impeller (or compressor wheel), which draws in air and forces it into the engine cylinders. &lt;br&gt;
Supplying increased air mass flow to the engine provides improved engine performance, lower exhaust smoke
density, improved operating economy and altitude compensation. The turbocharger has proven to be one of the
most beneficial devices for improving engine performance".&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
To start down this long road the best thing you can do is do some internet searching and see if other people are having good results to turbo charging a vehicle like yours.
If your engine and drivetrain have the room to install a turbo charger and all the piping that goes with it and your drive train is able to handle the added power then you can get started.
If you happen to have a vehicle that is commonly turbocharged by gear heads or has a factory turbo option, finding the parts and basic info you will need will be a lot easier.

Turbocharger kits:
There are a lot of premade after market kits out there. Most of the time these are going to be put together with power in mind and above all else. These aftermarket manufactures can give you a good starting point and a source for many non factory parts.

Turbocharger take offs:
If you are lucky you may have the option to get a used and very cheap factory turbo charger set up for your vehicle out of something at a near by junk yard. You may be able to use some or all of the parts that fit your vehicle. It could make a very good starting point.
Factory turbochargers are usually set up to maximize all around drive ability and durability, more inline with the goals of an ecomodder.

Turbocharger ecomodding:
For a diesel this is not hard to do. If you can attach a turbo charger roughly the correct size to a diesel engine you will have no problem seeing an improvement.
The gasoline engine is a little different. Too big and the turbo charger will just act as a restriction when trying to cruise down the high way. If you size your turbo too small it will not run efficiently at cruise and with too small of a turbine housing will act as a restriction when under load.
Most turbo upgrade applications will require people to lower there compression ratio. The eccomodder turbo install would be on the mild performance side of things and likely would not require a change in compression ratio unless your engine ran unusually high compression from the factory. See the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Increased_compression_ratio compression ratio wiki] for reasons why you may want to try and retain a higher compression ratio.
Ecoturbocharging will likely require some minimal fuel system upgrades if the modder is able to control him or her self concerning horsepower levels.

== User experiences  ==
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! Driving conditions !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|oil pan 4 || 1984 chevy diesel suburban || $1600 total || 40+hr || all highway, pulling trailer || 21mpg highway || 25mpg highway || About 15% || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|-
|oil pan 4 || same || same || same || Mixed city driving || 16.2 || 18.8 || 12% || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Your engine performance will be greatly impacted by turbocharging. Most of it good, but not with out a few problems.
As your boost increases and more fuel is dumped into the engine and you need to have a way to retard the ignition timing on gassers (a diesel engine does not care). When mounting the intercooler it may block air flow to the radiator. The added power and obstructive intercooler may require you to install a larger radiator and upgrade the engine cooling system.
When a turbo is installed on a gas engine normally people will need to switch to premium gas, a diesel enigne will still run fine off the same fuel as before.
The turbocharger hot side piping can cause wires and lines to burn if not protected or relocated.
Turbochargers require oil. You will need to run a pressurized line from the engine to the turbo and install a return line to the oil pan.
All too often turbocharging requires the vehicles battery to be relocated or some times the A/C system needs to be removed to make room for the added piping.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/high-mpg-work-truck-18187.html oil pan 4's high MPG hauler]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/project-iron-pig-my-1996-land-cruiser-diesel-18434.html 1996 diesel land cruiser, goes twin turbo]

=== External links ===
[http://autospeed.com/cms/A_109931/article.html turbo'd for fuel economy]

[http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4674180#post4674180 N/A to turbo diesel trucks MPG improvement]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Water injection</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>62</id>
  <revision>
    <id>63</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T21:48:22Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Waterinjection.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Water Injection Diagram]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; It is called WMI for shor..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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[[Image:Waterinjection.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Water Injection Diagram]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
It is called WMI for short, it can stand for Water Mist Injection or Water Methanol Injection. &lt;br&gt;
Premixed water-methanol can be sourced from using wind shield washer fluid. &lt;br&gt;
This ecomod is all about using water and water-methanol injection to increase fuel economy and performance.&lt;br&gt;
This is not a "run your engine off water" scam or one of those scams that works by using engine manifold vacuum to draw water into the intake, water needs to be injected into the intake with force and turned into fine droplets.
All the proven and best documented gains are had on diesel engines. &lt;br&gt;
Gasoline engines have not seen much in the way of economy gains with water injection. So if have a gas burner you will want to look some where else to pick up more MPGs.

== Application ==
There are 2 ways to use water injection. Direct and indirect. This entire wiki is about direct water injection application, until now.&lt;br&gt;
With direct injection of liquid to the intake stream you want to position the water nozzle in a way that will remove the possibility of water being able to pool some where in the intake piping.&lt;br&gt;
When injecting water into the intake air remember less is more. A large V8 diesel engine will need no more than a 1GPH@100psi nozzle ran at well under 100 psi when cruising down the road. Momentarily running full boost you can use up to a 5GPH@100psi nozzle set to switch on above 10psi of boost.&lt;br&gt;
If you would like to run external water injection it is possible to reduce intake air charge by applying water to the surface of your intercooler during hill climbing on hot days or when merging into highway traffic, especially when pulling a trailer. For indirect application use large water injection nozzles. For this application more is more. Running too little water will allow the water to evaporate leaving behind scale build up on your intercooler. This is not meant to be ran continuous. Use your 7GMP@100psi and larger nozzles for this. This can be the simplest of water injection setups, it can be as simple as a manually switched pump hooked straight up to a sprayer nozzle, no need to use a regulator, pressure switches or control solenoids, if water leaks out of this nozzle it just goes on the ground.

== Instructions for mod ==
The key to water injection is to introduce the water or water alcohol mix to the intake air stream as a mist.
There are 2 ways to install this mod.
You can buy a pre-made kit ($500 and up) or put a simple setup together your self (around $200). One problem with the pre-made kits is you have to put down at least $800-$900 to get something that can continiously spary.

The main items you will need are:

Water tank, for occasional use the wind shield washer fluid tank could work, but if you want continious spary you will need to put a big tank or tanks some where.

Pump, by far nearly every one who runs WMI uses some type of 12 volt shurflo diaphragm pump or a copy of one. For an external set up that sprays water on to your inter cooler a $20 wind shield washer pump will work (part number 11-510 moves 4 to 6 L/min at low pressure).

Nozzles, Rated water mist nozzles are a must for properly introducing the correct amout of water mist into the intake, most are rated in Gallons per Hour at 100psi.

Water line, 1/4 inch nylon sprinkler line* with "push in fittings" seems to be the standard for getting water from point A to B, upgrading to 1/4'' air line hose rated for 300psi might not be a bad idea.

Water solenoid, electricly operated valve used to control water flow to different nozzles.

Optional parts:

A small water pressure accumulator used in small RV/marine fresh water plumbing, adding one of these to your system will stabilize pressures, prolong pump and switch life. Most hold less than 2L of water and are rated for up to 125psi.

Water pressure regulator, this will allow you to fine tune your system. A boost pressure referenced water regulator would be even better(since there is no standard application for this and no one makes them you will have to build one by modifing a standard water pressure regulator with a manifold pressure air line sending air pressure to the spring side of the houseing this will provide a nearly 1 for 1 boost to water pressure increase).

Water tank low level float switch will let you know when water is getting low. Such as an aquarium level float switch.

*Note: under hood temperatures can cause nylon sprinkler tube and push fittings to fail.
*Alcohol: Running alcohol on a continious spary system you will want to water it down to about 10% or less. For power 30% (0'F freezing protection) or 40% (-20'F freeze protection) alcohol can be had anywhere for $2/gal and will work well.

Highly recomended parts:

Use Polyurethane instead of nylon lines. Do not use soft PVC.

A water filter.

A water pressure relief valve (an air compressor relief valve will work fine for this)

== Methanol mixing ==
Unless you are willing to buy large amounts of industrial grade methanol at one time and mixing it you will be stuck sourcing it from wind shield washer fluid.
You need an alcohol hydrometer to do this consistently. You will want a 5 inch 0-40% scaled unit because on a standard 5 inch 0-100% scale the 10-40% range is hard to read because the lines are tightly packed together. The bad news is all the alcohol hydrometers you find are calibrated for ethanol/water mixtures, the good news is the density difference between methanol and ethanol is about 1% and the lower the alcohol mixture the more accurate the reading will be.
One of the problems encountered with buying the blue stuff is poor product consistency. For example, "-20F freeze protected" wind shield washer fluid should be 40% methanol, right?
I have dunked my hydrometer into various brands that should have been "40%" and have found so far that they range from 36% alcohol to 42%. No surprise the 36% sample came from walmart.
The 42% sample that almost sank my hydrometer was made by "camco" in NC.

All wind sheild washer fluids are not created equal.

== Other possibilities and considerations ==
It may be possible to delete your factory wind shield washer system and run it straight off the water injection system. If the factory system quits or if you want more wind shield washer power.

With the possibility of having a very large water tank adding lots of weight you may want to set up a way to dump water. Remember water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! Trailer Pulling MPG Before Mod !! Trailer pulling MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|oil pan 4 || diesel suburban || $240 || 8hr || 19 || 20 || 4% || 
|}
This is the beta test version with one mist nozzle, using water only.
Note: Fuel mile age and power will increase with higher alcohol content.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If you use too much water you will get "flame out" in cylinders as they load up with water, this means you are using too much and need to dial it back a bit or turn off your water system and adjust pressure or change nozzles. Using some methanol or adding more methanol could help with the flame out problem caused by too much water.
If a user built WMI system isn't properly built, such as to allow the water to continue to be injected with the engine off this could cause plenty of problems.

In diesels WMI (water mist) has been proven to increase power and fuel economy, decrease NOx levels and causes the engine to run a little cooler. 

Diesels with WMI (water methanol) can see a massive power increase, a very sharp increase in fuel economy because methanol is burned as fuel, reduced NOx, reduced diesel particle matter out put (see the dieselpowermag.com external link) and it can help the engine run cooler on hot days.

One problem with the low dollar approch was discovered over on dieselplace.com, during the summer one of their members had all his nylon water feed tube lines burst due to underhood temperatures on a hot summer day.

I discovered an unseen problem when kitchen sink testing the components I plan on using to build my own water mist injection system. I am using the popular 1gph 60psi surflo pump that is very common in these DIY builds. The problem was these pumps have a built in switch that rapidly cycles them on and off as the water pressure builds and falls, this will ruin the switch over time. The on/off pressure swing is at least 30psi, this on/off pressure swing can change the amount of water being injected by up to 50% from one second to the next. To remove this pressure swing problem I bought a .65L jabsco RV/marine water pressure accumulator tank and a used water pressure regulator. The use of the accumulator tank will also prolong the life of the water pumps pressure switch and the water pressure regulator will make the water injection very consistent.
Using the seeming very small .65L jabsco pressure accumulator (charged with 15psi of air in the bladder) to supply a 3gph@100psi nozzle with 60psi of rock solid consistant pressure causes a 1gpm surflow pump (set to cut off at about 90psi) will run for about 5 seconds on and remain off for about 30 seconds. 

One problem most of us cant avoid is winter. You will need to be able to remove your water injection system, blow all the water out with compressed air or use some kind of antifreeze to keep water from freezing and cracking everything. The best thing to use is camper/RV plumbing antifreeze(propylene glycol) or wind shield washer fluid (methanol) just make sure all of your parts can handle being in contact with methanol. Camper/RV water pumps, RV pressure accumulators, agricultural spray pumps are resistant to these common winterization techniques. 
 
Another serious possible problem/consequence is accidental hydrolock and costly engine damage. It is possible to inadvertently fill a cylinder or cylinders with water/methanol, and then bend or break engine components at start up. Hydrolock damage is often severe or catastrophic.
This can be done with a runaway pump with the key on, while doing other work, or with a tank that is positioned above the cylinders or intake manifold.
Positioning the tank below the intake and engine will prevent siphoning, and using a relay that is not on unless the engine is running will mitigate the runanway pump problems.

== Theory ==
The Theory behind water injecton improving power out put and fuel economy at least in diesel and brayton or combind cycle heat engines is based on enhancing the second law of thermodynamics. Water evaporation makes the cold half of your heat reservoir colder with very minimal energy, cost or effort input from the owner/operator.
Usually all the focus is put on making the hot side hotter. The problem with that is more heat just about always means you have to burn more fuel which is no good for fuel economy or the excess heat strains, weakens or breaks down engine system materials and chemical compounds.
A heat engines power and efficiency is based off the temperature differential between the hot and cold thermal reservoirs. Water injection enhances a systems measurable heat transfer.

== Effects of Methanol and Water/Methanol on diesel engine ignition delay ==
According to SAE (in the snow video) pure methanol can delay ignition timing by 2 degrees, a 50/50 mix of water/methanol when injected at 20% of the rate of fuel consumption can delay ignition by 4 degrees.
Diesels owners may want to consider advancing their timing by a few degrees to compensate for this. &lt;br&gt;
Newer diesel owners: need to make some computer changes to account for this. &lt;br&gt;
Mechanical injected diesels: find a way to switch on your "cold advance" when water/methanol is running, which is good for 3 to 4 degrees advance on DB2 serries pumps. &lt;br&gt;

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/intake-manifold-injection-16172.html Intake manifold injection]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/180860-post10.html  water injection cooling numbers]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-water-injection-1066.html DIY water injection]

=== External links ===
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nn9LxE3KU_4&amp;feature=player_embedded Snow demos SAE study showing a roughly 2 degree ignition delay when water methanol is used on a diesel]

[http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=422137 dieselplace.com water injection tests]

[http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456183 Dieselplace.com DIY Water/Meth systems]

[http://www.files.thinksitout.com/Alt_Fuel_Testers/Testing%20Water%20Injection%20in%20a%20Gasoline%20Engine.pdf Water drip induction on a gas powered generator running under load]

[http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/1108dp_the_science_of_diesel_emissions_reduction/index.html dieselpowermag dot com water injection on a cummins diesel]

[http://papers.sae.org/2001-01-3259/ SAE link]

[http://papers.sae.org/2009-01-1439/ Another SAE link]

[http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/resources/docs/SwirlFlash_WI.pdf Water injection on gas turbine efficiency and NOx redux]

[http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/1105dp_water_injection_or_intercooler Water injection for cooling]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skuIkE93TR8&amp;feature=youtu.be Scuderi Group and water injection]

[http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?547052-Methanol-water-injection-pre-turbo Injecting preturbo]

[http://www.enginehistory.org/Frank%20WalkerWeb1.pdf WWII water methanol injection history on turbosuper charged gasoline engines]

[http://pubs.usgs.gov/bul/0392/report.pdf 1909 Department of Interior report on alcohol use in gasoline engines (mentions water injection pg8) ]

=== Awsome external links ===
[http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html RSR water injection calculator]

=== Links for buying water injection system parts ===
[http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=706&amp;clickid=popcorn Shop for water injection tanks from USplastics.com]

[http://www.hydro-gardens.com/mistingnozzles.htm Very cheap lower pressure garden mist nozzles]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>AC delete</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>63</id>
  <revision>
    <id>64</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T22:26:02Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AC_Delete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; By..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2255" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AC_Delete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
By removing the A/C you easily cut 50 pounds of weight from the car, reduce parasitic belt &amp; pulley losses when the system isn't being used, and free up some space in the engine bay for work.

There are alternatives out there for keeping cool without A/C:

Some ecomodders have also suggested they can get better A/C efficiency by insulating the cold pipes from their A/C compressors which means the A/C can run less.

== Instructions for mod ==
Depending on belt arrangement of a car the AC belt can just be removed however the alternator is often on the same belt which makes the modification difficult.

In the event the AC belt is shared with only the power steering pump a dual modification of AC delete and manual steering could be considered for large easy gains

In the event that the AC shares a belt with something that is still required and the AC pump provided the belt tensioning function for that belt this mod may not be for you. The AC pump often has a clutch so little gains will be achieved as a tensioning wheel will be required which will have similar parasitic losses.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Kir_kenix || 1997 Chevy s10 2.2 || $30 (Dorman pn#34197|| 30 minutes|| 23 || 24 || || 
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Warmer in summery months

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/blog/who-needs-air-conditioning-when-youve-got-ice-cold-water-running-through-your-shirt/ Who Needs Air Conditioning When You’ve Got Ice-Cold Water Running Through Your Shirt?]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/replacing-ac-usage-ice-coolers-32359.html Replace AC useage with ice coolers] (it barely does anything to cool you)

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/starting-my-c-seat-project-3884.html Ice water cooled car seat project]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Alternator delete</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>64</id>
  <revision>
    <id>65</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T22:26:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="3374" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Alternator deletes have been shown to increase fuel economy as much as 10%. However, extra deep-cycle batteries (and/or another form of power) must be used as a replacement, and their cost may offset any economic savings of reduced fuel consumption.

That said, if your regular starting battery is in need of replacement anyway, it could be replaced with a good deep-cycle battery for not too much more money.

== Instructions for mod ==
Remove your alternator belt.

Note: you will need some other method of charging your battery for your car to work properly. Such as solar panels and/or externally powered battery charger.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|MetroMPG || Pontiac, Firefly, 1998 || $0 ||  || 70.68 || 78.08 || 7.4 (10.4%) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% MPG gain @ 70 km/h]
|-
|TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL || Neon || $0 ||  || 42.7 || 43.6 || 2.1% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/alternatorless-test-neon-still-disappointing-but-now-w-10990.html Alternatorless Test in a Neon (still disappointing, but now w/slightly better results]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Damage to starting battery if discharged below 20% &lt;br&gt;
- Deep cycle batteries can take 50% discharge &lt;br&gt;
- Lithium batteries can take an 80% discharge &lt;br&gt;
- Car may stall out while driving without energy to fire injectors, spark and run fuel pump&lt;br&gt;
- Some ecomodders have found poor car performance when the alternator is disconnected due to the lower voltage of the battery when the alternator is running

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% gain @ 70 km/h]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/second-bigger-battery-take-load-off-alternator-20008.html Second/bigger battery to take a Load off the Alternator]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/a123-systems-batteries-now-available-purchase-online-23231.html a123 lithium batteries]

=== External links ===
http://www.intechopen.com/books/new-advances-in-vehicular-technology-and-automotive-engineering/power-electronic-solutions-to-improve-the-performance-of-lundell-automotive-alternators

=== External links to battery suppliers ===
http://store.evtv.me/index.php&lt;br&gt;
http://www.batteryspace.com/

=== Complementary, related or prerequisite mods ===
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/AC_delete&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Bigger_battery (&lt;&lt;&lt;must have prereq) &lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Electric_coolant_water_pump&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Mechanical_to_electric_radiator_fan&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/L.E.D_conversion&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Power_steering_delete&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Power_steering_electrohydraulic_conversions</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Alternator Disable Switch</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>65</id>
  <revision>
    <id>66</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-08T22:27:43Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main]]  [[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Alternator deletes have been shown to increase fuel e..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="6298" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main]]

[[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Alternator deletes have been shown to increase fuel economy as much as 10%. Most people are not comfortable removing their alternator completely. This modification allows a driver to charge their battery by taking energy from their drive train only at particular times such as during breaking.

The modification involves using a switch to disable the field winding which in turn stops charging of the battery and reduces energy taken from the engine.&lt;br&gt;
OEMs have adopted this mod to save fuel.
== Instructions for mod ==
Some alternators have a signal going into them which disables or enables the alternator, for those people that have this type of alternator the modification is very easy, simply interrupt that signal and manually set it.

Many cars do not have an alternator with a signal that enables or disables the alternator. The modification to this type of alternator is much more involved. Consult your workshop manual to see if your alternator has a disabling signal input. The only method to disable this type of alternator is to open the alternator and interrupt the wires which power the field winding. The typical method to do this is as follows.

- Remove the alternator from the car, consult your cars workshop for details on how to do this. Make sure you disconnect the battery positive terminal before moving or disconnecting wires from the alternator.&lt;br&gt;

[[Image:AlternatorSeparated1.JPG|right|thumb|300px]]&lt;br&gt;
- With the alternator removed from the car remove the screws which hold the 2 ends of the alternator together.&lt;br&gt;
- The alternator ends should be able to be levered apart, depending on the alternator type the armature windings (windings that remain static and are sandwiched by the 2 ends of the alternator) may be soldered to circuitry that is mounted to one end of the alternator housing. Due to this you should continually check how easy it is to lever the ends apart to ensure no damage is caused to the system. (The original writer of this wiki Saand did not check this and damaged his alternator)&lt;br&gt;
Note: This step will likely result in the rotating center of the alternator to be moved out of bearing housings and brushes to be moved from the normal location. Due to this to reassemble the alternator, the brushes will likely have to be pushed back into place which can be very difficult and may require holes to be drilled for access&lt;br&gt;


[[Image:AlternatorEnd1.JPG|right|thumb|300px]]&lt;br&gt;
- With the alternator housing opened it should be possible to unscrew the alternator control circuitry from the alternator housing. This step should allow access to the brush connecting wires.&lt;br&gt;


[[Image:AlternatorFieldSeparated.JPG|right|thumb|300px]]&lt;br&gt;
- Unsolder one of the brushes connecting wires&lt;br&gt;
Note: The brush connecting wires may be holding the brushes against the springs, disconnection of the brush wires may result in the brushes coming out of their housings.&lt;br&gt;
- Solder 2 long wires, one that connects to where one of the brush wires was connected to, Solder the other wire to the end of the brush wire. Connection and disconnection of these newly soldered wires will disable and enable the alternator.&lt;br&gt;


[[Image:AlternatorWireFeed.JPG|right|thumb|300px]]&lt;br&gt;
- Feed the new wires through the alternator housing and screw the circuitry back onto the alternator housing.&lt;br&gt;
- Cable tie or somehow fix the wires to the alternator housing, this will ensure that any pulling on the new wires will not damage or disconnect the field wires&lt;br&gt;
- Reassemble the alternator housing and rotating shaft, This will likely involve pressing the brushes to their retracted position, while guiding the shaft into its bearing housing. If easy access to the brushes doesn't exist drill a hole in the end of the bearing housing so that a screw driver can gain access to push the bearings back.&lt;br&gt;
- With the shaft and armature almost in position screw the 2 end caps together rotate each screw only one turn at a time, this will pull the 2 ends together evenly, tightening up one screw fully may skew the alignment making it very difficult and may damage the housing. At the end of this step the alternator should be fully reassembled.&lt;br&gt;
- Rotate the shaft and ensure that it spins freely, compare to how it originally rotated.&lt;br&gt;
- Fit the alternator back into the car.&lt;br&gt;
- Turn the engine on and measure the voltage at the battery, the voltage at the battery when the alternator field is enabled it should be 14v or above, when the alternator field is disabled the voltage should be around 12v. If the voltage when the field is enabled isn't around 14v or above the alternator may have been damaged.&lt;br&gt;


Note: Once this modification is finished it is recommended to install some form of voltage measurement device in the cabin so that the driver doesn't deplete the battery unintentionally.

== User experiences  ==
It is strongly recomended that you install an absorbed glass mat deep cycle battery in place of you flooded lead acid battery.&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
| ||  || less than $50 || 1-3 hours ||  ||  || up to 10% || ]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Damage to battery if discharged below 10.8 volts &lt;br&gt;
- Car may stall out while driving without energy to fire injectors, spark and run fuel pump&lt;br&gt;
- Some ecomodders have found poor car performance when the alternator is disconnected or disabled due to the lower voltage of the battery when the alternator is running

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% gain @ 70 km/h]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/battery-mod-not-working-out-18855.html Alternator disable switch]

=== External links ===
http://www.intechopen.com/books/new-advances-in-vehicular-technology-and-automotive-engineering/power-electronic-solutions-to-improve-the-performance-of-lundell-automotive-alternators</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Coolant Heater</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>68</id>
  <revision>
    <id>69</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:14:28Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:5500.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]] Image:universalheater.jpg|rig..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2870" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:5500.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]
[[Image:universalheater.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]

'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The main difference between coolant heaters and block heaters is block heaters go into the engine block and coolant heaters are external.&lt;br&gt;
A Coolant heater can slowly or quickly pre-warm the engine before starting with a 200 to 5,500 watt (electric) or up 20,000BTU/hr for fuel fired.&lt;br&gt; The 2 main categories for coolant heaters are fuel fired (usually diesel) and electric. Electric are usually 120 but can be 240 volt powered.&lt;br&gt; The reduced warm-up time can dramatically improve fuel economy, especially for short trips. &lt;br&gt; Most higher powered coolant heaters need to use some kind of forced circulation.

Fuel fired coolant heaters tend to be the most complicated, expensive, difficult to install and they still burn fuel so they aren't really saving any fuel so we wont really be talking about them.
== Instructions for mod ==
Refer to workshop manual and installation instructions for coolant for installation methods&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || Chevy suburban diesel 84 || $100 USD || 3.5 Hours ||  ||  || FE effect untested. Was able to raise coolant temperature from -2'C to 22'C in 15 minutes with out running the engine || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-3500w-engine-warmer-23893.html 3500 watt universal fit coolant heater]
|-
|}
[[Image:Coolantheater.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- User of electricity to heat car is almost always cleaner than cold starting an ice cold car&lt;br&gt;
- Idle reduction&lt;br&gt;
- Enter the much more efficient closed loop mode sooner.&lt;br&gt;
- Remove frost so you can see, avoid crashing into objects.&lt;br&gt;


=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-3500w-engine-warmer-23893.html Fast warm up ideas, 3500w coolant heater]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-5-500-watt-19-a-32503.html 5,500 watt coolant heater, Just incase 3500w isn't fast enough]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/block-heater-sizing-25512.html Engine block heater sizing]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/850-watt-tank-style-coolant-heater-installed-blackfly-104.html 850 watt tank style heater in a metro]

=== External links ===

=== Related or prerequisite mods ===
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Block_Heater &lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Electric_coolant_water_pump</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Electric coolant water pump</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>69</id>
  <revision>
    <id>70</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:15:04Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:WaterPump.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Aut..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2839" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:WaterPump.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Auto manufacturers are moving towards electric pumps for steering and cooling.

Aftermarket retrofits are available for some engines, though the gains are likely to be had only where they are computer controlled so power use is continually optimized based on engine temperature.

== Instructions for mod ==
Hope there is a aftermarket electric replacement for your application.&lt;br&gt; Then once you decide how to install the water pump you have to figure out what you are going to do with the belt that was driving the pump. Some after market electric water pump kits have an idler on the electric pump. Most of the time you just have to get creative.&lt;br&gt;
Then you have to find a way to wire it up. A key on power supply is best that way you cant forget to turn the pump on or accidently turn it off while driving. It is highly recommended that you use the "key on" power supply to work a relay and have the relay actually power the pump.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- If modification is performed incorrectly this could result in overheating, localised hot spots and therefore engine damage
- Idle reduction, you can use a high power coolant heater to warm the engine while the engine is not running.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-water-pump-3952.html Electric water pump 2]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/diy-electric-water-pump-cheap-29896.html DIY electric water pump]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-water-pump-ewp80-28008.html electric water pump ewp80]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/toyota-corolla-water-pump-what-capacity-electric-version-25767.html Toyota corolla water pump, what capacity electric]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/oem-electric-water-pump-control-strategy-24784.html OEM electric water pump control strategy]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-water-pump-3952.html Electric water pump]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-water-pump-effect-warm-up-times-14849.html electric water pump effect on warm up times]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Mechanical to electric radiator fan</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>70</id>
  <revision>
    <id>71</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:15:41Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ElectricFan.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; C..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="2249" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ElectricFan.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Cars have used on-demand electric radiator fans for decades, but some trucks still have less efficient, belt-driven ones.

Aftermarket kits are available for many models, or you can retrofit a junkyard electric cooling fan from another vehicle.

== Instructions for mod ==
Unbolt the belt driven fan

Mount the electric fan directly to the radiator and connect the power wires to the battery supply

== User experiences  ==
Two users&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|ecoTruck ||  ||  ||  || 10.5% engine load || 9.0% engine load || 14% || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-fan-conversion-worth-my-testing-procedure-15449.html Is an Electric fan conversion worth it? My testing procedure]
|-
| oil pan 4 || 1984 diesel suburban || $140 || 2 days || 19.8 || 22 || +2.2mpg combind city and highway || N/A
|-
| Slow S10 || 1988 S10 || $10 || 1 day || 14.5 || 18 || +3.5MPG or about +20% || N/A
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Electric fans normally do not have the air moving power of a belt driven fan. To many or too much electric fan can drain power from the electrical system and may require an alternator up grade if you have to run the fans a lot.
Engine cranks over faster, runs quieter with out the belt driven fan beating air all the time and the engine warms up 2 to 3 minutes faster for me.
When running 2 or 3 electric fans on a car or truck you dont have one single point of failure such as the thermal clutch.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-vs-belt-driven-cooling-fan-3365.html Electric vs. belt driven cooling fan]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-fan-conversion-worth-my-testing-procedure-15449.html Is an Electric fan conversion worth it? My testing procedure]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/modding-trucks-24024.html Modding the "S" trucks]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Power steering delete</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>71</id>
  <revision>
    <id>72</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:16:22Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:PowerSteering.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="6601" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:PowerSteering.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Hydraulic power steering systems continually pump fluid even when steering assist is not needed. The pump takes engine power to run and reduces efficiency.

Manual racks have no power assist, and electric racks only use electricity when you actually turn the steering wheel. 

Manual steering racks have been used for many decades before power steering so the modification does mean it takes more energy to turn the wheel however the car is still drivable. The extra arm power required to turn the steering wheel wont even be noticed after driving without power steering for a few days.

Note: After this modification steering at a dead stop will be difficult therefore parking style may need to be changed a bit to compensate, slight car movement while turning will make it much easier. Steering is also easier with tires pumped up to higher than normal pressures,

== Instructions for mod ==
[[Image:ssFrontWD.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]
[[Image:SteeringChange.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]
For cars with hydraulically powered steering the best option for drivability and efficiency is an electric rack however the cost is very high. Drivers that are happy to use a little bit of arm strength to turn can use a manual rack which is the easiest, most efficient option and it can be a free conversion.

A hydraulically powered steering rack can be converted to a manual rack within a very small amount of time. Standard manual racks do provide slightly lower force to perform a turn due to the gearing of the rack however the difference is only around 20% gear ratio difference between a hydraulic rack compared to a manual rack. Changing out a steering rack for a manual version can take up to several days and a lot of effort for very little benefit, converting a already installed power steering rack to a manual is relatively easy and will take several hours.


To convert a hydraulic rack to a manual rack the steps are as follows &lt;br&gt;
- Disconnect the hydraulic lines on the power steering rack which go to the power steering pump. Oil is likely to start coming out of the disconnected lines. &lt;br&gt;
- The cylinder on the power steering rack will have a hydraulic port on either end of the rack, disconnect one of these hydraulic lines and allow some hydraulic fluid to drain out so that mostly air will be in the cylinder with a little hydraulic fluid. &lt;br&gt;
- Use the existing hydraulic line connected to the other end of the cylinder and connect it to the port which is now unconnected. The ports on either end of the cylinder should now be connected together. This will allow fluid and air to flow from one side of the cylinder to the other when turning the steering wheel while keeping the hydraulic cylinder a closed system to stop contaminants fouling the cylinder.

Note: Just removing the power steering belt will stop the wasted energy using up fuel however it will cause the steering to be very heavy. For people that want to test how manual steering will feel after modification you must loop the 2 sides of the cylinder on the power steering rack otherwise every turn of the steering wheel will involve forcing hydraulic fluid through lines and back power the power steering pump which will cause much more force to turn the wheel than the proper modification.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $0 || 2 Hours ||  ||  || || 
|-
| Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $0 ||  1 Min ||  ||  || Maybe 1% || Only removed the PS Belt
|-
| Oil Pan 4 || 1984 diesel suburban || $200+ || 6 hours || 24 || 25 || +0.8mpg|| installing a P/S clutch, hydraulic power required for power brakes 
|-
| hondaworkshop || 2000 civic || $0 ||  5 Min ||  ||  || 2MPG || Only removed the PS Belt
|-
| Daschicken || Honda, Accord V6, 2006 || $20 || 2 Hours || || || Less than 1% || Installed shorter accessory belt
|}


I have seen testing data graphs (done by OEM's) of several cars with PS vs e-steer systems. For most cars with hydraulic power steering (PS) changing the system to electric power steering (e-steer) improves the car efficiency by 1-2MPG. This is what 5+ steering engineers explained to me was why the e-steer systems are taking over the market. It adds cost to cars but helps meet the government mandated MPG standards. I saw this data and talked this over with many engineers when I worked at a major steering systems manufacture (located in Saginaw MI). 

--[[User:WeatherSpotter-9828|WeatherSpotter-9828]] 22:23, 7 September 2010 (EDT)

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Turning is more difficult which is mostly felt during manovering while parking, steering difficulty is not noticed after a few days with new steering. &lt;br&gt;
- Turning is not really possible when your vehicle empty weight is near 3 tons. Loaded down and towing, turning at very slow speeds may not be an option with out P/S. &lt;br&gt;
- Hard cornering, even at speed will take noticeably more effort versus with power steering.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/converting-power-steering-electric-power-steering-1100.html Electric Power Steering]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-clutch-power-steering-14952.html A/C compressor clutch on a P/S pump]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/power-steering-delete-fuel-economy-gain-anyone-done-5749.html Power steering delete for fuel economy gain]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/underdrive-power-steering-pump-3523.html reducing power steering pump pressure]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/removed-00-civic-power-steering-belt-got-good-5426.html honda civic P/S disable +2mpg]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-power-steering-pump-conversion-32895.html Electric power steering pump conversion]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electrohydraulic-power-steering-18629.html Electrohydraulic Power Steering]

=== External links ===
[http://www.hydraulicstore.com/clutchpumps.html Hydraulic Store; Clutches for hydraulic PTOs]

[http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ccrp-1304-gm-power-steering-secrets/ Hot Rod magazine; GM power steering serets]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Power steering electrohydraulic conversions</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>72</id>
  <revision>
    <id>73</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:16:54Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:HPU.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|New HPU]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This mod is for those who want to lose the parasitic..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="4562" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:HPU.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|New HPU]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This mod is for those who want to lose the parasitic losses from the power steering system while at speed but need to retain power steering function at low speeds and while in parking lots. &lt;br&gt;

== Hydraulic power requirements ==
Recirculating ball power steering boxes use lower pressure, from 700 to 1,200 psi.&lt;br&gt;
Rack and pinion systems require slightly higher pressure, they tend to start at 1,000 to 1,100psi.&lt;br&gt;
At idle the pumps for both systems provides between 2 to 4 gallons per minute.&lt;br&gt;
At 5,000 RPM older Saginaw pumps can produce 20gpm.

== Instructions for mod ==
There are 2 ways to do this mod.&lt;br&gt;
1, Install a clutch on your power steering pump or get a hydraulic pump with clutch and install it on your accessory drive. &lt;br&gt;
2, Install some kind of hydraulic power unit. &lt;br&gt;
The hydraulic power unit can be a take off from another vehicle or an industrial hydraulic power unit for operating a snow plow or dump bed.&lt;br&gt;

== Clutched pump mod ==
Finding a clutch to fit an existing power steering pump has always proven to be very elusive.&lt;br&gt;
Installing a hydraulic pump with clutch is a sure bet as long as you don't over pressurize the system. An industrial pump with clutch will have standard hydraulic fittings to connect them to a steering box or rack and pinion would not require a lot of creativity.&lt;br&gt;
This is the most effective way to decouple your power steering pump from the engine drive. When the clutch is activated you have full use of the power steering system for an electrical cost of only 4 to 6 amps. But you have a belt running and a big old clutch spinning all the time.
== Electric hydraulic power unit pump mod ==
This is where you remove you your original power steering pump and its belt and replace it with some kind of electric hydraulic power unit.
Draw backs are:&lt;br&gt;
Electric hydraulic power units use 50 to 200 amps of electrical power &lt;br&gt;
You would need to wire in 6 gauge wire at a minimum to the motor wired through a solenoid &lt;br&gt;
These units only provide about half the flow of a standard belt driven pump at idle &lt;br&gt;
The benefits are:&lt;br&gt;
When the Hydraulic power unit is off its not drawing any engine power &lt;br&gt;
You can run the power steering during EOC &lt;br&gt;
The electric hydraulic power units are relatively light weight &lt;br&gt;
You can install them whereever you want &lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name
! Car Make, Model, Year
! Cost of Mod
! Time to Perform Mod
! MPG Before Mod
! MPG After Mod
! MPG improvement guess
! Instruction Link
|-
| Example Data Saand
| Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991
| Example Data $5 USD
| Example Data 1 Hour
| Example Data 27.2
| Example Data 29.8
|
| [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|-
| t vago
| 2001 Dodge Durango
| $350
| 2 Day
| 15.4
| 18.1
| +18%
| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electrohydraulic-power-steering-18629.html EcoModder: Electrohydraulic Power Steering]
|-
| t vago
| 2000 Dodge Dakota
| $300
| 1 Day
| 18.2
| 
| 
| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electrohydraulic-power-steering-18629.html EcoModder: Electrohydraulic Power Steering]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Hydraulic power units for trailer dump beds and electric power steering pumps built for small cars with rack and pinion only provide a fraction of the flow as compared to a pump found in an original equipment a recirculating ball system.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-clutch-power-steering-14952.html Electric clutch power steering]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-power-steering-pump-conversion-32895.html Electric power steering pump conversion]&lt;br&gt;

=== External links ===
[http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ccrp-1304-gm-power-steering-secrets/ Hot Rod magazine; GM power steering serets]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.hydraulicstore.com/clutchpumps.html Hydraulic Store; Clutches for hydraulic PTOs]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/2013/powersteeringmods/ Saginaw power steering pump mods]&lt;br&gt;\
[http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/538585-100-power-steering-yes-you-can-use-column-electric-power-assist-system-epas.html Installing an electric power steering module]

=== Related mods ===
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Bigger_battery</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Regear for lower cruising RPM</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>73</id>
  <revision>
    <id>74</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:18:14Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Regear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3054" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Regear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Lower engine RPM at a set speed means reduced friction losses and increased engine load to maintain a given power output. Higher engine load increases engine efficiency.

Note: This modification is much easier on manual transmissions compared to automatics. There are no reports of automatics being regeared at ecomodder.

A very easy way to improve efficiency with a change in ratio of engine RPM to speed is to install tires with a larger radius.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|MetroMPG || Ponteac Firefly 1997 ||  ||  || 65kph-72.9&lt;br&gt;75kph-64.95&lt;br&gt;85kph-57.9 || 65kph-79.9&lt;br&gt;75kph-70.3&lt;br&gt;85kph-62.85 || 65kph-9.6%&lt;br&gt;75kph-8.2%&lt;br&gt;85kph-8.5%&lt;br&gt;Ave-8.8%|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/metro-taller-transmission-swap-thread-5-efficiency-gain-107-2.html Metro taller transmission swap thread: +5% efficiency gain (taller final drive)]
|-
|Big Dave || 00 F-350 XLT  ||  || Mod= regear || 20 MPG || 23 MPG || 15% (3MPG) data is tank to tank before/after mod || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/taller-top-gear-makes-real-difference-10-a-2748-2.html#post83857]]
|-
|Big Dave || 00 F-350 XLT  || $4000 installed || Mod= add 7th gear (overdrive) || 26.7 MPG || 28.2 MPG || 7% (1.5MPG) ABA testing ||  [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/seventh-gear-13539.html Seventh Gear!]]

|-
|cfg83 ||99 SW2 Wagon  ||$240 ($140 parts, $100 labor) ||  || 41 MPG &lt;br&gt; steady state|| 49 MPG &lt;br&gt; steady state || 20% (at steady speed highway) 21% theoretical gain (steady state highway) from gear ratio change. || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/saturn-s-series-5th-gear-swap-2779.html Saturn S-Series 5th Gear Swap]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Higher RPM required at speed before shifting into new higher gear and therefore lower efficiency at some speeds.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/taller-top-gear-makes-real-difference-10-a-2748.html Taller top gear makes a real difference (10%)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/metro-taller-transmission-swap-thread-5-efficiency-gain-107-2.html Metro taller tranny swap thread: +5% efficiency gain]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/saturn-s-series-5th-gear-swap-2779.html Saturn S-Series 5th Gear Swap]

=== External links ===
[http://www.pansypatrol.com/the-gas-mileage-mod/ Regear how to]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Automatic to manual transmission</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>74</id>
  <revision>
    <id>75</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:18:50Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AutoToManual.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduct..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1704" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AutoToManual.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Manual transmissions provide more efficient acceleration and give greater control of the car to its driver. 


For people that dont want to swap out their whole tranmission they can consider converting their auto to a manumatic which gives manual control of the gear the automatic transmission is in.

[[Manumatic|See automatic transmission manual gear control (Manumatic)]]

== Instructions for mod ==
Find a manual transmission from the same make and model of your car, junk yards are good places to find one.


See your cars workshop manual for removing the transmission and installation of the manual transmission

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
    <sha1>a01918dc5eec29159ef2b96e0e41b4477ab683c4</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Manumatic</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>75</id>
  <revision>
    <id>76</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:19:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Automatic_transmission.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Most ecomodders would not buy a new car..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="7138" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Automatic_transmission.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Most ecomodders would not buy a new car that has an automatic transmission but many people prefer an auto or already have a car that is an auto. In many automatic cars the ECU controls the gear that the transmission is in at any time. People with an automatic transmission can make their car more efficient by manually controlling the gear the car is in making the car shift earlier when accelerating. 

This modification is easier than changing out an automatic for a manual transmission. 

Car makers introduced this type of transmissions in the final decade of the 20th century. Different car manufacturers  have been using a variety of labels for their manumatic transmissions, such as 'tiptronic', 'Geartronic', 'Touchshift', 'Sporttronic', and others.

Performing this modification with the torque converter lock up mod will bring the transmission efficiency much closer to that of a manual.&lt;br&gt;
This modification may not work well if the torque converter remains ECU controlled.

Note: Some of the very new automatic transmissions have been reported to have the same efficiency as manuals.

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-manumatic-manual-control-automatic-transmission-gears-14735.html Thread for discussion on this wiki page]

== Instructions for mod ==
This modification involves taking control of the signals between the ECU and the transmission. There are likely to be 3 solenoids to be controlled depending on how many gears are available. &lt;br&gt;
- An overdrive gear which in most conditions should likely be engaged&lt;br&gt;
- 2 solenoids that work with each other to select the actual gear&lt;br&gt;

Consult a wiring diagram or workshop manual for initial information about electrical connections to the automatic transmission. &lt;br&gt;

Many work shop manuals and wiring diagrams will not have detail about the connections to the automatic transmission and it is very unlikely to detail the voltage levels required for each gear selection. When the transmission solenoid signal wires and voltage levels for each gear can't be found from documentation, perform the following steps to locate the signal wires&lt;br&gt;

[[Image:TransmissionDiagnosis.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Diagnostic LED]]
- Locate the automatic transmission &lt;br&gt;
- Identify all control wires that are connected to the transmission. The wires of interest are likely grouped together on one connector&lt;br&gt;
- Cut a small section of the insulation away from each of the wire.&lt;br&gt;
- For each of the wires solder a wire to the location where insulation was just cut away. Ensure the new soldered wire is long enough to extend into the cabin of the car&lt;br&gt;
- Solder a LED and resistor in series to each of the new wires in the cabin. Connect the other side of the resistor plus LED to 0v which is the most exposed metal in the cabin&lt;br&gt;
- Take the car for a drive. If the correct wires have been found the driver will see the LEDs light up in a particular arrangement for each gear selected. If the LED states do not correlate with any shift changes locate different wires from the transmission and repeat. Note: there can be up to a few second delay between signals changing to a shift change&lt;br&gt; 
- Note down the states of each LED in each gear configuration so that you know the control signals required for each gear when connecting the manual switch.&lt;br&gt;


'''Performing the modification'''&lt;br&gt;
The following modification assumes that the signals found are similar to the signals shown in the following table
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ 
! Gear Selection !! Gear Select Signal Wire 1 !! Gear Select Signal Wire 2 !! Over Drive Signal
|-
|Reverse 1st || 0V || 12V || 12V 
|-
|Neutral || Irrelevant || Irrelevant || Irrelevant 
|-
|Drive 1st || 0V || 12V || 12V 
|-
|Drive 2nd || 12V || 12V || 12V 
|-
|Drive 3rd || 0V || 0V || 12V 
|-
|Drive 4th || 12V || 0V || 12V  
|}
&lt;br&gt;
[[Image:ManualGearControl.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Manual gear selection control]]
- Once the signal wires have been isolated trace them back to the closest location to the cabin which is likely at the ECU.&lt;br&gt;
- Cut the signal wires and solder wires of the suitable gauge (thickness) and length to reach the desired mounting location.&lt;br&gt;
- If the driver wants to be able to select between automatic and manual control a selection switch should be installed. Using a single pole double throw switch (2 position switch) connect the common terminals to the transmission side of the signal wire. Connect the other end of the signal wire (the ECU side) to one of the other switch terminals. The other terminal of the switch will be connected to the manual control signals.&lt;br&gt;
- Using a 2 pole 4 (or above) throw linear or rotary switch, connect the 2 common terminals to the isolating switch or transmission signals. Connect the terminals which will be selected when rotating the switch so that it will give the required voltages for the transmission solenoids when the switch is at the appropriate gear selection &lt;br&gt;
- Using a 2 pole single throw switch connect the overdrive signal to the isolating switch with common connected to the transmission side of the switch and the ECU side connected to one of the terminals. The other terminal would be connected to either 0 or 12v depending on the LED state observed for this signal when the transmission is in overdrive&lt;br&gt;

This arrangement will allow the driver to select between the ECU controlled gear selection and manual gear selection&lt;br&gt;

Note: Most cars will have an ECU which checks the load of the transmission solenoid signals therefore if the ECU "sees" an open circuit it will likely throw errors however the car will likely still work without any issues as long as manual gear selection is used for the remainder of the trip.&lt;br&gt;
Note: Some cars may not have their automatic transmission controlled by the ECU.&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $5 || 4 Hour ||  || Only improvement likely if shifting causing lower RPMs || || 
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Incorrect installation may cause poor gear control&lt;br&gt;
- Going into manual gear control causes the ECU to go into an error mode, car will still drive however going back to automatic gear selection may not work well.&lt;br&gt;
- Shifting into incorrect gears could cause damage to the transmission and the car to stall&lt;br&gt;

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/freezing-slushbox-torque-converter-demand-lockup-switch-10028.html Freezing the Slushbox. Torque Converter on-demand lockup switch]

=== External links ===
[http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2526797 The Free Mod Series: Part VIII Electronic Transmission Controller - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Synthetic axle and wheel bearing lube</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>76</id>
  <revision>
    <id>77</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:20:32Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SyntheticBearingLube.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''I..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1678" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SyntheticBearingLube.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Reduces internal bearing friction leading to less energy being absorbed as heat. Also increases bearing life. Most effective for vehicles driven in cold climates where conventional lubricant viscosity increases as ambient temperatures fall.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]

|-
|kir_kenix || 1997 Chevy s10 2.2 || $7 || no extra time || 26 || 26 || No FE gain noticed. However I do plan on doubling the service interval. || 

|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
-Possible damage to bearings due to lubricant leaking out of bearing or water entering previously sealed bearings

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wheel-bearing-grease-4395.html Wheel bearing grease]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Synthetic transmission oil</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>77</id>
  <revision>
    <id>78</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:20:59Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:TransmissionOil.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introd..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1767" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:TransmissionOil.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
The idea here is that synthetic oil has less friction leading to less energy being absorbed as heat into the oil. It can also help your car start faster in cold weather and warm up faster. Also increases parts life.

This mod is most effective for vehicles in cold climates, since the viscosity of conventional lubricants increases as ambient temperature drops.

== Instructions for mod ==
At your regular transmission oil change, put the proper synthetic oil in.

See your owners manual. 

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota Matrix, 2006 || $10 || 0 ||  ||  ||About 1%. tank to tank (no ABA testing) In the winter it helped my car start &amp; warm up about 15% faster. || 
|}

The national research council found that Low Viscosity Lubricants (synthetics act like lower viscosity) could get a .5% MPG gain for $6 to implement. This gain covers both engine and transmission oil.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
None

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/effect-gear-oil-viscosity-transmission-efficiency-metro-owners-128.html Effect of gear oil viscosity on transmission efficiency]

=== External links ===
[http://green.autoblog.com/2010/08/25/at-witz-end-comparing-costs-and-benefits-of-fuel-saving-techn/ national research council test data]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Torque Converter Lockup</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>78</id>
  <revision>
    <id>79</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:21:25Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]  Image:Torque-converter-cutbox-model-Small.jpg|right|thumb|400p..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5459" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Torque-converter-cutbox-model-Small.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Torque converter cut away]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This mod only applies to cars with automatic transmissions.


The torque converter can provide extra torque and allows the engine and drive shaft to rotate at different speeds. In performing this function the torque converter wastes energy and generates heat. Most if not all torque converters have a lock up ability where the engine shaft and drive shaft can be locked together by way of a friction disc on the outside rim of the torque converter. When they are locked together the transmission acts like a manual transmission and therefore wastes very little energy. The lock up function is often performed by an electrically controlled solenoid which operates a valve allowing transmission fluid to push the TC against the transmission housing.


The ECU will often lock up the torque converter when the car reaches a particular speed and gear but usually only under low load conditions. Ecomodders may prefer to lock up their torque converter at lower speeds and lower gears for better efficiency or to keep locked up while climbing hills or accelerating. In addition to reducing heat losses through the TC, this allows one to keep the engine in a more efficient load/rpm range.


== Instructions for mod ==
'''Method for testing when torque converter is engaged'''&lt;br&gt;
To find out if your torque converter is locking up at any time, when the engine is in gear press the gas pedal down. 

If the torque converter is not locked to the drive shaft the RPMs will rise quickly. 

If the torque converter is locked the RPM's will stay constant until the speed changes no matter how much power you give to the engine.

'''Identifying torque converter lock up signal'''&lt;br&gt;
Consult a wiring diagram or workshop manual. &lt;br&gt;

Many work shop manuals and wiring diagrams will not have detail about the connections to the automatic transmission. When the torque converter signal wire can't be found from documentation, perform the following steps to locate the signal wire&lt;br&gt;

[[Image:TransmissionDiagnosis.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Frame|Diagnostic LED]]
- Locate the automatic transmission &lt;br&gt;
- Identify all control wires that are connected to the transmission&lt;br&gt;
- Cut the insulation away from the wire&lt;br&gt;
- Solder a wire to the exposed wire. Ensure the wire is long enough to extend into the cabin of the car&lt;br&gt;
- Solder a LED and resistor in series to the wire in the cabin. Connect the other side of the resistor plus LED to 0v which is the most exposed metal in the cabin&lt;br&gt;
- Take the car for a drive. If the correct signal wire has been soldered to the LED, it will light up or turn off when the torque converter is engaged. &lt;br&gt;
- If the LED state does not correspond to the torque converter action, locate another signal wire on the transmission and repeat the process.&lt;br&gt;

'''Performing the modification'''&lt;br&gt;
[[Image:TorqueConverterLockup.JPG|right|thumb|300px|Frame|Torque converter switch]]
- Once the torque converter signal has been isolated trace it back to the closest location to the cabin which is likely at the ECU.&lt;br&gt;
- Cut the signal wire and solder wires of the suitable gauge (thickness) and length to reach the desired mounting location.&lt;br&gt;
- Using a single pole double throw switch (2 position switch) connect the common terminal to the transmission side of the signal wire. Connect the other end of the signal wire (the ECU side) to one of the other switch terminals. Connect a 12v signal or 0v to the other terminal of the switch (12v if the LED turned on when TC locked or 0v if LED turned off when TC locked).&lt;br&gt;

This arrangement will allow the driver to select between the ECU controlled torque converter signal and a locked up setting.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| Saand || Mazda, 626, 91 || $2 || 2 Hours ||  ||  || 12% improvement between locked and unlocked torque converter. Not an accurate test || 
|-
| RH77 || '98 Acura Integra || $1-2 || 1-2 Hours || Unk. || Unk. || ~10% Estimate. Testing not conducted due to variable environment between tanks.  Immediate FE feedback device (SGII) demonstrates the estimated improvement. ||
|-
| Oil pan 4 || 1984 chevy suburban|| N/A || N/A || 21mpg || 16mpg || This is the 24% decrease in fuel economy observed when my torque converter lockup quit ||
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Possible Jerky shift changes &lt;br&gt;
- Possible damage to the torque converter if a shift change occurs under a high load&lt;br&gt;
- Low engine RPMs when the torque converter lock is engaged in some lower gears as most cars usually won't engage the torque converter lock in low gears &lt;br&gt;

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/freezing-slushbox-torque-converter-demand-lockup-switch-10028.html Freezing the Slushbox. Torque Converter on-demand lockup switch.]

=== External links ===
[http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2526797 The Free Mod Series: Part VIII Electronic Transmission Controller - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Thinnest transmission oil</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>79</id>
  <revision>
    <id>80</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:21:57Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Regear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="2183" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Transmission.2FDifferential|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Regear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Thinner oil decreases friction resistance that the engine must overcome. This leaves you with a bit more mpg and power.

== Instructions for mod ==
See your cars workshop manual for instructions to drain the transmission oil.

Fill the transmission with new thinner oil

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| TomEV || Citicar, electric, 1976 || $12 USD || 1 Hour  || ~250 wH/mi || ~235 wH/mi || 2% to 3% || Changed transaxle oil from factory recommended 90w gear lube to Pennzoil Synchromesh synthetic manual transmission oil. &lt;br&gt;NOTE - A lower wH/mi (Watt hour per mile) number signifies better efficiency - just like a low score in golf is better than a high score. ||
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
* Additional transmission wear if thinner oil used than car maker specifies.&lt;br&gt;
* Some change in gear mesh sound (qualitative change).  Not as metallic sounding - more mellow. (One notices different noises in an EV!)&lt;br&gt;
* No perceptible change in transaxle temperature compared to dino oil.&lt;br&gt;
* This mod will probably void a factory warranty if you use an ultra-thin oil such as [http://www.pennzoil.com/#/transmission-fluids-and-gear-oil/pennzoil-synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid Synchromesh] for a transaxle/differential.

== References ==
*[http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log.php?vehicleid=1088 Fuel Log Graph showing general increase in efficiency since Synchromesh gear lube use]
=== Forum thread links ===
*[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/effect-gear-oil-viscosity-transmission-efficiency-metro-owners-128.html Effect of gear oil viscosity on transmission efficiency]&lt;br&gt;
*[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/synchromesh-gm-part-number-2447.html Synchromesh gear oil thread]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Bigger battery</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>80</id>
  <revision>
    <id>81</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:22:51Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:IMG_0774.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a group 31 Marine battery, 13 inches long, 75 pounds]] '''Introduction''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="7642" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:IMG_0774.JPG|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a group 31 Marine battery, 13 inches long, 75 pounds]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This page is about getting more battery in your vehicle so you can:&lt;br&gt;
Have more reliable cold starting. &lt;br&gt;
Use an [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Alternator_Disable_Switch.html Alternator disable switch]&lt;br&gt;
Do an [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Alternator_delete.html Alternator delete]&lt;br&gt;
Do more Engine Off coasting (EOC)&lt;br&gt;
Run a large power inverter with the engine on.&lt;br&gt;
Run a small power inverter or small load with then engine off.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
All with out killing your starting battery. &lt;br&gt;
Remember, your vehicles original equipment starting battery was never intended for any of this.

== How batteries are rated for total power capacity ==
Amp Hours (Amps x hours), the total electrical charge the battery can deliver. The Amp Hour rating comes from the amp load that the battery can sustain for 10 or  20 hours at a temperature of 78'F before dropping to 10.5V.&lt;br&gt;
Reserve Capacity (RC or RCM), the number of minutes a battery can sustain a 25 amp load at 80'F before it drops to 10.5V.&lt;br&gt;
Reserve Capacity for deep cycle traction batteries can also be measured as number of minutes holding a 75 amp load before dropping to 10.5V&lt;br&gt;
Peukert's Law, the scientific law explaining why you get less amp hours the faster you discharge a battery.

== How batteries are rated for engine starting ==
CA or Cranking Amps, The amount of current a 12 volt battery can produce for 30 seconds with out dropping below 7.2V at 32'F.&lt;br&gt;
CCA or Cold Cranking Amps, The amount of current a 12 volt battery can produce for 30 seconds with out dropping below 7.2V a 0'F.&lt;br&gt;
When you install a bigger battery you get more of these, don't worry about having too many Cranking amps, you can never have too many. If doing a drop in upgrade make sure the deep cycle battery has enough cranking amps to start your vehicle during the winter as deep cycle batteries tend to have low lower cranking amps for their size compared to a dedicated starting battery of the same size.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
(Temperatures are in Fahrenheit as to not confuse degrees Celsius and Charge rate as both are represented by a number followed by the letter "C")

== Battery selection ==
Traditional flooded deep cycle lead acid batteries take a very long time to reach full charge. Up to 8 to 12 hours just to reach 80% charge.&lt;br&gt;
A valve regulated AGM or gel cell deep cycle marine battery on the other hand is perfectly designed for alt delete and EOC. In its normal life a deep cycle marine battery does double duty provides starting power for the main engine and powers lot of little stuff when the main is off line. These batteries are used to run pumps, lights, trolling motor, fans and more. The Valve Regulated Lead Acid battery (your deep cycle AGM and gel batteries) have slightly different plate chemistry from a traditional flooded deep cycle battery allowing them to almost fully recharge in 2 to 3 hours.
But VRLA batteries are more vulnerable to thermal run-away during heavy charging. Follow all manufacturer instructions to the letter when trying to "fast charge them". When charging batteries slow and steady wins the race.&lt;br&gt;
The battery pictured is an Absorbed Glass Mat deep cycle Marine battery.&lt;br&gt;
I have seen this run away failure may times over the years, always the battery gets really hot due to internally shorting out, some times part of the battery can melt and give off a really bad sulfuric acid and burnt plastic smell. I have yet to see an AGM battery fail in truly spectacular catastrophic manor where they catch fire or explode. It could happen.

== Instructions for mod ==
There are 3 ways to preform this mod:&lt;br&gt;
Simple Upgrade. &lt;br&gt;
This is where you stick with the same size or sizes recommended by your original equipment manufacture and you are just installing a gel or AGM version of your standard flooded lead acid battery.&lt;br&gt;
   -This is just a simple upgrade
   -You know it will always work
   -Only useful for short EOC and turning your engine off at stop lights
Stuff the largest battery that you can make fit into the existing battery compartment:&lt;br&gt;
   -Not as simple
   -Requres research of battery sizes and some trial and error
   -Auto parts store clerks should assist you
   -Good compromise for the EOCer
   -Battery hold down may need to be modified
   -If you are brave, alter, modify or fabricate a new battery perch making it wider, deeper, longer or taller as needed
Full battery relocation:&lt;br&gt;
   -Safety concerns&lt;br&gt;
   -Requires fabricating a way to secure the battery
   -Requires fabrication of new wiring
   -No longer constrained by vehicle battery compartment
   -You can use multiple batteries
   -Much more expensive
   -Battery may be used as ballast improving weight distribution
   -This is what you have to do if you want to run an alternator delete for extended trips
   -Highly recommended when using Lithium batteries

If you put a bigger battery in the existing compartment just reuse the existing battery cables if possible. Some times you may need to make them longer or put different lug ends on them if switching connector styles. If you relocate the battery you should go at least one size larger than the factory battery cable. Use welding cable if you want highly flexible cable that does not have to make real tight turns. If you would rather use cable that retains a shape when you bend it and that can handle tight turns then you want multi stranded THHN, THWN rated power cable.&lt;br&gt;
Factory battery cables tend to be kind of in the middle of welding cable and multi stranded TH cable, its not as flexible as welding cable but will tend to hold its shape kind of like TH cable, but remains much more flexible than TH cable.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&amp;lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
After a long EOC the alternator belt will likely squeal when you fire the engine back up (unless you have done an alternator delete).&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle weight will be increased by going to a larger lead acid battery.&lt;br&gt;
If the battery is relocated and increased in size it may change handling charaistics.&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle handling and weight distribution can be hindered or improved depending on how the mod is executed.&lt;br&gt;
Don't put the battery between the fuel tank and bumper.&lt;br&gt;
If you alter the vehicle wiring or battery position don't allow battery cables or the battery its self to rub on live machine elements such as axles, control arms, brake lines, the ground, springs or belts/pulleys.&lt;br&gt;
If you replace a starting battery with a deep cycle battery of the same size you can end up with less cranking amps.


== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/bigger-battery-32843.html Bigger battery]

=== External links to battery suppliers ===
http://store.evtv.me/index.php&lt;br&gt;
http://www.batteryspace.com/

=== Related mods and considerations ===
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Alternator_delete&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Weight_reduction</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>L.E.D conversion</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>81</id>
  <revision>
    <id>82</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:23:48Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Electrical_mods Return to main page] Image:LEDretrofit.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|advanced techno..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="9149" xml:space="preserve">[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Electrical_mods Return to main page]
[[Image:LEDretrofit.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|advanced technology]]
[[Image:Example.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|One is LED, one is not]]
This page is designed to be an area for people working on all sorts of car related LED conversions. Feel free to add your stories, thread links, results and how to's.  

== Rules for mod ==
&lt;b&gt;Rule #1 for LED headlights:&lt;/b&gt; &lt;br&gt;
DO NOT use 8000K+ "blue" or "purple" LEDs for your head lights.
That bluish purplish color is not cool, it does not let you see further than a lower K number light and all other drivers will hate you at night. Most things you want to see at night (fuzzy brown, tan, black and 2 leg animals) will absorb and not reflect blue light back at you.&lt;br&gt;
3000K to 6000K is perfect. With the 3000K to 3500K range your LEDs would look like very good quality head lights, depending on the manufacture they can look very yellow. With the 5500K to 6500K range your lights would be slightly whiter colored than a typical good factory spec halogen bulb. &lt;br&gt;
When you start to get well above 6000K, the light may appear brighter but your eyes will work much harder to recognize terrain, objects, animals which will cause eye fatigue. &lt;br&gt;

&lt;b&gt;Rule #2 for LED lights:&lt;/b&gt; &lt;BR&gt;
Always test before putting them on the road.&lt;br&gt;
Tail lights and brake lights may not be bright enough for other drivers to see if you are driving into the sun set or sun rise. Remember these older tail light reflectors and their lensing were designed for bulbs that radiate light in all directions and not directional LEDs. Also LED head lights may blind other drivers, in some states the police wont hesitate to pull you over and give you a $300 or more ticket for improper equipment.&lt;br&gt;
And I hope they enforce these rules.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;

== How light is measured ==
Luminosity (LM) is the measurement for total amount of light produced, it will always be directly proportional to Wattage the LED consumes. &lt;br&gt; 
Color temperature measured in K is best described as the characteristic color of visible light.

== Instructions for mod ==
There are a few ways to do the LED conversion.&lt;br&gt;
1 buy drop in LED conversions and install them.&lt;br&gt;
2 buy a premade LED, housing and reflector/lens assembly for something non-auto related and install it on your vehicle.&lt;br&gt;
3 buy one of the many styles of LEDs out there and install them into a housing one way or another. There are around a dozen or so popular component LED styles, they range from raw "LED chips", to light bulb replacement arrays like the various G4 bulb replacement arrays and even your standard dome style 3mm, 5mm and larger LEDs.&lt;br&gt;
You can arrange these LEDs in any number of ways in any factory or aftermarket light housing, tail light, running light, dome light, licence plate light and anywhere else they will fit.&lt;br&gt;
The project is limited to the builders imagination, budget, housing space and time.
Here are the types of LEDs you will find out in the wild:&lt;br&gt;
LED chips:&lt;br&gt;
These are very cheap high powered cells, they require 12 to 30 volts because LED cells are stacked in series, they put off a lot of heat and a lot of light, beware they will require a metal heat sink.

Replacement arrays: &lt;br&gt;
These cost more and put out at least as much light as the standard bulbs they replace, they usually have a tiny pin based built in heat sink, putting RTV on the back is highly recommended. Plus the RTV can be used to help glue them to the inside of a light housing.
These can be low voltage, like 12 volts to higher voltage. Read the package, know what you are buying. 12v G4 replacement arrays are most useful in tail light applications.

3mm, 5mm and 10mm individual LEDs. &lt;br&gt;
Thse are cheap, normally use about 2.8 to 3.4 volts to forward bias them to put out light. &lt;br&gt;
The hard plastic housing makes a good heat sink. and protects the LED material. &lt;br&gt;
These LEDs are also commonly 2 colored. &lt;br&gt;
All hand fashioned vehicle LEDs should have a voltage regulator to protect them against surging voltage from a failing alternator.

Voltage control: &lt;br&gt;
If your LEDs are wired up to use less than the 14.5 or so volts found in a charging system you can use a very cheap and very simple voltage regulator.
If you are using the raw "LED chips" that require 20 to 30 volts then you need to find a lap top voltage booster.

== User experiences  ==
Some vehicles roughly 2000 and up, including 2002+ Chrysler products with Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) and many European cars, wont like being converted over to LED. They will detect the lack of current draw to the blinker, tail or running light and give you a burned out bulb indicator on the dash or a slow flash.&lt;br&gt;
If you try to install LED flashers all the way around for your blinkers your blinkers likely will not blink. Chances are you will have to put LEDs in the rear and leave your regular flasher bulbs up front and install a heavy duty flasher unit. Or use ballasted LEDs with resistors that mimic the current draw of a regular bulb. This does 2 things. It defeats the purpose of using LEDs to reduce electrical draw. And, if the LED quits working the burnt out bulb detecting system wont alarm.
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! Amps used before mod !! Amps used after mod !! power savings !! Instruction Link !! additional comments
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || 9th gen chevy suburban || $100 || 1 hour || 5 amps per low beam || 1.24 amps per LED low beam || 3.76 amps saved per lamp || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/led-4x6-inch-head-lights-32640.html LED head light conversion]] || A 35 watt LED high beam is substantially brighter than a 55 watt halogen 
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || 9th gen chevy suburban || around $30 || 4 hours || OE incandescent running + head light draw 17 amps || Converting head lights and most running lights only draws 5 amps || 15 amps saved while the brake is pressed with head lights on ||[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/amp-draw-before-after-led-32821.html Amp draw before and after LEDs] || 1157 LED brake lights are far brighter than the original bulbs
|-
|Vman455 || 3rd gen Toyota Prius || $150 || 8 hours || halogen projector lowbeams 8 amps total || Corolla LED projector lowbeams 1.6 amps total || 6.4 amps saved ||[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/2015-murano-led-retrofit-into-2013-prius-32658.html 2015 Murano LED retrofit into 2013 Prius] || Replaced H11 halogens
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If you dont use the correct parts your blinkers wont flash.
Even if you do everything right you still might get a burned out bulb indicator on your dash if your vehicle doesn't like LEDs.&lt;br&gt;
It seems like a lot of these LED headlight "upgrades" simply do not work at all for low beam applications with out extensive modification to the housing or to how the LED sits in the housing. Sometimes its as simple as blocking off some of the headlight with tape to cut down glare. Other times the problems encountered with the LEDs is light can split off into some kind of useless pattern for seeing at night or just plain blind other drivers with glare or poor to non existent beam pattern.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/led-lowbeam-experiment-20498.html LED lowbeam experiment] &lt; This is where we put every thing before this wiki page

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/new-led-bulb-resistor-24303.html LED bulb resistor]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/led-lights-15160.html LEDs and winter driving]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/truck-trailer-led-lights-18573.html LED trailer lights and snow a no go]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/led-headlights-xenon-depot-has-anyone-here-tried-32600-3.html LED Headlights from Xenon Depot]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/led-4x6-inch-head-lights-32640.html H4656 LED lights]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/2015-murano-led-retrofit-into-2013-prius-32658.html 2015 Murano LED retrofit into 2013 Prius ]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/amp-draw-before-after-led-32821.html Amp draw before and after LEDs]

=== External Froum thread links ===
[http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=448961 super bright reverse lights for 73-91 chevy tail light]

[http://www.wind-sun.com/ForumVB/showthread.php?14047-LEDs-offer-a-brighter-future-says-report/page3 More LED info]

[http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/fabrication/657055-possibly-brightest-high-beams.html LED high beams]

[http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/fabrication/675542-led-taillights.html Custom LED tail lights for 82-92 camaro, using resistor voltage regulation]

=== External links ===
[http://lightbarreport.com/.html LED light bar report] Lots of info on light bars and LEDs in general.

=== External links for buying LEDs ===

[http://www.superbrightleds.com/ superbrightleds.com]

[http://www.trailtech.net/A182-SS.html Off the shelf motor cycle LED head lights]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Solar 12v assist</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>82</id>
  <revision>
    <id>83</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:24:13Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Electrical_mods|Back to main mod page]]&lt;br&gt; '''Pre-Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Before you buy anything ask questions on the ecomodder.com forum..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="8757" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Electrical_mods|Back to main mod page]]&lt;br&gt;
'''Pre-Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Before you buy anything ask questions on the ecomodder.com forum or the northern AZ wind-sun forum. The most common mistake people make is they start out by buying garbage charge controllers, inverters or solar panels. The on line solar market is being flooded with cheap Chinese imitation solar hardware.
[[Image:SolarAssist.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Helpful for cars with older batteries, or cars that sit for extended periods (batteries experience slow self-discharge when sitting). Can keep your battery topped off during the day to counter small electrical loads. Can reduce the amount of output needed from your alternator (and therefore fuel burned) by a very small amount. 

Only small gains should be expected. A full alternator delete was shown to cause a 10% mpg gain therefore the low power supplied by a solar panel would only provide a small fraction of this saving. Adding a solar panel could increase the aerodynamic drag which could cause efficiency to decrease overall.


Note: To keep solar panel running at peak efficiency ensure the panel is clean and avoid parking under trees if charging is required.
== Instructions for mod ==
Bolt solar panel to top of car.&lt;br&gt;
Or glue low profile panels to the roof with RTV.&lt;br&gt;
Low profile flexible stick on panels or small ridged fiberglass backed panels are highly recommended for vehicles that will be driven at highway speeds.&lt;br&gt;
If low speeds will be the norm and aero dynamics are not of concern then just racking a ridged glass topped panel to an existing roof rack will work fine.

Connect the solar panel to a battery charging regulator and connect the regulator to the battery.

== Modern charge regulators in a nut shell ==
First and foremost you get what you pay for.&lt;br&gt;
In the world of solar, an input of 1 going in never equals an output of 1 by the time it gets to where its going.&lt;br&gt;
If you put 100 watts worth of solar panels on top of your vehicle don't expect to get more than an average of 65 watts for more than 4 or 5 hour a day while the sun is at its highest. During winter expect to see under half the panels rated power coming out of them.&lt;br&gt;
PWM, A Pulse Width Modulation charge controller gives you the solar panel's amps but anything above 12 to 13 volts, you know all those volts that make up the watts you thought you were going to get are actually just wasted. (sorry) &lt;br&gt; This is why PWM controllers are typically around 60% to 70% efficient.&lt;br&gt;
MPPT,  Maximum Point Power Tracking charge controller.&lt;br&gt; 
If you want any chance at getting anywhere near your solar panels rated out put going to your vehicle electrical system you need one of these.&lt;br&gt; 
Or you could just add more solar panels, spend more money and get less fuel economy.&lt;br&gt;
A good MPPT controller is up to 97% to 99% efficient.&lt;br&gt;
This charge controller can take all the useable watts, even with the solar panel producing as little as 8v to 9v and actually push that power onto a vehicles 12v electrical system, an impossible feat for a PWM controller. This is the solar charge controller holey grail. And yes, they are expensive. And no, there is no such thing as a cheap MPPT charge controller. If you find a cheap MPPT charge controller its likely a mislabeled overpriced cheap copy of some name brand PWM controller.
If you think you are smart because you have found a $20 Chinese MPPT controler, guess what, it's not MPPT. It's the same as the $15 PWM controller that looks exactly like the MPPT. This fake chinese MPPT garbage is flooding the market.

== Current available charge controllers ==

The smallest high quality MPPT charger on the market at this time are the genasun 14.2v 5amp chargers for lithium batteries. The 14.2v charger will work with both LiFePO4 and lead acid AGM batteries. Cost: about $100 form batteryspace dot com. I believe most people will only want to install 65 watts or less of solar panels on top of their car.&lt;br&gt;
If 65 watts isn't enough for your vehicle borne solar aspirations, next up from that is the 10 amp genasun 14.2v, about $180 for LiFePO4 and AGM. Realistically few cars will fit 140 watts of solar panels on their roofs.&lt;br&gt;
If you have a caravan or just a van that you want to solar the roof of, then you move up to 15 amps and higher MPPT charge controllers.&lt;br&gt; Starting price on 15 amp MPPT charge controllers is around $200.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Increased aerodynamic drag which could cause an overall reduction in efficiency.&lt;br&gt;
- WARNING: A typical "12 volt solar panel" by its self typically generates up to between 17 and 21 volts, with out a charge regulator you will fry the vehicle battery and possibly damage other electronics.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/civic-vx-mpg-project-del-alternator-add-solar-22022.html Civic VX mpg project: delete alt, install solar]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-assist-vehicle-roof-top-solar-panels-32752.html Solar assist: vehicle roof top solar panels]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/theyve-got-solar-panels-roof-32159.html Ambulance with solar panel roof]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/vw-bus-ev-conversion-solar-roof-31841.html VW short bus with huge solar panel roof]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/flexible-solar-panels-31690.html Flexible solar panels 2]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/idea-no-alternator-solar-charging-setup-30156.html No alternator solar charging]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/flexable-solar-panels-29963.html?highlight=solar flexible solar panels]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-panels-lighten-alternator-load-19669.html solar panel to lighten alternator load]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-panels-auto-applications-17009.html solar panels auto applications]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/replacing-alternator-solar-panel-array-roof-4097.html replace alternator with solar panel array]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-panel-dissapointment-16119.html solar disappointment]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-roof-9549.html solar roof]


=== Forum thread links where an ecomodder (here) actually attached a solar panel to a vehicle ===
The good, bad and ugly; we show it all:&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/civic-vx-mpg-project-del-alternator-add-solar-22022.html Civic VX mpg project: delete alt, install solar]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-assist-vehicle-roof-top-solar-panels-32752.html Solar assist: vehicle roof top solar panels]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/vehicle-solar-panels-grid-33015.html Vehicle solar to grid]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-panel-dissapointment-16119.html solar disappointment]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/solar-roof-9549.html solar roof]&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/alternator-delete-solar-panel-bed-cover-33297.html Alt delete, solar panel bed cover]

=== External links ===
[http://www.rpod-owners.com/uploads/3251/Fixed_Solar_Install_Forest_River_R-Pod_178_-_Compressed.pdf Solar panel install on a camper]

=== Legit External links for buying high end charge controllers ===
If you are not buying a name brand charge controller like Outback, Genasun, Morningstar, Midnight, Solar Converter inc., Blue Sky, Renogy its likely to be a very cheap knock off of one of these.

[http://www.solar-electric.com/inverters-controllers-accessories/chco.html Northern Arizona Wind and Sun]&lt;br&gt;
[http://www.batteryspace.com/solarbatterychargerandcontrollers.aspx Batteryspace charge controllers]

=== External links to battery suppliers ===
http://store.evtv.me/index.php&lt;br&gt;
http://www.batteryspace.com/

=== Related or complementary mods===
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Alternator_delete&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Bigger_battery&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Electric_coolant_water_pump&lt;br&gt;
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/L.E.D_conversion&lt;br&gt;</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Increase tire pressure to max sidewall</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>83</id>
  <revision>
    <id>84</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:25:15Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]&lt;br&gt; [[Hypermiling_Techniques|Back to Hypermiling Tips Page]]  Image:Preesure gage.jpg|rig..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="4748" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]&lt;br&gt;
[[Hypermiling_Techniques|Back to Hypermiling Tips Page]]

[[Image:Preesure gage.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Reduces rolling resistance which decreases the amount of power your car needs to move. 

There are mixed anecdotal reports about improvements in other properties (steering response, wet traction, and tire wear). Some folks report improvements and some report degradations. 

== Instructions for mod ==
Check tire side wall for max PSI. Inflate to that number. 

At Max side wall pressure the ride comfort will go way down, you will feel the bumps more. Backing down the pressure to 44PSI (about 10% under max) is usually a good balance between MPG and ride comfort. 

By increasing pressure you decrease the contact patch of the tire slightly. This makes the weight per area of contact go up, increasing traction and reducing rolling resistance. Less rolling resistance = higher MPG.

Many users have found that this mod also increased their wet and snowy traction.  Cornering speeds can also go up with the higher pressure.


Note: Many service station pressure gauges are not accurate. Some people have damaged their wheels and found that their tire pressure was 5 or 10 PSI higher than they intended because of inaccurate pressure gauges. Purchasing an accurate hand held pressure gauge may be useful to check when inflating tires close to their max pressure.

== User experiences  ==
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! PSI Before Mod !! PSI After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Weather Spotter || Toyota Matrix, 2006 || $0 || 0 min (do at regular pressure check) || 33.4 (32 psi) || 33.9 (44 psi) || 1.5% (or .5 MPG) || No ABA testing, just tank to tank averages over 2 months
|-
|MetroMPG || Pontiac, Firefly, 1998 || $0 || 0 || assuming 30PSI distance covered in coast down test 667ft || Coast down distance vs PSI &lt;br&gt; 20 - 569 &lt;br&gt; 30 - 667 &lt;br&gt; 40 - 678 &lt;br&gt; 50 - 673 &lt;br&gt; 60 - 686 || Percent distance change from 30 PSI &lt;br&gt; 20 - 14.7% &lt;br&gt; 30 - 0 &lt;br&gt; 40 - 1.7% &lt;br&gt; 50 - 0.9% &lt;br&gt; 60 - 2.9% || Note: Coast down percentage increase may not directly translate to MPG percentage change &lt;br&gt; [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-coast-down-distances-various-tire-pressures-2721.html Experiment: coast down distances @ various tire pressures]
|-
|trikkonceptz ||Pontiac Vibe, 2004, Automatic || $0 || 0 || 32PSI ||to 44PSI || 1-4% (also changed driving at the same time) this helped but not sure on how much.||
|-
|Echo-Francis|| Toyota Echo 2005 || $0 || 15 Mins || 33PSI || 45PSI Summer / 40PSI Winter || Not Tested. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Tire Pressure]
|-
|cbaber || Honda Civic HX, 1998 || $0 || 5 min || 30 PSI || 45 PSI || ~7% (3 MPG) || Comparing tank averages over at least 3 tanks on each pressure. &lt;br /&gt; [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/15-more-psi-7-better-mpg-26496.html 15 More PSI = 7% better MPG]
|}


Note: When testing MPG improvement the increased pressure will increase the tire radius therefore a scangauge or similar device will not display accurate efficiency until its recalibrated. A standard back to back test using the scangauge MPG output will not give reliable results&lt;br&gt;
The ideal method of testing involves checking the amount of fuel used when traveling at constant speed between 2 defined locations for different tire pressures.

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
First off ride noise and vibrations will increase substantially. 

Some users (under 20%) have reported that their tire wear becomes uneven at higher pressure, many (over 50%) report longer tire life at higher pressures. Keep an eye out for uneven tire wear. 

== References ==
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-tire-inflation-14356.html#post190972 Discussion thread for this page]

=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/incorrect-information-re-tire-pressure-efficiency-mods-14252.html Lots of comments on the effects of high PSI tires]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/tread-depth-after-15k-miles-12438.html Tread depth after 15k miles]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-coast-down-distances-various-tire-pressures-2721.html Experiment: coast down distances @ various tire pressures]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/hyperinflating-tires-2582.html Hyperinflating tires]

=== External links ===

[http://www.nitrogentiremachine.com/proper_tire_inflation.htm Gide to checking tire contact area]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Lightweight wheels</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>84</id>
  <revision>
    <id>85</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:26:02Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:LightweightWheels.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Auto maker..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1757" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:LightweightWheels.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Auto makers regularly raid the light rims bin when trying to improve a vehicle's fuel economy ratings. Lighter wheels mean less mass to accelerate, which means less energy used. Unit for unit, reducing rotational mass will show greater benefits than reducing static (non-rotating) mass.

This mod is more beneficial in sub/urban stop &amp; go type driving than at constant speeds (highway driving).

Ecomodding Honda owners are particularly fond of the featherweight 13 inch rims originally spec'ed on the frugal Civic VX (pictured). 

== Instructions for mod ==
Swap wheels

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If you go too light on the wheels you can knock them out of round when hitting particularly catastrophic pot holes.&lt;br&gt; 
Factory Hyundai alloy 17 inch wheels found on sonata from 2005 to 2010, 46mm off set, 5 on 4.5inch lug pattern wheels are known for doing this. If you live in a war zone or some where doing a lot of road construction you may want to hold off on going with lighter wheels.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===


=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Low rolling resistance tires</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>85</id>
  <revision>
    <id>86</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:26:39Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:MichelinLatitudeCutAway.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Low..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2021" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:MichelinLatitudeCutAway.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Low rolling resistance tires reduce the amount of energy your tire absorbs as it rolls.

Cost is high, but if you need your tires replaced anyway the gains over the life of the tires may be worth the higher cost

== Instructions for mod ==
When buying tires look for low rolling resistance tires.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|External Tester || Mercedes C200 CGI ||  || 2 Hours ||  || Michelin-35&lt;br&gt; Goodyear-34.9&lt;br&gt; Pirelli-34.24&lt;br&gt; Nokian-34.04&lt;br&gt; Bridgestone-33.22 || Michelin-9.2%&lt;br&gt; Goodyear-8.89%&lt;br&gt; Pirelli-6.83%&lt;br&gt; Nokian-6.21%&lt;br&gt; Bridgestone-3.65%&lt;br&gt; Average-6.96%|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/big-test-5-lrr-tires-14406.html Big test of 5 LRR tires]
|-
|euromodder || Volvo V50 2005 || 530 euro || 1 Hour || 41.56 || 44.46 || 6.98% Michelin Energy Saver|| 6 month averages before and after 16 Jan 09. [http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/detail/146115.html euromodder Fuel log]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
If you need snow or ice traction, LRR tires may not be for you as they have less grip. 

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lrr-tires-my-experience-36224.html LRR to cheap, then back to LRR, 13% difference]


[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/big-test-5-lrr-tires-14406.html Big test of 5 LRR tires]

=== External links ===
[http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/detail/146115.html Euromodder Fuel log]

[http://greenseal.org/resources/reports/CGR_tire_rollingresistance.pdf Rolling resistance info]

[http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe.html Tire rolling resistance and fuel economy]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Skinny tires</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>86</id>
  <revision>
    <id>87</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:27:14Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Narrow tires present a smaller frontal area and reduce wind resista..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1323" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Narrow tires present a smaller frontal area and reduce wind resistance. In fact, narrower tires on the CRX HF model were what made its Cd .01 lower than the DX ans Si models.

Cost is high, but if you're planning to replace your tires anyway, this is worth considering.

== Instructions for mod ==
Swap wheels

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Worse handling and cornering

- Less traction

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/video-can-skinnier-tires-increase-fuel-economy-189.html Can Skinnier Tires Increase Fuel Economy?]

=== External links ===
http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe.html

http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe2.html</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Toe In</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>87</id>
  <revision>
    <id>88</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:27:48Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Toenew.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Frame|Toe settings]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Toe in is..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2817" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Wheel_.26_Tire_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Toenew.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Frame|Toe settings]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Toe in is an often configurable setting of a cars wheel alignment. The front steering wheels can be set to point away (toe-out), toward (toe-in) or parallel (zero toe) to each other. Production vehicles will typically have some toe-in, as it encourages the vehicle to drive in a straight line and provides straight-line stability; race cars will typically have zero toe or toe-out, as it encourages quicker steering response while sacrificing straight-line stability.  Both toe-in and toe-out will increase rolling resistance, as the tires will "scrub" even when driving in a straight line. Therefore, the most efficient configuration is zero toe, when the steering wheels are parallel to each other; however this will sacrifice the straight-line stability of the vehicle.

== Instructions for mod ==
Consult your workshop manual for specific directions &lt;br&gt;

[[Image:SsFrontWD.png|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]

Most cars will have a steering arrangement as shown in the picture to the side. The steering rack tie rod ends screw into a bracket at the back of both wheels that steer. Rotating the tie end will increase or decrease the overall distance between the 2 ends of the steering rack. As the steering bracket on each wheel is set a distance behind the centre of the wheels increasing or decreasing the overall steering rack distance will set the toe in of the wheels.


== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|External Tester || Honda Insight 2000 || $0 || 1 Hour || 63.2 || 68.6 || 8.54% from 1/8 inch toe in to 0 toe in || [http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/car/02q2/2000_honda_insight-long-term_road_test 2000 Honda Insight - Long-Term Road Test - Auto Reviews - Car and Driver]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
* Twitchy steering control 
* Decreased straight line stability
* No more driving while eating breakfast and talking on hand-held cell phone

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
* [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/first-time-ive-seen-change-toe-quantified-car-12358.html First time I've seen a change in toe quantified, Car and Driver 1st gen Insight test]

=== External links ===
* [http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/car/02q2/2000_honda_insight-long-term_road_test 2000 Honda Insight - Long-Term Road Test - Auto Reviews - Car and Driver]
* [http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html Caster, Camber and Toe: What Do They Mean?]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Taller Tires</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>88</id>
  <revision>
    <id>89</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:28:42Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ImagesCA389WAQ.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Taller tire swap]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This modification changes your f..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="6533" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ImagesCA389WAQ.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Taller tire swap]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This modification changes your final gearing through taller tires.&lt;br&gt;
Also greater tire circumfrence results in less rolling resistance.

== Instructions for mod ==
The best time to perform this mod is when you need new tires and your vehicle is at the tire shop.&lt;br&gt;
I recommend ordering your tires from some where like tirerack.com, because local tire shops will almost always try to sell you what they have on hand or try talking you out of doing your ecomod.&lt;br&gt;
There are a few different ways to do this mod.&lt;br&gt;
You can play it safe and go with the next size taller aspect ratio which may even be recommended by the vehicle manufacture.
Or you can use this as a time to upgrade to a larger rim size and tire size if you are currently stuck on a "dead tire size" such as 245/45R16  or a "dead rim size", which is pretty much anything 13 inch.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Your best bet is to do this right is to look up your OE recommended tire size on your vehicle data sticker or go on tirerack.com and look it up.
Take your factory tire size and try to go about an inch taller.
If you have a truck, you can go 2 inches taller than the factory size most of the time.
You may have to go one size wider to be able to go taller, don't let this discourage you.&lt;br&gt;
With 15 inch rimed tires going 1 aspect ratio size taller will give you a tire less than 1 inch taller.
Most 16 inch rims will give about a 1 inch taller tire with the next size higher aspect ratio. &lt;br&gt;
What you are trying to do is get less tire rotations per mile.&lt;br&gt;
For example a Yokohama AVID ENVigor in 195/60R15 Vs. 195/55R15 will be 3/4'' inch taller and will about take about 26 less rotations to go each mile. That could drop your typical cruse RPM from 2225RPM at 65mph to 2161RPM at 65mph.

== User experiences  ==
Enter your tire change results&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Before and After Tire Sizes
|-
|Oil pan 4 || 1984 Chevy Surban C10 || $748 for 5 tires || 1 Hour || 25.2 MPG || No change || Possible slight improvement || Old size: P235/75R15 &lt;br&gt; New size: 31x10.5R15
|} 
Additional notes: When going from the Pmetric size small truck tire to a real load range C floatation sized truck tire each tire was about 20 pounds heavier and about 2 inches taller. I kept the same factory steel rims. The new tires are the yokohama AT-S&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Enter your tire change results&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Before and After Tire Sizes
|-
| Oil Pan 4 || 1985 camaro Z28 || $550 for 5 tires || 1 Hour || 25mpg || Untested || Untested || Old size: 215/55R16 &lt;br&gt; New size: 225/60R16
|}
Additional notes:
My factory size is 245/50R16 a dieing size, not much selection. The camaro had 215/55R16 tires for the last several years. I installed a very popular OE size, 225/60R16 (yokohama S4 ultrahigh performance all season), that size offers a wide selection and great prices. &lt;br&gt;
The 215/55R16 tires were about the same as the OEM size, the 225/60R16 tires are about 1 inche taller. No rubbing, not problems, just lots of road grip. &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Enter your tire change results&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Before and After Tire Sizes
|-
| Who || what || how much || how long || a number || more numbers || your best guess || Old size: ???/??R?? &lt;br&gt; New size: ???/??R??
|}
Additional notes:

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Your vehicle will ride higher. If you have a car and stayed in the guide lines above your ride hight will have increased about a half inch or less. A half inch or less change in ride hight will have minimal effect on vehicle handling. &lt;br&gt;
Any time you go to a different tire size it will change the read out on your speedometer and odometer. Most newer vehicles just need to have parameters changed on the computer. Older vehicles will require the driver to remember the correction factor or install a different speedometer drive gear on the transmission tail shaft. &lt;br&gt;
One good consequences of the mod will be you always see an increase in load rating with the increase in tire size. &lt;br&gt;
For example a yokohama AVID ENVigor 195/60R15 will have a 100lb higher load rating when compared to the shorter AVID ENVigor in 195/55R15. &lt;br&gt;
That is a higher saftey margin if nothing else. On a truck vehicle weight, load and tire capacity become much more important.
Going to a larger more popular tire size could give you the largest saftey factor of all: &lt;br&gt;
Being able to avoid tires made in china. &lt;br&gt;
In some countries it is against the law to alter vehicle tire size.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/my-tyres-were-oversized-my-mpg-went-down-17770.html Went from 15 to 18 inch rims, MPGs down] Surprize, surprize... &lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/tall-tire-test-17440.html Taller tire test] &lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/choosing-tire-18933.html choosing a tire on 13 inch rims] &lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/what-diameter-tires-you-using-moment-18783.html What diameter tires are you using?] &lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/top-5-most-fuel-efficient-tires-lowest-rolling-2813.html LLR tires] &lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lots-tyre-data-crr-noise-db-wet-grip-18989.html Lots of tire data, noise db, wet grip] &lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/taller-tire-test-5-7-mpg-increase-observed-23055.html Taller tire test 5.7mpg increase observed]&lt;br&gt;

=== External links ===
[http://www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html Tire size, gear ratio, RPM and speed calculator] &lt;br&gt;
[http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp Tirerack survey results] &lt;br&gt;
[http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testSearch.jsp Tirerack tire tests] &lt;br&gt;
[http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&amp;tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H%26V%29 Tirerack.com tire specs] &lt;br&gt;
[http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe.html barrystiretech] &lt;br&gt;
[http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe2.html barrystiretech] &lt;br&gt;</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Aftermarket cruise control</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>89</id>
  <revision>
    <id>90</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:29:12Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:CruiseControl.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; IF you're the type of d..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1567" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:CruiseControl.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
IF you're the type of driver who has trouble with a lead foot on the open road, an electronic throttle nanny will save you fuel.

(That said, keep in mind that a dedicated ecodriver can get even better fuel economy than cruise control while maintaining the same average speed.)

Installing a cruise unit can also permit you to test vehicle mods more rigorously by removing the experimenter's right foot from the equation.

== Instructions for mod ==
See installation instructions for cruise control system.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- If you normally drive without a lead foot standard cruise control may give you worse efficiency.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/audiovox-ccs-100-cruise-control-replacement-cant-do-4078.html Audiovox CCS-100 aftermarket cruise control replacement (can't do FE tests)]

=== External links ===</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Fuel economical Cruise control</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>90</id>
  <revision>
    <id>91</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:30:34Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:SmartCruiseControl.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Most ecodrivers kn..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1649" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:SmartCruiseControl.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Most ecodrivers know that using cruise control will burn more gas in most situations compared to a smart right foot. The problem is that cruise reacts to inclines &amp; descents in exactly the WRONG way for best efficiency. If only there were a clever way to control the throttle via engine load rather than speed... Well, EcoModder member jomelmaldonado has done just that. 

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/cruise-control-mpg-sensitive-logic-2031.html Cruise control with MPG sensitive logic]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>0c6b601d063da652bee55d97bf36a797d8619511</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Electric conversion</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>91</id>
  <revision>
    <id>92</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:31:17Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:ElecConversion.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This is the ultimate e..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1835" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:ElecConversion.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This is the ultimate engine mod: yank the ICE out and do a 100% battery electric conversion.

There's no arguing the superior efficiency of electric drive over internal combustion.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- Discharged batteries

- Danger if motor controllers blow up or the battery bank is shorted together

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ben-nelsons-electro-metro-build-thread-848.html Ben Nelson's electro Metro build thread]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-motorcycle-conversion-599.html Electric motorcycle conversion]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-ev-conversion-2373.html Paul and Sabrina's cheap EV conversion]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-car-conversion-project-forkenswift-33.html Electric car conversion: Project ForkenSwift]

=== External links ===</text>
    <sha1>d11ed5856f3db0bad376c1bbb22b81fe3a37e519</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>General maintenance</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>92</id>
  <revision>
    <id>93</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:31:42Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Maintenance.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; OK, so technically this i..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5261" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Maintenance.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
OK, so technically this isn't a mod.

But it must be said that the starting point for an efficient vehicle is one that's maintained in good condition. There's little point in building on a weak foundation.

Particularly if you're driving an older vehicle, there are a number of maintenance items that should be checked to ensure you're starting from the best possible position.

== Instructions for mod ==
Check for any of the following

- missing or defective thermostat, causing low operating temperature

- clogged intake manifold exhaust crossover passage (for heating intake manifold)

- engine misfire caused by bad spark plug, ignition wire, coil, dist. cap or rotor

- late ignition timing

- bad vacuum advance unit (common in old cars)

- stuck centrifugal advance mechanism in distributor (needs oil occasionally)

- bad tension adjustment of centrifugal advance springs

- defective oxygen sensor (causes rich mixture)

- defective coolant temp. sensor for engine computer (causes rich mixture)

- worn timing belt (may cause rich fuel mixture in fuel injected cars with a MAP sensor)

- incorrect timing belt installation (timing marks should line up)

- sticking or poorly adjusted carburetor choke (causes rich mixture)

- dirty air filter on an engine with a carburetor (causes rich mixture at high power)

- clogged or defective PCV valve

- incorrect valve clearance (especially if too tight)

- high performance camshaft installed (not efficient at low power)

- worn valve guides (makes fuel mixture too lean at low power)

- vacuum leak from bad vacuum hoses or intake system gaskets (causes lean mixture)

- dirty fuel injectors

- bad fuel pressure regulator

- bad MAP sensor for fuel injection

- leaking intake duct between air flow sensor and throttle body

- too much alcohol in gasoline with old car (requires carb. modification for correct mixture)

- rusted or missing exhaust heat stove or pipe for heated air intake

- loss of compression pressure due to worn rings or leaking valves

- sticking EGR valve (causes rough idling and rich mixture on some engines)

- exhaust backpressure caused by clogged catalytic converter, muffler or crushed pipe

- stuck exhaust manifold valve for some V type engines. Intended for fast warm up.

More engine problems:

- high idle speed

- high fast idle speed when cold

- incorrect idle mixture adjustment (carburetor or fuel injection)

- leaking fuel line or carburetor (dangerous too)

- clogged jets (calibrated holes) inside carburetor

- defective power valve in carburetor

- worn camshaft lobes

- high alternator voltage (should be about 14 volts when warm)

- high oil level (interferes with crankshaft movement)

- high oil pressure (relief valve stuck or has wrong spring)

- stuck cooling fan clutch (runs fan when not needed)


Problems that increase rolling resistance:

- sticking disk brake calipers

- tight drum brake adjustment

- warped brake rotor or drum

- sticking parking brake cable

- incorrect wheel alignment, front or rear (check tire wear)

- worn suspension joints (ball joints, steering joints)

- worn control arm bushings (changes wheel alignment)

- worn or incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings

- leaking grease seals for wheel bearings

- use of snow tires when not needed

- leaking tires, causing loss of pressure

- warped tires

- bent rims, causing car to shake

- poor wheel balance, causing shaking at high speeds

- worn shocks or springs (forces driver to brake more)


Automatic transmission problems:

- wrong fluid level

- incorrect throttle valve cable adjustment

- bad vacuum modulator or vacuum hose to modulator

- sticking valves in valve body, causing delayed shifts; changing transmission fluid may help

- failure of torque converter to lock up (if equipped with lock-up torque converter); it should engage at 30-55 MPH, reducing engine speed about 10%

- stuck stator clutch in torque converter


Manual transmission problems:

- wrong fluid level

- excessive oil viscosity

- bad bearings

- failure to engage one or more gears


Differential problems:

- wrong fluid level

- excessive oil viscosity

- bad bearings

- high ratio ring and pinion gear set installed for racing

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/list-common-mechanical-problems-hurt-fuel-economy-5322.html List of common mechanical problems that hurt fuel economy]

=== External links ===</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Hybrid conversion</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>93</id>
  <revision>
    <id>94</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:32:09Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:HybridMetro.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Adding electric assist or..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2288" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:HybridMetro.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Adding electric assist or EV mode to an internal combustion vehicle is like the weather: it's one of those topics everyone likes to talk about, but nobody does anything about!

Well, almost nobody.

EcoModder member MD2000 designed a pneumatically actuated, electrically driven 5th wheel for his first generation Honda Insight.

Some companies sell kits to retrofit an electric motor inline with the drive shaft of a larger rear wheel drive vehicle.

And at least one person has built an electrically powered "pusher trailer".

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-fifth-wheel-diy-through-road-parallel-hybrid-1191.html Electric fifth wheel (DIY through the road parallel hybrid)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/home-made-hybrid-using-access-5th-gear-fwd-1605.html Home-made hybrid (using access to 5th gear on FWD transaxle)]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/powered-trailer-idea-ev-pusher-trailer-make-conventional-2975.html Powered trailer idea]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mtsu-students-retrofit-hub-motors-converting-accord-into-22746.html Retrofit hub motors convert accord into hybrid]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Weight reduction</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>94</id>
  <revision>
    <id>95</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:32:52Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:WeightReduction.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; As auto manufacturers..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="4362" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:WeightReduction.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
As auto manufacturers focus on efficiency, one of the first things they will do to save fuel is reduce vehicle mass. EG. Nissan, Toyota, Ford and Mazda have publicly announced plans to shed weight from their lineups.

The EPA estimates that an extra 100 lbs can mean a 1-2% increase in fuel consumption, with smaller vehicles affected more than larger ones.

Weight reduction can be mild or wild, free or expensive, depending on how far you take it: from simply ensuring you don't carry around unneeded junk in the trunk; to replacing the spare tire with an aerosol can of tire sealant and a roadside assistance plan; to removing unused seats and interior panels; to spending money on lightweight rims/panels; to replacing glass with lexan; to driving only with the fuel tank partially full.

Don't forget that the driver's weight is a factor too! If you're looking for another reason to drop those extra pounds, think of your fuel economy.

Auto makers achieve larger benefits when reducing weight as they are able to reduce the engine size and give the same acceleration due to the lower car weight.

Removing what is not needed is the most cost effective way to remove weight. Upgrading to lighter parts can start out cheap but get expensive to where it costs between $10-$30 per pound. The problem is those dollars spent versus fuel saved cant really ever offer any kind of ROI.

== Instructions for mod ==
Remove any of the following

- Anything being carried in the car that isn't required

- Carpeting / asthetic parts in the boot

- Carpeting / asthetic parts in the cabin

- Air conditioning parts, compressor, radiator

- Remove side mirrors

- Remove power steering pump

- Remove spare tyre, replace with wheel repair device

- Smaller lighter battery (Note: larger battery may be required for some hypermiling techniques or other mods)

- Remove of unused seats

- Remove radio speakers (only need 1 not 4 to hear the radio)

- Change glass to light weight lexan, windshields or car head lights

Upgrades:

- Light weight wheels

- Swap your cast iron engine or cylinder heads for the aluminum version if possible

- Install light weight aluminum or high dollar carbon fiber drive shafts (RWD and 4x4s)

- Convert from a lead acid starting battery to a lithium (LiFePO4) unit that weighs 1 to 2 kg.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  || Theoretical calculations&lt;br&gt; For 50kg weight reduction&lt;br&gt; each acceleration from 0 to 60km/h uses '''1.27 ml or 0.00034 gal''' less fuel &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; Using this info, if you typically do this acceleration change (0 to 60kph) 30 times for every 100km distance that will use 38ml every 100km &lt;br&gt; &lt;br&gt; If you are achieving 6 liters per 100km that gives a '''0.636%''' efficiency advantage|| For calculations see [[Theoretical_Weight_Energy|Theoretical influence of weight]]
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || Large heavy vehicles around 6000lb || What ever the cost per 100lb ||  || This should be your MPGs gain for highway driving || 0.1MPG per 100lb ||http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/online-tool-shows-aerodynamic-drag-rolling-resistance-power-6341.html || 
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==


== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/nissan-toyotas-new-years-resolutions-lose-weight-475.html Nissan and Toyota's New Year's resolutions: LOSE WEIGHT]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-i-lightened-up-my-geo-metro-70-a-4344.html How I lightened up my Geo Metro by 70 lbs]

=== External links ===
[http://www.importtuner.com/features/0407it_weight_reduction_tips/index.html Comprehensive weight reduction list]

[http://aluminumintransportation.org/downloads/AluminumNow/Ricardo%20Study_with%20cover.pdf Weight reduction effects on cars and trucks on the highway and in the city]

=== External links for buying light weight materials ===

[http://dragonplate.com/ Premade Carbon fiber sheet, tubes, and other structures]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Aero fairings</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>95</id>
  <revision>
    <id>96</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:33:33Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Motorcycle_Mods|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Honda-v2-rear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Motorcycle Aero Fairings]] '''Introduction''..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1988" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Motorcycle_Mods|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Honda-v2-rear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Motorcycle Aero Fairings]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
While motorcycles, scooters and bicycles have small projected areas relative to cars &amp; trucks, their coefficients of drag are generally much higher.

For a motorcycle, a Cd of .50 is considered low, and .90 medium, and 1.00 high.

So the addition of aerodynamic fairings that can part the air flow more gently at the front and shepherd it back together at the rear will be apparent at the fuel pump.

*'''Go to : [http://ecomodder.com/blog/diy-aero-fairings-honda-125cc-motorcycle-214-mpg/ 214 mpg with DIY aerodynamic fairings on a Honda 125cc motorbike]'''

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ninja-250-ev-conversion-solar-recharged-vetter-style-5386.html Streamlined Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV]

=== External links ===
[http://craigvetter.com/pages/470MPG/470MPG%20Main.html 470 MPG-Craig Vetter Fuel Economy contests, better mileage]</text>
    <sha1>3ede74ed6081faa5a9abd52694b9175a638902dc</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Sprocket swap</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>96</id>
  <revision>
    <id>97</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:34:09Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Sprocket.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Taller Sprocket]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This is the same idea as swapping in a..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1596" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Sprocket.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Taller Sprocket]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This is the same idea as swapping in a taller top gear or final drive in a car or truck transmission, except that on a motorcycle, it's far easier to do and much less expensive.

Swapping to a smaller rear sprocket is a commonly practiced mod to lower RPM and get better fuel economy in top gear cruising.

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}


== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Electrical Loads</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>97</id>
  <revision>
    <id>98</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:34:59Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; Alternator deletes have been shown to increase..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3051" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Alternator deletes have been shown to increase fuel economy as much as 10%. Many people will not be able to remove their alternator completely however reducing the electrical loads used by your car will reduce the power the alternator takes from the engine and therefore reduced electrical loads can achieve a small amount of this 10% improvement.

== Instructions for mod ==
Several things can be done to reduce the electrical loads in a car&lt;br&gt;
-Removing light bulbs in car doors&lt;br&gt;
-Remove useless indicator lights in cluster (speedometer unit)
-Disconnect any redundant break lights that aren't legally required
-Changing required cabin light bulbs to LEDs&lt;br&gt;
-Change brake lights, indicator lights and parker lights to LEDs&lt;br&gt;
-Disconnecting inbuilt car clock&lt;br&gt;
-Not turning on radio&lt;br&gt;
-Disable automatic raising/lowering of car antenna&lt;br&gt;
-Reducing size of grill block so that electric fan doesn't run often&lt;br&gt;

An ammeter can be used to check the current the car is taking from the batter and therefore from the alternator. Using an ammeter will give an idea of how effecting a change will be on the cars efficiency.

Without reducing the electrical load a ecomodder can control when the alternator takes energy from the drive train (desirable when the brake pedal is used). This can be done by a solenoid controlled by a switch or the brake pedal. The solenoid would connect the alternator to the battery to charge the battery only when the driver wants to take energy from the drive train to charge the battery.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|MetroMPG || Pontiac, Firefly, 1998 || $0 ||  || 70.68 || 78.08 || 7.4 (10.4%) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% MPG gain @ 70 km/h]
|-
|saand ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 0.55% for 50W theoretical calculation based on equations show in link below [[Antenna_Efficiency_Calculations|Antenna Efficiency Calculations]] || 
|-
|brucey || 00 Outback ||  ||  || 35.55 MPG (off) || 34.6 MPG (on) || 0.95 MPG, or around 2.5% ABA test of headlights on and off A (off) 35.5 B (on) 34.6 A2 35.6 110 watts when on. || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-cost-headlights-15179.html Experiment: The cost of Headlights]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% gain @ 70 km/h]

[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-cost-headlights-15179.html Experiment: The cost of Headlights]]

=== External links ===</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Fuel magnets</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>98</id>
  <revision>
    <id>99</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:36:15Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932"</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="73" xml:space="preserve">http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932</text>
    <sha1>50fc48b6e2d0b4ebfcd002123ed09d5871bfee0d</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>HHO</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>99</id>
  <revision>
    <id>100</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:36:35Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; This mod/scam is said to wo..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2924" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
This mod/scam is said to work by introducing highly explosive hydrogen gas into a vehicles intake air stream. The hydrogen is so magicly explosive that people caim it can greatly increase fuel mileage. Most HHO generator claims dwarf the tested mods here. Those who push these HHO generator take real science and warp it into something to take advantage of people. &lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
You take a primitive electrolysis generator, fill it up with water and apply 12v power to it, create a tiny amout of hydrogen and oxygen that is roughted into your intake.&lt;br&gt;

Also you can buy a non-primitive generator, Dry Cell, with PWM, and more things (efficient), and get better results and guarantee.

== User experiences  ==
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
| Gatech || Fiat 125p 1976 Carburetted || 700USD || 2 days (bought) || 17.5 || 25 || HHO Rules! || [http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Hi-all-Dry-Cell-on-Carb-1-5L-After-Some-Tests-50-D English][http://hidrogenohho.foroactivo.com.mx/t18-afinando-y-carburando-mi-vehiculo-para-lograr-los-resultados-con-hho Spanish]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Hydrogen oxygen mixtures are very explosive, users have had there plastic intakes blown apart. (You NEED a flash back arrestor, a bubbler!, and a Relay for powering on the system ONLY if engine is running!)
Many people who have installed (wrong) these reported losing fuel milage.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/waterboost-special-er-no-hho-18562.html Ecomodder HHO thread]

=== External links ===
[http://aardvark.co.nz/hho_scam.shtml HHO is a scam here is "why"]

[http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;cd=5&amp;ved=0CEYQtwIwBA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DKv9vMzXJbho&amp;ei=gwNLTp7_DYKNmQWsreT3Bw&amp;usg=AFQjCNHC3B3ra2-ocXu4_3buuFtFIIz6lw HHO scam busted by dateline NBC]

[http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Hydrogen%20Enriched%20Hydrocarbon%20Combustion.pdf A serious probe showing how Hydrogen helps Hydrocarboon Combustion Performance and Emissions]

[http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=183 A big thread of testimonials]

[http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Post-Your-Results Another big thread of testimonials]

[http://www.panacea-bocaf.org/hydroxygas.htm Open Community talking about Hydroxy Gas (HHO)]

[http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/references-validating-hho-technology HHO is NOT Scam]

[http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19770016170_1977016170.pdf NASA talking about this]

[http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Hydroxy%20Boosters.pdf 343 Pages Open Source Document about HHO Boosters]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Tornado insert</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>100</id>
  <revision>
    <id>101</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:37:34Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "Popular Mechanics and UTI dyno tested this and other such products and mods. For this particular product, the TornadoFuelSaver, they cite a 10% decrease in peak hp and found n..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="351" xml:space="preserve">Popular Mechanics and UTI dyno tested this and other such products and mods. For this particular product, the TornadoFuelSaver, they cite a 10% decrease in peak hp and found no conclusive difference in fuel economy. What do you expect from an air intake obstruction? &lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
http://www.popular-mechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932</text>
    <sha1>9c0db106c2b3d5d31b97bb2d4818c9628f53ccc8</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180708213606|51">
  <title>Nitrogen tire inflation</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>101</id>
  <revision>
    <id>102</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:37:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] &lt;br&gt; Filling your tires with Nitrogen is a service..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="4846" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
&lt;br&gt;
Filling your tires with Nitrogen is a service offered by some tire shops, repair facilities, and even car dealers. While typically it costs about $6 USD/tire, the service may be free or may be used to scam misinformed consumers out potentially hundreds of dollars. Alternatively, you can fill your tires with nitrogen yourself with the proper equipment. There is a good deal of argument about the benefits of Nitrogen filled tires in passenger vehicles.
&lt;br&gt;
== Theory &amp; Practice ==
Atmospheric air is comprised of about 78% Nitrogen already. Oxygen accounts for another 21%, and the other 1% largely of water vapor, CO2, and noble gases like Argon and Neon. That's right, your tires are filled mostly with Nitrogen already. But it's the other 22% of that atmospheric air where the benefit is to be had. The Nitrogen going into your tires is only about 93% pure, so truly you would only be affecting about 15% of the tires air.

Nitrogen is less likely to migrate through the rubber walls of the tire than is Oxygen and also reacts much less to changes in temperature. The result is less fluxuation in tire pressure over a greater distance and span of time, cooler tires, and decreased wear. It's heavily used in motor racing for these reasons and for the added benefit of allowing crews to fine tune tire pressure for the track's learning curve and variable conditions. The average passenger car driver will notice this in the car's slighlty improved handling, fuel economy, and in fewer trips to the tire store and the air compressor. Maintaining proper tire pressure is key for fuel economy, so perhaps it will mean fewertrips to the gas station, in the grand scheme of things.

In theory, replacing atmospheric air with nitrogen would also slightly lighten the wheel assemblies, huge contributors to unsprung weight on any vehicle, thereby decreasing rolling resistance and increasing aerodynamic and thus fuel efficiency. Granted, this is at the molecular level, which is largely immeasurable by the typical DIYer.

It may also help prevent wheel and tire rot by expelling corrosive water from the inside of the tire.

== Instructions for mod ==
For anyone without access to bottled nitrogen gas or a nitrogen generator, they will need to take their vehicle and/or wheels to a shop that offers this service.
To properly do this mod, the oxygen and moisture in the tires need to be purged. This cannot be accomplished with a single filling alone. The tires need to be filled  with nitrogen and depressurized several times before being properly inflated in order to remove the water and atmospheric air content entirely. A shop typically accomplishes this with an automated machine attached to their air compressor that purges the compressed air of Oxygen and other elements before automatically inflating and deflating the tire several times.

== User experiences  ==
The following is a poorly conducted and unscientific single user test, the parameters of which are entirely undefined here, and the results of which should be taken with a grain of salt - which, oddly enough, is approximately the size of this individuals understanding of the scientific method.
&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|oil pan 4 || 1984 Chevy Suburban (displacement, tire &amp; rim size?), 1985 Chevy Camaro (dtr?), 1999 Toyota Tacoma (dtr?) w/ a utility trailer || $0 wasted || 1 Hour || N/A || N/A || No improvements noted || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}
&lt;br&gt;
Why were no mileage figures given for before/after? If there was no change, you still provide figures for your baseline. How else can anyone be sure that there was no effect or that they have even tested and controlled for it? Under what conditions were those tests performed? Same day, same track? It is not science without data.
&lt;br&gt;
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
It is largely unnecessary as atmospheric air works fine for 99% of vehicle applications and the benefits of Nitrogen are marginal. Gains would likely be difficult to measure, and a proper ABA test would be impractical for the typical DIYer, if not outright expensive.

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/nitrogen-tires-18454.html nitrogen tires]

=== External links ===
[http://www.barrystiretech.com/nitrogeninflation.html Best link on the internet for real tire info]
[http://www.getnitrogen.org/savebillions/index.php get nitrogen dot org]
[http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/should-you-fill-your-cars-tires-with-nitrogen.html]</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Hypermiling Techniques</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:39:00Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;  Ecomodder has an impressive list of hypermiling tips. This is the main wiki page for the list and links to details about these tips. &lt;br..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="44003" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;

Ecomodder has an impressive list of hypermiling tips. This is the main wiki page for the list and links to details about these tips. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;
All hypermilers are encouraged to modify the pages contained in these links with their own experiences. For all tips please only list scientifically backed information and please provide references where appropriate. Efficiency improvement results should only be based on back to back tests with the same conditions. If there is no proven tested efficiency improvement listed, hypermilers are welcome to list an estimated efficiency improvement however please state that it is an estimate.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;
Any theoretical and untested tips please only include in the unproven mod section below.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;
As this is a wiki please note anything you place into the wiki can be overwritten or deleted by other users.

For any significant change suggestions to this page please discuss on the forum linked below

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-hypermiling-page-thread-hypermiling-wiki-main-page-14457.html Main Hypermiling Tip Page Forum Discussion Link]

Drivers can also perform modifications to their cars for higher efficiency gains. See below for a wiki with a comprehensive list.

[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main|Car Efficiency Modifications Wiki]]

== Getting started  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|'''Drive less''' || ∞ || miles not driven is a popular way to measure this || a) Live closer to work;

b) carpool;

c) bicycle;

d) walk;

e) take public transit 
|-
|'''Attend a driving clinic''' || Need user data||  ||
|-
| '''Reduce car weight''' || Need user data|| the additional weight you carry in your vehicle doesn't ride for free. It takes energy to move it around. || [[Weight_reduction]]
|-
| '''Let the most efficient driver drive'''|| Need user data || More than one licensed driver in the vehicle? Let the most efficient driver drive! And take the opportunity to learn from his/her wisdom. || 
|-
| '''Join a fuel economy forum'''|| 10.6% (one user) || Join an outstanding forum to learn ways to increase your fuel economy by talking to others who share your enthusiasm and goals.  || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/register.php Join EcoModder]
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/193129-post51.html]
|-
|'''Remove unused roof racks''' || 14.6% Single user || If your vehicle come with a roof rack and you don't use it, remove it. Same holds true for bike racks. Doing so will reduce aerodynamic drag, resulting in better fuel economy.  || [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Roof_rack Aerodynamic mods: Removing roof rack]
|-
|'''Check tire inflation regularly''' || Need user data || Make sure that your tire pressures are, at minimum, set to manufacturer specifications. the higher the pressure, the less rolling resistance.  || [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Increase_tire_pressure_to_max_sidewall Tire pressure more info]
|-
| '''Track your fuel consumption'''||  None by its self, can be used to modify driving||  One of the first steps in improving efficiency is tracking fuel consumption. While tank to tank feedback isn't ideal for feedback on driving technique, recording and minoring your "big picture" can be great motivation.  || [http://www.ecomodder.com/blog/2008/05/19/hypermiling-101-tracking-fuel-consumption/ EcoDriving 101 – Tracking Fuel Consumption]
|-
|'''Use a fuel consumption display''' || 27.8% average based on 2 users || Feedback is absolutely critical to improving driving habits. ||[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/ScanGauge_OBD-II_computer Most popular: ScanGauge]
[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino_DIY_fuel_consumption_computer DIY: MPGuino and others ]
|}

== Route selection and trip timing  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|'''Take the road less traveled''' || will all more driving change || Generally speaking, if you have the option of choosing lightly traveled roads over busier ones, you give yourself more flexibility to employ a wider range of fuel saving techniques than if you are surrounded by other vehicles. || 
|-
|'''Leave early and don't rush''' || will all more driving change || the enemy of efficient driving is finding yourself in a rush. Leave for your destination a little early so you don't feel pressure to drive faster, brake later and otherwise fall back into bad habits. || 
 |-
|'''Crosswind barrier''' ||  I know it helps me but we need more user data  || Headwinds aren't the only winds that increase fuel consumption - cross winds can have a large negative effect as well. In crosswind conditions, choosing a route with a barrier (trees or buildings) along the edge will save fuel compared to a road in the open. || [[Crosswind barrier details ]]
 |-
|'''the 'corridor effect'''' || Need user data || All else being equal, traveling at a constant speed on a freeway within a flow of traffic (in the same direction) is more efficient than going the same speed in isolation. the reason is aerodynamic: a flow of traffic generates a localized wind current in the direction of travel. You will benefit from this artificial breeze.  || 
 |-
|'''Note your transition points''' || Need user data || If you regularly travel the same roads, make a conscious effort to note (memorize) the points along the way where transitions occur that maximize efficiency. EG. memorize where you can initiate a coast to just make it to the next stop sign. Or note at what speed you can crest a hill so you're traveling just fast enough for the next transition after the descent.  || 
 |-
|'''Time your gas station trips''' || Need user data || Plan to refuel your car during off-peak times to avoid lines and excessive idling.  || 
 
|-
|'''Avoid drive-thrus''' || Need user data || Avoid drive thru windows. They lead to excessive idling. || 
  |-
|'''Lane of least resistance''' || Need user data || In multi-lane traffic, choose the "lane of least resistance" to avoid unnecessary and unpredictable braking/changes in speed. EG. avoid lanes where buses are starting and stopping, or cars may be braking unpredictably to turn into driveways/parking lot entrances. || 
    |-
|'''Avoid stops at bottom of hills''' || Need user data || Avoid roads with stops at the bottom of hills (which force you to brake and waste the kinetic energy you just gained going downhill).  || 
    |-
|'''Take advantage of the wind''' || Need user data || If possible, time trips to take advantage of strong tailwinds. Avoid setting out into strong headwinds/crosswinds.  || 
    |-
|'''Choose smooth road surfaces''' || Need user data || Choose a route with a smooth, paved/concrete surface over gravel or rough, broken roads, all else being equal. Smoother surfaces offer reduced rolling resistance.  || 
    |-
|'''Avoid bad weather''' || Need user data || Avoid driving in inclement weather if possible, as rain/snow/slush can dramatically increase rolling resistance. the exception to this rule may be when high winds (tailwinds) can be used to your advantage. || 
    |-
|'''Avoid peak traffic''' || Need user data || If you have the option, avoid travel during peak traffic times. With the roads full of other drivers, you have fewer options for using driving techniques that the herd doesn't typically use or tolerate (e.g. reduced highway speeds, drawn out coasting up to stop signs, etc).  || 
    |-
|'''Drive when it's warm out''' || Need user data || If you have the flexibility, time your trips to coincide with warm temperatures (ie. middle of the day) rather than cold (night/early morning). Cold tires and drive train experience more rolling and mechanical resistance, and a cold engine is less efficient.  || 
    |-
|'''Pick up cargo "high", deliver "low"''' || Need user data || If possible, shop at stores that are higher in elevation than your home. That way the extra weight you pick up (shopping items) is on board for the descending return leg where it's less of a penalty than it would be on an ascending return leg.  || 
  
|}

== Sub/urban driving  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|'''Conserve momentum: stop sign 'stop and crawl'''' || Need user data || When multiple vehicles ahead of you are progressing through a stop sign (or a right turn at a red light), this represents a mini 'stop and crawl' situation normally found in a bumper to bumper traffic jam. Time your approach, to arrive at the stop sign as the last car ahead is departing.  || 
 |-
|'''Conserve momentum: take a shortcut''' || Need user data || Sometimes options exist to go through corner parking lots, side streets, or alleyways to get around having to come to a stop at an intersection or behind another vehicle. Of course the utmost care must be taken in parking lots as they present their own risks (pedestrians, vehicles reversing from parking spots, etc.) Also, cutting through corner parking lots may be illegal in some areas. || 
 |-
|'''Combining errands: do the longest leg first''' || Need user data || When combining multiple trips into one journey, go to your farthest destination first, and work your way back. This ensures the vehicle is warmed up as much as possible before subjecting it to multiple starts and stops.  || 
 |-
|'''Minimize idling when stopped''' || Need user data || If you're going to be stopped for more than a few seconds, shift to neutral and shut off your engine. This is one of the main reasons hybrid vehicles get such good fuel economy in urban driving. Caveat 1: this assumes your vehicle is in good tune and will re-start immediately, every time. Caveat 2: if you're a defensive driver, you're habitually evaluating the risk of a rear crash when slowing and when stopped. Obviously you will want to leave your engine on in those circumstances (for a quick rear crash avoidance maneuver).  || 
 |-
|'''Traffic light timing - stale 'green', no pedestrian signal''' || Need user data || In the absence of any other indication about how stale the light is (eg. if there's no pedestrian signal or waiting cross traffic), assume that the green light ahead is about to change. Adjust your approach speed accordingly (IF traffic permits - ie. you don't hold anyone up) to avoid a full-on brake application should the light change. || 
 |-
|'''Combine errands''' || Need user data || Avoid very short trips. If you have multiple stops, plan them to do all on the same trip. Fuel economy is enhanced once the engine is warmed up, so a longer "chain" of errands will result in better fuel economy than multiple short ones, particularly in cold weather.  || 
 |-
|'''Traffic light timing - red lights with sensors''' || Need user data || When approaching a red light, slow down early if there's a car in front of you that can trip the sensor so you may not have to come to a complete stop. || 
 |-
|'''Traffic light timing - 'stale' green''' || Need user data || When approaching an intersection with a green light you can watch the pedestrian signal crossing light to help determine when it will turn yellow.  || 
 
|}

== Highway Driving  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|'''Lights on for safety; lights off for MPG''' || Need user data || Depending on the vehicle, power demands of the ighting system ranges from a few watts to well over 100 watts, all of which is ultimately powered by gasoline. In the US, where DRL implementation is voluntary, automakers have an exemption from CAFE testing which permits vehicles' fuel economy to be tested with the lights switched off. Switching off DRLs where their safety contribution is minimal (eg. driving on a divided, controlled access highway) will save a small amount of fuel.  || 
|-
|'''Find/adopt a 'blocker' for slower freeway speeds''' || Need user data || Some people are uncomfortable driving at speeds less than the average flow of traffic on multi-lane freeways. One solution is to find another vehicle going the speed you want to travel (large, conspicuous vehicles work particularly well) and drive either ahead of or behind it. (Note: this is not a suggestion to draft.)  || 
|-
|'''Close the sunroof at higher speeds''' || Need user data || Some sunroof styles are better than others. the worst offenders are the kind which tilt and slide to the outside, on top of the roof. When open, these "roof-top spoilers" can significantly increase aerodynamic drag.  || 
|-
|'''Drafting: cross wind''' || Need user data || In rare circumstances, it is possible to effectively "draft" a larger vehicle in cross wind conditions without  following directly behind it. When cross wind conditions cause the low pressure area trailing the lead vehicle to extend into adjacent lanes, you can take advantage of reduced drag legally and with reduced risk. Note: 1) this is not describing side-by-side driving, but postioning that is offset to the rear. 2) While visibility directly ahead is increased, a significant chunk of the driving picture may still be blocked depending on the size of the lead vehicle.  || 
|-
|'''Drafting: close behind (not recommended!)''' || Mythbusters results from drafting a truck&lt;br&gt;100 ft: 10.9%&lt;br&gt;50 ft: 20.3%&lt;br&gt;20 ft: 26.5%&lt;br&gt; 10ft: 39%&lt;br&gt;2 ft: 28.1%  || 1) At highway speeds there's no doubt that driving close behind a large vehicle dramatically reduces fuel consumption. 2) It's a stupid thing to do.  It's not recommended for many reasons, not the least of which is that it's illegal in most areas, and doing so sacrifices the foundation of safe and defensive driving: your ability to see well ahead.  || 

|-
|'''Windows Up''' || Need user data || Drive with windows up at higher speeds to minimize aerodynamic drag. Use flow-through ventilation if possible.  ||
 
|-
|'''Reduce speed''' || Need user data || Aerodynamic drag increases exponentially with speed, so reduce highway cruising speed as much as practical and safe. Generally, a vehicle's most efficient speed is just after its highest gear has engaged. || 
[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Image:Fuel_economy_vs_speed_1997.png MPG vs speed graph]

[http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-reducing-speed/ EcoDriving 101 – Reducing Speed]
|-
|'''Constant throttle position cruising''' || Need user data || Once up to speed, pick a throttle position and hold it. Advantages: more efficient than using the cruise control (which varies throttle position frequently and wastes fuel on hills). Disadvantages: less efficient than "driving with load" (DWL) / "target driving" (where the throttle is eased on inclines). || 
|-
|'''Cruise control - when to use it''' || Need user data || Set the cruise control if you're the type of driver whose speed creeps up higher and higher the longer you're on the road, or if you have difficulty holding a steady speed (it wanders up and down). But realize that cruise control is just a band aid for those behaviours. Generally it's less efficient than constant throttle driving, and much less efficient than "driving with load" / "target driving".  || 
|-
|'''Cruise control - when not to use it''' || Need user data || Only use cruise control on flat roads. On hilly roads, cruise responds to changes in grade - by feeding in more throttle on the uphill and releasing on the descent - in the exact opposite way an efficient driver would. || 
|}

== Braking tips  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|'''the most efficient way to slow down''' || Need user data || When you *have* to slow down, here's an approximate heirarchy of methods, from best to worst. 1) coasting in neutral, engine off (ie. roll to a stop);
2) coasting in neutral, engine idling;
3) regenerative coasting (hybrid vehicles)
4) regenerative braking (hybrid vehicles)
5) coasting in "deceleration fuel cut-off" mode (in gear, above a certain engine RPM)
6) conventional friction braking (non-hybrid or hybrid)
Choosing the right method depends on traffic conditions (following vehicles) and how quickly you need to stop. 
 || 
 |-
|'''Conserve momentum: avoid stopping''' || Need user data || Avoid coming to a complete stop whenever possible (and when safe and legal of course). It takes much less energy to accelerate a vehicle when it's already traveling just a few kilometers per hour than it does from a complete stop.  || 
 |-
|'''Hybrids: minimize regen braking''' || Need user data || While regenerative braking in hybrid vehicles - capturing braking energy into the battery - is more efficient than braking with conventional friction brakes, it's still not as efficient as 'driving without brakes' (DWB). So even if you drive a hybrid, you'll get better economy when you minimize use of the brake pedal. 
 || 
 |-
|'''"Drive without brakes" (DWB)''' || Need user data || Minimize use of the brake pedal. Each time you press it, you're effectively converting gasoline into brake dust and heat. Driving as if you have no brakes will cause you to do two things: 1) reduces 'excessive' acceleration, and, 2) extends the amount of time you spend coasting down to stops and turns. Obviously you have to balance use of this technique against traffic conditions so as not to adversely affect other drivers. || [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-driving-without-brakes/ EcoDriving 101 – Driving Without Brakes]
 
|}

== Advanced techniques  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|-
|'''Drive shoeless''' || Need user data || Some hardcore hypermilers drive in sock or bare feet so they can modulate the accelerator to the finest degree (particularly important when "driving with load" / "target MPG driving" at cruise.

It shouldn't be that surprising. Race car drivers typically wear extremely thin-sole boots for similar reasons: for the highest level of tactile feedback from the vehicle, and to better finesse the pedals.  
|| 
|-
|'''Conserve momentum: brake hard''' || Need user data || It sounds like a contradiction, but there are rare times when braking hard can save fuel compared to coasting or light braking: it's a "damage control" technique when faced with an unpredictable/unanticipated stop or slow down ahead and not a lot of space.

An example: approaching a fresh red traffic light that had no other indicators to predict the change (no pedestrian signal and no cars waiting on the cross street). If you brake lightly/moderately, you will cover the entire distance to the intersection and have no option but coming to a full stop.

But if you brake quite hard initially, you can potentially scrub enough speed and buy enough time to coast the remaining distance to the intersection at a low speed. With judgment and some luck, you'll arrive at a fresh green light and avoid a full stop.

Obviously, rapid deceleration isn't a safe option if there is following traffic. 
|| 
|-
|'''Make fuel economy a game/challenge''' || Need user data || Competing against yourself (or others) to get the best possible fuel economy can do wonders for increasing motivation to learn more, refine your skills, and try harder.

Several web sites like EcoModder.com permit you to track and compare your fuel economy against other drivers, and some organize informal fuel economy challenges.

Hybrid festivals (e.g. hybridfest.com, greengrandprix.com) periodically run fuel efficiency rallies where you can hone your skills in competition with others in real time. 
|| 
|-
|'''Use the 'racing line'''' || Need user data || Knowing how to pick the "racing line" through a corner, when safe, can help to preserve momentum. Generally, the racing line is the path through a turn with the largest possible radius. It may permit a higher speed with more comfort (less body roll and g-forces), and less tire scrub.

Note this isn't advocating high speed turns, where the cost of increased tire wear may outstrip fuel savings. Even at low speeds, choosing the "racing line" has benefits.  
|| 
|-
|'''Encourage a pass: the fake turn''' || Need user data || Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past safely, with a minimum of interruption.

"Faking" a turn by signalling and moving into a turning lane (even though you intend to continue straight on) is one option.

Note: judgment and care is demanded so you don't mislead any driver into making an unwanted move as a result of your "miscommunication". You must be prepared to actually make the turn if your actions create a situation that would make it the safest option.  
|| 
|-
|'''Encourage a pass: hug right''' || Need user data || Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past, rather than force them to slow down.

One method of gaining the attention of the driver behind is to move your vehicle very obviously to the extreme right of the lane you're traveling in when it's safe for the following vehicle to pass.

Adding a turn signal to the move or the 4-way flashers may be even more effective.

Of course, pulling completely off the roadway onto the shoulder to let following traffic by is also worthwhile, if you have the option.  
|| 
|-
|'''Hill tactic: don't waste potential energy''' || Need user data || When facing a red traffic light, or some other predictable stop/start situation at the bottom of a hill, you're better off stopping near the top before you've accelerated to full speed. Wait, and time your release to make it through on green, and you avoid turning your potential energy into brake dust and heat. (Also known as 'smart braking'.)  
|| 
|-
|'''Engine off coasting''' || 24% difference between engine off compared to idle coasting &lt;br&gt; Single user || Engine-off coasting (EOC) is one of the largest contributors to increased efficiency of hybrid vehicles, many of which automatically shut down the engine when the accelerator is released and the vehicle is coasting.

EOC can be accomplished in non-hybrids as well simply by shifting to neutral and switching the key from "Run" to "Acc" (being careful not to switch to "Off" and cause the steering to lock). As soon as the engine stops, return the key to the "Run" position or else you will be in danger of locking out your steering and crashing. Also be careful to not steer at all while the key is off to prevent a lock up.

This technique is best suited to cars with manual steering and manual transmissions. (Dramatically increased steering effort may be required in some cars with power assist. Also, most vehicles with automatic transmissions are not designed to travel with the engine shut off; the transmission may be damaged).

In non-hybrids, EOC is considered an advanced technique and should not be attempted until the skill developed away from traffic. In addition, coasting with the engine off is illegal in some areas.

the best way to EOC is with a kill switch that shuts off the engine without removing the key, thereby eliminating the dangers of locking the steering wheel.

Note: When the engine is off the brake vacuum reserve is not recharged by the engine therefore drivers with the engine off will only get a few brake presses before the brakes no longer work.
|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/quick-test-p-g-eoc-vs-w-o-14643.html Quick Test: P&amp;G with EOC vs w/o EOC shows 24% gain]
|-
|'''Drive with load (DWL)''' || Need user data || AKA "target driving". Put most simply, this technique is accomplished by choosing a "target" rate of fuel consumption and ensuring you don't fall below it on hills (or in very strong winds, or any conditions which cause load to vary for a given speed).

In other words, you will back off the accelerator and lose speed (possibly also downshifting) as you climb, and gain that speed back on the descent.

It's far more efficient than pressing the accelerator more and more to maintain speed on the way up a hill and then releasing it down the other side.

DWL is how an efficiency minded person can greatly outperform cruise control in hilly terrain.

Obviously the ability to use this technique without adversely affecting other drivers depends on the traffic situation.

As well, fuel economy instrumentation is required to DWL/target drive to the maximum extent, though it can also be done using a vacuum gauge, and to a much lesser extent by the seat of the pants.  
|| 
|-
|'''Heavy traffic: play the accordion''' || Need user data || If faced with worst-case "stop &amp; crawl" traffic conditions, leave as much space ahead of you as possible and continually "accordion" that space to keep your vehicle moving near a constant speed while the cars in front of you stop &amp; start.

Yes, some people will cut into the space you create ahead of you. Deal with it.

Note that this may aggravate following drivers who can't absorb the big picture, and that must be taken into account.  
|| 
|-
|'''Pulse and glide (P&amp;G)''' || 30% improvement estimate || Use pulse and glide (or "burn and coast") rather than maintaining a constant speed, where practical. || [http://www.metrompg.com/posts/pulse-and-glide.htm Pulse and glide explained]
|-
|'''Push it - 1''' || Need user data || If you only have to move your car a very short distance - eg. out of the garage - consider rolling it rather than starting it up to move it.  || 
|-
|'''Push it - 2''' || Need user data || If you're starting out on an incline, give your car a shove to get it rolling as far as possible before starting the engine.  || 

 
|}

==  Parking (and departing)  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To
|-
|'''Start up: wait for the opportunity to move''' || Need user data || Don't start the engine until there's actually an opportunity to start driving: eg. a gap in traffic when exiting a driveway or parking space.

You can plan even further ahead: don't turn the key until you know you can time the next traffic light down the street. 
|| 
|-
|'''Parking tactics: orbit to bleed momentum''' || Need user data || If you find you have too much momentum after reaching your preferred parking spot, continue coasting further down the row or "orbiting" a spot until you can roll to a stop in position without touching the brakes.

(the extent to which you might continue 'orbiting' depends on whether your engine is on/off and whether you're driving a manual or automatic. Also, it depends on traffic in the lot, obviously.) 
|| 
|-
|'''Parking tactics: gravity assist''' || Need user data || Slopes can be useful in manoeuvering into a parking place. One which I regularly back into (it can't be driven through) has a small slope across from it. I kill the engine approaching the slope, and engine-off coast backwards into the spot.

Gravity can be a hindrance in parking as well. Avoid driving down into a parking "hole" which you must drive out of later. Even if you EOC into the hole, you'll face a net efficiency loss when you drive your cold vehicle up and out later.  
|| 
|-
|'''Parking tactics: avoid parallel parking''' || Need user data || For on-street parking, the better spot is one with enough room to pull in/out rather than multiple reverse/forward manoeuvering (parallel parking).  
|| 
|-
|'''Parking tactics: reverse in''' || Need user data || If you have no pull-through spots to choose from, reverse in when arriving, instead of driving in when warm and backing out/turning around when the vehicle is cold and fuel economy is at its worst.

Also note that reversing into a flow of traffic is riskier (and therefore much slower and less efficient) because you may not have a clear view until your vehicle's back end is well out of the space.  
|| 
|-
|'''Parking tactics: pick the periphery''' || Need user data || Choosing a spot in the "periphery" of a busy lot will be more efficient than navigating the rows of traffic/pedestrians to get as close as possible to the building or destination.  
|| 
|-
|'''Parking tactics: pull-through spot''' || Need user data || Drive into a "pull through" spot, rather than a spot that requires reverse/forward manoeuvering.  || 
|-
|'''Start up: not until you're adjusted''' || Need user data || Don't start the vehicle until you're settled in: seat, seatbelt &amp; mirrors adjusted; passengers settled in as well.  || 
|-
|'''Multiple vehicles: choose the one that's warmed up''' || Need user data || In a multi-vehicle household, if you have the choice of using similar vehicles, choose the one that was driven most recently if it's still warm.  || 
|-
|'''Multiple vehicles: choose the most efficient one in the 'fleet'''' || Need user data || If you have a multi-vehicle household or workplace, choose the most efficient vehicle from the fleet that will accomplish the task at hand.  || 
|-
|'''When changing direction, use brakes rather than engine''' || Need user data || When going from reverse to a forward gear (or vice versa), don't use the engine to stop the vehicle after the gear change, use the brake.  || 
 
|}

==  Transmission tips  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|-
|'''Automatic transmission: key off, then Park''' || Need user data || Save a few drops of fuel by modifying your shutdown procedure: when parking, turn off the key *before* shifting to Park and setting the parking brake.  || 
|-
|'''Manual transmission: cruise in high gear''' || Need user data || When cruising at a constant speed, shift to the highest gear you can use without lugging the engine.  || 
|-
|'''Automatic transmission: highest gear/lowest RPM for posted speed''' || Need user data || When cruising, drive to the speed that allows the lowest RPM for the speed zone you are in.

EG. if the posted speed is 30 and your car shifts into 3rd at 35, you may be able to achieve the 3rd gear shift, then reduce and hold 30 without causing a downshift.  
|| 
|-
|'''Automatic transmission: torque converter (TC) lockup''' || Need user data || Drive at the speed that allows the TC (torque converter) to lock up. This is often around 40-45 mph. Speeds just above this typically return the higest cruising fuel economy. || 
|-
|'''Automatic transmission: neutral when stopped''' || Need user data || Shift automatic transmissions to neutral when stopped (assuming you're going to leave the engine running). Remaining in drive wastes fuel as the engine continues to try to creep the car forward while being held back by the brakes. 
Note: Some older cars which do not compensate the idle speed depending on engine load may use more fuel when in idle as the RPMs will go higher and therefore pump more fuel through the engine. Check your fuel usage meter to be sure. 
|| 
|-
|'''Automatic transmission: upshift coaxing''' || Need user data || Some automatic transmissions can be coaxed to upshift sooner when accelerating by briefly releasing some throttle pressure, then re-applying to continue accelerating.  || 
|-
|'''Automatic transmission: use OD (overdrive)''' || Need user data || If your transmission has an "OD" (overdrive) button or position, leave it engaged to ensure the transmission will shift into its highest gear as soon as possible.  || 
|-
|'''Automatic transmission: use economy mode''' || Need user data || If your automatic transmission has a "power/economy" button, leave it in economy mode. This usually results in earlier upshifts and later downshifts, saving fuel.  || 

|}

==  Winter / foul weather  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|-
|'''Wait for the snow plow''' || Need user data || Driving through fresh snow increases rolling resistance moderately to dramatically, depending on the depth/type of snow. Better fuel economy will result when you wait for the plows (or for other vehicles to pack the snow down) before setting out.

Similarly, getting stranded in a ditch or snow drift because you set out in bad weather is a surefire way to waste fuel if you need to idle the car to stay warm while waiting for help.  
|| 
|-
|'''Winter: avoid wheel spin on ice/snow''' || Need user data || If you drive in ice/snow, avoid wheelspin when traction is low. Changing to dedicated snow/ice tires that offer better traction may save fuel.

Wheelspin is especially inefficient if your vehicle is equipped with brake assisted traction control.  
|| 
|-
|'''Follow the leader in rain or snow''' || Need user data || In weather conditions that leave a lot of precipitation on the road - heavy rain or snow - drive in the tiretracks of the vehicle in front to reduce rolling resistance.

An exception to this tip may be on "rutted" surfaces where water tends to pool in the ruts. In that case, driving on the ridges between the ruts offers less resistance.  
|| 
|-
|'''Winter: clean off snow &amp; ice''' || Need user data || Completely clear snow &amp; ice off your vehicle before driving. It will minimize your use of energy hungry accessories (defrosters), remove an aerodynamic penalty (increased frontal area), and reduce weight (a layer of ice and snow over an entire vehicle can weigh a surprising amount).  || 
|-
|'''Winter parking: clean out the garage''' || Need user data || If you have one, clean out your garage so you can park your car inside during the cold months of the year. the faster warm up will return better fuel economy. || 
|-
|'''Winter: use heated parking''' || Need user data || If you've got the choice, heated parking will improve fuel economy. the potential downside is that it may increase the rate of corrosion if you drive where roads are salted.  || 
|-
|'''Avoid heater use until the engine has reached operating temperature''' || Need user data || Engines runs rich until a minimum temperature threshold is reached. Running the heater blower before that has happened will slightly increase warm-up time and increase fuel consumption.  || 
|-
|'''Avoid 'warm up' idling''' || Need user data || Don't idle your engine to warm it on a cold day. An idling engine gets zero miles per gallon.

Start to drive - under light loads - as soon as the engine is running smoothly (usually immediately). It's a more efficient way to warm the engine and entire drivetrain, including tires.  
|| 
|}

==  Hot weather  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|-
|'''Cycle the A/C if you have to use it''' || Need user data || If you have to use the air conditioner, set the air flow to recirculate and manually turn the A/C on and off as needed. For greater efficiency, switch it on when under light engine loads or deceleration fuel cut off and off when under moderate/heavy loads. (Note: some newer vehicles do this automatically.)  
|| 
|-
|'''Summer: park in the shade''' || Need user data || Parking in the shade will keep the inside of your vehicle cooler, which can help you minimize use of air conditioning.

If you must park in the sun, placing a sunshade in your windshield will keep your car significantly cooler. 
||
|-
|'''Lightly colored interior''' || Need user data || Seats that are white or light tan absorb much less head than black or dark brown seats.
   
||
|-
|'''Use a beaded seat cover''' || Need user data || They work surprisingly well as an alternative to (or defer the use of) air conditioning, by letting air flow behind &amp; beneath you. They keep you from sticking to your seat, and your clothes from sticking to you.

Other non-A/C options include ice vests and DIY ice water A/C units.  
||
|-
|'''Minimize air conditioning use''' || Need user data || Air conditioning requires a lot of power. Use it sparingly.
Driving at city speeds, you'll save fuel by using your flow through vents and opening windows.

At highway speeds, whether A/C is more or less efficient than opening windows will depend on the speed, your vehicle's aerodynamics and A/C design.  
||

|-
|'''Maximum legal tint''' || Depends on many factors || Have your front windows &amp; windshield tinted to the maximum allowed in your state, and have the rear windows &amp; rear windshield tinted as much as possible. Note: states can only regulate the tint amount on the front windows and windshield.
||
|-
|'''Trip timing: avoid the hottest times of day to reduce A/C use''' || Need user data || If you live where the weather is very hot, avoid driving if possible during the peak temperatures of the day when use of the air conditioner is "required."  ||
|}

==  Just generally good driving tips  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|-
|'''Maintain a space cushion''' || Need user data || When driving on a multi-lane roadway, try to maintain a "space cushion" around you.

IE. avoid driving for any length of time beside a vehicle in the next lane. the more options you leave open for making a prompt lane change if one is needed, the afer and more efficient you'll be (if it means avoiding an unnecessary slowdown).  
|| 
|-
|'''Maintain appropriate following distance''' || Need user data || Avoid driving so close behind another vehicle that you are forced to *immediately* brake if it begins slowing down. Important at all times, but particularly in sub/urban driving where traffic changes speed more often.

Leave enough space that you have time to choose other options (perhaps a lane change).

In addition, the greater your following distance, the better your forward visibility will be, which enables you to look well ahead and anticipate changes in the driving environment.  
|| 
|-
|'''Be smooth''' || Need user data || Smooth use of the accelerator, steering, transmission and brakes is not only more comfortable for you and your passengers, it's also a little more efficient (less scrubbing of tires, energy lost through suspension movement). It's also better for the longevity of the vehicle and in general a sign of a skilled driver.  || 
|-
|'''Use your horn defensively''' || Need user data || Defensive drivers will tap their horns to ensure they have the attention of other motorists or pedestrians in close quarters and potentially risky situations.

Being proactive will save fuel if it means you can avoid having to brake or stop unnecessarily. 
|| 
|-
|'''Look well ahead &amp; anticipate''' || Need user data || Your ability to drive efficiently depends on being able to anticipate changes in the driving environment. the way to do this is by constantly scanning well ahead in your intended path.

In city driving you should know what's happening at least 10-15 seconds ahead. On the freeway, at least 30 seconds visual lead time is appropriate.  
|| 
|-
|'''Drive the posted speed''' || Need user data || Drive the posted speed limit or the minimum allowed, when safe to do so.  || 
|}

==  Miscellaneous  ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|-
|'''Don't keep up with the Joneses''' || Need user data || It easy to be competitive when driving. Resist knee-jerk retaliation to other drivers' aggressive actions. Don't let other drivers lead you astray from your driving style.  || 
|-
|'''Minimize use of low range''' || Need user data || Many 4 wheel drive / AWD vehicles also come with high and low transmission ranges. Low range increases engine RPM and fuel consumption for a given gear/road speed combination compared to high.  || 
|-
|'''Minimize use of 4 wheel drive''' || Need user data || the added friction of drive components in four wheel drive mode increases fuel consumption, especially when the center differential is locked and the vehicle is turning.  || 
|-
|'''If you have to carry items outside the vehicle...''' || Need user data || Carry them on the back of the vehicle, instead of on the roof. Long, skinny items can even be carried beneath some vehicles (with ample ground clearance).

This is more important the faster and further you intend to go.  
|| 
|-
|'''Minimize accessory loads''' || Need user data || Minimize use of electrical and mechanical accessory loads when safe and/or practical (lights, defrost, blower, electric heated seats, dvd players/screens, heated mirrors, etc).  || 
|-
|'''Use a block heater''' || Need user data || Pre-warm your engine with an electric block heater. Engines are most efficient at full operating temperature, and the block heater helps it get there sooner. About 2 hours is the maximum time needed to pre-warm a small engine.  || 
|-
|'''Drive like you ride a bike''' || Need user data || For you cyclists looking for a way to wrap your head around the subject of efficient motoring: drive like you bike.

Meaning, if you think about spending energy as wisely in your car as you do when you ride, you should automatically become aware of several of the major tips on this list, such as:

a) Ensuring your tires are properly inflated &amp; vehicle is in good mechanical condition, for reduced rolling &amp; mechanical resistance.

b) Smart braking: you'll spend more distance coasting up to stops (you don't pedal madly towards stop signs and then jam on the binders, do you?)

c) You'll "drive with load" on hills (you don't usually power up hills trying to maintain your previous cruising speed, do you?)

d) You'll reduce speed (because cyclists are highly attuned to the relationship between aerodynamic drag and the BIG DOG energy consumed to travel at high speed).  
|| 
|-
|'''Avoid towing''' || Need user data || Trailer towing delivers the triple whammy of increased weight, higher aerodynamic drag, and a third (or fourth) set of tires for more rolling resistance.

Carry loads in the vehicle if possible.

If not, minimize towing speeds and adjust your technique to account for the extra momentum the trailer and its load will add.  
|| 
|-
|'''Listen to slower music''' || Need user data || Leave the speed metal at home. Fast paced music can make a driver more impatient, more agressive and likely to speed. At the same time, slower paced music is more relaxing and tends to promote a more sensible driving style while also reducing stress.  || 
|-
|'''Use E-Z Pass (or similar) if you commute on toll roads/bridges''' || Need user data ||Especially handy for high-speed toll passes, because it avoids the slow down and acceleration back up to speed.

Generally useful anywhere it will help you avoid the stop-and-go/idling in lines approaching the toll booth.  
|| 
|}

== Unproven Tips (Ideas or attempts) ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|}

== Dis-proven tips (Methods that dont work or hurt efficiency) ==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
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|}

== Template ==

[[Car_tip_template|Template for new tip]]</text>
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  <title>EcoDriving 101</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:40:23Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
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      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]  '''Introduction'''  EcoDriving 101 is a regroupment of articles about fuel economy tricks and how to do these technics :  *'''Wikipedia EcoD..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="1038" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]

'''Introduction'''

EcoDriving 101 is a regroupment of articles about fuel economy tricks and how to do these technics :

*'''Wikipedia EcoDriving Page : [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecodriving Fuel economy-maximizing behaviors]'''

== EcoDriving 101 ==

=== EcoDriving 101 : Driving Without Brakes ===
*'''Go to [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-driving-without-brakes/ EcoDriving : Driving Without Brakes].'''

=== EcoDriving 101 : Tracking Fuel Consumption ===
*'''Go to [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-tracking-fuel-consumption/ EcoDriving : Tracking Fuel Consumption].'''

=== EcoDriving 101 : Reducing Speed ===
*'''Go to [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-reducing-speed/ EcoDriving : Reducing Speed].'''

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===

=== External links ===
[http://www.ecomodder.com/blog/ EcoModder Blog]&lt;br&gt;
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecodriving Wikipedia EcoDriving Page]&lt;br&gt;
[http://http://www.carfuelconsumption.com Lowest to Highest MPG cars]</text>
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  <title>Simulation and calculations</title>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;  '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; There is great value in being able to simulate or calculate your cars efficiency and what effects it. This allows..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="2036" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;

'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
There is great value in being able to simulate or calculate your cars efficiency and what effects it. This allows people to concentrate on modifying a particular part of their car that is causing high losses or to evaluate potential modifications which may end up being a waste of time. The links in this wiki page show some methods of calculation and simulation.


'''List of tools, equations or other useful links'''&lt;br&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php Ecomodder speed efficiency calculator]&lt;br&gt;
This online calculator will calculate your cars theoretical fuel efficiency for different speeds taking into account aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, and braking. It will only give efficiency for steady state driving that is on flat ground.


[[Road_Load_Equation|Road Load Equation]] &lt;br&gt;
Wiki page that explains the equations that are used in the ecomodder online tool listed above.


[[Gravity_related_equations|Gravity and inertia related equations]] &lt;br&gt;
Wiki page that explains the effect of gravity and inertia on vehicle speed and energy. This relates to going up and down hills and the effect of car weight.


[[Theoretical_Weight_Energy|Weight effect on efficiency]]&lt;br&gt;
Wiki page that shows calculations to evaluate energy lost when braking and how to approximately equate the lost energy to lost fuel efficiency.


[http://www.flowillustrator.com Flow illustrator]&lt;br&gt;
A free simple online wind tunnel simulator, it can only take in a 2D representation of a car therefore it is not very detailed.


[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/theoretical-gains-weight-reduction-aero-improvements-14953-4.html#post203629n Excel calculator that characterizes braking, aero and rolling losses]&lt;br&gt;
This is a excel calculator posted on the ecomodder forum by RobertSmalls. It takes in a cars speed log which is logged once a second, it then calculates where the energy is lost, through braking or aerodynamic drag or rolling resistance</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt</title>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; ---- [[Image:Revolt_color.jpg]]  == '''Quick Links - Active Open ReVolt Wiki Projects''' ==  Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics|'''*** Open ReV..."</comment>
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----
[[Image:Revolt_color.jpg]]

== '''Quick Links - Active Open ReVolt Wiki Projects''' ==

[[Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics|'''*** Open ReVolt Projects - BOM, Firmware, PCB and Schematic Files ***''']]

[[Open ReVolt/Fab Files|'''*** Open ReVolt Project - Fabrication Files ***''']]

=='''Open ReVolt Disclaimer'''==
*The Open ReVolt “projects” on this Wiki carry no warranty or guarantee of any kind! 
*The electronics and software on this Open ReVolt Wiki have been produced for the benefit of the DIY EV &amp; electronics community. 
*The electronics and software on this Open ReVolt Wiki are available as “open source” for all to user’s or modify or adapt as they see fit; no claims are made to their suitability for any particular function.
*All Open ReVolt electronics and software “projects” on this Wiki are to be used at the user’s own risk; the user should question their experience level before starting a project. 
*If user’s are not fully competent to work on “POTENTIALLY LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGE” battery systems then “DO NOT EXPERIMENT” with the Open ReVolt “projects” on this Wiki. 
*Prospective users will be accepting personal risk when starting an Open ReVolt  “project”, all liability will be exclusively assumed by that user and will not carry over to any other user.
*Be aware that users risk of vehicle modifications could lead to invalidated insurance and warranty issues. The user is fully liable for any modifications made to the vehicle.

----

'''As the name would imply''', Open ReVolt is '''open''', which means all EV Electronics development here happens online for everyone to see. Want to know what a certain circuit, part, or code for this project does and why? It's all in this Wiki and on the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/open-revolt-open-source-dc-motor-controller.html Forum]. In the forum many, many people with different experience levels from all over the world share their new ideas, and suggestions for improvements by watching Open ReVolt Projects for mistakes and potential problems. ''That could be your input too !!!''

The goal of the "Open ReVolt Project" is to make quality and reliable EV Electronics at an '''Affordable''' cost for Amateur EV Conversion. That means being smart with what components are called for, group buying to drive down cost, and taking advantage of generously donated parts, time, and resources.


'''The Open ReVolt "Cougar" DC motor controller''' is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation PWM]-type motor controller designed for sending power to series-wound type DC motors. In its base form, when built using the Bills of Materials for the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board control board] and the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board power board], its components are rated to a 200V maximum voltage,  and can handle up to 500 or 1000 Amps peak power throughput.

'''NOTE: In order to prevent blowout of components and leave some "safety room" in the controller, a maximum battery pack voltage of 144V is recommended.'''

The Open ReVolt is designed to be as '''modular''' as possible. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Control board|control board]]'' houses all the low-voltage electronics - such as microcontrollers, data cables, and throttle cables. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Power board|power board]]'' contains the MOSFETs, capacitors, and diodes, as well as the bus bars which connect to the motor and batteries. To protect the control board from the high voltage components, it is connected to the power board with an optoisolator. The control board uses its own separate 12V battery for power, instead of needing a high-voltage capable DC to DC converter. This helps to reduce cost and simplify the design.

Since the two boards are modular, you can size the power board for your vehicle without affecting the control board. An electric bike and an electric lorry could use the same control board (simply by attaching it to a higher-current power board). The power board can accept any battery voltage from 0 to 144 V.

This wiki is a work in progress.  If you've read through [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html the thread] and can contribute to building this wiki, please [http://ecomodder.com/forum/register.php register] and get to work!

[[Image:open-source-diy-controller.jpg]]

==Frequently Asked Questions==
[[Open ReVolt/FAQ|Frequently Asked Questions]]


=='''Open ReVolt projects'''== 


'''&gt;'''EV 500 Amp DC Motor Controller PCB &amp; Mosfet Power PCBs''' are at Rev2c and here on the wiki.

'''&gt;'''EV 1000 Amp DC Motor Controller, Mosfet Power PCB, and Mosfet Driver PCB''' are on wiki, preliminary development is on going.

'''&gt;'''EV AC Motor Controller PCB -''' is on wiki, preliminary development is on going.

'''&gt;'''EV DC LCD Instrumentation PCB -''' '' is now on wiki !!!''

'''&gt;'''EV 6Kw DC Charger Controller PCB -''' is on wiki, preliminary development is on going.

'''&gt;'''EV BMS Controller PCB -''' ''Was added to the wiki !!!''

'''&gt;'''EV IGBT Driver PCB -''' ''Was added to the wiki !!!''


'''* Planned Future Open ReVolt projects *'''


'''&gt;''' The Uprising '''EV Series DC Motor Controller, and IGBT Driver PCB''' is on wiki, preliminary development is on going.''

==EV 500 &amp; 1000 Amp DC Motor Controller "ReVolt" Features==
*Continuous current rating of 500 or 1000 Amps.
*Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v.
*15.6 kHz switching frequency.
*Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown.
*Hardware over-current shuts down in 3-4 µs. [1]
*RS-232 interface.
*Reprogrammable.
*High pedal lockout.
*The controller will not close the main contactor if the mosfets have failed shorted.
*Protection from many potentially destructive errors: [2]
**Control board power polarity reversed
**12V supply connected to throttle
**Full throttle at 0 RPM

For a more detailed description of what each feature is and does, please see the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Current_Features Current Features] page.

==AC Motor Controller Features==
* Hardware overcurrent protection - Regen can be set anywhere from 0 to 300 amps per phase.
* Positive amp draw limit per phase can be set anywhere in 0 to 300 amps.
* Isolated PWM Drivers (6) - Firmware configurable for ACIM, PMSM, SEPEX, SR, DC motor control.
* Configurations currently supported - ACIM &amp; PMSM motor control.
* Individual Driver DC-DC converters (6) - for scaleable power output (IGBT, MOSFET).
* Isolated driver supplies (6) - Low voltage cutout, (1) below 9v and all (6) drivers are disabled.
* Thermal protection on-board.
* Built in contactor and precharge resistor control.
* Throttle control.
* Communication - RS-232, ISP.

==EV LCD Instrumentation Features==
* The display is 2 line x 16 character backlit LCD with oversized characters
* It displays both readings taken with local A/D and information transmitted serially from the Cougar.
* Displayed info includes:
** pack voltage (isolated circuitry) 0-204V range
** battery amps (Tamura hall sensor input or Cougar’s output) 0-511A range
** motor amps (Cougar output) 
** accessory battery voltage 
** motor temp in C or F (via thermistor)
** controller temp in C or F (Cougar output)
** pack temp in C or F (via thermistor)
* Other features:
** calculation &amp; display of SOC based on battery amp usage (peukert is factored in). 
** calculation &amp; display of MTE (Miles to empty) based on %SOC per mile/km
** momentary switch to toggle between 2 profiles transmitted to controller
** “Mode” LED to indicate when controller runs with alternate profile
** “Overtemp” LED based on independent thresholds for the 3 measured temps
** Alarm output (NPN sinking)
** PWM output of SOC to interface to existing analog fuel gauge
** Canbus and RS232 interfaces (E-Can controller is integrated in the PIC)

==EV 6Kw DC Charger Controller Features==
*Modular design - The control board uses a remote current sense and voltage sense board that allows for high resolution measurement using an energy metering IC. You can daisy chain up to 3 of these boards to the main controller to measure all the sources inside the controller. These would be AC input voltage and current, Power Factor Corrected DC voltage and current, and the only board that is required is DC output to batteries voltage and current. These boards can measure up to 400VDc or 264VAC RMS

*Modular Driver - The driver output section is designed to be customized to your needs, Mosfet or IGBT.

*Graphic Interface - LCD Display is used to select the charging profile.

*Simple Interface - A rotary knob next to the LCD is used to select an item on the LCD display, Then pushing the knob to select or set that item.

*BMS Input - the simple BMS signal that can be either 5 or 12 volts (Jumper Selectable). The input can be used to stop charging when a BMS high cell condition is reached.

*Vehicle Interlock - You will be able to wire ignition or a contactor coil through this relay to disable the vehicle as soon as power is applied to the charger.

*Charger Contactor Control - This will be used to disconnect the battery pack from the charger when the charger is not charging. 

*Ethernet Connectivity - The control board includes a 10TBase Ethernet connection for monitoring or communications.

*Software Features - You will be able to program for charging different vehicles with the same charger.

==EV BMS Controller Features==

* Distributed BMS, Master/Module system supports most popular LiFePo4 Battery Cells.
* Low cost digital BMS uses readily available PIC micros.
* Suitable for LiFePo4 cells with voltages from 2.5V to 4.0V
* BMS Module bolts on LiFePo4 cell terminals, 61mm mounting centers.
* BMS System can handle up to 150 LifePo4 cells.
* Low current drain ~ 1 mA per cell.
* Low voltage alarm.
* Loss of communications alarm.
* Measures all cell voltages and displays the highest and lowest.
* Measures all cell temperatures and displays the highest and lowest.
* Does bottom balancing of cells as required with a balancing current of ~ .5A (1/2 A).
* Balancing automatically cancelled if communications lost (prevents cells being discharged in  the event of failure).
* Can shut off charger when one cell reaches max voltage.


{{Open ReVolt Header}}</text>
    <sha1>97bf45d6e3989f4ae2933026fe189dc1b40788f5</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>EcoModding projects</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>106</id>
  <revision>
    <id>107</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:42:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]] [[Image:wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Ecomodding Projects]] '''/!\ This Page is under construction - Please help it grow /!\'''&lt;br&gt;..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="6175" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]
[[Image:wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Ecomodding Projects]]
'''/!\ This Page is under construction - Please help it grow /!\'''&lt;br&gt;
This is the category where you can link or create a page for your cars modifications&lt;br&gt;

Visitors to this site that want to get better fuel efficiency should find many ways to decrease their fuel usage with independantly tested improvement results, tested by ecomodder users. Visitors that are interested in these modifications or have other ideas may find the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/ ecomodder forums ] worthwhile as most of the data in this wiki has been generated by the forum users.&lt;br&gt;


All ecomodder users are encouraged to modify the pages contained in these links with their own experiences, users must sign in to modify pages. For all mods please only list scientifically backed information and please provide supporting references with links. Efficiency improvement results should only be based on back to back tests under the same conditions. If there is no proven tested efficiency improvement listed ecomodders are welcome to estimate an efficiency improvement however please state that it is an estimate.&lt;br&gt;

For any significant changes or suggestions to this page, please discuss here: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-wiki-up-running-thread-suggestions-14289.html Main Mod Page Forum Discussion Link]


Drivers can also perform efficient driving techniques for free efficiency gains.  See the wiki for a comprehensive list : '''[[Hypermiling_Techniques|Efficient Driving Techniques Wiki]]'''&lt;br&gt;

Drivers can also perform modifications to their cars for higher efficiency gains. See below for a wiki with a comprehensive list : '''[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main|Car Efficiency Modifications Wiki]]'''&lt;br&gt;

=EcoModding Projects=
Here will be listed the project pages you can create for your ecomodded cars.

*Please, this is only for ecomod projects, not for discussion.
==Small Gasoline Cars==
List of all the Small Gasoline Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="10%"| % Above EPA :!!width="10%"| Description : 
|-
| Toyota Echo Sedan, 2005, Manual || 30 MPG (US) || 38 MPG (US) || 33 MPG (US) || 63.5 MPG (US) || 91.5% Above EPA ||[[Echo-Troll Ecomodding Project]]
|-
|}

==Small Diesel Cars==
List of all the Small Diesel Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. VolksWagon Jetta TDi, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Gasoline Trucks/Pickups==
List of all the Gasoline Trucks/Pickups moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Honda CR-V, 2004, Automatic)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Diesel Trucks/Pickups==
List of all the Diesel Trucks/Pickups moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Dodge Ram, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Small Hybrid Cars==
List of all the Small Hybrid Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Honda Insight, 2006, Manual)|| (Ex, 65 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 55 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 60 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Hybrid Trucks==
List of all the Hybrid Trucks Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Ford Escape Hybrid, 2010, CVT)|| (Ex, 45 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 55 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 50 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 65 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==All EV Cars==
List of all the EV Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Nissan Leaf, 2012, CVT)|| (Ex, 100 MPGe (US))  || (Ex, 80 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 90 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 145 MPGe (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Motorcycle==
List of all the Motorcycle moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Kawasaki ZX6, 2010, Manual)|| (Ex, 85 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 75 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 100 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}

==Template==
Here is a template if you want to create a page for your ecomodded car :&lt;br&gt;
'''[[Template:Ecomodding project|Template to create your project page]]'''</text>
    <sha1>5532eba46678bd9acaafba33ce543ba4557c6c9c</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Wiring diagrams</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>107</id>
  <revision>
    <id>108</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:44:41Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; ---- I am a new user to the MPGuino and Ecomodder. My technical background allowed me to install my MPGuino with only a little  help with..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1383" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
----
I am a new user to the MPGuino and Ecomodder. My technical background allowed me to install my MPGuino with only a little 
help with injector timing and VSS pulse stats from previous postings. Now as thanks, I want to contribute back to the forums 
what I can to help those with the ambition though not the skills to tackle the whole project without help.

This information may already be in the forums, but hopefully this will become a concise location for purely wiring and pinouts.

My offer is resources to anyone needing wiring diagrams. Doesn't have to pertain to the MPGuino necessarily. 
I have access to a technical database of automotive repair (2008-1982). This includes exploded diagrams w/pinouts and wire colors, 
repair procedures, and a great deal of part numbers. About anything you would need short of the common sense needed to apply the information.


== Ford ==
[[Media:1993 Ford Escort p1.jpg|1993 Ford Escort ECU Pinout page 1]]

[[Media:1993 Ford Escort p2.jpg|1993 Ford Escort ECU Pinout page 2]]


[[Media:1996_taurus.jpg|1996 Taurus ECU Pinout page 1]]

[[Media:1996 taurus p2.jpg|1996 Taurus ECU Pinout page 2]]

[[Media:1996 taurus p3.jpg|1996 Taurus ECU Pinout page 3]]


== Toyota ==
[[Media:2001_Echo_p1.jpg|2001 Toyota Echo ECU Pinout page 1]]

[[Media:2001_Echo_p2.jpg|2001 Toyota Echo ECU Pinout page 2]]</text>
    <sha1>5860d9bfedaff65dd2786765c7e591a81f5f8534</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Vehicle Coefficient of Drag List</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>108</id>
  <revision>
    <id>109</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:44:55Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; &lt;big&gt;'''Coefficient of Drag List'''&lt;/big&gt;  == Stock Vehicles ==  Frontal Area formula = Height * Width * .84 &lt;br&gt;(Height and Width in fee..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="23998" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
&lt;big&gt;'''Coefficient of Drag List'''&lt;/big&gt;

== Stock Vehicles ==

Frontal Area formula = Height * Width * .84
&lt;br&gt;(Height and Width in feet)

Frontal Area formula = (Height/12) * (Width/12) * .84
&lt;br&gt;(Height and Width in inches)

CdA formula = Cd * Frontal Area

{| class="sortable" border="1"
|+ Vehicle CdA
! Make !! Model !! Year !! Cd !! Height (In) !! Width (In) !! Frontal Area (ft^2) !! CdA
|-
! Acura 
| CL ||	1997 - 1999 ||0.34 || 54.7 || 70.1 || 21.6 || 7.33
|-
! Acura 
| CL ||	2000 - 2003 || 0.32 || 55.5 || 70.6 || 22.0 || 7.05
|-
! Acura 
| Integra || 1994 - 2001 || 0.32 || 51.9 || 66.7 || 19.5 || 6.23
|-
! Acura
| NSX || 1995 - 2005 ||	0.32 ||	46.1 ||	71.3 ||	19.2 ||	6.13
|-
! Acura 
| RSX || 2002 - 2004 || 0.32 || 54.5 || 67.9 || 20.8 || 6.66
|-
! Acura 
| TSX || 2004 - 2008 || 0.27 || 57.3 || 69.4 ||  || 
|-
! Alfa Romeo 
| 145 || 1994 - 2001 || 0.32 || 56.2 || 67.4 || 22.41 || 7.21
|-
! Aptera
| 2e ||	prototype || 0.15 ||  ||  || 19.9 || 2.98
|-
! Audi 
| A2 || 1999 - 2003 || || || || || 6.63
|-
! Audi 
| A2 3L || 2001 - 2003 || 0.25 || || || || 5.86
|-
! Audi 
| A3 || 1996 - 2003 || 0.31 || 56.0 || 68.3 || 22.39 || 6.89
|-
! Audi 
| A4 || 1994 - 2001 || 0.29 || 55.7 || 68.1 || 21.85 || 6.35
|-
! Audi 
| A6 || 1997 - 2004 || 0.29 || 57.2 || 71.3 || 22.82 || 6.67
|-
! Audi 
| A8 || 1994 - 2002 || 0.28 || 56.6 || 74.0 || 24.22 || 6.78
|-
! Audi 
| TT || 1998 - 2006 || 0.34 || - || - || 21.42 || 7.28
|-
! Audi 
| TT || 2006 -  || 0.30 || - || - || 22.47 || 6.75
|-
! BMW 
| Compact || 1993 - 2000 || 0.31 ||  || 67.0 || 20.99 || 6.57
|-
! BMW 
| 3-series || 1990 - 1999 || 0.30 ||  ||  || 21.10 || 6.24
|-
! BMW 
| 5-series || 1995 - 2003 || 0.27 || 56.5 || 70.9 || 23.36 || 6.35
|-
! BMW 
| 7-series || 1994 - 2001 || 0.30 || 56.1 || 73.3 || 23.79 || 7.21
|-
! Buick
| LeSabre || 1991 || 0.36 ||  ||  || 24.19 || 7.5 
|-
! Buick
| Park Avenue || 1991 - 1993 || 0.31 || 55.3 || 74.9 || 24.19 || 8.71 
|-
! Buick
| Park Avenue || 1994 - 1996 || 0.31 || 55.1 || 74.1 || 23.52 || 7.29 
|-
! Buick
| Park Avenue || 1997 - 2005 ||  || 57.4 || 74.7 ||  ||  
|-
! Buick
| Park Avenue || 2006 - 20XX ||  || 58.3 || 74.8 ||  ||  
|-
! Buick
| Regal GS || 1991 || 0.36 ||  ||  || 22.41 || 8.07 
|-
! Chevrolet
| Astro Van || 1995 - 2005 || 0.40 || 75.5 || 77.5 || 34.1 || 13.65
|-
! Chevrolet
| Aveo || 2004 - 2008 || 0.35 || 58.5 || 66 || 23.3 || 8.16
|-
! Chevrolet
| Aveo Hatchback || 2009 || 0.32 || 59.3 || 66.1 || 22.9 || 7.32
|-
! Chevrolet
| Aveo Sedan || 2009 || 0.32 || 58.9 || 67 || 23.0 || 7.37
|-
! Chevrolet
| Camaro || 1993 - 2002 || 0.34 || 51.3 || 74.1 || 22.0 || 7.48
|-
! Chevrolet
| Cavalier ||1995 - 2005 || 0.36 || 53.2 || 67.4 || 20.2 || 7.26
|-
! Chevrolet
| Cobalt XFE ||2008 - 2009 || 0.34 || 57.1 || 67.9 || 22.0 || 7.47
|-
! Chevrolet
| Monte Carlo || 1995 - 2000 || 0.36 ||	53.8 || 72.5 || 22.6 ||	8.14
|-
! Chevrolet
| Volt || 2011 - 2015 || 0.28 || 56.64 || 70.37 || 23.25 || 6.51
|-
! Chevrolet
| Volt || 2016 - || 0.285 || 56.4 || 71.2 || 23.42 || 6.68
|-
! Chrysler
| PT Cruiser ||	2000 - 2006 ||	0.40|| 	63.0|| 	67.1|| 	23.8|| 	9.51
|-
! Chrysler
| Sebring || 1995 - 2000 ||	0.32 ||	53.0 ||69.7 	||20.8 ||	6.65
|-
! Chrysler
| Sebring Convertible || 1996 - 2000 ||	0.36 ||	54.2 ||69.2 ||21.82 ||	7.85
|-
! Chrysler 
| Voyager || 1996 - 2000 || 0.37 || 68.5 || 75.6 || 30.14 || 11.19
|-
! Citroën
| C4 ||    2004 -  ||    0.28 ||    57.4 ||69.6     || ||    
|-
! Citroën 
| C8 || 1994 - 2003 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 28.95 || 9.79
|-
! Citroën
| Saxo ||    1996 - 2003 ||    0.34 ||    54.3 ||62.8     ||19.7 ||    6.66
|-
! Citroën 
| Xantia || 1993 - 2001 || 0.31 || 54.0 || 69.1 || 21.85 || 6.67
|-
! Citroën 
| XM || 1989 - 2000 || 0.30 || 54.8 || 70.6 || 22.82 || 6.78
|-
! Citroën 
| ZX || 1991 - 1998 || 0.36 ||  ||  || 20.77 || 7.43
|-
! Daewoo 
| Espero || 1990 - 1997 || 0.32 || 54.6 || 67.6 || 21.74 || 6.99
|-
! Daewoo 
| Nexia || 1994 - 1997 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 20.99 || 7.21
|-
! Dodge
| Avenger ||	2008-2009 ||	0.326|| 	 ||	 ||25.15 ||	8.2
|-
! Dodge
| Caravan ||	1996-2000 ||	0.35|| 	68.6 ||	76.8 ||	30.7 ||	10.76
|-
! Dodge
| Magnum (RWD) SE || 2005-2007 || 0.337 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 8.56
|-
! Dodge
| Magnum (RWD) SXT || 2005-2007 || 0.346 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 8.79
|-
! Dodge
| Magnum (RWD) R/T || 2005-2007 || 0.355 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 9.02
|-
! Dodge
| Magnum (AWD) SXT, R/T || 2005-2007 || 0.365 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 9.27
|-
! Dodge
| Neon || 1995-1999 ||	0.33|| 	54.9 ||	67.5 ||	21.6 ||	7.13
|-
! Dodge
| RAM 1500 QC||	2002-2008 ||	0.52|| 	 ||	 ||	35.1 ||	18.25
|-
! Dodge
| RAM SRT10 ||	2004-2006 ||	0.45|| 	 ||	 ||	34.6 ||	15.57
|-
! Dodge
| Shadow ||	1991-1994 ||	0.42|| 	 ||	 ||	21 ||	8.82
|-
! Fiat 
| Bravo || 1995 - 2001 || 0.32 || 55.9 || 68.9 || 22.06 || 7.10
|-
! Fiat 
| Cinquecento || 1991 - 1998 || 0.33 || 56.6 || 58.7 || 19.37 || 6.35
|-
! Fiat 
| Punto || 1993 - 1999 || 0.30 || 57.0 || 64.0 || 20.99 || 6.35
|-
! Fiat 
| Ulysse || 1994 - 2003 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 28.95 || 9.79
|-
! Ford 
| Aspire ||	1994 - 1997 	||0.36 	||55.6 	||65.5 ||	21.2 ||	7.65
|-
! Ford 
| Escort (Euro) || 1995 - 2000 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 20.88 || 6.67
|-
! Ford 
| Escort ||	1997 - 2002 	|| 0.36 ||	52.3 ||	67.4 ||	19.8 ||	7.14
|-
! Ford 
| Explorer II || 1995 - 2001 || 0.43 || 68.0 || 70.2 || 32.93 || 14.21
|-
! Ford 
| F-150 Lightning ||	1999 - 2004 ||	0.36|| 	70.9 	||79.1 ||	31.5||	11.36
|-
! Ford 
| Fiesta || 1995 - 2002 || 0.36 ||  ||  || 19.80 || 7.10
|-
! Ford 
| Fiesta || 2011 -  || 0.33 || 58.0 || 67.8 || 22.9 || 7.57
|-
! Ford 
| Galaxy || 1995 - 2000 || 0.32 || 67.9 || 74.2 || 28.84 || 9.15
|-
! Ford 
| Ka || 1996 - 2008 || 0.35 || 54.8 || 64.2 || 20.23 || 7.10
|-
! Ford 
| Maverick || 1988 - 1994 || 0.52 || 71.3 || 76.0 || 29.17 || 15.18
|-
! Ford 
| Mondeo || 1996 - 2000 || 0.31 ||  ||  || 22.06 || 6.89
|-
! Ford 
| Mondeo Turnier || 1996 - 2000 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 22.17 || 7.10
|-
! Ford 
| Ranger ||	2001 ||	0.49|| 	 68.5	|| 64.9 || 25.9	 ||	12.7
|-
! Ford 
| Scorpio || 1985 - 1998 || 0.32 || 54.6 || 69.3 || 22.06 || 7.10
|-
! Ford
| SVT Mustang Cobra ||	1994 - 2004 ||	0.37 	||52.5 ||	73.1 	||21.6 ||	7.99
|-
! Ford 
| Thunderbird 	||1989 - 1997 ||	0.31|| 	52.8|| 	72.0|| 	21.4|| 	6.63
|-
! Ford 
| Windstar I || 1994 - 1998 || 0.35 || 68.0 || 75.4 || 30.03 || 10.55
|-
! General Motors
| EV1 	||1996 ||	0.19 || 	|| 	|| 	|| 	3.96
|-
! Geo
| Metro 4dr ||	1989 - 1994 	|| ||	53.5 ||	62.7 ||	19.6 	|| 0.00
|-
! Geo
| Metro 4dr ||	1995 - 1997 ||	0.32|| 	55.4|| 	62.6 	||19.5 ||	6.24
|-
! Geo
| Metro 2dr hatch 	||1989 - 1994 	|| ||	52.4 	||62.0 ||	19.0|| 	0.00
|-
! Geo
| Metro 2dr hatch ||	1995 - 1997 	||0.34 	||54.7 	||62.6 	||20.0 	||6.79
|-
! Geo
| Metro Convertible 	||1989 - 1994 	||||	52.0 ||	62.7 	||19.0 ||	0.00
|-
! GMC 
| Sierra XFE ||	2009 ||	0.412|| 	80.0 	||73.6 ||	34.3||	14.2
|-
! Honda
| Accord Ex Coupe ||	1998 - 2002 ||	0.34 ||	55.1|| 	70.3 ||	21.8 ||	7.41
|-
! Honda
| Civic ||	1988 - 1991 	||||	53.5|| 	65.9|| 	20.6|| 	0.00
|-
! Honda
| Civic Hatch||	1988 - 1991 	||0.33||52.4|| 	65.6|| 	20.1|| 	6.63
|-
! Honda
| Civic Coupe 	||1992 - 1995 ||	0.32|| 	50.9 ||	66.9|| 	19.9 ||	6.36
|-
! Honda
| Civic ||	2001 - 2005 	||||	56.9|| 	67.7|| 	22.5 ||	0.00
|-
! Honda
| Civic Coupe ||	2006 - ||	0.29 ||	56.5 ||	69.0|| 	21.9 	||6.36
|-
! Honda
| Civic Del Sol ||	1992 - 1997 ||	0.35|| 	49.4|| 	66.7 ||	18.5 ||	6.49
|-
! Honda
| Civic Hatch 	|| 1992 - 1995 ||	0.31 ||	50.9|| 	66.9 ||	19.9|| 	6.16
|-
! Honda
| Civic Hatch ||	1996 - 2000 ||	0.36|| 	54.1 ||	67.1 ||	21.8 ||	7.62
|-
! Honda
| Civic Sedan ||	1996 - 2000 ||	0.32|| 	54.7 ||	67.1 ||	21.4 ||	6.85
|-
! Honda
| Civic Hybrid ||	2003 - 2005 	||0.28 ||	56.3|| 	67.5|| 	21.4|| 	5.99
|-
! Honda
| Civic Hybrid ||	2005 -  ||	0.27 ||	56.3 ||	69.0 ||	21.9|| 	5.90
|-
! Honda
| Civic SI ||	1996 - 2000 	||0.34 	||54.1 	||67.1 ||	20.4 ||	6.94
|-
! Honda
| CRX ||	1984 - 1987 ||	0.32 ||	50.8 ||	63.9 ||	18.3 	||5.84
|-
! Honda
| CRX 	||1988 - 1991 	||0.30 	||50.1 ||	65.9 	||18.6 ||	5.57
|-
! Honda
| CRX HF ||	1988 - 1991 ||	0.29 ||	50.1|| 	65.9 ||	18.6 ||	5.39
|-
! Honda
| CR-Z ||	2010 - ||	0.30 ||	54.9|| 	68.5 ||	21.9 ||	6.58
|-
! Honda
| Insight ||	2000 - 2006 ||	0.25|| 	53.3 	||66.7 ||	20.0 ||	5.00
|-
! Honda
| Insight ||	2010 -  ||	0.28|| 	56.3 	||66.7 ||	21.9 ||	6.13
|-
! Honda
| Fit ||	2006 - 2008 ||	0.35|| 	60.0 	||65.9 	||23.1 	 || 8.085
|-
! Honda
| Fit ||	2009 - 	||||	60.0|| 	66.7 	||23.3 	||0.00
|-
! Honda
| Prelude ||	1997 - 2001 ||	0.32 ||	51.8 ||	69.0 ||	20.1 	||6.43
|-
! Honda
| S2000 ||	2000 -  ||	0.33|| 	50.6 ||	68.9 ||	19.6 ||	6.47
|-
! Hyundai 
| Accent/Pony/Excel || 1994 - 1999 || 0.31 || 54.9 || 63.8 || 20.56 || 6.35
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra 	||1991 - 1993 	||||	54.5 	||65.9 ||	21.0|| 	0.00
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra ||	1994 - 1995 	||||	52.0 ||	66.1 ||	20.1 ||	0.00
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra ||	1996 - 2000 	||0.33 ||	54.9|| 	66.9|| 	20.7 	||6.82
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra ||	2001 - 2006 ||	0.34|| 	56.1 	||67.9 	||21.4 ||	7.29
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra ||	2007 -  ||	0.32 	||58.3 ||	69.9 	||22.9 ||	7.34
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra touring ||	2007 -  	||0.33 	||59.8 	||69.5 ||	23.4 ||	7.71
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra wagon ||	1996 - 1997 	||0.33 ||	57.4 ||	66.9|| 	21.6 ||	7.13
|-
! Hyundai
| Elantra wagon 	||1998 - 2000 ||	0.33|| 	58.8|| 	66.9 ||	22.1 	||7.30
|-
! Hyundai
| Sonata ||	2006 -  ||	0.32|| 	58.0|| 	72.1 ||	23.5 ||	7.53
|-
! Hyundai
| Tiburon GT|| 	2002 -  ||	0.32 ||	52.3 ||	69.3|| 	20.4|| 	6.52
|-
!Infiniti
|G20      || 1991-1996 ||     0.30  || 54.7 || 66.7   ||  21.28 || 6.38
|-
!Infiniti
|G20      || 1999-2002 ||     0.30  || 55.1 || 66.7  ||  21.44 || 6.43
|-
!Infiniti
|Q45      || 2002-2006 ||     0.30  || 58.7 || 72.6   ||  24.9 || 7.46
|- 
! Jeep 
| Cherokee  || 1984 - 2001 || 0.52 || 64.0 || 67.9 || 24.54 || 12.81
|-
! Jeep 
| Grand Cherokee  || 1993 - 1998 || 0.42 || 64.9 || 69.2 || 25.94 || 10.87
|-
! Jeep 
| Liberty  || 2012 || 0.394 || 71.0 || 72.3 || 30.21 || 12.0
|-
! Jeep
| Wrangler TJ-Hardtop|| 1997-2005 || 0.55 || 69.8 || 68.3 || 27.81 || 15.3 
|-
! Jeep 
| Wrangler TJ-Soft Top || 1997-2005 || 0.58 || 71.2 || 68.3 || 28.37 || 16.45 
|-
! Kia 
| Picanto || 2004-2011 || 0.34 || 58.3 || 62.8 || ||
|-
! Lancia 
| Delta HPE (3-door) || 1993 - 1999 || 0.33 || 56.0 || 69.3 || 22.49 || 7.43
|-
! Lexus 
| LS 400 || 1994 - 2000 || 0.27 || 56.0 || 72.0 || 24.00 || 6.46
|-
! Mazda 
| 323 C || 1994 - 1998 || 0.33 || 54.3 || 65.7 || 21.31 || 6.99
|-
! Mazda 
| 626 ||1992 - 1997 || 0.29 || 53.9 || 68.9 || 21.63 || 6.24
|-
! Mazda
| Miata ||	1998 - 2005 ||	0.38 	||47.3 	||66.1 	||17.6 ||	6.68
|-
! Mazda
| MX-3 	||1992 - 1995 	||0.32 	||51.6 	||66.7 	||19.4 ||	6.20
|-
! Mazda
| RX-7 ||1992 - 2002 ||	0.33|| 	48.4 ||	68.9|| 	18.8 	||6.19
|-
! Mazda
| RX-8 ||2003 - 2012 ||	0.30|| 	52.8 ||	69.7|| 	21.47 	||6.44
|-
! Mazda 
| Xedos 6 || 1992 - 1999 || 0.31 ||  ||  || 20.34 || 6.35
|-
! Mazda 
| Xedos 9/Millenia || 1993 - 2003 || 0.28 || 54.9 || 69.7 || 23.46 || 6.57
|-
! Mercedes-Benz 
| C-class || 1993 - 2000 || 0.30 || 56.1 || 67.7 || 22.06 || 6.67
|-
! Mercedes
| CL500 ||	1998 - 2000 ||	0.28 ||	55.0 ||	73.1 ||	23.9 	||6.69
|-
! Mercedes-Benz 
| E-class || 1995 - 2002 || 0.27 || 56.7 || 70.8 || 23.25 || 6.24
|-
! Mercedes-Benz 
| G-class || 1990 -  || 0.53 || 72.3 || 69.3 || 31.64 || 16.79
|-
! Mercedes-Benz 
| S-class || 1991 - 1999 || 0.31 ||  ||  || 25.62 || 7.96
|-
! Mercedes
| SL600 ||1989 - 2002 ||	0.45 	||50.7 ||	71.3 	||21.2 	||9.54
|-
! Mercedes-Benz 
| Vito || 1996 - 2003 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 34.27 || 11.62
|-
! Mercury
| Cougar ||	1999 - 2002 ||	0.31|| 	52.2 ||	69.6 ||	20.4 ||	6.34
|-
! Mini
| Mini Cooper S ||	2001 - 2006 ||	0.33 ||	55.8 ||	66.5 ||	21.3 	||7.03
|-
! Mitsubishi 
| Colt || 1995 - 2002 || 0.30 || 54.5 || 66.0 || 21.53 || 6.46
|-
! Mitsubishi
| Eclipse GS-T ||	1995 - 1999 ||	0.29|| 	51.0|| 	68.3|| 	20.4|| 	5.92
|-
! Mitsubishi
| Eclipse GTS ||	2000 - 2005 	||0.35 ||	51.6 ||	68.9 ||	20.4 ||	7.14
|-
! Mitsubishi
| i-MiEV ||	2012 -  	||0.35 ||	63.6 ||	62.4 ||	23.2 ||	8.10
|-
! Mitsubishi
| Lancer ||	2000 - 2007 ||	0.30 ||	54.1 	||66.7 	||21.0 ||	6.31
|-
! Mitsubishi
| Mirage Coupe|| 	1991 - 1996 ||	0.32 	||51.4 ||	66.5 	||19.2 ||	6.15
|-
! Mitsubishi
| Mirage Hatch|| 	2014 - 2016 ||	0.28 	||59.1 ||	65.6 	||21.97 ||	6.15
|-
! Mitsubishi
| Mirage Hatch|| 	2017 -  ||	0.27 	||59.1 ||	65.6 	||21.97 ||	5.93
|-
! Mitsubishi 
| Pajero || 1991 - 1999 || 0.49 || 72.8 || 66.7 || 27.23 || 13.02
|-
! Nissan
| 200SX SE 	||1991 - 1994 ||	0.30||	50.8 ||	66.5 	||19.0 	||5.70
|-
! Nissan
| 200SX SE-R 	||1995 - 1999 	||0.34 	||54.2 	||66.6 	||20.3 	||6.90
|-
! Nissan
| 300ZX Turbo|| 	1990 - 1996 ||	0.31 ||	49.2 ||	70.5 	||19.5 	||6.05
|-
! Nissan
| 350Z 	||2002 -  ||	0.31|| 	51.9 ||	71.5 	||20.9 ||	6.47
|-
! Nissan 
| Almera || 1995 - 2000 || 0.30 || 54.9 || 66.5 || 20.45 || 6.13
|-
! Nissan
| Altima ||	1993 - 1997 ||	0.34 	||55.9 ||	67.1 	||21.1 ||	7.17
|-
! Nissan
| Altima 	||1998 - 2001 ||	0.32|| 	55.9 ||	69.1|| 	21.7|| 	6.95
|-
! Nissan
| Altima 	||2002 - 2006 ||	0.32|| 	57.9|| 	70.4|| 	22.9 ||7.34
|-
! Nissan
| Altima coupe ||	2007 -  ||	0.31 ||	55.3 	||70.7 ||	22.0 	||6.82
|-
! Nissan
| Altima hybrid ||	2007 -  	||0.30 	||58.1 ||	69.6 	||22.7 	||6.82
|-
! Nissan
| Altima sedan 	||2007 -  	||0.31 	||57.9 ||70.7 	||23.0 ||	7.14
|-
! Nissan
| Cube 	     ||2008 -  	||0.35 	||65.0 ||66.7 	||25.32 ||	8.86
|-
! Nissan
| Leaf 	||2011 -  	||0.28 	||61.0 ||	69.7 ||24.8 	||6.94
|-
! Nissan
| Maxima     ||	1995 - 1999 ||0.32 	|| 55.7 ||	69.7 	||22.51	||7.20
|-
! Nissan 
| Micra || 1992 - 2003 || 0.35 ||  ||  || 19.59 || 6.89
|-
! Nissan 
| Murano || 2003 - 2007 || 0.39 || 66.5 || 74.0 || 28.71 || 11.20
|-
! Nissan 
| Murano || 2008 -      || 0.39 || 67.3 || 74.0 || 29.05 || 11.32
|-
! Nissan
| NX2000 	||1991 - 1993 ||0.32|| 	51.8 ||	66.1|| 	20 ||	6.39
|-
! Nissan 
| Patrol GR || 1987 - 1998 || 0.52 || 71.3 || 76.0 || 29.17 || 15.18
|-
! Nissan 
| Primera || 1995 - 1999 || 0.29 ||  ||  || 21.10 || 6.13
|-
! Nissan
| Sentra 	||1991 - 1994 ||	0.35|| 	53.0 ||	65.6|| 	19.6 ||	6.84
|-
! Nissan
| Sentra ||	1995 - 1999 	||0.33 ||	54.5 	||66.6 ||	20.4|| 	6.74
|-
! Nissan
| Sentra ||	2000 - 2006|| 	0.33 	||55.5 ||	67.3 	||21.0 	||6.93
|-
! Nissan
| Sentra ||	2007 -  	||0.35 ||	59.5 ||70.5 	||23.6 	||8.26
|-
! Nissan 
| Terrano II || 1996 - 2004 || 0.44 || 67.1 || 68.7 || 29.38 || 12.92
|-
! Nissan
| Versa 	||2004 -  	||0.31 	||60.4 ||	66.7 ||22.7 	||7.03
|-
! Opel 
| Astra || 1991 - 1998 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 21.20 || 6.78
|-
! Opel 
| Astra Caravan || 1991 - 1998 || 0.33 ||  ||  || 21.74 || 7.10
|-
! Opel 
| Corsa B || 1992 - 2000 || 0.36 || 56.7 || 63.4 || 20.23 || 7.21
|-
! Opel 
| Corsa C || 2000 - 2006 || 0.32 || 56.7 || 64.8 || 21.1 || 6.75
|-
! Opel
| Calibra 2.0i 	|| 1989 - 1997 	||0.26 	|| 52 || 	66.5||		 20.8 ||5.40
|-
! Opel 
| Omega B || 1994 - 1999 || 0.29 || 57.3 || 70.3 || 23.14 || 6.78
|-
! Opel 
| Sintra || 1996 - 1999 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 30.14 || 10.22
|-
! Opel
| Tigra 	|| 1994 - 2001 	||0.31 	||    || 	   ||		 19.15 ||5.94
|-
! Opel
| Vectra A 	||1988 - 1995 	||0.29 	|| 55.1 || 66.9 ||		21.9 ||	6.36
|-
! Opel 
| Vectra B || 1995 - 2002 || 0.28 || 56.0 || 67.0 || 21.74 || 6.13
|-
! Peugeot 
| 106 || 1991 - 2004 || 0.32 || 53.9 || 62.6 || 19.48 || 6.24
|-
! Peugeot
| 206 	||1998 -  	||0.33 	||  ||  ||		 ||	
|-
! Peugeot
| 207 	||2006 - 	||0.30 	||  ||  ||		 ||	
|-
! Peugeot
| 207 Economique 	||2009 - 	|| 0.274 ||  ||  ||		 ||	
|-
! Peugeot 
| 306 || 1993 - 2002 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 20.66 || 6.67
|-
! Peugeot
| 307 SW 	||2001 - 2008 	||0.33 	|| 61.4 || 70 || 27.46 || 9.06
|-
! Peugeot
| 308 ||2008 -  || 0.29 ||  ||  ||  ||	
|-
! Peugeot 
| 406 || 1995 - 2004 || 0.31 || 55.0 || 69.0 || 22.06 || 6.78
|-
! Peugeot 
| 806 || 1994 - 2002 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 28.95 || 9.79
|-
! Pontiac
| Bonneville || 1992 - 1997 || 0.36 || 55.7 || 74.5 || 24.3 || 8.75 
|-
! Pontiac
| Bonneville || 1998 - 1999 ||  || 56.0 || 74.4 || 24.3 ||  
|-
! Pontiac
| Bonneville SE || 2000 - 2001 ||  || 56.0 || 74.2 || 24.3 ||  
|-
! Pontiac
| Bonneville SLE &amp; SSEi || 2000 - 2001 ||  || 56.4 || 74.2 || 24.4 ||  
|-
! Pontiac
| Bonneville || 2002 - 2005 ||  || 56.6 || 74.2 || 24.5 ||  
|-
! Pontiac
| Fiero || 1986 || 0.36 ||  ||  || 18.72 || 6.75 
|-
! Pontiac
| Grand AM GT || 1992 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 21.12 || 7.18 
|-
! Pontiac
| Grand AM SE || 1992 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 20.82 || 7.08 
|-
! Pontiac
| Grand Prix || 1991 || 0.34 ||  ||  || 22.32 || 7.59 
|-
! Pontiac
| Grand Prix || 1998 - 2003 ||  || 54.7 || 72.7 || 23.197 ||
|-
! Pontiac
| Trans Am || 1985 - 1989 || 0.29 ||  ||  ||  ||  
|-
! Pontiac
| Firebird Trans Am || 1993 - 2002 || 0.34 || 52.0 || 74.5 || 22.0 || 7.48 
|-
! Pontiac
| Trans Sport || 1990 - 1996 || 0.30 || 65.7 || 74.6 || 28.6 || 8.58 
|-
! Pontiac
| Vibe || 2003 || 0.33 ||  ||  ||  ||	
|-
! Porsche
| 914 || 1969 - 1976 || 0.36 || || || 17.2 || 6.19 
|-
! Renault 
| Clio || 1990 - 1998 || 0.33 ||  ||  || 20.02 || 6.57
|-
! Renault 
| Espace II || 1991 - 1997 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 27.88 || 8.93
|-
! Renault 
| Espace III || 1997 - 2003 || 0.31 ||  ||  || 27.77 || 8.61
|-
! Renault 
| Laguna || 1993 - 2001 || 0.30 || 56.4 || 69.0 || 22.28 || 6.67
|-
! Renault 
| Megane || 1995 - 2002 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 21.42 || 6.89
|-
! Renault 
| Twingo || 1992 - 2007 || 0.35 ||  ||  || 20.99 || 7.32
|-
! Rover
| 214 || 1995-1999 || 0.33 || 56 || 67 || 21.5 || 7.1 
|-
! Saab 
| 900 (Classic) || 1979-1993|| 0.34 || 56.25 || 66.5 || 21.82 || 7.42
|-
! Saab 
| 9000 CS || 1992 - 1998 || 0.32 || 55.9 || 69.4 || 22.39 || 7.21
|-
! Saab 
| Sonett III (Model 97) || 1970 - 1974 || 0.31 || 46.8 || 59.1 || 15.15 || 4.70
|-
! Saturn
| SC ||	1991 - 1996 ||0.32 || 50.6 || 67.6 || 20.0 || 6.39 
|-
! Saturn
| SC ||	1996 - 2002 ||	0.31|| 	53.0|| 	67.3 ||	20.8 ||	6.45
|-
! Saturn
| SC2 || 1997 - 2002 ||	0.33|| 	52.2|| 	67.3 ||	20.9|| 	6.90
|-
! Saturn
| SL ||	1991 - 1995 ||	0.34|| 	52.5|| 	67.6 ||	20.7|| 	7.04
|-
! Saturn
| SL 	||1996 - 2002 ||	0.32 	||54.8 ||	66.6 ||	21.3 ||	6.81
|-
! Saturn
| SW ||	1993 - 1995 ||  || 53.7 || 67.6 || 21.2 ||  	
|-
! Saturn
| SW 	||1996 - 2001 || 0.36 ||	55.0 	||66.5 	||21.3 	||7.68
|-
! Scion
| FR-S 	||2012 -  ||	0.27||	50.6 || 	69.9|| 	20.6 	||5.57
|-
! Scion
| Tc 	||2005 -  ||	0.32||	55.7|| 	69.1|| 	21.6 	||6.93
|-
! Scion
| Xa 	||2004 - 2007 	||0.31 ||	60.2 	||66.7 	||22.6 ||	7.00
|-
! Scion
| Xb ||	2004 - 2007 ||	0.35 	||64.6 || 66.5 ||	24.2|| 	8.46
|-
! Scion
| Xb 	||2008 -  	||0.32 ||	64.7 	||69.3 || 25.2 ||8.07
|-
! Scion
| Xd ||	2008 - 	||0.32 || 60.0 	||67.9 || 22.9 	||7.33
|-
! Seat 
| Cordoba || 1993 - 2002 || 0.32 || 55.4 || 65.0 || 20.99 || 6.67
|-
! Seat 
| Ibiza || 1993 - 1999 || 0.33 ||  ||  || 20.88 || 6.89
|-
! Seat 
| Toledo || 1991 - 1998 || 0.32 || 56.1 || 65.4 || 21.10 || 6.78
|-
! Škoda 
| Felicia || 1994 - 2001 || 0.346 || 55.7 || 64.37 || 20.91 || 7.23
|-
! Škoda 
| Octavia || 1996 -  || 0.32 ||  ||  || 22.17 || 7.10
|-
! Subaru
| Impreza 2.5RS ||	1993 - 2001 ||	0.36 ||55.5 ||	67.1 	||20.9 ||	7.54
|-
! Subaru
| Impreza WRX ||	2002 - 2007 ||	0.33 ||	56.7 ||	68.1 	||22.63 	||7.47
|-
! Subaru 
| Legacy || 1994 - 1999 || 0.35 ||  ||  || 23.25 || 8.18
|-
! Subaru 
| Legacy || 2009 || 0.31 || 56.5 || 68.1 || 22.44 ||6.96
|-
! Subaru
| Legacy Wagon ||	1995 - 1999 	||0.32 	||57.1 	||67.5 	||22.5 	||7.20
|-
! Subaru
| Legacy Outback Wagon ||	1995 - 1999  	||0.32 	||63.0 	||67.0 	||24.6 	||7.87
|-
! Subaru
| Legacy Outback Wagon ||	2000 - 2004 	||0.32 	||58.3 	||68.7 	||23.4 	||7.48
|-
! Subaru
| Outback Wagon ||	2005 - 2009 	||0.31 	||58.1 	||68.1 	||23.1 	||7.15
|-
! Subaru
| Outback Wagon ||	2010 -      	||0.37 	||65.7 	||71.7 	||27.5 	||10.16
|-
! Subaru
| Loyale Wagon ||	1988 - 1994 	||0.38 	||53.0 	||65.4 	||19.75 	||7.50
|-
! Toyota 
| Camry || 1991 - 1996 || 0.31 ||  ||  || 22.06 || 6.80
|-
! Toyota
| Camry Solara ||	1999 - 2003 ||	0.36 ||	55.1 	||71.1 	||22.0 ||	7.93
|-
! Toyota 
| Carina || 1996 - 2001 || 0.30 || 54.9 || 66.7 || 20.99 || 6.35
|-
! Toyota
| Celica GT-S ||	1994 - 1999 	||0.34 ||	50.1 	||68.3 	||19.2 ||	6.54
|-
! Toyota
| Celica GT ||	2000 - 2006 	||0.32 ||	51.4 	|| 68.3 || 20.5 ||	6.55
|-
! Toyota
| Corolla 	||1993 - 1997 ||	0.33|| 	53.5|| 	66.3|| 	20.0|| 	6.58
|-
! Toyota
| Corolla 	||1998 - 2002 	||0.31 ||	54.5 	||66.7 	||20.4|| 	6.34
|-
! Toyota
| Corolla|| 	2003 - 2008|| 	0.30 	||58.5 ||	66.9 	||22.0 	||6.60
|-
! Toyota
| Corolla ||	2009 - 	||0.29 ||	57.7|| 	69.3 ||	22.5 	||6.52
|-
! Toyota
| Echo 	||2000 - 2005 	||0.29 	||59.4 ||	65.4 ||	21.9|| 	6.34
|-
! Toyota
| iQ 3dr	||2010 -  ||	0.299||	|| 	|| 	23.1 	||6.89
|-
! Toyota
| Matrix 	||2003 - 2008 	||0.32 	||61.6 ||	69.9 	||24.2 	||7.75
|-
! Toyota
| Matrix 	||2009 -  	||0.33 ||	61.0 	||69.5 ||	23.8|| 	7.87
|-
! Toyota
| MR2 ||	1985 - 1989 ||	0.32 	||49.2 	||65.5 ||	18.1|| 	5.80
|-
! Toyota
| MR2 	||1991 - 1995|| 	0.31|| 	48.6 	||66.9 	||18.3 ||	5.67
|-
! Toyota
| MR-Spyder 	||1999 - 2007 	||0.31 	||48.8 	||66.7 	||18.3 ||	5.68
|-
! Toyota
| Paseo 	||1992 - 1995 ||	0.32 	||50.5 	||65.2 	||18.5 ||	5.93
|-
! Toyota
| Paseo 	||1996 - 1998 ||	0.32 	||51.0 ||	65.4 	||18.8 	||6.00
|-
! Toyota
| Previa ||	1990-2000 ||	0.33 ||	69.0|| 	70.9 	||28.5 	||9.42
|-
! Toyota
| Prius || 2000 - 2003 	||0.29 ||	57.6 	||66.7 	||21.6 ||	6.27
|-
! Toyota
| Prius ||2004 - 2009 	||0.26 	||58.7 	||67.9 	||22.4 ||	5.83
|-
! Toyota
| Prius ||2010 - 2015 	||0.25 	||58.3 	||68.7 	||23.4 ||	5.84
|-
! Toyota
| Prius C ||2012 -  	||0.28 	||56.9 	||66.7 	||22.1 ||	6.20
|-
! Toyota
| Sienna ||2011 -  	||0.309	|| 	|| 	|| ||	
|-
! Toyota
| Supra ||1993 - 2002 	||0.32 	||50.2 ||	71.3 	||20.1 ||	6.44
|-
! Toyota
| Tercel ||1991 - 1994 ||	0.36 ||	53.1|| 	64.8 ||	19.4|| 	6.97
|-
! Toyota
| Tercel ||1995 - 1999 ||	0.32|| 	53.2|| 	65.4 	||19.6 ||	6.26
|-
! Toyota
| Yaris ||2007 - 2013 ||	0.29|| 	56.5 ||	66.5|| 	21.1 	||6.13
|-
! Toyota
| Yaris ||2014 -  ||	0.29|| 	59.4 ||	66.7 || 23.1 	||6.70
|-
! Volkswagen
| 1L 	Concept ||  ||	0.15||	39.6 	||49.2 ||	11.0 ||	1.65
|-
! Volkswagen
| XL1 || 2014 - || 0.189 || 45.4 || 65.6 || 15.87 || 3.00
|-
! Volkswagen
| Beetle ||	1998 -  	||0.38 ||	59.5 ||	67.9 ||	22.7 ||	8.64
|-
! Volkswagen
| Beetle ||	1959 - 1979 	||0.48 ||	0 ||	0 ||	0 ||	0
|-
! Volkswagen 
| Caravelle/Transporter || 1990 - 2003 || 0.37 ||  ||  || 33.37 || 12.27
|-
! Volkswagen 
| Golf || 1997 - 2003 || 0.32 ||  ||  || 21.31 || 6.89
|-
! Volkswagen 
| Golf Variant || 1997 - 2003 || 0.34 || ||  || 22.06 || 7.43
|-
! Volkswagen
| Jetta 	||1993 - 1999 	||0.30 ||	56.1 	||66.7 ||	21.0 ||	6.31
|-
! Volkswagen
| Jetta 	||1986-1992 	||0.36 ||	55.7 	||65.5 ||	21.79 ||	7.84
|-
! Volkswagen
| Jetta sedan ||	2000 - 2005 ||	0.30 	||56.7 ||	68.3 	||21.8 ||	6.54
|-
! Volkswagen
| Jetta  ||	2006 -  	||0.31 ||	57.4 ||	70.1 ||	22.6 	||7.02
|-
! Volkswagen
| Jetta wagon ||	2000 - 2005 ||	0.30 ||	58.5|| 	68.3 ||	22.5 	||6.74
|-
! Volkswagen
| Passat ||	1995 - 1997 ||	0.31 ||	56.4 	||67.5 	||21.4 	||6.64
|-
! Volkswagen
| Passat Wagon ||	1995 - 1997 	||0.33 ||	58.7 	||67.5 	||22.3 	||7.36
|-
! Volkswagen
| Passat Wagon B5 ||	2000 	||0.27 ||	57.5 	||68.5 	||22.97 	||6.20
|-
! Volkswagen 
| Polo || 1994 - 2002 || 0.33 ||  ||  || 20.45 || 6.67
|-
! Volkswagen 
| Sharan ||1995  - 2000 || 0.32 || 69.4 || 71.3 || 28.84 || 9.15
|-
! Volkswagen 
| Vento/Jetta || 1992 - 1999 || 0.32 || 56.3 || 66.5 || 21.42 || 6.89
|-
! Volvo 
| 850 || 1992 - 1997 || 0.32 || 55.7 || 69.3 || 23.03 || 7.43
|-
! Volvo 
| 940 || 1990 - 1998 || 0.34 || 55.5 || 69.3 || 23.14 || 7.86
|-
! Volvo
| C70 Coupe 	||1997 - 2005 ||	0.32 ||	55.1|| 	72.0 	||22.3 ||	7.14
|-
! Volvo
| V70/V70XC 	||1996 - 2000 ||	0.32 ||	56.2|| 	69.3 	||22.7 ||	7.26
|-
! Volvo
| V70/V70XC 	||2001 - 2009 ||	0.30 ||	57.6|| 	71.0 	||24.0 ||	7.20
|-
! Make !! Model !! Year !! Cd !! Height (In) !! Width (In) !! Frontal Area (ft^2) !! CdA
|-
|}

==EcoModded Vehicles==
{| border="1"
|+ Vehicle CdA
! Make !! Model !! Year !! Cd !! Height (In) !! Width (In) !! Frontal Area (ft^2) !! CdA
|-
! Honda 
| AeroCivic ||	1992 ||	0.17 ||	50.9 ||	66.9 ||	19.9 ||	3.38
|-
! Toyota
| T100 || ??? || 0.27 ||??? ||	75.2 ||	??? ||	???
|}</text>
    <sha1>7b6206c9cd86295dfbf0c4eef3c0a57330a16642</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) Maps</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>109</id>
  <revision>
    <id>110</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:45:59Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; __TOC__   == '''Brake Specific Fuel Consumption Maps''' == Useful for determining at what load and rpm your engine is making the most pow..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5146" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
__TOC__ 

== '''Brake Specific Fuel Consumption Maps''' ==
Useful for determining at what load and rpm your engine is making the most power out of the fuel given to it.


== '''Cummins 5.9L B5.9-175 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_B5.9-175_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Cummins 5.9L ISB-235 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_ISB-235_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Ford 2.0L Zetec'''== 

[[Image:ford_2.0l_zetec_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L original'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-orig.gif]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L cleaned up'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-reconstruction.gif]]


== '''1st Gen Honda Insight 1.0L'''== 
CVT, which would have lean burn if the car tested was a Japanese-market Insight.  Electric assist does not appear to have been accounted for, so the high-load, high-RPM BSFC is grossly underestimated.

[[Image:honda_insight_1.0l_bsfc.jpg|600px]]


On a chassis dyno with a lean burn capable manual transmission equipped vehicle, with no evidence of reduced BSFC at the low load, low RPM regime where lean burn operates:

[[image:Honda_Insight_5mt.jpg]]


== '''2017 Mazda 3 Skyactiv gasoline engine'''== 

[[File:2017Mazda3.PNG]]


== '''Mercedes Benz 300SD OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel'''== 

[[image:Mercedes_Benz_OM617_5cyl_turbo_diesel.jpg|600px]]


== '''MG 1.8L B-Series'''== 

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC.jpg]]

BSFC map generated from the information below.

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC_2.jpg]]


== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC'''== 

[[Image:saturn_99_1.9l_dohc_bsfc.jpg]]

== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC Modified'''==
[[Image:Saturn_1.9l_BSFC_cleaned.png]]

Saturn 1.9L BSFC: Included imperial units, Constant Horsepower curves, Engine Load %, and extrapolated to redline.


Approximate Vacuum readings on Magenta Optimum Efficiency Line:

6.7"hg at 1000 rpm

6.5"hg at 1500 rpm

5.7"hg at 2000 rpm

5.0"hg at 2500 rpm

3.8"hg at 3000 rpm

2.3"hg at 3500 rpm

1.3"hg at 4000 rpm

0.9"hg at 4500 rpm

0.2"hg at 5000 rpm

WOT at &gt;5100 rpm

== '''Skoda Felicia 1.3L MPI (50kW)'''==

[[File:Bsfc_felicia_mpi.jpg‎]]


== '''Subaru EJ22 2.2L SOHC'''== 

[[Image:Subaru-ej22-bsfc.png|600px]]


== '''Toyota 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE and possibly the 3.0L 3VZ-FE (Previous Engine)'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1mzfe_3.0l_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota 1.8L 1ZZ-FE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_98_1zzfe_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.5L 1NZ-FXE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1nzfxe_prius_bsfc.jpg]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.8L 2ZR-FXE 2010-'''== 

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc1.jpg|600px]]

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc2.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen 1.4L TSI'''== 

[[Image:VWTSI_BSFC.jpg|600px]]

There was an article on VW's cylinder deactivating TSI in a magazine (Serwis motoryzacyjny, 11/2011) and it had the following BSFC graph, illustrating an example of how cylinder deactivation can help reduce fuel consumption.

The red line '1' graphs constant engine power, in this example 30kW. By going to an rpm and load closer to the BSFC sweetspot the fuel consumption can be lowered by 20%. Deactivating half of the cylinders helps to increase the load, but among the things the article didn't state are:
Is that BSFC for the engine in 4-, or 2-cylinder mode? Or maybe combined? 
What would be the effect of only shifting gears? 
What would be the effect of only deactivating 2 cylinders? 

Anyhow, the article claimed that only deactivating the cylinders reduced fuel consumption by 0.4 l/100km in the NEDC cycle, while with the Start/Stop system 0.6 l/100km. At steady, low speeds and loads the fc can be reduced by 0.7-1.0 l/100km. The cylinders are deactivated when engine speed is between 1400 and 4000 rpm, and torque between 25 and 75 Nm (the max torque is 250 Nm).


== '''Volkswagen 1.5L diesel'''== 

[[Image:Vw15d.png|600px]]


== '''Volkswagen 2.0L 5 cyl diesel'''== 

[[Image:vw_5cyl_2.0l_diesel.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH 1999.5-2003'''== 

[[image:ALH BSFC map with power hyperbolae.png]]

Each curve represents a constant horsepower developed by the engine. If you are driving on a given road with a constant grade, speed, and ambient conditions, regardless of which gear you are in, it requires roughly the same amount of power to overcome aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance and driveline losses. Therefore, regardless of what gear you're in, you're riding anywhere along the same blue curve; exactly where you sit on that blue curve being only dependent on the gear you're in and therefore the RPM at which the engine is turning over.

In the case of the TDI BSFC chart, if I take the example of operating on a certain speed such that the power is 20 HP, the lowest BSFC occurs when running at the gear that corresponds to about 1250 RPM. If I run at either a higher- or lower RPM from this point, my BSFC will increase. This is about the only point in the entire engine map where it would be disadvantageous to operate at an even higher gear if one were available (lower RPM) because of the worsening BSFC. Almost everywhere else, the lowest BSFC is achieved at the lowest possible RPM at a given power.


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0L 2009'''== 

[[Image:vw_09_jetta_tdi_2.0l_bsfc.JPG]]</text>
    <sha1>ffa72d4b6b9388c74fa8b91d68217657a1213938</sha1>
  </revision>
  <revision>
    <id>140</id>
    <parentid>110</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-13T19:00:32Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5324" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
__TOC__ 

'''Note -- for BSFC images missing from this page, see the [https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/bsfc-chart-thread-post-em-if-you-got-1466.html The BSFC chart thread]''' 

== '''Brake Specific Fuel Consumption Maps''' ==
Useful for determining at what load and rpm your engine is making the most power out of the fuel given to it.


== '''Cummins 5.9L B5.9-175 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_B5.9-175_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Cummins 5.9L ISB-235 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_ISB-235_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Ford 2.0L Zetec'''== 

[[Image:ford_2.0l_zetec_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L original'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-orig.gif]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L cleaned up'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-reconstruction.gif]]


== '''1st Gen Honda Insight 1.0L'''== 
CVT, which would have lean burn if the car tested was a Japanese-market Insight.  Electric assist does not appear to have been accounted for, so the high-load, high-RPM BSFC is grossly underestimated.

[[Image:honda_insight_1.0l_bsfc.jpg|600px]]


On a chassis dyno with a lean burn capable manual transmission equipped vehicle, with no evidence of reduced BSFC at the low load, low RPM regime where lean burn operates:

[[image:Honda_Insight_5mt.jpg]]


== '''2017 Mazda 3 Skyactiv gasoline engine'''== 

[[File:2017Mazda3.PNG]]


== '''Mercedes Benz 300SD OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel'''== 

[[image:Mercedes_Benz_OM617_5cyl_turbo_diesel.jpg|600px]]


== '''MG 1.8L B-Series'''== 

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC.jpg]]

BSFC map generated from the information below.

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC_2.jpg]]


== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC'''== 

[[Image:saturn_99_1.9l_dohc_bsfc.jpg]]

== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC Modified'''==
[[Image:Saturn_1.9l_BSFC_cleaned.png]]

Saturn 1.9L BSFC: Included imperial units, Constant Horsepower curves, Engine Load %, and extrapolated to redline.


Approximate Vacuum readings on Magenta Optimum Efficiency Line:

6.7"hg at 1000 rpm

6.5"hg at 1500 rpm

5.7"hg at 2000 rpm

5.0"hg at 2500 rpm

3.8"hg at 3000 rpm

2.3"hg at 3500 rpm

1.3"hg at 4000 rpm

0.9"hg at 4500 rpm

0.2"hg at 5000 rpm

WOT at &gt;5100 rpm

== '''Skoda Felicia 1.3L MPI (50kW)'''==

[[File:Bsfc_felicia_mpi.jpg‎]]


== '''Subaru EJ22 2.2L SOHC'''== 

[[Image:Subaru-ej22-bsfc.png|600px]]


== '''Toyota 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE and possibly the 3.0L 3VZ-FE (Previous Engine)'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1mzfe_3.0l_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota 1.8L 1ZZ-FE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_98_1zzfe_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.5L 1NZ-FXE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1nzfxe_prius_bsfc.jpg]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.8L 2ZR-FXE 2010-'''== 

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc1.jpg|600px]]

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc2.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen 1.4L TSI'''== 

[[Image:VWTSI_BSFC.jpg|600px]]

There was an article on VW's cylinder deactivating TSI in a magazine (Serwis motoryzacyjny, 11/2011) and it had the following BSFC graph, illustrating an example of how cylinder deactivation can help reduce fuel consumption.

The red line '1' graphs constant engine power, in this example 30kW. By going to an rpm and load closer to the BSFC sweetspot the fuel consumption can be lowered by 20%. Deactivating half of the cylinders helps to increase the load, but among the things the article didn't state are:
Is that BSFC for the engine in 4-, or 2-cylinder mode? Or maybe combined? 
What would be the effect of only shifting gears? 
What would be the effect of only deactivating 2 cylinders? 

Anyhow, the article claimed that only deactivating the cylinders reduced fuel consumption by 0.4 l/100km in the NEDC cycle, while with the Start/Stop system 0.6 l/100km. At steady, low speeds and loads the fc can be reduced by 0.7-1.0 l/100km. The cylinders are deactivated when engine speed is between 1400 and 4000 rpm, and torque between 25 and 75 Nm (the max torque is 250 Nm).


== '''Volkswagen 1.5L diesel'''== 

[[Image:Vw15d.png|600px]]


== '''Volkswagen 2.0L 5 cyl diesel'''== 

[[Image:vw_5cyl_2.0l_diesel.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH 1999.5-2003'''== 

[[image:ALH BSFC map with power hyperbolae.png]]

Each curve represents a constant horsepower developed by the engine. If you are driving on a given road with a constant grade, speed, and ambient conditions, regardless of which gear you are in, it requires roughly the same amount of power to overcome aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance and driveline losses. Therefore, regardless of what gear you're in, you're riding anywhere along the same blue curve; exactly where you sit on that blue curve being only dependent on the gear you're in and therefore the RPM at which the engine is turning over.

In the case of the TDI BSFC chart, if I take the example of operating on a certain speed such that the power is 20 HP, the lowest BSFC occurs when running at the gear that corresponds to about 1250 RPM. If I run at either a higher- or lower RPM from this point, my BSFC will increase. This is about the only point in the entire engine map where it would be disadvantageous to operate at an even higher gear if one were available (lower RPM) because of the worsening BSFC. Almost everywhere else, the lowest BSFC is achieved at the lowest possible RPM at a given power.


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0L 2009'''== 

[[Image:vw_09_jetta_tdi_2.0l_bsfc.JPG]]</text>
    <sha1>ed71df5d5b6e145c61a80d6521ca11c17c4b82e8</sha1>
  </revision>
  <revision>
    <id>141</id>
    <parentid>140</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-13T19:01:17Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5325" xml:space="preserve">'''Note -- for BSFC images missing from this page, see the [https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/bsfc-chart-thread-post-em-if-you-got-1466.html The BSFC chart thread]''' 

[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;

__TOC__ 

== '''Brake Specific Fuel Consumption Maps''' ==
Useful for determining at what load and rpm your engine is making the most power out of the fuel given to it.


== '''Cummins 5.9L B5.9-175 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_B5.9-175_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Cummins 5.9L ISB-235 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_ISB-235_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Ford 2.0L Zetec'''== 

[[Image:ford_2.0l_zetec_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L original'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-orig.gif]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L cleaned up'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-reconstruction.gif]]


== '''1st Gen Honda Insight 1.0L'''== 
CVT, which would have lean burn if the car tested was a Japanese-market Insight.  Electric assist does not appear to have been accounted for, so the high-load, high-RPM BSFC is grossly underestimated.

[[Image:honda_insight_1.0l_bsfc.jpg|600px]]


On a chassis dyno with a lean burn capable manual transmission equipped vehicle, with no evidence of reduced BSFC at the low load, low RPM regime where lean burn operates:

[[image:Honda_Insight_5mt.jpg]]


== '''2017 Mazda 3 Skyactiv gasoline engine'''== 

[[File:2017Mazda3.PNG]]


== '''Mercedes Benz 300SD OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel'''== 

[[image:Mercedes_Benz_OM617_5cyl_turbo_diesel.jpg|600px]]


== '''MG 1.8L B-Series'''== 

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC.jpg]]

BSFC map generated from the information below.

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC_2.jpg]]


== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC'''== 

[[Image:saturn_99_1.9l_dohc_bsfc.jpg]]

== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC Modified'''==
[[Image:Saturn_1.9l_BSFC_cleaned.png]]

Saturn 1.9L BSFC: Included imperial units, Constant Horsepower curves, Engine Load %, and extrapolated to redline.


Approximate Vacuum readings on Magenta Optimum Efficiency Line:

6.7"hg at 1000 rpm

6.5"hg at 1500 rpm

5.7"hg at 2000 rpm

5.0"hg at 2500 rpm

3.8"hg at 3000 rpm

2.3"hg at 3500 rpm

1.3"hg at 4000 rpm

0.9"hg at 4500 rpm

0.2"hg at 5000 rpm

WOT at &gt;5100 rpm

== '''Skoda Felicia 1.3L MPI (50kW)'''==

[[File:Bsfc_felicia_mpi.jpg‎]]


== '''Subaru EJ22 2.2L SOHC'''== 

[[Image:Subaru-ej22-bsfc.png|600px]]


== '''Toyota 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE and possibly the 3.0L 3VZ-FE (Previous Engine)'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1mzfe_3.0l_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota 1.8L 1ZZ-FE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_98_1zzfe_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.5L 1NZ-FXE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1nzfxe_prius_bsfc.jpg]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.8L 2ZR-FXE 2010-'''== 

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc1.jpg|600px]]

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc2.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen 1.4L TSI'''== 

[[Image:VWTSI_BSFC.jpg|600px]]

There was an article on VW's cylinder deactivating TSI in a magazine (Serwis motoryzacyjny, 11/2011) and it had the following BSFC graph, illustrating an example of how cylinder deactivation can help reduce fuel consumption.

The red line '1' graphs constant engine power, in this example 30kW. By going to an rpm and load closer to the BSFC sweetspot the fuel consumption can be lowered by 20%. Deactivating half of the cylinders helps to increase the load, but among the things the article didn't state are:
Is that BSFC for the engine in 4-, or 2-cylinder mode? Or maybe combined? 
What would be the effect of only shifting gears? 
What would be the effect of only deactivating 2 cylinders? 

Anyhow, the article claimed that only deactivating the cylinders reduced fuel consumption by 0.4 l/100km in the NEDC cycle, while with the Start/Stop system 0.6 l/100km. At steady, low speeds and loads the fc can be reduced by 0.7-1.0 l/100km. The cylinders are deactivated when engine speed is between 1400 and 4000 rpm, and torque between 25 and 75 Nm (the max torque is 250 Nm).


== '''Volkswagen 1.5L diesel'''== 

[[Image:Vw15d.png|600px]]


== '''Volkswagen 2.0L 5 cyl diesel'''== 

[[Image:vw_5cyl_2.0l_diesel.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH 1999.5-2003'''== 

[[image:ALH BSFC map with power hyperbolae.png]]

Each curve represents a constant horsepower developed by the engine. If you are driving on a given road with a constant grade, speed, and ambient conditions, regardless of which gear you are in, it requires roughly the same amount of power to overcome aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance and driveline losses. Therefore, regardless of what gear you're in, you're riding anywhere along the same blue curve; exactly where you sit on that blue curve being only dependent on the gear you're in and therefore the RPM at which the engine is turning over.

In the case of the TDI BSFC chart, if I take the example of operating on a certain speed such that the power is 20 HP, the lowest BSFC occurs when running at the gear that corresponds to about 1250 RPM. If I run at either a higher- or lower RPM from this point, my BSFC will increase. This is about the only point in the entire engine map where it would be disadvantageous to operate at an even higher gear if one were available (lower RPM) because of the worsening BSFC. Almost everywhere else, the lowest BSFC is achieved at the lowest possible RPM at a given power.


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0L 2009'''== 

[[Image:vw_09_jetta_tdi_2.0l_bsfc.JPG]]</text>
    <sha1>3066daffb07e6ef9aeff1e913a9717414e8f93cd</sha1>
  </revision>
  <revision>
    <id>142</id>
    <parentid>141</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-13T19:01:49Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="5330" xml:space="preserve">== '''Note -- for BSFC images missing from this page, see the [https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/bsfc-chart-thread-post-em-if-you-got-1466.html The BSFC chart thread]''' ==

[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;

__TOC__ 

== '''Brake Specific Fuel Consumption Maps''' ==
Useful for determining at what load and rpm your engine is making the most power out of the fuel given to it.


== '''Cummins 5.9L B5.9-175 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_B5.9-175_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Cummins 5.9L ISB-235 diesel'''== 

[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_ISB-235_BSFC.gif|600px]]


== '''Ford 2.0L Zetec'''== 

[[Image:ford_2.0l_zetec_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L original'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-orig.gif]]


== '''Geo Metro 1.0L cleaned up'''== 

[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-reconstruction.gif]]


== '''1st Gen Honda Insight 1.0L'''== 
CVT, which would have lean burn if the car tested was a Japanese-market Insight.  Electric assist does not appear to have been accounted for, so the high-load, high-RPM BSFC is grossly underestimated.

[[Image:honda_insight_1.0l_bsfc.jpg|600px]]


On a chassis dyno with a lean burn capable manual transmission equipped vehicle, with no evidence of reduced BSFC at the low load, low RPM regime where lean burn operates:

[[image:Honda_Insight_5mt.jpg]]


== '''2017 Mazda 3 Skyactiv gasoline engine'''== 

[[File:2017Mazda3.PNG]]


== '''Mercedes Benz 300SD OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel'''== 

[[image:Mercedes_Benz_OM617_5cyl_turbo_diesel.jpg|600px]]


== '''MG 1.8L B-Series'''== 

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC.jpg]]

BSFC map generated from the information below.

[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC_2.jpg]]


== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC'''== 

[[Image:saturn_99_1.9l_dohc_bsfc.jpg]]

== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC Modified'''==
[[Image:Saturn_1.9l_BSFC_cleaned.png]]

Saturn 1.9L BSFC: Included imperial units, Constant Horsepower curves, Engine Load %, and extrapolated to redline.


Approximate Vacuum readings on Magenta Optimum Efficiency Line:

6.7"hg at 1000 rpm

6.5"hg at 1500 rpm

5.7"hg at 2000 rpm

5.0"hg at 2500 rpm

3.8"hg at 3000 rpm

2.3"hg at 3500 rpm

1.3"hg at 4000 rpm

0.9"hg at 4500 rpm

0.2"hg at 5000 rpm

WOT at &gt;5100 rpm

== '''Skoda Felicia 1.3L MPI (50kW)'''==

[[File:Bsfc_felicia_mpi.jpg‎]]


== '''Subaru EJ22 2.2L SOHC'''== 

[[Image:Subaru-ej22-bsfc.png|600px]]


== '''Toyota 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE and possibly the 3.0L 3VZ-FE (Previous Engine)'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1mzfe_3.0l_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota 1.8L 1ZZ-FE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_98_1zzfe_bsfc.JPG]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.5L 1NZ-FXE'''== 

[[Image:toyota_1nzfxe_prius_bsfc.jpg]]


== '''Toyota Prius 1.8L 2ZR-FXE 2010-'''== 

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc1.jpg|600px]]

[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc2.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen 1.4L TSI'''== 

[[Image:VWTSI_BSFC.jpg|600px]]

There was an article on VW's cylinder deactivating TSI in a magazine (Serwis motoryzacyjny, 11/2011) and it had the following BSFC graph, illustrating an example of how cylinder deactivation can help reduce fuel consumption.

The red line '1' graphs constant engine power, in this example 30kW. By going to an rpm and load closer to the BSFC sweetspot the fuel consumption can be lowered by 20%. Deactivating half of the cylinders helps to increase the load, but among the things the article didn't state are:
Is that BSFC for the engine in 4-, or 2-cylinder mode? Or maybe combined? 
What would be the effect of only shifting gears? 
What would be the effect of only deactivating 2 cylinders? 

Anyhow, the article claimed that only deactivating the cylinders reduced fuel consumption by 0.4 l/100km in the NEDC cycle, while with the Start/Stop system 0.6 l/100km. At steady, low speeds and loads the fc can be reduced by 0.7-1.0 l/100km. The cylinders are deactivated when engine speed is between 1400 and 4000 rpm, and torque between 25 and 75 Nm (the max torque is 250 Nm).


== '''Volkswagen 1.5L diesel'''== 

[[Image:Vw15d.png|600px]]


== '''Volkswagen 2.0L 5 cyl diesel'''== 

[[Image:vw_5cyl_2.0l_diesel.jpg]]


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH 1999.5-2003'''== 

[[image:ALH BSFC map with power hyperbolae.png]]

Each curve represents a constant horsepower developed by the engine. If you are driving on a given road with a constant grade, speed, and ambient conditions, regardless of which gear you are in, it requires roughly the same amount of power to overcome aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance and driveline losses. Therefore, regardless of what gear you're in, you're riding anywhere along the same blue curve; exactly where you sit on that blue curve being only dependent on the gear you're in and therefore the RPM at which the engine is turning over.

In the case of the TDI BSFC chart, if I take the example of operating on a certain speed such that the power is 20 HP, the lowest BSFC occurs when running at the gear that corresponds to about 1250 RPM. If I run at either a higher- or lower RPM from this point, my BSFC will increase. This is about the only point in the entire engine map where it would be disadvantageous to operate at an even higher gear if one were available (lower RPM) because of the worsening BSFC. Almost everywhere else, the lowest BSFC is achieved at the lowest possible RPM at a given power.


== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0L 2009'''== 

[[Image:vw_09_jetta_tdi_2.0l_bsfc.JPG]]</text>
    <sha1>b322d42f302925fa02f13e82a1a4b32ff06fa60b</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
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  <title>Reference threads on aerodynamics</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:46:10Z</timestamp>
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      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]  Here are some threads with the most commonly used aerodynamic charts, graphs and pictures.  [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/index..."</comment>
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Here are some threads with the most commonly used aerodynamic charts, graphs and pictures.

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/index-phil-knox-aerodynamics-seminars-mod-data-lists-7118.html Index of Phil Knox Aerodynamics Seminars &amp; Mod-data lists]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerodynamic-streamlining-template-part-c-9287.html Aerodynamic Streamlining Template]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerodynamic-streamlining-template-overlay-zx2-11266.html Pictures of cars with the ideal shape overlaid]


Talk thread for this page:
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-hypermiling-page-thread-hypermiling-wiki-main-page-14457.html#post192644 Wiki Hypermiling thread]

--[[User:WeatherSpotter-9828|WeatherSpotter-9828]] 14:44, 6 September 2010 (EDT)</text>
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  <title>EV Batteries</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T13:47:36Z</timestamp>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt; ---- [[File:Electric-car-batteries.jpg|right|200px]]  === EV Batteries List ===  ==== Lead-Acid ====  :Standard lead acid batteries are d..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="3554" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
----
[[File:Electric-car-batteries.jpg|right|200px]]

=== EV Batteries List ===

==== Lead-Acid ====

:Standard lead acid batteries are designed for massive bursts of startup current (denoted as locked rotor, or cold crank amps) usually in excess of 500 Amps. Electric Vehicles, on the other hand require relatively steady discharge, from fully charged all the way down to mostly flat, before recharging again. The lead plates inside the battery required for this purpose are thicker than standard car batteries and are usually referred to as "deep cycle".

::* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery Standard Lead Acid Battery]
::* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_cycle_battery Deep Cycle Lead Acid Battery]


==== carbonfoam-acid (Firefly) ====
: The Carbon foam battery was in mid 2010 put forward as a lighter more energy dense replacement for the lead acid battery. Unfortunately the firefly company was unable to convince the Department of Defence (who were funding the research?) that it's product was worthwhile and the Firefly company subsequently [http://ceramics.org/ceramictechtoday/2010/03/17/plug-pulled-on-firefly-energy-carbon-foam-battery-design/ went out of business].


==== Lithium Ion Battery ====
: Lithium Ion are rechargable batteries that are popular in consumer electronics and power tools. They  have a higher energy density (pack more amp hours per kg) than lead acid batteries. For an Electric Vehicle, this means more miles and less weight, but the upfront cost is substantially higher.


==== Nickel-hydride ====
: Nickel Hydride, or more exactly Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries replaced NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) batteries in most consumer products in during the 1990's. Nickel Cadmium batteries suffered from memory effects (the battery would "remember" where it was last charged from, and only discharge back down to that level). NiMH batteries have for the most part been supplanted by Li-Ion Batteries, with usage dropping from around 60% in 2000 to 22% in 2011 due to Li-Ion having higher energy density. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93metal_hydride_battery Ref]


==== LiFePO4 ====
: Lithium Iron Phosphate are preferred for larger application such as electric vehicles and do not suffer from over discharge combustion problems seen in other Lithium battery types. From a weight point of view, typically a 30AH 48V pack is around 16KG compared to the similar Lead Acid of 46KG for the same energy storage, so a big weight saving will apply, but cost would be substantially higher.

:The peak current however for a the LiFePO4 will not be as high as the Lead Acid. Lead Acid CCA (cold crank amps, or peak short term current) for a 30AH pack is 200 Amps, whereas the equivalent LiFePO4 battery would have a surge rating of 90A. 

:Discharge Depth will also vastly impact your battery life expectancy. A 30% discharge and recharge will give around 2000 discharge cycles, while a 100% discharge and recharge will shorten this to around 1/3. Lead Acid Batteries life also depend on discharge depth. A 100% discharge will shorten your Lead Acid to 300 recharges.

:Shelf Life of Lithium Batteries will be around 2 years, meaning whether you use them or not, the batteries will degrade just from sitting around. This compares with around 5 years for Lead Acid.

:Cells are 3.2V each, so a pack and must be made up of a large number of cells. Usually a Battery Management System (BMS) would be included in the pack to prevent thermal and overcurrent damage.</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Virtual Library</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]  Pardon the dust. This page is under construction. Thanks for your patience.  The following resources are intended to help members find and s..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="3503" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]

Pardon the dust. This page is under construction. Thanks for your patience.

The following resources are intended to help members find and share information on automotive aerodynamics and fuel economy.
= Books =
* Aerodynamics of Road Vehicles, ''From Fluid Mechanics to Vehicle Engineering'', 4th Edition, WH Hucho, 1998, [http://books.sae.org/book-r-177 SAE Books], [http://www.sae.org/images/books/toc_pdfs/R177.pdf TOC]
* [http://www.scribd.com/doc/35866801/Hoerner-Fluid-Dynamic-Drag-1985 Fluid-Dynamic Drag], SF Hoerner, 1965

= Technical Papers, Journal Articles, Student Projects &amp; Theses =
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;rct=j&amp;q=&amp;esrc=s&amp;source=web&amp;cd=1&amp;ved=0CHEQFjAA&amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fedocs.nps.edu%2Fnpspubs%2Fscholarly%2Ftheses%2F2003%2FSep%2F03Sep_Williams_Nathan.pdf&amp;ei=CpLnT4CsOsPL0QGI4-ThCQ&amp;usg=AFQjCNEbFs6h4wSYVPWtseLWD_ZCDa8onA&amp;sig2=qUUaZ-3tJt5ScpkEGnwjig Drag Optimization of Light Trucks using CFD], NA Williams, Naval Postgraduate School Thesis, 2003
* [http://msrsas.org/docs/sastech_journals/archives/Sept2009/2.pdf Exterior Styling of an Intercity Transport Bus for Improved Aerodynamic Performance], A Raveendran, D Rakesh &amp; SN Sridhara, SASTECH, 2009
* [http://www.technicaljournalsonline.com/ijeat/VOL%20II/IJAET%20VOL%20II%20ISSUE%20III%20JULY%20SEPTEMBER%202011/ARTICLE%2020%20IJAET%20VOLII%20ISSUE%20III%20JULY%20SEPT%202011.pdf Computational Analysis of Intercity Bus with Imroved Aesthetics &amp; Aerodynamic Performance on Indian Rads], Sachin Thorat &amp; G.Amba Prasad Rao, IJAET, 2011
* [http://csus-dspace.calstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10211.9/123/Thesis%20-%20Final.pdf?sequence=1 CFD Study of Drag Reduction of a Generics SUV], PN Krishnani, MS ME Thesis, CA State Univ, Sacramento, 2009
* [http://www.docstoc.com/docs/46337397/Drag-Reduction-of-Your-Regular-Everyday-Pickup-MAE-571 Drag Reduction of Your Regular Everyday Pickup], MAE 571
* [http://faculty.kfupm.edu.sa/AE/amg/Publications%5C2003_01_0651.pdf Experimental Investigation of the Near Wake of a Pick-up Truck], AM Al-Garni, LP Bernal (Univ. MI) &amp; B Khalighi (GM), SAE, 2003
* [http://csus-dspace.calstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10211.9/169/combined-finished.pdf?sequence=1 Drag Reduction of Pickup Truck using Add-on Devices], FA Adem, Thesis MS ME CA State Univ, Sacramento, 2009
*[http://books.google.de/patents/US4573730.pdf Drag reducing partial tonneau for pickup truck], GM (TR Gondert, RA MacDonald), US Patent 4573730, 1986
* [http://www.sinhadeturb.com/TTDeturbFinalPaper.pdf http://www.sinhadeturb.com/TTDeturbFinalPaper.pdf], SK Sinha, SAE, 2008
* 1976 Kevin Cooper Can NRC Motorcycle mag. art


Raw Leads (to do)
* extras.springer.com/2004/978-3-540-22088-6/009.pdf
* http://etheses.nottingham.ac.uk/2160/1/490832.pdf
* http://cpdlt.mae.ufl.edu/pdf/2000/sae00c99r.pdf
* http://www.osti.gov/bridge/servlets/purl/376410-iTVIdO/webviewable/376410.pdf (http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/another-candy-store-22358.html)
* http://www.openfoamworkshop.org/2009/4th_Workshop/1_Automotive_and_Combustion/OFW4_2009_Gagnon_paper.pdf
* http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/143210.pdf

= Academic Faculty and Research Organizations (not for profit) =
= Commercial Organizations =
= Wind Tunnels =
* A2
* VW
= Annual Competitions, Shows &amp; Special Events =
= CFD Software, Design &amp; Analysis Software =
* Fluent
* OpenFOAM
* Flow Illustrator
= Other Resources =
If something doesn't fit above it can go here. Categories will follow as needed.</text>
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  <title>Block Heater</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T21:20:07Z</timestamp>
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      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:BlockHeater.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]] Image:universalheater...."</comment>
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    <text bytes="4579" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:BlockHeater.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
[[Image:universalheater.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Block heaters slowly pre-warm the engine before starting with a 200 to 600 watt 110volt heating element that is directly installed into the engine block. The reduced warm-up time can dramatically improve fuel economy, especially for short trips. It is recommended to put the heater on a timer that starts to heat the engine no more than about 3 hours before departure to avoid wasting electricity. The ultimate way to warm the engine faster and use less electrical power is to use the biggest block heater you can get your hands on, if one isn't enough use two. With multiple high wattage block heaters it becomes possible to warm the engine up faster and by default disbursing less heat into the surrounding environment. This cuts warm up times down to well under an hour. &lt;br&gt;
Use immersion heaters that come in direct contact with engine coolant for best result. Only use stick on heaters as a last resort.&lt;br&gt;
Not to be confused with high power coolant warmers, these usually require forced circulation and are fuel burning, 110 or 220 volt powered.

== Instructions for mod ==
Refer to workshop manual and installation instructions for block heaters for installation methods&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
See how to's for some car specific instructions in the references at the bottom of this page.&lt;br&gt;
The block heater shown to the right is a Kat's universal 400 watt block heater. It has 3/4 inch male pipe threads making it able to thread into lots of places.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Doax || Toyota, matrix, 2003 || ~$60 USD || ~ 1.5 Hours ||  ||  || ~4% (During winter less than 2MPG) no hard data just rough estimation. ||[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/geo-metro-block-heater-how-5682.html Metro block heater install] (not Doax's install) 
|-
|TomO || 1994 Honda Civc VX || $45 USD || &lt; 1 Hours || 43.12 || 44.93 || 4.2% (1.81 MPG) tank to tank data, but consistent route and driving || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/civic-block-heater-install-765.html VX block heater install]
|-
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $50 || 2 Hours ||  ||  || Not tested. My engine defenitely start well when cold, i'm saving. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Block Heater]
|-
|Oil Pan 4 || Chevy suburban diesel 84 || $100 USD || 3.5 Hours ||  ||  || FE effect untested. Was able to raise coolant temperature from -2'C to 22'C in 15 minutes with out running the engine || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-3500w-engine-warmer-23893.html 3500 watt universal fit coolant heater]
|-
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
- User of electricity to heat car before traveling may outweigh the environmental and financial savings of modification&lt;br&gt;
- Idle reduction&lt;br&gt;
- Enter the much more efficient closed loop mode sooner.&lt;br&gt;
- Remove frost so you can see, avoid crashing into objects.&lt;br&gt;

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mini-experiments-300w-vs-800w-block-heater-warm-817.html Mini experiments: 300w vs. 800w block heater warm up time]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/geo-metro-block-heater-how-5682.html Geo Metro block heater - How To]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/civic-block-heater-install-765.html Civic VX block heater install]

[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/2003-toyota-matrix-block-heater-387.html 2003 Toyota Matrix Block Heater]]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-3500w-engine-warmer-23893.html Fast warm up ideas, 3500w coolant heater]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-5-500-watt-19-a-32503.html 5,500 watt coolant heater, Just incase 3500w isn't fast enough]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/block-heater-sizing-25512.html Engine block heater sizing]

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/850-watt-tank-style-coolant-heater-installed-blackfly-104.html 850 watt tank style heater in a metro]

=== External links ===

=== Related mods ===
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Coolant_Heater</text>
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  <title>Road Load Equation</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "To return to the main simulations page&lt;br&gt; [[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]]&lt;br&gt;   The road load equation describes all the forces applied to your ca..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="3271" xml:space="preserve">To return to the main simulations page&lt;br&gt;
[[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]]&lt;br&gt;


The road load equation describes all the forces applied to your car: aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, and braking. [http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php EcoModder's calculator] can crunch these numbers for you for steady state driving on flat ground, if you know a few parameters such as your car's mass, CdA, and CRR. Looking through the equations behind the calculator will give you insight into what aspects of your car and driving affect your fuel economy.


'''Aerodynamic drag''' is given by F = ½ * Cd * A * ρ * V².

Cd*A is drag coefficient times frontal area. You can look up these values for your car in the wiki [link]. Cd describes the smoothness of the vehicle's shape, but frontal area is just as important. These variables never appear seperately from each other in the physics. Much of our work on EcoModder is an effort to improve our Cd, to move through the air while disturbing as little of it as possible.

ρ is the density of air, which is around 1.3kg/m³, but varies with temperature and barometric pressure. Your car will cut through the air better when the air is thinner, e.g. when it's hotter, or at higher elevations. Don't ignore this term.

V² is your vehicle's airspeed, SQUARED. This means that driving twice as fast means four times as much aerodynamic drag. A headwind or even a crosswind will give you an airspeed higher than the value on your speedometer. A crosswind will also increase the CdA of a car that's optimized for driving forward, such as a bus, tractor trailer, or a Prius.

Cars and bicycles generally spend the majority of their energy overcoming aerodynamic drag. You can improve your fuel economy by reducing any of the factors in the above equation: slower speeds, a more slippery shape, a narrower or shorter car, or thinner air.  Note that aerodynamic drag is not affected by mass (assuming that weight of that mass doesn't deflect your suspension).


'''Rolling resistance''' = CRR * weight = CRR * mass * gravitational acceleration

CRR is your coefficient of rolling resistance, a property dependent on your tire and the road surface. Low rolling resistance (LRR) tires are an excellent way to reduce your CRR.

USCS people will probably use lbs for weight.  The metric system makes it clear that mass is an amount of material (measurable in kg), while weight is a force due to gravity.

Note that according to this simplified model, the force of rolling resistance is the same regardless of vehicle speed, while aerodynamic drag varies with V². The amount of rolling resistance per mile depends only on your vehicle's weight and CRR.  In reality, your CRR rises significantly above about 50mph, but for most cars, aerodynamic drag force completely dominates the equation at those speeds.


So, the road load equation for steady state (constant speed) driving on flat land with no wind is:

F = ½*CdA*ρ*V² + CRR*m*g.

This makes for simple math, but it really only applies to highway driving, and even then not all the time.  Still, studying the steady state road load gives you insight into what parameters of your car and driving cause you to spend the most gas.</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/Controllersetting</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}   '''Ki and Kp''' adjust how quickly the motor current matches what you are inputting via the accelerator.  Different values will affect the response an..."</comment>
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'''Ki and Kp''' adjust how quickly the motor current matches what you are inputting via the accelerator.  Different values will affect the response and will cause oscillations and a feeling of jerkiness if they don't match the motor and system voltage.


'''t-pos-gain and t-pwm gain''' adjust the sensitivity of the accelerator.  The equation in the code is:


Throttle = throttle_input * t-pos-gain / 8  -  PWM * t-pwm-gain / 8


Because PWM is essentially related to vehicle speed, the default setting of 8 and 0 (for t-pos-gain and t-pwm-gain, respectively) mean that the output current will always be equal to the throttle input.  Changing the settings to 16 and 0 would make the throttle twice as sensitive since the code will multiply the throttle input by a factor of 2.  


Increasing the value of t-pwm-gain will cause the throttle to decrease as the vehicle speeds up and has the effect of making the throttle less sensitive at higher speeds.  This is useful for applications that require high amps at low speed and less sensitive throttle at higher speeds.  Settings of 16 and 8 would make the throttle twice as sensitive at low speeds; the throttle will become less sensitive as the vehicle speed (and PWM) increase.  If PWM were to go to its max, the throttle would return to normal sensitivity.  A setting of 16 and 12 would have a similar effect, but the throttle would be at normal sensitivity at 66% PWM and only half sensitivity at 100% PWM.


'''c-rr''' defines how quickly the throttle responds to controller input.  Higher values create a more responsive feel while lower values are smoother and more gradual.


The table below includes controller settings for various applications.  These are all settings that are changeable via serial cable and terminal software.  Use this information to help tune your controller - Once it's working well, add your data to the table!

{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto; text-align:center; " border="1"
|+ '''Application and Controller Settings Database'''
! N || UserName || Pack Voltage || Motor Brand/Model || Vehicle Weight || Kp || Ki || t-pos-gain || t-pwm-gain || c-rr || Comments

|-
! 1
| Joe || 144V || Impulse 9 || 3750 lb || 2 || 20 || 17 || 9 || 6 || Very smooth 100% of the time.  Throttle settings have a very natural feel 

|-
! 2
| Adam || 36V || GE 6" || 1125 lb || 300 || 150 || 8 || 0 || 6 ||  Very smooth 100% of the time.  A side note, This is a direct drive golf cart. 

|-
! 3
| Chris || 48V (maybe upgrade to higher in future) || ?? (Pulled off Scrapped Fork Truck; tag was unreadable) || ?? lb || ??? || ??? || ? || ? || ? ||  Just finished building controller, still collaborating for my EV Motorcycle

|-
! 4
| Mike || 96V || ADC L91-4003 || 3000 lb || 6 || 50 || 17 || 9 || 15 ||  Very smooth now: after building my controller I ran on the settings installed by Paul i.e. 2, 160, 0, 0, 6. New setting have removed the lag time at start off to a smoother, linear performance, i.e. 0-40 MPH 12 seconds at new settings. 2,500 miles and counting.

|-
! 5
| Greg || 144V || Impulse 9 || 2200 lb || 2 || 11 || 17 || 0 || 6 || I started with Joe's settings, but it felt a bit to lively, probably due to my car being much lighter. The weight is an estimate, still need to get it weighed.</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/Case</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T21:21:42Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  The Cougar Case is a pre-fabricated case made in Australia.  [http://www.hometheatre.net.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=57_61&amp;products_id=19..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="1617" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

The Cougar Case is a pre-fabricated case made in Australia.

[http://www.hometheatre.net.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=57_61&amp;products_id=195&amp;zenid=a21fbd2e8985b95d0e580bb055b446fa Cougar Case]

Paul's original design used a flat aluminum base plate, U-shaped aluminum cover and plastic end plates.

The base plate was 8"x11"x3/8" aluminum.  The material and thickness were chosen for heat dissipation rather than strength.

The sides and top were bent from a 16"x11"x1/8" piece of aluminum.   The enclosed volume was approximately 11" x 6-3/4" x 4", with 1/2" outward-facing mounting wings.

An aluminum base plate was chosen primarily for its good thermal conductivity.  It's much less expensive and lighter than the few alternate choices (e.g. copper or silver).  Using aluminum for the upper case avoided dissimilar metallic joints, and provided some additional cooling surface.

Using conductive material for most of the case blocks some of electrical noise.  Aluminum does an excellent job of blocking EMI, although this advantage is greatly reduced with a non-metallic end piece.

Internally the active power devices (e.g. MOSFETs and diodes) are thermally connected but electrically isolated from a heat spreader bar.  The first few units used a 0.75"x1.5"x8" copper heat spreader, while later units used aluminum bars with the same dimensions.

The heat spreader was stacked with the main power board and bolted to the base. Four fasteners were used, with with 2.5" long 1/4" screws covered with heat shrink going through 5/16" holes in the heat spreader and circuit board.</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics</title>
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    <contributor>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  == Open ReVolt - CellTop Battery Management System (Rev1) ==  ''' CellTop Module: '''  [https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUomOuSIjY63K Preliminary BOM..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="14829" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

== Open ReVolt - CellTop Battery Management System (Rev1) ==

''' CellTop Module: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUomOuSIjY63K Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXu3rGSUiuaUc Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sK1uiDx9qb7YD Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s28ADmsLHA88G Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

''' CellTop Master: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5mq5YCi6YjXO Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s4MFQqkmu13ML Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scziGCXNZJMKr Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1shxpnYU5Ngbg4 Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

''' CellTop Documents: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s0uWofVYGE5Eh Preliminary BMS User Manual (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - DC Charger Controller 6Kw (Rev3) ==

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439199/sizes/l/in/photostream/ Preliminary PCB Layout -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439151/sizes/o/in/photostream/ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scXBEcCWHENHN Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXR1VWbFY87D4 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUsqETB3N8oV1 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sEYd13KtqPKQ5 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stkveleELMIC8 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stcUKXgJItXk7 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHJFxDBK3ObI7 Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev2A) ==

[Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDiq0XqTVqeyX Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sOSW0TgM2d0y0 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjGiidbRQ0qOp Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev5A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sD6LzJxAMwvtM Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sQ0pzY4VDcAwp Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sBlTxFOxFCFFR Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDdsf6n9VKLEd Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5OKJGCOWwcEJ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sF35Efjb4SCip Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Hall Effect Current Sensor Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPlltzzhLqxfF Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHici53T0FAOz Preliminary PCB Assembly -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 03 May 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sz9IOCpgCyC6L Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - LCD Instrumentation Controller (Rev1) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1siYJfUUU3e0kK Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sp06BvWTqvs3F Preliminary BOM (excel) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1spUClAWf8vqrU Preliminary Schematic rev1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sugjur1LFWOAA Preliminary PCB Artwork rev1 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s8vMJ61vDESN2 Preliminary PCB User Manual rev1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPmgPBC108Wgy Preliminary Firmware v1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - AC Motor Controllers ==

'''Paul's ReVolt/AC Motor Controller'''
&lt;BR&gt;Schematic and PCB are in DesignSpark format.
&lt;BR&gt;Still under development. See: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-3-phase-inverter-ac-controller-10839.html the forum thread.]

'''2014 Oct 4th:'''
&lt;BR&gt;[https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4lcT_Jmb67Qd2QxYTk0Z1RqWFE&amp;usp=sharing SCH, PCB, BOM and code]

'''2010 Sept 21:'''&lt;BR&gt;
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5zHMQpeGfbap Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYLaUVLcWOoiL Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYhvximLJKQa6 Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]


'''Collin's ReVolt/VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project (2011 Nov 4) :'''

[[http://code.google.com/p/revolt-ac-controller] VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project -- 
[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Nov 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - SR Motor Controller (Rev.A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1srbpZ32Vr19de Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stsgq6v9aYC42 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scWPEOCH6j2IA Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2D) ==

'''Added File Links:'''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s7mT29cH5qNDP Reference BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5LcFcizgkxSi Reference Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sf9j9AFw34nfS Reference PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

'''Original Quick reference schematics:'''

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/CougarController_2D_1s.pdf Controller Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougar_power_2d.pdf Powerboard Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Cougar_build_test_notes.pdf Build and testing notes v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

'''Original Full archives from MCUDOGS inc schematics, pcb files and software:'''

[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/power1d.zip Power board V1d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)]  (Broken Link)

[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/controller2d.zip Controller board V2d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougarpics.pdf Pictures of the cougar 2D being built (from Ian Bartie) PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

Please note: The current software does not utilise the additional pins in the new hardware.

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Assembly_Directions_March_2010.pdf Assembly instructions for ORIGINAL hardware v2C PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

These assembly instructions detail the original boards build processes and are useful for general reference. This was released by MPaulHolmes on his site, it is included here for accesability and completeness.There is also this forum thread on assembly which is most useful. 
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-revolt-assembly-faqs-12925.html ]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2C) == 

'''Added File Links:'''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1slrYVfykEpb0V Release BOM Controller -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sSGzSxxkzUU4E Release Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDEErY2VvmJAf Release PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/ Release Firmware - Archive] 13 October 2012 (EDT)

[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Release Software - ReVolt RTD Explore] 13 October 2012 (EDT)

'''Original File Links:'''

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Changes_for_Revision_2C.doc Cougar Controller Changes for Revision 2C DOC --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf Bottom Layer rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf  Top Layer rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf  Component Layer rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf  Controller Schematic PDF rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic_All.pdf  Controller Schematic PDF rev2C All PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[[Open ReVolt Rev2C Mouser BOM Cut/Paste Import]]
- Cut and Paste this into the Mouser BOM import tool to load all the control board parts.  Be sure to check for items that are temporarily out of stock.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2B) == 


[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/bottom_layer.pdf Bottom Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_layer.pdf Top Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_and_component.pdf Top and Component Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/component_layer.pdf Component Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic_All.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B ALL PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Controller Settings ==
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjc9rcEg4FisL ReVolt Control Parameters.doc ]

[[Open ReVolt/Controllersetting|Cougar Controller Setting Database]]

== Open ReVolt - Software ==
[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Adam's RTD Explore]

[https://www.launchpad.net/cougard Greg's CougArd Explore]

[http://live.gnome.org/moserial moserial] An open source, easy to use terminal program.

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-479.html#post238071 How to setup moserial for the Cougar]

== Open ReVolt - Case ==
[[Open ReVolt/Case|Cougar Case]]

== Open ReVolt - Problems/Failures ==

'''NOTE:''' This section is to post problems/failures that occurred in the construction and installation of ReVolt Controllers.  

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-374.html#post191429 Joe's Cougar Controller failure, repair, and fix]

== Open ReVolt - Testing ==
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html Revolt Open Source DC Controller Beta Testing]

== Open ReVolt - Specifications ==
[[Open ReVolt/Specifications|Cougar Specifications]] (broken link ???)

== Open ReVolt - DIY Assembly Directions ==
[[Open ReVolt/DIY Assembly Directions|Cougar DIY Assembly Directions]]</text>
    <sha1>a8e3fabbb51e5c7ca0923bb960290858c8d61cf8</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Open ReVolt/Control board</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>118</id>
  <revision>
    <id>119</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:03:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  '''Bill of Materials, Open ReVolt Control Board Rev 2C: 09-22-2009''' {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1"  ! Description !! Part..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="11167" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

'''Bill of Materials, Open ReVolt Control Board Rev 2C: 09-22-2009'''
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1" 
! Description !! Part Number !! Vendor Link !! Reference Designator !! Qty !! Unit Cost(USD) !! Total Cost(USD) !! Unit Cost(AUD) !! Total Cost(AUD) !! Distributor
|-
|Electrolytic Capacitor, 470uf 25V || EEU-FC1E471 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqDNVLePXKBO0qpNye%2fEsK%2fI%3d EEU-FC1E471] || C1 || 1 || 0.57 || 0.57 || 1 || 1 || Mouser
|-
|Electrolytic Capacitor, Lo ESR, 100uf 25V || EEU-FC1E101S || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqC6EvpC6iOvs78r2%2fvmoSgk%3d EEU-FC1E101S] || C13 || 1 || 0.23 || 0.23 || 0.41 || 0.41 || Mouser
|-
|Electrolytic Capacitor, 10uf 25V || UPW1E100MDD || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqACmtJ2YRvYOGDNHnElGX6g%3d UPW1E100MDD] || C14 || 1 || 0.11 || 0.11 || 0.2 || 0.2 || Mouser
|-
|Ceramic Capacitor, 0.1uf 25V || K104K15X7RF5TH5 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZNaBwupcnfl2GHhuVIbtnIM%3d K104K15X7RF5TH5] || C2 C3 C4 C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11 C12  C15 C18 C19  || 13 || 0.06 || 0.78 || 0.11 || 1.43 || Mouser
|-
|Ceramic capacitor, .022uf 50V || RPER71H223K2K1A03B || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZLdd0oiAwgv6SokL0MfslcI%3d RPER71H223K2K1A03B] || C22 C25 || 2 || 0.19 || 0.38 || 0.19 || 0.38 || Mouser
|-
|Ceramic Capacitor, COG,20pf 50V || RPE5C1H150J2P1Z03B || [http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt1mVBmZSXTPMsbzfcJa9gEgam%2fU5TTp0o%3d 140-50N2-200J-RC] || C23 C24 || 2 || 0.07 || 0.14 || 0.3 || 0.6 || Mouser
|-
|Ceramic Capacitor, 4.7uf 16V || FK26X7R1C475K || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZDqsLtYNhfDK%2fGKUufpEEME%3d FK26X7R1C475K] || C5 C16 C17 C20 C21 || 5 || 0.29 || 1.45 || 0.51 || 2.55 || Mouser
|-
|RS232 Transceiver || TRS202ECN || [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TRS202ECN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtnIqnDeWcRHWI38aDrBTNBLAGTpxcqmuc%3d] || U4 || 1 || 1.12 || 1.12 || 1.66 || 1.66 || Mouser
|-
|Ultra fast rectifier diode.200V 3A DO-15 || STTH1R02QRL || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=STTH1R02QRLvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-STTH1R02QRL STTH1R02QRL] || D1 || 1 || 0.57 || 0.57 || 0.57 || 0.57 || Mouser
|-
|Transient Voltage Suppressor, 18V || P6KE18A || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=P6KE18Avirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-P6KE18A P6KE18A] || D2 D6 || 2 || 0.37 || 0.74 || 0.74 || 0.74 || Mouser
|-
|Small signal diode || 1N4148TR || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kC4Bz7vbB60wMTAJSn%252bNt9k%3d 1N4148TR] || D3 || 1 || 0.03 || 0.03 || 0.06 || 0.06 || Mouser
|-
|5mm LED, Green || SSL-LX5093LGD || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuus4pmcqQnztbUTAnot12aKfGntohK8Ww%3d SSL-LX5093LGD] || D4 || 1 ||   0.12  ||  0.12 || ?? || ?? || Mouser
|-
|5mm LED, Yellow || SSL-LX5093LYD || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuus4pmcqQnzgR91pXKdodmSzIV5sOMKOA%3d SSL-LX5093LYD] || D5 || 1 || 0.15 || 0.15 || 0.27 || 0.27 || Mouser
|-
|Zener Diode 8.2V 500mW || 1N5237B || [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N5237B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsnCtsnHQqDlTxbWudIpp9C0pu70KjwjwU%3d 1N5237B] || D7 || 1 || 0.04 || 0.04 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser
|-
|Schottky Diode,1A 30V || 1N5818 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kOnWbBYZueaHR%2f3ZZX7u%2f84%3d 1N5818] || D8 D9 || 2 || 0.09 || 0.18 || 0.16 || 0.32 || Mouser
|-
|3-pin rt angle header, .100” pitch || 22-05-3031 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukXCIZ6E1E4B72YUVByG9S5lsq5BYEnSc%3d 22-05-3031] || J2 || 1 || 0.52 || 0.52 || 0.92 || 0.92 || Mouser
|-
|6-pin header, 2X3, .100” pitch || 90131-0123 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukXCIZ6E1E4GNidyA06%2fy79PVfMzSQzrM%3d 90131-0123] || J4 || 1 || 0.37 || 0.37 || 0.65 || 0.65 || Mouser
|-
|4-pin MOLEX connector || 22-01-3047 || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3047/?qs=cRUT3GdJqny7%252bjvo4bugHw%3d%3d 22-01-3047] || J3 || 1 || 0.29 || 0.29 || ?? || ?? || Mouser
|-
|3-pin MOLEX connector || 22-01-3037 || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3037/?qs=cRUT3GdJqnw5IA1z0J2xqA%3d%3d 22-01-3037] || J2 || 1 || 0.22 || 0.22 || ?? || ?? || Mouser
|-
|3&amp;4 pin housing crimp pins || 08-50-0114 || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0114/?qs=BLN8Q0P37WapYBZgTV5Zeg%3d%3d 08-50-0114] || N/A || 7 || 0.11 || 0.77 || ?? || ?? || Mouser
|-
|Common Mode Choke, 3mH 1A || RN102-1-02 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RN102-1-02virtualkey63120000virtualkey631-RN102-1/02 RN102-1-02] || L1 || 1 || 1.68 || 1.68 || 1.68 || 1.68 || Mouser
|-
|P channel Mosfet, 60V 17A || FQPF27P06 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=FQPF27P06virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-FQPF27P06 FQPF27P06] || Q1 || 1 || 1.04 || 1.04 || ?? || ?? || Mouser
|-
|NPN Transistor, 40V 200mA || 2N3904TFR || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDHCWHhuFg%252bWn6eZWqyhR2OKKBRFhqSqM%3d 2N3904TFR] || Q2 || 1 || 0.08 || 0.08 || 0.14 || 0.14 || Mouser
|-
|PNP Transistor, 40V 200mA || 2N3906TFR || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDHCWHhuFg%252bUt75U4khoVwowhxykEqZQk%3d 2N3906TFR] || Q3 || 1 || 0.07 || 0.07 || 0.13 || 0.13 || Mouser
|-
|1W resistor 5% 1 Ohm || 294-1.0-RC || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCQIGbZVRXMFOkr%2fJRGMWJSWsWzTDM%2fHE%3d 294-1.0-RC] || R1 || 1 || 0.18 || 0.18 || 0.32 || 0.32 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor 1%, 10K || MF1/4DC1002F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintaV6tdIyR0vgH5x5pPOZFNA%3d MF1/4DC1002F] || R12 R13 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.22 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor 1%, 750 Ohm || MF1/4DC7500F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintbnLGTORVxfOnydIiQG%2fT6Q%3d MF1/4DC7500F] || R14 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser
|-
|¼ W resistor 1%, 330Omh || MF1/4DC3300F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintQpAvJXrugjU5KX0ud7w1J0%3d MF1/4DC3300F] || R22 R23  || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.22 || Mouser
|-
|¼ W resistor 1%, 220Omh || MF1/4DC2200F || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4DC2200F/?qs=08LOM%252b2KU0b4jdsk8mjRmA%3d%3d MF1/4DC2200F] || R15  || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor 1%, 3K || MF1/4DC3001F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintUiD6ThywFkmCZJ53j76lqE%3d MF1/4DC3001F] || R18 R28 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.2 || Mouser
|-
|¼ W resistor 1%, 4.7K || MF1/4DC4701F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintcz5xvIsmFVb44QUT9DMObo%3d MF1/4DC4701F] || R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R10 R16 R24 R30 || 9 || 0.06 || 0.54 || 0.11 || 0.99 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor1%, 20K || MF1/4DC2002F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintZyQ59SxuWMmzlTXmRqgb5M%3d MF1/4DC2002F] || R27 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser
|-
|¼W resistor 1%, 3.74K || MF1/4DC3741F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintVklHVCN9JIJCKp3ZQ73twc%3d MF1/4DC3741F] || R29 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor 1%, 1K || MF1/4DC1001F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintcQZaKZohxLGzucZoOhkK80%3d MF1/4DC1001F] || R7 R11 R17 R19 R20 R21 R25 R26 R31 || 9 || 0.06 || 0.54 || 0.11 || 0.99 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor 1% 2K || MF1/4DC2001F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintc7qPMoqugSHDGKxSviIIE4%3d MF1/4DC2001F] || R8 R9 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.22 || Mouser
|-
|1/4W resistor 1% 22 Ohm || 271-22-RC || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=271-22-RCvirtualkey21980000virtualkey271-22-RC 271-22-RC] || GR1 ... GR10 || 10 || 0.09 || 0.90 || ?? || ?? || Mouser
|-
|10K NTC Thermister || B57862S103F40 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv9eKVyXEc%252bhAZUpToxTU3S%252bV0oBOQFb6k%3d B57862S103F40] || RT1 || 1 || 2.41 || 2.41 || 4.23 || 4.23 || Mouser
|-
|Linear Regulator +5V 1A || LM7805CT || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtUqDgmOWBjgPJMQlYvsHAW%252bBbwCYnQla0%3d LM7805CT] || U1 || 1 || 0.37 || 0.37 || 0.65 || 0.65 || Mouser
|-
|Presion shunt reference,2.5V || LM4040D251LP || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuBck1X%252b7j9fK0Q2jxjfQGggT3eMS8uGEk%3d LM4040D25ILP] || U10 || 1 || 0.72 || 0.72 || 1.12 || 1.12 || Mouser
|-
|Optocoupler, fet output || TLP222G (F) || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt82OzCyDsLFJY8BJ1bAr52YKoL2mlHFnc%3d TLP222G] || U11 || 1 || 1.35 || 1.35 || 2.37 || 2.37 || Mouser
|-
|Isolated 12V-12V DC/DC Converter 6W || EC4A02H || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtwaiKVUtQsNVEV%2fwrjnskQvJKQLG%252b%2fma8%3d EC4A02H] || U2 || 1 || 15.58 || 15.58 || 27.34 || 27.34 || Mouser
|-
|ATMega168 Microcontroller || ATMEGA168-20PU || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATmega168-20PU/?qs=aqrrBurbvGdMdllC0pUwIg%3d%3d] || U3 || 1 || 3.66 || 3.66 || 3.66 || 3.66 || Mouser
|-
|Q 2-input pos-NAND Gate || MC74HC00N || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMa9lbYwD6ZPgGq6Uv7B3Jx%252blyGTxa1Os%3d MC74HC00 (M74HC00B1R)] || U5A U5B U5C U5D || 1 || 0.31 || 0.31 ||  ||  || Mouser
|-
|Optocoupler, high speed CMR || HCPL-4504-000E || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs50KUSuyRkpmqwble0%2fe0H8CB3tV%252bFmmI%3d HCPL-4504-000E] || U6 || 1 || 1.89 || 1.89 || 3.32 || 3.32 || Mouser
|-
|12 Amp Mosfet Driver || MIC4451YN || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=576-1209-ND MIC4451YN] || U7 || 1 || 2.48 || 2.48 || 2.48 || 2.48 || Digi-Key
|-
|Dual Comparator || LM393NG || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuS%2fmO2LfY7hl8lkHciDoRI9sFD%2f%2f%2fPhHI%3d LM393NG] || U8 || 1 || 0.37 || 0.37 || 0.65 || 0.65 || Mouser
|-
|Optocoupler, transistor output || HCPL-817-000E || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvoTN%2fLRl0ZKcPkcGnxLYKUIGLe0%252bIwbWc%3d HCPL-817-000E] || U9 || 1 || 0.23 || 0.23 || 0.41 || 0.41 || Mouser
|-
|Trim Pot, Top Adj, 500 Ohm .5W || 3362P-1-501LF || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3362P-1-501LFvirtualkey65210000virtualkey652-3362P-1-501LF 3362P-1-501LF] || VR1 || 1 || 0.83 || 0.83 || 0.83 || 0.83 || Mouser
|-
|16 Mhz Crystal || FOXLF160-20 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtg8rPr%252bGIKJlzb9zBxq%252bSRFg%252b%252br7ORuKw%3d FOXLF160-20] || Y1 || 1 || 0.47 || 0.47 || 0.83 || 0.83 || Mouser
|-
|Control board PCB  || N/A || [http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/store/page2.html control board] ||  || 1 || $21.00 || $21.00 || || || Paul and Sabrina
|-
| || || || ||Total || $62.09 ||$67.80|| ???? || ||
|}</text>
    <sha1>05d99744645bf9c5aa8decb476000c89ff3ddd40</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Open ReVolt/Power board</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>119</id>
  <revision>
    <id>120</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:04:17Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  '''Power Section Components: Prices Last Verified on 2011-22-01''' {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1"  ! Description !! Part Nu..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2054" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

'''Power Section Components: Prices Last Verified on 2011-22-01'''
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1" 
! Description !! Part Number !! Quantity !! Cost !! Supplier
|-
| Power Mosfet || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=IRFP4668PBF-ND IRFP4668PBF] || 10 || $71.89 || Digikey
|-
| Power Diode || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=497-3553-5-ND STTH6002CW] || 10 || $47.00 || Digikey
|-
| Power Capacitor ||[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=P11622-ND P11622-ND] || 16 || $60.16 || Digikey
|-
| Polypropylene Capacitor ||[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&amp;keywords=ECW-F2225JB ECW-F2225JB] || 4 || $7.08 || Digikey
|-
|Current Transducer || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=398-1065-ND HASS 300-S] ||1 || $27.50 || Digikey
|-
| MOSFET Clamps || [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/MAX08G/?qs=IQR8xM2KsGgn8sWnGiROuQ%3d%3d MAX08G] || 20 || $5.20 || Mouser
|-
|Thermal Isolation Pad || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&amp;keywords=BER231-ND BER231-ND] || 1/8th || $28.36 || Digikey
|-
|Etched PCB || [http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/store/page2.html Board (etched)] ||1 || $55.00 || Paul and Sabrina
|-
|Aluminum Heat Spreader: 0.75"x1.5"x8" || [http://www.mcmaster.com/#8975k451/=3ddi6r PN 8975K451]  ||1 || $11.39 || McMaster-Carr
|-
|Aluminum Base Plate: 3/8"x8"x11" || ?? Where ever fine aluminum plates are sold ?? ||1 || $16 || Local Metal Shop
|-
|M- Bus Bar: 1/4"x3/4"x11.8", B+ and B-: 1/4"x3/4"x9.8" || [http://www.mcmaster.com/#8964k131/=3i373r PN 8964K131 ] ||3 || $33.75 || McMaster-Carr
|-
| 5/8" nylon spacers || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=879K-ND 879K-ND] || 4 || $0.87 || Digikey
|-
| 1/4" nylon spacers || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&amp;name=876K-ND 876K-ND] || 4 || $0.64 || Digikey
|-
| || || Total: || $327.04 ||
|}</text>
    <sha1>82fbf01d9df5d1d193ac66fd06805c506c71708c</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Open ReVolt/Fab Files</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>120</id>
  <revision>
    <id>121</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:04:38Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  == Fab Files for the ReVolt open source AC Motor Controller ==  ''Coming Soon.''  ---------------------------------------------------------------------..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1513" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

== Fab Files for the ReVolt open source AC Motor Controller ==

''Coming Soon.''

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Fab Files for the ReVolt open source SR Motor Controller ==

''Coming Soon.''

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Fab Files for the ReVolt/Cougar open source DC motor controller ==

''Note: Rev 2D uses heavy duty PCB powerboard as opposed to milled copper/fibreglass boards.''

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_fab_files.zip Controller Fab Files ZIP]--[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:34, 18 May 2009 (EDT)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_fabfiles_rev2C.zip Cougar Controller FabFiles for Revision 2C ZIP] --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Power Stage Gcode Files: --[[User:Adamj12b|Adamj12b]] 09:36, 25 August 2009 (EDT)

Top Image:

[[Image:Couger Top.jpg]]

Top Gcode: 
[http://www.adambrunette.com/Cougar/Couger%20Top.nc Top Etch And Drill File]

Bottom Image:

[[Image:Couger Bottom.jpg]]

Bottom Gcode:
[http://www.adambrunette.com/Cougar/Couger%20Bottom.nc Bottom Etch]

Layout Cad Files:
[http://www.adambrunette.com/Cougar/Couger%20Cad%20Files.zip DXF Cad Layout Files]</text>
    <sha1>dc5a916f88734fffaf41a7498f482245262ffb0a</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Open ReVolt/Software</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>121</id>
  <revision>
    <id>122</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:05:44Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  [http://svn.fastdigitech.ro/trac/openrevolt/browser/trunk svn repository] (browse only)  [http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="27402" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

[http://svn.fastdigitech.ro/trac/openrevolt/browser/trunk svn repository] (browse only)

[http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725 Development Environmet]

[http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2486.pdf ATmega8 Manual]

----

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/HighVoltageControllerIMPROVED_ECOM.C Current Controller Software]--[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 19:44, 21 May 2009 (EDT)

----

==Software Features and Revisions==

An Archive of firmware versions v0.10 through v1.11b is available at :http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/

:version 0.1 - first version tested
:version 0.2 - added PW (PWM) to realtime data
:version 0.3 - added thermal cutback code (to be checked by Paul)
:version 0.4 - added continous check of vref below 2V
:version 0.5 - declared some variables volatile to enforce execution within bounds of cli() and sei()
:version 0.6 - make ocr1a_lpf time constant longer - V0.5 oscillates if Kp,Ki are low (slow PI loop)
:version 0.7 - fixed stupid bug in config_pi() that caused Joe's problems (thanks Joe)
:version 0.8 - high pedal lockout added but not yet tested
:version 0.9 - store mutiple copies of configuration in EE prom (not yet tested)
:version 0.10 - code size reduction, correct thermal cutback starting point, selectable pwm low pass filter
:version 1.0 - in pi_loop() added cli() and sei() around update of OCR1A, added cli() after pi_loop
:version 1.1 - added battery amps and battery amp hour calculations (not yet tested)
:version 1.2 - added motor overspeed logic (experimental and not yet tested)
:version 1.3 - added battery amps limit (not yet tested) and changed motor overspeed parameters to 4 digit
:version 1.4 - new 8KHz PWM compile to option, added battery_amps_limit, spare, and crc, default_config PROGMEM
:version 1.5 - fixed ocr1a_lpf calculation - so battery amps limit should now work, added "restart" command
:version 1.6 - added support for ATMEGA168 (not yet tested)
:version 1.7 - moved motor overspeed logic (still not yet tested) from main() into interrupt code pi_loop()
:version 1.8 - added precharge timer, removed not needed code that measures pi_loop() execution time
:version 1.9 - forgot to calculate bat_amp_lim_510 when loading config from EEprom, now fixed (thanks Adam)
:version 1.10 - added configurable PWM dead zone and motor overspeed detect time for motor overspeed logic, configuration menu a little nicer, new watchdog handling (mainly for ATMega168)
:2010-01-10 fixed defines for PIND, DDRD, and PORTD in bootload168/misc.asm (no version change)
:version 1.11 - added motor_speed_calc_amps - attempt to avoid overspeed tripping when pedal is "pumped"


== Latest Software (cut and paste into avrstudio): ==
Create the 3 files listed in AVRStudio and add the code to the associated file.

== Cougar.c ==

&lt;pre&gt;
/*
firmware for cougar open source DC motor controller
*/

#include &lt;avr/io.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/pgmspace.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/interrupt.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/iom8.h&gt;
#include &lt;util/crc16.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/wdt.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/eeprom.h&gt;
#include &lt;stdio.h&gt;
#include &lt;stdlib.h&gt;
#include &lt;string.h&gt;

#include "cougar.h"

// now using automatically generated CRC file
#include "autocrc.h"

typedef struct {
	int throttle_ref;
	int current_ref;
	int current_fb;
	unsigned raw_hs_temp;
	unsigned raw_throttle;
} realtime_data_type;

typedef struct {
	long K1;
	long K2;
	long error_new;
	long error_old;
	long pwm;
} pi_storage_type;

typedef struct {
	unsigned magic;						// must be 0x12ab
	int Kp;								// PI loop proportional gain
	int Ki;								// PI loop integreal gain
	unsigned throttle_min_raw_counts;	// throttle low voltage (pedal to metal)
	unsigned throttle_max_raw_counts;	// throttle high voltage (foot off pedal)
	unsigned throttle_pos_gain;			// gain for actual throttle position
	unsigned throttle_pwm_gain;			// gain for pwm (voltage)
	int current_ramp_rate;				// current ramp rate
	int spare[7];						// spare parameters
	unsigned crc;						// checksum for verification
} config_type;

config_type default_config PROGMEM = {
	0x12ab,								// magic
	2,									// PI loop P gain (Joe's was 1)
	160,								// PI loop I gain (Joe's was 20)
	413,								// throttle low voltage (pedal to metal)
	683,								// throttle high voltage (foot off pedal)
	8,									// throttle pedal position gain
	0,									// throttle pwm (voltage) gain
	6,									// current ramp rate (from throttle)
};

unsigned char counter_16k = 0;
unsigned char counter_8k = 0;
unsigned char counter_4k = 0;
unsigned char ad_channel = 0;
unsigned char oc_cycles_off_counter = 0;
unsigned char in_pi_loop = 0;
volatile unsigned char pi_run_tm = 0;

volatile unsigned counter_1k = 0;		// 1KHz (976Hz to be exact) counter for timing

volatile unsigned raw_current_fb;		// AD channel 2
volatile unsigned raw_hs_temp;			// AD channel 1
volatile unsigned raw_throttle;			// AD channel 0

unsigned vref = 0;						// zero current voltage for LEM current sensor
unsigned ocr1a_lpf = 0;					// ocr1a run through lowpass filter (sort of averaged)
unsigned max_current_ref = MAX_CURRENT_REF;	// max_current_ref in variable so controlled by temperature
int throttle_ref = 0;					// reference (desired) throttle
int current_ref = 0;					// reference (desired) current
int current_fb = 0;						// current feedback (actual current)

unsigned long idle_loopcount;			// how many loops we do while micro is not executing PI

pi_storage_type pi;
config_type config;
realtime_data_type rt_data;

#ifdef crc_address
// calc CRC for program (firmware)
unsigned int calc_prog_crc(unsigned nbytes)
{
	unsigned n, crc;
	
	crc = 0xffff;
	for (n = PROGSTART; n &lt; nbytes; n++) {
		crc = _crc_ccitt_update (crc, pgm_read_byte(n));
	}
	return(crc);
}
#endif

// calc CRC on block in SRAM
unsigned int calc_block_crc(unsigned nbytes, unsigned char *buf)
{
	unsigned n, crc;
	
	crc = 0xffff;
	for (n = 0; n &lt; nbytes; n++) {
		crc = _crc_ccitt_update (crc, *(buf + n));
	}
	return(crc);
}

inline void clear_oc(void)
{
	PORTB &amp;= ~PB_OC_CLEAR;				// OC clear low (low to clear)
	asm("nop"); asm("nop");				// 4 nops = 1/4th uS - enough for 74HC00
	asm("nop"); asm("nop"); 
	PORTB |= PB_OC_CLEAR;				// OC clear high (high for normal operation)
}

inline unsigned get_time(void)
{
	unsigned t;
	
	cli(); t = counter_1k; sei();
	return(t);
}

inline unsigned diff_time(unsigned before)
{
	unsigned now;
	
	cli(); now = counter_1k; sei();
	return(now - before);
	
}

unsigned long wait_time(unsigned howlong)
{
	unsigned begin;
	unsigned long loopcount;
		
	loopcount = 0;
	begin = get_time();
	while (diff_time(begin) &lt; howlong) loopcount++;
	return(loopcount);
}

// PI loop code - runs at 4Khz
void pi_loop(void)
{
	static unsigned char throttle_counter = 0;
	unsigned char entry_tm, exec_tm;
	unsigned loc_current_fb, loc_throttle;
	unsigned uv1, uv2;
	int i;
	
	entry_tm = counter_16k;
	loc_current_fb = raw_current_fb;
	loc_throttle = raw_throttle;
	sei();
	// now we have a snapshot of all ADC readings and interrupts are enabled
	// the timer 1 overflow ISR should re-enter on itself if it needs to
	// we also have a snapshot of the entry time (16KHz counter) so we can measure execution time
	
	// convert loc_current_fb from raw value to scaled (0 to 511)
	// current starts in [512, 512 + 213]  (if it's in 0 to 500 amps for the LEM 300)
	if (loc_current_fb &lt; vref) loc_current_fb = 0;
	else loc_current_fb -= vref;
	// now current is in the range [0, 213] or so
	current_fb = (loc_current_fb * 19) &gt;&gt; 3;			// (19/8 is almost 2.4)
	// now current is in [0, 506] or so, close to same as current reference range
	pi.error_new = current_ref - current_fb;
	// execute PI loop
	// first, K1 = Kp &lt;&lt; 10;
	// second, K2 = Ki - K1;
	if (current_ref == 0) {
		pi.pwm = 0;
		//pi.Kp = 0;
		//pi.Ki = 0;

		// if Kp and Ki = 0, then K1 and K2 = 0;
		// if K1 and K2 = 0, then pwm = pwm + 0, and 0 + 0 = 0
		// so we don't need to run the PI loop, just set error_old to error_new
	}
	else {
		pi.pwm += (pi.K1 * pi.error_new) + (pi.K2 * pi.error_old);
	}
	pi.error_old = pi.error_new;
	if (pi.pwm &gt; (510L &lt;&lt; 16)) pi.pwm = (510L &lt;&lt; 16);
	else if (pi.pwm &lt; 0L) pi.pwm = 0L;
	if (pi.pwm &amp; 0x8000) OCR1A = (pi.pwm &gt;&gt; 16) + 1;
	else OCR1A = (pi.pwm &gt;&gt; 16);

	// calculate average OCR1A value
	// OCR1A max value is 511, so we can multiply it by up to 127 times
	ocr1a_lpf = ((ocr1a_lpf * 15) + (unsigned)OCR1A) &gt;&gt; 4;

	throttle_counter++;
	if ((throttle_counter &amp; 0x03) == 0x00) {
		// run throttle logic at 1KHz - calculate throttle_ref

		if (loc_throttle &gt; config.throttle_max_raw_counts)
			loc_throttle = config.throttle_max_raw_counts;
		else if (loc_throttle &lt; config.throttle_min_raw_counts)
			loc_throttle = config.throttle_min_raw_counts;
		
		loc_throttle -= config.throttle_min_raw_counts;
		// now loc_throttle is in [0, (throttle_max_raw_counts - throttle_min_raw_counts)]
		loc_throttle = (config.throttle_max_raw_counts - config.throttle_min_raw_counts) -
			loc_throttle;
		/*
		now, 0 throttle is 0,
		and max throttle is (throttle_max_raw_counts - throttle_min_raw_counts)
		*/
		throttle_ref = (long)loc_throttle * (long)MAX_CURRENT_REF /
			(long)(config.throttle_max_raw_counts - config.throttle_min_raw_counts);
		// now throttle ref in [0 to 511]
	}
	else if ((throttle_counter &amp; 0x03) == 0x01) {
		// run throttle logic at 1KHz - calculate current_ref from throttle_ref

		// throttle gain logic
		uv1 = (throttle_ref * config.throttle_pos_gain) &gt;&gt; 8;
		uv2 = (throttle_ref * config.throttle_pwm_gain) &gt;&gt; 8;
		if (uv1 &gt; uv2) loc_throttle = uv1 - uv2;
		else loc_throttle = 0;
		
		// current_ref ramp rate logic
		if (loc_throttle &gt; max_current_ref) i = (max_current_ref - current_ref);
		else i = (int)loc_throttle - current_ref;
		if (i &gt; config.current_ramp_rate) i = config.current_ramp_rate;
		else if (i &lt; -config.current_ramp_rate) i = -config.current_ramp_rate;
		current_ref += i;
	}
	// measure how long execution took
	exec_tm = counter_16k - entry_tm;
	if (exec_tm &gt; pi_run_tm) pi_run_tm = exec_tm;
}

// TIMER1 overflow interrupt
// This occurs center aligned with PWM output - best time to sample current sensor
// Rate is 16KHz
ISR(TIMER1_OVF_vect)
{
	unsigned ui;
	
	counter_16k++;
	if (counter_16k &amp; 0x01) {
		// every other time (8KHz)
		counter_8k++;
		if (counter_8k &amp; 0x01) {
			// conversion on throttle or heatsink done - grab result
			ui = ADC;
			ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 &lt;&lt; REFS0) | 2;			// start conversion on current fb chan
			ADCSRA = (1 &lt;&lt; ADEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS2) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS1) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS0) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADSC);
			if (ad_channel == 0) raw_throttle = ui;
			else if (ad_channel == 1) raw_hs_temp = ui;
			counter_4k++;
			if ((counter_4k &amp; 0x03) == 0) counter_1k++;	// 1 KHz counter for delays, etc.
			// overcurrent trip logic
			if (PINB &amp; PINB_OC_STATE) {
				// overcurrent circuit tripped
				oc_cycles_off_counter++;
			}
			if (oc_cycles_off_counter &gt;= NUM_OC_CYCLES_OFF) {
				// time to reset overcurrent trip circuit
				oc_cycles_off_counter = 0;
				#ifdef OC_CLEAR_ENABLED
				clear_oc();
				#endif
			}
		}
		else {
			// convertion on current sensor reading complete (4KHz)
			raw_current_fb = ADC;						// get conversion result
			ad_channel++;								// next channel channel
			if (ad_channel &gt; 1) ad_channel = 0;			// wrap around logic
			ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 &lt;&lt; REFS0) | ad_channel;	// set channel and start conversion
			ADCSRA = (1 &lt;&lt; ADEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS2) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS1) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS0) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADSC);
			// execute PI loop with re-entrancy check
			if (!in_pi_loop) {
				in_pi_loop = 1; pi_loop(); in_pi_loop = 0;
			}
		}
	}
}

// timer 1 input capture ISR (1000 hertz)
SIGNAL(SIG_INPUT_CAPTURE1)
{
	counter_1k++;							// 1 KHz counter for delays, etc.	
}

unsigned char measure_vref(void)
{
	unsigned char lp;
	unsigned sum;
	
	sum = 0;
	for (lp = 0; lp &lt; 16; lp++) {
		// do a conversion on channel 2 - current sensor
		ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 &lt;&lt; REFS0) | 2;
		ADCSRA = (1 &lt;&lt; ADEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS2) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS1) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS0) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADSC);
		while (ADCSRA &amp; (1 &lt;&lt; ADSC));
		sum += ADC;
	}
	vref = sum &gt;&gt; 4;
	if ((vref &gt; (512 + 50)) || (vref &lt; (512 - 50))) return(0);
	return(1);
}

void config_pi(void)
{
/* A couple of points:
	We are now doing OCR1A = (pwm &gt;&gt; 16) instead of (pwm &gt;&gt; 15)
	Because of this, both Kp and Ki must double for same loop response
	Also, the PI loop is run at 4KHz instead of 16, so Ki must quadruple for same loop response
	So for same loop response, Kp is 2X and Ki is 8X */
	
	long v1, v2;
	
	v1 = (long)config.Kp &lt;&lt; 10;
	v2 = (long)config.Ki - pi.K1;
	cli(); pi.K1 = v1; pi.K2 = v2; sei();
}

void fetch_rt_data(void)
{
	// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)
	cli(); rt_data.throttle_ref = (volatile int)throttle_ref; sei();
	asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");

	// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)
	cli(); rt_data.current_ref = (volatile int)current_ref; sei();
	asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");

	// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)
	cli(); rt_data.current_fb = (volatile int)current_fb; sei();
	asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");

	// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)
	cli(); rt_data.raw_hs_temp = (volatile unsigned)raw_hs_temp; sei();
	asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");
	
	// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)
	cli(); rt_data.raw_throttle = (volatile unsigned)raw_throttle; sei();
	asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");
}

void read_config(void)
{
	eeprom_read_block(&amp;config, (void *)EE_CONFIG_ADDRESS, sizeof(config));
	if (config.magic == 0x12ab) {
		// magic OK
		if (calc_block_crc(sizeof(config) - sizeof(unsigned), (unsigned char *)&amp;config) ==
		  config.crc) {
		  	// CRC ok
			return;
		}
	}
	memcpy_P(&amp;config, &amp;default_config, sizeof(config));
}

void write_config(void)
{
	config.crc = calc_block_crc(sizeof(config) - sizeof(unsigned), (unsigned char *)&amp;config);
	eeprom_write_block(&amp;config, (void *)EE_CONFIG_ADDRESS, sizeof(config));
}

void show_menu(char *str)
{
	sprintf_P(str, PSTR("Cougar OS controller firmware v%d.%d\r\n"),
		MAJOR_VERSION, MINOR_VERSION);
	uart_putstr(str);
}

void show_config(char *str)
{
	sprintf_P(str, PSTR("Kp=%d Ki=%d\r\n"), config.Kp, config.Ki);
	uart_putstr(str);
	sprintf_P(str, PSTR("throttle_min_raw_counts=%u throttle_max_raw_counts=%u\r\n"),
		config.throttle_min_raw_counts, config.throttle_max_raw_counts);
	uart_putstr(str);
	sprintf_P(str, PSTR("throttle_pos_gain=%u throttle_pwm_gain=%u\r\n"),
		config.throttle_pos_gain, config.throttle_pos_gain);
	uart_putstr(str);
	sprintf_P(str, PSTR("current_ramp_rate=%d\r\n"), config.current_ramp_rate);
	uart_putstr(str);
}

int main(void)
{
	int x;
	unsigned tm_show_data;
	unsigned char cmdpos, cmdok;
	char cmd[32];
	char str[80];
	
#ifdef crc_address
	unsigned crc1, crc2;
	
	crc1 = pgm_read_word(crc_address);		// read program CRC
	crc2 = calc_prog_crc(crc_address);		// read program CRC
	if (crc1 != crc2) {
		// program CRC error
		while(1);							// do nothing for ever
	}
#endif

	wdt_enable(WDTO_250MS);					// enable watchdog
	
	PORTD = 0xff &amp; ~PD_LED &amp; ~PD_CONTACTOR;	// PORTD weak pullups, LED output pins low (LEDs off)
	DDRD = PD_LED &amp; PD_CONTACTOR;			// two pins outputs
	PORTC = ~PC_ANALOGS_USED;				// weaks pull ups on _except_ for analog input pins
	PORTB = 0xff &amp; ~PB_PWM;					// PWM output low, other outputs high, weak pullups on
	DDRB = PB_PWM | PB_OC_CLEAR;			// two pins outputs
	
	// External Vcc (5v) for analog reference
	ADMUX = (1 &lt;&lt; REFS0);
	// enable ADC, prescale = 128, so conversion clock is 16M / 128 = 125KHz
	// a conversion take 13 cycles, at 125KHz equals 104uS
	// the fastest we can convert is 9.6 KHz
	// if we convert every other PWM cycle, that is 8KHz
	// see page 198 of ATMEG8 manual
	ADCSRA = (1 &lt;&lt; ADEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS2) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS1) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS0);
	// do a conversion on channel 2 - the first conversion takes 25 cycles - so do it now
	ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 &lt;&lt; REFS0) | 2;
	ADCSRA = (1 &lt;&lt; ADEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS2) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS1) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADPS0) | (1 &lt;&lt; ADSC);
	while (ADCSRA &amp; (1 &lt;&lt; ADSC));
	
	// set up input capture 1 interrupt at 976Hz
	// this is only for temporary timing until timer 1 is used for PWM
	// the reason for 976Hz instead of 1000Hz is explained below
	TCNT1 = 0;								// load 16 bit counter 1
	ICR1 = (long)F_OSC / 976;				// timer at 976 Hz
	TCCR1A = 0;								// no output action on match
	// let counter 1 run at fosc, reset to 0 at ICR1
	TCCR1B = (1 &lt;&lt; WGM13) | (1 &lt;&lt; WGM12) | (1 &lt;&lt; CS10);
	TIMSK = (1 &lt;&lt; TICIE1);					// enable input capture 1 interrupt
	
	read_config();							// read config from EEprom
	config_pi();							// configure PI loop from config structure
	// interrups are now enabled by config_pi() - sei() instruction in config_pi()

	idle_loopcount = wait_time(100);		// wait 100mS and remember how many loops we did
	wdt_reset();							// kick watchdog
	// now that voltages have settled, measure Vref
	if (!measure_vref()) {
		// vref out of range
		while(1) {
			wdt_reset();					// kick watchdog
		}
	}
	// clear overcurrent fault (powerup in unknown state)
	clear_oc();
		
	// now configure timer 1 for PWM
	TIMSK = 0;								// no timer 1 interrupt
	TCCR1B = 0;								// stop counter 1
	TCNT1 = 0;								// load 16 bit counter 1
    OCR1A = 0;								// set initial PWM duty value to 0
	TCCR1A =  (1 &lt;&lt; COM1A1) | (1 &lt;&lt; WGM11);	// Pase Correct PWM mode, 9 bit
	TCCR1B = (1 &lt;&lt; CS10);					// Pre-scaler = 1
    OCR1A = 0;								// again, just to be safe
	TIMSK = (1 &lt;&lt; TOIE1);					// enable overflow 1 interrupt
	// now the PWM frequency = 16000000 / (1 &lt;&lt; 9) / 2
	// so PWM frequency = 16000000 / 1024 = 15625Hz
	// now, counter_1k is incremented every 16 interrupt, so 15625 / 16 = 976.5625Hz
	// this is why we run SIG_INPUT_CAPTURE1 at 976Hz
	
	setup_uart(19200, PARITY_NONE, BITS_8_1);		// uart 19200,n,8,1
	show_menu(str);									// might as well
	// init some time variables
	tm_show_data = get_time();
	// now listen on serial port for commands
	memset(cmd, 0, sizeof(cmd)); cmdpos = 0;
	while (1) {
		wdt_reset();
		x = uart_getch();
		if (x &gt;= 0) {
			if (x != 0x0d) {
				// not a CR
				uart_putch(x);							// echo the character back
				if (cmdpos &lt; (sizeof(cmd) - 1)) {
					cmd[cmdpos++] = x;					// add character to command string
					cmd[cmdpos] = 0;					// and terminate command string
				}
			}
			else {
				// got a CR
				uart_putch(0x0a); uart_putch(0x0d);		// echo back LF and CR
				cmdok = 0;
				if (cmdpos &gt; 0) {
					for (x = 0; x &lt; (int)(cmdpos - 1); x++) {
						if (cmd[x] == ' ') {
							// have a space character, terminate at this position
							// and get numeric value
							cmd[x] = 0; x = atoi(&amp;cmd[x + 1]); cmdok = 1;
						}
					}
				}
				if (cmdok) {
					// cmd is string, x is numeric value
					if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("save"))) {
						write_config();
						sprintf_P(str, PSTR("configuration written to EE\r\n"));
						uart_putstr(str);
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("idle"))) {
						sprintf_P(str, PSTR("AVR %lu%% idle\r\n"),
							wait_time(100) * (long)100 / idle_loopcount);
						uart_putstr(str);
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("kp"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 500) {
							config.Kp = x; config_pi();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("ki"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 500) {
							config.Ki = x; config_pi();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-min-rc"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 1023) {
							cli(); config.throttle_min_raw_counts = x; sei();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-max-rc"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 1023) {
							cli(); config.throttle_max_raw_counts = x; sei();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-pos-gain"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 128) {
							cli(); config.throttle_pos_gain = x; sei();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-pwm-gain"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 128) {
							cli(); config.throttle_pwm_gain = x; sei();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
					else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("c-rr"))) {
						if ((unsigned)x &lt;= 100) {
							cli(); config.current_ramp_rate = x; sei();
							show_config(str);
						}
					}
				}
				else show_menu(str);
				// reset command string
				cmdpos = 0; cmd[0] = 0;
			}
		}
		/* add non time-critical code below */
		fetch_rt_data();
		if (diff_time(tm_show_data) &gt;= 200) {
			// 200mS passed since last time, adjust tm_show_data to trigger in 200mS again
			tm_show_data += 200;
			sprintf_P(str, PSTR("TR=%03d CR=%03d CF=%03d HS=%04u RT=%04u\r\n"),
				rt_data.throttle_ref, rt_data.current_ref, rt_data.current_fb,
				rt_data.raw_hs_temp, rt_data.raw_throttle);
			uart_putstr(str);
		}
	}
	return(0);
}

&lt;/pre&gt;

== Cougar.h ==

&lt;pre&gt;
#define MAJOR_VERSION 0
#define MINOR_VERSION 1

#define F_OSC 16000000					// oscillator-frequency in Hz

#define PROGSTART 0x0000				// program start address

#define EE_CONFIG_ADDRESS 0				// address of config in EEprom

#define OC_CLEAR_ENABLED				// defin to enable AVR to clear OC fault

#define NUM_OC_CYCLES_OFF 4				// number of overcurrent cycles off (at 4KHz)

#define MAX_CURRENT_REF 511				// max current ref into PI loop

#define PINB_OC_STATE (1 &lt;&lt; PINB0)		// OC state (high means fault)
#define PB_PWM (1 &lt;&lt; PB1)				// PWM output pin (high to turn FETs on)
#define PB_OC_CLEAR (1 &lt;&lt; PB2)			// OC clear (low to clear, high for normal operation)

#define PD_LED (1 &lt;&lt; PD6)				// IDLE LED - high to light LED
#define PD_CONTACTOR (1 &lt;&lt; PD7)			// Contactor Opto LED - high to light LED

// three analog inputs used, these pins must be inputs and weak pullups off
#define PC_ANALOGS_USED ((1 &lt;&lt; PC0) | (1 &lt;&lt; PC1) | (1 &lt;&lt; PC2))

#define PARITY_NONE	0x00
#define PARITY_EVEN	0x02
#define PARITY_ODD	0x03

#define BITS_7_1	0x02
#define BITS_7_2	0x06
#define BITS_8_1	0x03
#define BITS_8_2	0x07

#define UART_RXBUF_SIZE 16
#define UART_TXBUF_SIZE 128

// function prototypes

// get character from uart fifo, return -1 if fifo empty
int uart_getch(void);

// put character to uart (return 1 if fifo full, else 0)
unsigned char uart_putch(char c);

// put string to uart
void uart_putstr(char *str);

// set up UART to specified baud, parity, and bits
void setup_uart(unsigned long baud, unsigned char parity, unsigned char bits);

&lt;/pre&gt;


== Serial.c ==

&lt;pre&gt;
/*
serial port support for cougar.c
*/

#include &lt;avr/io.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/interrupt.h&gt;
#include &lt;avr/iom8.h&gt;
#include &lt;stdio.h&gt;
#include &lt;stdlib.h&gt;
#include &lt;string.h&gt;

#include "cougar.h"

// UART (serial)
typedef struct {
	unsigned char rxbuf[UART_RXBUF_SIZE];
	unsigned char txbuf[UART_TXBUF_SIZE];
	unsigned rxhead;
	unsigned rxtail;
	unsigned txhead;
	unsigned txtail;
} uart_fifo_type;

uart_fifo_type uart;

/* uart receive interrupt */
SIGNAL(SIG_UART_RECV)
{
	unsigned char c;
	unsigned i;
	
	c = UDR;
	i = uart.rxhead + 1;
	if (i &gt;= UART_RXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;
	if (i != uart.rxtail) {
		// fifo not full
		uart.rxbuf[uart.rxhead] = c;
		uart.rxhead = i;
	}
}

/* uart UDR empty interrupt */
SIGNAL(SIG_UART_DATA)
{
	unsigned i;
	
	i = uart.txtail;
	if (i != uart.txhead) {
		UDR = uart.txbuf[i++];
		if (i &gt;= UART_TXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;
		uart.txtail = i;
	}
	else {
		// disable TX buffer empty interrupt
		UCSRB = (1 &lt;&lt; RXEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; TXEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; RXCIE);
	}
}

// get character from uart fifo, return -1 if fifo empty
int uart_getch(void)
{
	unsigned char c;
	unsigned i, j;
	
	i = uart.rxtail;
	cli(); j = uart.rxhead; sei();
	if (i != j) {
		c = uart.rxbuf[i++];
		if (i &gt;= UART_RXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;
		cli(); uart.rxtail = i; sei();
		return(c);
	}
	return(-1);
}

// put character to uart (return 1 if fifo full, else 0)
unsigned char uart_putch(char c)
{
	unsigned i, j;
	
	i = uart.txhead + 1;
	if (i &gt;= UART_TXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;
	cli(); j = uart.txtail; sei();
	if (i == j) {
		// fifo full
		return(1);
	}
	uart.txbuf[uart.txhead] = c;
	cli(); uart.txhead = i; sei();
	// enable TX buffer empty interrupt
	UCSRB = (1 &lt;&lt; RXEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; TXEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; RXCIE) | (1 &lt;&lt; UDRIE);
	return(0);
}

// put string to uart
void uart_putstr(char *str)
{
	char ch;
	
	while (1) {
		ch = *str++;
		if (ch == 0) break;
		while (uart_putch(ch));
	}
}

// set up UART to specified baud, parity, and bits
void setup_uart(unsigned long baud, unsigned char parity, unsigned char bits)
{
	unsigned int ubrr;

	ubrr = (F_OSC / ((unsigned long)16 * baud)) - 1;
	UBRRL = ubrr &amp; 0xff;
	UBRRH = ubrr &gt;&gt; 8;
	UCSRC = (parity &lt;&lt; 4) | (bits &lt;&lt; 1) | (1 &lt;&lt; URSEL);
	UCSRB = (1 &lt;&lt; RXEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; TXEN) | (1 &lt;&lt; RXCIE);
}

&lt;/pre&gt;
--[[User:Adamj12b|Adamj12b]] 19:30, 5 October 2009 (EDT)


== Serial Command List ==

Serial Hardware is NOT RS232, it is FTDI 5v logic serial. Beware!

'''Commands:''' 

Format - 

&lt;Command&gt;&lt;" "&gt;&lt;INTEGER&gt;

&lt;SAVE&gt;

'''Example:'''

pctime 50

save

saves a new precharge time of 5 seconds

----

''save'' - Save setting

''idle'' - ? Idle controller

''restart'' - restart controller

''reset-ah'' - reset Amp hours

''pc-time'' - Precharge contactor/relay time

''kp'' - PI loop proportional gain

''ki'' - PI loop integreal gain

''t-min-rc'' - config.throttle_min_raw_counts - throttle low voltage (pedal to metal)

''t-max-rc'' - config.throttle_max_raw_counts - throttle high voltage (foot off pedal)

''t-pos-gain'' - config.throttle_pos_gain - gain for actual throttle position

''t-pwm-gain'' - config.throttle_pwm_gain - gain for pwm (voltage)

''c-rr'' - config.current_ramp_rate - current ramp rate

''rtd-period'' - Period between output of controller data to the serial port

''pwm-filter'' - ?

''motor-os-dt'' - Motor Overspeed detect time

''pwm-deadzone'' - ?

''motor-sc-amps''


----

'''DATA:'''

If you set rtd-period # to a value in ms, this will be how often the controller spits out the data string with the real time parameters.

The break down is as follows:


TR = Controllers calculated throttle position. 0-511

CR = Controllers current reference based on throttle and other factors. 0-511

CF = Current feedback from LEM current sensor 0-511

PW = PWM duty cycle of controller 0-511

HS = Heat-sink Temp in raw ADC counts 0-1023

RT = Raw Throttle counts from the ADC 0-1023

FB = Fault Bits. Hex output with each fault and status code. Normal 00

BA = Calculated Battery amps 0-511

AH = Calculated Amp Hours consumed 0-999.9


Here is an example string:

TR=000 CR=000 CF=002 PW=000 HS=0315 RT=0716 FB=00 BA=000 AH=000.0


This shows:


TR=000 No throttle

CR=000 Controller is not commanding any current

CF=002 Current sensor reading of 002, it will fluctuate a few counts in increments of 002

PW=000 No pwm output

HS=0315 heatsink temp of 315 is about 76 ish F. 

RT=0716 The throttle all the way up value

FB=00 No fault codes. this will change on HPL, pre-charge, overspeed, overtemp, and no throttle or current sensor

BA=000 no battery current

AH=000.0 no AH consumed because you havnt used any power yet. lol

Link to Adam Brunettes [http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html] page with his software - RTD explorer that graphs this all automatically for you.</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/FAQ</title>
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  <revision>
    <id>123</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:06:16Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  The '''[[Open ReVolt]]''' EV controller inspires a lot of questions. Here's the answers to the most popular ones.  __TOC__   == What ''is'' an EV contr..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="6832" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

The '''[[Open ReVolt]]''' EV controller inspires a lot of questions. Here's the answers to the most popular ones.

__TOC__


== What ''is'' an EV controller? ==

The three main parts to an electric vehicle drivetrain are the batteries, motor, and the controller. The controller acts like a valve, regulating the amount of electricity that goes from the batteries to the motor. It does this mainly in response to the pedal position, but it can also depend on vehicle speed, component temperatures, and battery charge.

== What is the Open ReVolt project? ==

Spearheaded by ecomodder.com user MPaulHolmes, Open ReVolt is a project to make a '''do-it-yourself, open source''' EV controller. Since they aren't mass-produced yet, the controller is often the most expensive single component for homebuilt EVs. Since they're so specialized, most people can't simply scavenge controllers like they can motors, batteries, and gliders (aka vehicle bodies).

== How does an EV controller work? ==

The simplest EV controller would just be a switch. Turn it on and the car goes, turn it off and it coasts. This isn't very practical for automobiles, but some toy cars use this system.

Conceptually automotive controllers are almost as simple – they just turn the switch on and off really fast using electronic switches; typically power semiconductors called ''MOSFETs''. By varying how long they're on versus off, the speed of the motor can be turned up and down (a technique called ''pulse width modulation'' or PWM). Other techniques of varying the speed and power of electric motors exist, but have fallen from favor with today's technology. 

Of course, nitpicky details creep in. The jerky voltage of PWM can be smoothed out by putting large capacitors after the switches. The current induced by the motor windings can flow around the MOSFETs without burning them up by adding diodes to the circuit.  A MOSFET that's only partway on creates a lot of heat, so the switching needs to happen as fast as possible. Diodes create even more heat, so they're sometimes replaced with another set of MOSFETs in a trick known as '''synchronous rectification'''. The MOSFETs need to turn on simultaneously so the early bird doesn't get fried. EMI can screw with the control board. Etc…

== I'm tech savvy. How does an EV controller work? ==

Oh, sorry about that. An EV controller uses a feedback loop to regulate the current going to the motor by adjusting the voltage. To avoid oscillations, a PI controller (or sometimes weighted averages)&lt;!-- someone care to elaborate on the current system? I can't keep track --&gt; is used. Most feature thermal cutoffs and hardware current limiters, but some have watchdog timers, high-pedal lockouts, polarity reversal protection, MOSFET short protection, RS-232, motor speed sensors, vehicle speed sensors, traction battery monitors, and even integrated charge controllers. See Open ReVolt's [[Current Features]].

== EVs are battery powered ...so what's with the AC controller? ==

Until 2011 or so most DIY EVs used DC motors for various reasons, but mostly because of the complexity of the controllers.  The great debate about Edison's DC versus Tesla and Westinghouses AC may never end, because of their differences.  Presently the advantages of an AC "squirrel cage induction motor" over certain characteristics of DC motors seem to outweigh the controller complexity issue.  With today's electronics technology, and availability of semiconductor devices, AC controllers are efficient, affordable and robust enough to be used. This improves our options as we make the engineering decisions which will give us the vehicle most suitable for our own applications.

== What's so great about the Open ReVolt? ==

Several things, it's '''open''', '''modular''', '''inexpensive''', and '''free'''. No, that's not a typo.


As the name would imply, Open ReVolt is '''open''', which means its development happens online for everyone to see. Want to know what a certain part does and why? It's all in the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html design thread]. This way many, many people with different backgrounds are watching for mistakes and problems, but also opportunities for improvement. ''This includes you!''


The Open ReVolt is designed to be as '''modular''' as possible. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Control board|control board]]'' houses all the low-voltage electronics like microcontrollers and data and throttle cables. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Power board|power board]]'' contains the MOSFETs, capacitors, and diodes, as well as the bus bars which connect to the motor and batteries. To protect the control board, it is connected to the power board with an optoisolator. The control board uses its own separate battery for power

Since the two boards are modular, you can size the power board for your vehicle without affecting the control board. An electric bike and an electric lorry could use the same control board (simply by attaching it to a higher-current power board). The power board can accept any battery voltage from 0 to 144 V.


A big driver in the design process is to make the finished controller '''inexpensive'''. This means being smart with what components are called for, group buying to drive down cost, and taking advantage of generously donated parts, time, and resources.


Sadly we can't give away the actual electronic parts, but the schematics, software, and blueprints are all 100% '''free'''. MPaulHolmes can't break down your door for copying the Open ReVolt design, because you already own it! (strictly speaking everyone does) This is a big deal for EV controllers, since recouping development costs is a big part of why small-volume products like them are so expensive.

== Sounds cool. Where do I start? ==

If you're just looking to build a controller, you can start with the Bill of Materials for either the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board control board] or the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board power board] (you'll need both to have a working controller).

If you're looking to help out/contribute to the advance of the project, there are several ways to dive in. Editing this wiki is one. You can offer anything else [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html on the design thread]. Things that have been offered include:

*beta testing time (use one of these controllers in their already-running EV)
*machine shop time (to make parts for the controllers)
*business discounts (when placing orders for components specifically related to making an Open ReVolt controller)
*components (to be used to build test systems)
*financial donations (to buy parts)
*encouragement (Thanks to all!)</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/Current Features</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:06:37Z</timestamp>
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      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  :Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v. :15.6 kHz switching frequency. :Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown in the range 495 amps to 776 amp..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="720" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

:Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v.
:15.6 kHz switching frequency.
:Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown in the range 495 amps to 776 amps.
:Hardware over-current shuts down in 3-4 µs. [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-161.html]
:RS-232 interface.
:Reprogrammable.
:High pedal lockout.
:The controller will not close the main contactor if the mosfets have failed shorted.
:Protection from many potentially destructive errors: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-158.html]
::Control board power polarity reversed
::12V supply connected to throttle
::Full throttle at 0 RPM</text>
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  <title>X-Gauge Commands Repertory</title>
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    <id>125</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:06:57Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  :Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v. :15.6 kHz switching frequency. :Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown in the range 495 amps to 776 amp..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="720" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

:Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v.
:15.6 kHz switching frequency.
:Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown in the range 495 amps to 776 amps.
:Hardware over-current shuts down in 3-4 µs. [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-161.html]
:RS-232 interface.
:Reprogrammable.
:High pedal lockout.
:The controller will not close the main contactor if the mosfets have failed shorted.
:Protection from many potentially destructive errors: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-158.html]
::Control board power polarity reversed
::12V supply connected to throttle
::Full throttle at 0 RPM</text>
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    <id>126</id>
    <parentid>125</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:07:26Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
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    <text bytes="13500" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]] | [[ScanGauge_OBD-II_computer|Return to ScanGauge OBD-II computer (and similar) ]]

[This page is under construction. Feel free to add data and X-Gauges.]

The X-Gauges commands are built-in the ScanGauge-II, ScanGauge-E and ScanGauge-D. They are 4 series of number (TXD, RXF, RXD &amp; MTH) which you can input directly from the SG user interface. 

To access the X-Gauges in your ScanGauge, first push on the principal button, then select More &gt; More &gt; Advanced Settings &gt; X-Gauges. You can create up to 25 X-Gauges.
They will be accessible like all your other normal gauges.

Because diffferent OBD-II protocol exists. Some X-Gauges might not work on your vehicule. That's why this repertory will categorize the different OBD-II protocol and other specifics.

[http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/ X-Gauge Commands]

== X-Gauges for ISO &amp; VPW Vehicles ==
X-Gauges such as O2 Sensor Voltages, Long and Short Fuel Trims, Air to Fuel Ratio’s, Fuel Level, and more can be found here for vehicles that use the ISO or VPW protocol.

Most Asian, European, and Chrysler manufactured vehicles used the ISO protocol from 1996 to 2002.  From 2003 to 2007 their vehicles will either support ISO or CAN.
 
GM Vehicles almost exclusively used the VPW protocol from 1996 to 2002.  From 2003 to 2007 GM vehicles will either support VPW or CAN.
 
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle.  If you try all available X-Gauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.

=== Horsepower ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Horsepower || 00 || 400080000000 || 0000 || 000A00170000 || HPR || Gasoline Gross/Brake
|-
| Horsepower || 00 || 400080000000 || 0000 || 000A00240000 || HPR || Diesel Gross/Brake
|-
|}

=== O2 Sensor Data ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 616AF10114 || 044105140000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O11 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 616AF10115 || 044105150000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O12 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 3 || 616AF10116 || 044105160000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O13 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 4 || 616AF10117 || 044105170000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O14 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 616AF10118 || 044105180000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O21 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 616AF10119 || 044105190000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O22 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 3 || 616AF1011A || 0441051A0000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O23 || 0 to 99%
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 4 || 616AF1011B || 0441051B0000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O24 || 0 to 99%
|-
|}

=== Short/Long Term Fuel Trim ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 || 616AF10106 || 044105060000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || SF1 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 || 616AF10108 || 044105080000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || SF2 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 || 616AF10106 || 044105060000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || SF3 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 || 616AF10108 || 044105080000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || SF4 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 || 616AF10107 || 044105070000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || LF1 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 || 616AF10109 || 044105090000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || LF2 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 || 616AF10107 || 044105070000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || LF3 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 || 616AF10109 || 044105090000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || LF4 || +/- 0 to 99
|-
|}

=== Air to Fuel Ratio ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10124 || 044145240000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 616AF10125 || 044145250000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 3 || 686AF10126 || 044145260000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 4 || 686AF10127 || 044145270000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10128 || 044145280000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF10129 || 044145290000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 3 || 686AF1012A || 0441452A0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 4 || 686AF1012B || 0441452B0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
|}

=== Alt Air to Fuel Ratio ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10134 || 044145340000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 686AF10135 || 044145350000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 3 || 686AF10136 || 044145360000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 4 || 686AF10137 || 044145370000  || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10138 || 044145380000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF10139 || 044145390000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
|  Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 3 || 686AF1013A || 0441453A0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
|  Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 4 || 686AF1013B || 0441453B0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
|  Alt A/F Ratio Bank General || 686AF10144 || 044145440000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel
|-
|}

=== Engine Run Time ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Engine Run Time || 686AF1011F || 0441051F0000 || 2810 || 000100010000 || ERT || Seconds
|-
| Engine Run Time || 686AF1011F || 0441051F0000 || 2810 || 0001003C0000 || ERT || Minutes
|-
|}

=== Fuel Level ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Fuel Level || 686AF1012F || 0441052F0000 || 2808 || 006400FF0000 || FL% || Percent
|-
|}

=== Barometric Pressure ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Barometric Pressure || 686AF10133 || 044105330000 || 2808 || 006400450000 || PSI || Pounds Per Square Inch
|-
| Barometric Pressure || 686AF10133 || 044105330000 || 2808 || 000100010000 || KPA || Kilopascals
|-
|}

=== Catalyst Temperature ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013C || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013C || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013D || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013D || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013E || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit
|-
| Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013E || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013F || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit
|-
| Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013F || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius
|-
|}

=== Ambient Air Temperature ===
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes
|-
| Ambient Air Temperature (°F) || 686AF10146 || 044105460000 || 2808 || 00090005FFD8 || f°AT || Degrees Fahrenheit
|-
| Ambient Air Temperature (°C) || 686AF10146 || 044105460000 || 2808 || 000100010000 || c°AT || Degrees Celsius
|-
|}

== X-Gauges for PWM vehicles ==
O2 Sensor Data for PWM vehicles Fuel Trim for PWM vehilces Air to Fuel Ratio for PWM vehicles Engine Run Time for PWM vehicles Fuel Level for PWM vehicles Barometric Pressure for PWM vehicles Catalyst Temperature for PWM vehicles Ambient Air Temperature for PWM vehicles.

Ford vehicles from 1996 to 2002 almost exclusively used the PWM protocol.  From 2003 to 2007 Ford vehicles will either support PWM or CAN.

Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle.  If you try all available X-Gauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.

=== Horsepower ===

=== O2 Sensor Data ===

=== Fuel Trim for ===

=== Air to Fuel Ratio ===

=== Engine Run Time ===

=== Fuel Level ===

=== Barometric Pressure ===

=== Catalyst Temperature ===

=== Ambient Air Temperature ===

== X-Gauges for CANSF vehicles ==
X-Gauges such as O2 Sensor Voltages, Long and Short Fuel Trims, Air to Fuel Ratio’s, Fuel Level, and more can be found here for vehicles that use the CANSF protocol.

The CANSF protocol began being used in 2003 by a small number of vehicles.  From 2003 to 2008 the CANSF protocol became more prevalent.  Finally in 2008 all vehicles originally sold in the US or Canada were required to use the CANSF protocol.

Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle.  If you try all available XGauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.

== X-Gauges for KWP Vehicles ==
X-Gauges such as O2 Sensor Voltages, Long and Short Fuel Trims, Air to Fuel Ratio’s, Fuel Level, and more can be found here for vehicles that use the KWP Protocol.

Some Asian &amp; European market vehicles used the KWP protocol.

Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle.  If you try all available XGauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.

== Ford Specific X-Gauges ==
Ford Specific X-Gauges Codes. View parameters such as Transmission Fluid Temperature, Cylinder Head Temperature, Fuel Level, and more on your Ford. There are also model specific X-Gauges for the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 Powerstroke Diesels and the Ford Escape Hybrid.

Below is a the lists of Ford specific XGauge codes.  The first two tables depend on the protocol your Ford runs in.  All 2003 and older Ford vehicles will use the PWM protocol, however 2004 -2007 Fords may use PWM or CANSF.  All 2008 and newer Fords use CANSF.

Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle.  If you try all available XGauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.

== Toyota Specific X-Gauges==
Toyota Specific X-Gauge Codes. Specific codes for the Gen I, II, and III Prius.

== GM Specific X-Gauges==
GM Specific XGauge Codes. Monitor your Transmission Fluid Temperature, Air to Fuel Ratio, Engine Torque, and more with these X-Gauge codes.

Below are the GM Specific XGauge codes.  They are broken down between the two ECU protocols that GM used, so you’ll want to program these X-Gauges based on what protocol your GM vehicle uses.  All 2003 and older GM vehicles will use the VPW protocol.  All GM vehicles from 2004 to 2007 may use the VPW or CANSF protocol.  All 2008 and newer GM vehicles will use the CANSF protocol.

Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle.  If you try all available X-Gauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.
 
Note: Sometimes the value 01 needs to be added to the end of a TXD to get the X-Gauge to work.  This is why there is a (01) at the end of each of these X-Gauge’s TXD line.

== VW Specific X-Gauges ==
VW Specific X-Gauges Codes. These are XGauges for VW’s that use the ISO protocol.

Below are two X-Gauges for VW’s that use the ISO protocol.  The ISO protocol was used in VW’s from 1996 t0 2003.  In 2003 some VW’s switched to the CAN protocol, so there’s a slight chance from 2003 to 2008 your VW will not use the ISO protocol.  In 2008 ALL VW’s use the CAN protocol, so these codes will not apply to 2008 and newer VW’s.

== Dodge Specific X-Gauges ==
Dodge Specific X-Gauges Codes. This list is currently highly experimental, so we will list which vehicles we know the X-Gauge has worked in.  If your vehicle is not on that list there is a possibility that the X-Gauge will not work with your vehicle If you have a Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep vehicle that list there is a possibility that the XGauge will not work with your vehicle

== Mazda Specific X-Gauges ==
Mazda Specific X-Gauge Codes.  This list is currently highly experimental, so we will list which vehicles we know the X-Gauge has worked in.  If your vehicle is not on that list there is a possibility that the X-Gauge will not work with your vehicle If you have a

Mazda uses a variety of codes to report sensor values, so one parameter may have several different possible codes to try.  These codes are designed for Mazda vehicles that use the CAN Protocol. Some parameters may not be supported by your vehicle.</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Echo-Troll Ecomodding Project</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>125</id>
  <revision>
    <id>127</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:18:14Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]''' | '''[[Ecomodding projects|Return to the EcoModding Projects Page]] [[Image:Ecomodder.icon.jpg|right|thumb|1080px|frame|Echo-Troll]] =The..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="7054" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]''' | '''[[Ecomodding projects|Return to the EcoModding Projects Page]]
[[Image:Ecomodder.icon.jpg|right|thumb|1080px|frame|Echo-Troll]]
=The Car :=
{|cellspacing="0" Border=2 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, Year, Transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|Ex. Toyota Echo Sedan, 2005, Manual|| 30 MPG (US)  || 38 MPG (US) || 33 MPG (US) || 58 MPG (US) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Troll Modding Thread]
|-
|}

=EcoModding Project :=
'''Hi Hypermilers!'''

HyperMileQC and I are starting an aeromodding project on a '''Toyota Echo 2005 Manual 5 Speed 1.5 L''' : The Echo-Troll Project!

'''EPA :''' 30 City \ 38 HWY \ 33 Combined MPG (US)

'''My MPG's :''' 60 to 105 MPG in a 4.16 Miles commute \ 60 to 73.5 mpg on Highway

*'''[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Troll Modding Thread (2005 Toyota Echo)] | (Other Links)'''
==Echo-Troll Modification Project==
*'''The Ultimate Goal :'''
Our goal is to reach the 3.0 L/100Km (78.4 MPG) Score at 50 MPH and maybe 2.5 L/100Km (94.09 MPG) Ultimate goal. For now we haved reached 3.2 L/100Km (73.5 MPG).

*'''Car Stock Accessories :''' A/C, Mechanic Power Steering.

=Car Modifications List :=
==Instrumentation :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| ScanGauge-II || Really big improvement || 150$ CAN || 1 Hour || OBD-II instant mpg gauge.
|-
|}
==Aerodynamic Mods :==
===Aerodynamic Mods - Deletion :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| Passenger Side Mirror || Maybe 1%  || 5$ CAN || 2 hours || Removed the mirror and replaced by coroplast plate.
|-
|}
===Aerodynamic Mods - Fabrication :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| Smooth Wheel Covers || 2.15%  || 17$ CAN || 3 hours || Pizza pans nailed to the original cover.
|-
| Windshield Wiper Deflector || 1.50%  || 10$ CAN || 2 hours || Coroplast deflector to remove wiper from AF.
|-
| Grille Block || Maybe 1-2%  || 10$ CAN || 4 hours || Styrofoam covered with duct tape to block the grille opening.
|-
| Front and Rear Wheel Spats || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 35 Mins || Small coroplast deflector before the tire.
|-
| Complete Underbody Panelling (Belly Pan) || Maybe 2-4%  || 25$ CAN || 15 hours || Coroplast panels covering underside.
|-
| Sealed Gaps || below 0.5% || 5$ CAN || 40 Mins || Weatherstripping tape used to seal gaps around lights and doors.
|-
| Front and Rear Wheel Arch Mud Flaps || Below 0.5% || 0$ || 20 Mins || Coroplast nailed ans duct taped to prevent dirt accumulating in the belly pan.
|-
| Side Skirts || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 2 hours || Coroplast skirt to help AF to attach on the side of the car.
|-
| Rear Wheel Skirts || Maybe 2% || 10$ || 2 hours || Coroplast wheel skirt to help AF to from being deattached by the wheel arch.
|-
| Kammback Spoiler || Maybe 2-3% || 2$ || 30 Mins || Coroplast and Duct Tape Kammback to maintain attached flow at the rear.
|-
|}

==Drivetrain Mods :==
===Drivetrain Mods - Engine Mechanical :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| Warm Air Intake (WAI) || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 2 Mins || Only removed the intake tube.
|-
| Mobil 1 0w-30 Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy || Maybe 1% || 27$ || 30 Mins || Next oil change : Mobil 1 0w-30 Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy
|-
|}

===Drivetrain Mods - Engine Accessory :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| Power Steering Belt Remove || Maybe 1-2% || 0$ || 1 Min || Shlak, and it was done.
|-
| Air Conditioning Remove || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 2 Hours || Removed the A/C Radiator, hoses, compressor, and replaced the serpentine belt by a shorter one.
|-
| Mechanical Water Pump Remove || Maybe 2-4% || ~620$ || 5 days || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-13.html#post328930 Electric Water Pump and EWP &amp; Fan Digital Controller installation and testing]
|-
|}

===Drivetrain Mods - Transmission/Differential :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Electrical mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Disable || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 5 Mins || Destroyed the DRL switch.
|-
| LED Front Side Marker, Rear Side Marker, Blinkers, 1 of 2 Plate Light, Brake Lights, High-Mount and Roof Light. || 78 Watts Reduction || 50$ || 30 Minutes || LED Lights are superior.
|-
|}

==Wheel &amp; Tire Mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
| LRR Summer Tire up to 50 Psi (Front) and 50 Psi (Rear) || 2-3% || 0$ || 5 Mins || Michelin Defenders LRR Tires.
|-
|}

==Other Mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Unproven Mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}

= References =
== Forum thread links ==

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264300 Echo-Troll Modding Thread (2005 Toyota Echo)]

== External links ==
[http://www.ecomodder.com EcoModder.com]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Metro</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>126</id>
  <revision>
    <id>128</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:18:34Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "__TOC__   ==General Information== The Metro is a very fuel efficient vehicle with a long history. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Metro]  It is capable of exceeding the MPG..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="886" xml:space="preserve">__TOC__ 

==General Information==
The Metro is a very fuel efficient vehicle with a long history. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Metro]  It is capable of exceeding the MPG ratings of "todays" hybrids.

==[[MPGuino]]==
===Settings===
The following should be a good starting point:
&lt;ul&gt;
&lt;li&gt;VSS Pulses/Mile = 8208&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;MicroSec/Gallon = 0500000000&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Pulses/2 revs = 3&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;li&gt;Tank Gal * 1000 = 10300&lt;/li&gt;
&lt;/ul&gt;

===Installation===
&lt;gallery perrow="3"&gt;
Image:Metro1.JPG|Yellow Green wire for VSS (Speed) signal
Image:Metro2.JPG|Tapped into Yellow/blue wire at fuel injector
Image:Metro3.JPG|Small [[MPGuino]] sitting in front of Metro instrument cluster
&lt;/gallery&gt;


In the 1994 Geo Metro, the ECM is actually on the driver side to the left of the steering column (under the dash).  It is very difficult to get at, but the correct wire is still the Yellow with Green stripe.</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Weather Spotters wheel cover how to</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>127</id>
  <revision>
    <id>129</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:18:54Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Smooth_wheel_covers Back to wheel covers]]  How to:  Examine your existing wheels looking for mount points: [[Image:Rim pre cover .jpg]]..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2322" xml:space="preserve">[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Smooth_wheel_covers Back to wheel covers]]

How to:

Examine your existing wheels looking for mount points:
[[Image:Rim pre cover .jpg]]

Buy pizza pans to fit (mine were 16" but 17" would have been better), Walmart had these [http://www.diamondlinks.net link building] for $3 each: 
[[Image:New pizza pans.jpg]]

Locate a good spot for drilling and taping bolt holes: (in my case it was the ridge in the middle of the rim):
[[Image:First hole.jpg]]

Drill and tap 3 holes spaced 120 degrees apart (measure with protractor). I made the holes in the pizza pans first then used that as a template for the rims. I messed up the first set of holes (they were in 1/2" to far):

[[Image:Holes in pizza pan.jpg]]

[[Image:Tap holes.jpg]]

Attach using galvanized bolts to that mach you tap (mine was 5/16 x18 and 1" long (.5 would have worked)):

[[Image:Bolted on.jpg]]

Drivers side:

[[Image:Other side.jpg]]

[[Image:Wheel covers side view.jpg]]

take for a test drive. Mine was fine so I took them back off to paint the back side (black) and to clear coat the front. I chose to do this as rust insurance, steel pizza pans = rust after a few rocks hit them.

During my testing yesterday the pizza pans made a racket, I though they might be coming off, nope still on tight. It took me a few min to figure out what was causing the noise. If I push in on the center of the pans they flex in about 1/8" this makes the edges lift off the outer edge of the rim. when they come back they make a popping sound (try this at home, take a pan hold the edges and push in at the middle, release and that is that I have).

to fix this I was thinking of some felt pads on the inside of the pan, but they would not handle the wet weather very well. After some wondering around the workshop I got an inspired idea. I took some plastic tubing, slit it down one side and put it over the outer edge of the pizza pan (see thread for pics).

I used some hot glue at the joint. Once on the car the bolts hold it tight to the rim!

After a test drive that pizza pan stopped making noise (I can hear the others still). Now I need to make a run to the hardware store for some more tubing (4.5" per pizza pan).

----
== Test Data ==

[[Image:Smooth wheel covers data.jpg]]

[[Image:Smooth wheel covers data 2.jpg]]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>128</id>
  <revision>
    <id>130</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:19:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "== mcclanahoochie's Civic ==  [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino/ Back to main MPGuino page]    [http://mcclanahoochie.com/blog/portfolio/mpguino/ Blog Post]  Instal..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="268" xml:space="preserve">== mcclanahoochie's Civic ==

[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino/ Back to main MPGuino page]


[http://mcclanahoochie.com/blog/portfolio/mpguino/ Blog Post]

Installed

[[Image:Civic-mpguino-full.jpg|700px]]


Wiring

[[Image:Honda-civic-ecu-vss.jpg|700px]]</text>
    <sha1>0682fc5fdcaabf62bec1fdcd497090e711403e77</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>2003 Mazda Protege5</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>129</id>
  <revision>
    <id>131</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:20:15Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "== Connections: ==  All connections are at the ECM, which is located in the passenger side footwell, under the carpeting, and under a metal panel.  Here are the pins I used (a..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="745" xml:space="preserve">== Connections: ==

All connections are at the ECM, which is located in the passenger side footwell, under the carpeting, and under a metal panel.

Here are the pins I used (and also note the wire colors; depending on the vehicle options (with or without ABS, AT/MT, etc.) you may see a different color wire for VSS, but I think the location should be the same.

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ ECM Pins for MPGuino in 2003 Mazda Protege5
! Pin Number !! Color (Main/Stripe) !! Description 
|-
|| 4  || White/Green || 12V Constant
|-
|| 24 || Black/White || Ground
|-
|| 100 || Green/Black || Injector #4
|-
|| 58 || Green/Red || VSS
|}

== Calibration ==

VSS pulses/mile: 8203

microsec/gal:    0188390461

== MPGuino Hacking ==

[[Code_hacks]]</text>
    <sha1>6abc922e371c16b56d9131fade6e927ba0a3d547</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Weather Spotter Rear wheel skirts</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>130</id>
  <revision>
    <id>132</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:20:43Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Rear_wheel_skirts back to main wheel skirt page]]  The idea here is to keep the air flow attached to the car instead of having to jump ov..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3396" xml:space="preserve">[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Rear_wheel_skirts back to main wheel skirt page]]

The idea here is to keep the air flow attached to the car instead of having to jump over the wheel. Also the rotation of the wheels causes a disturbance that is minimized my covering over the wheel. 
[[Image:GEDC0156-1.jpg]]


----
'''How to make a wheel skirt'''

To make one, start by looking at the shape of the car body before and after the wheel wheel. This is the shape you want to match. Also look to see how far out past the wheel wheel you tire sticks. You will need to have the side skirt bow out to accommodate this space (plus a little gap to make sue they do not rub).  
[[Image:GEDC0136.jpg]]
[[Image:GEDC0139.jpg]]

To do this Make a brace to go along the bottom. I used an old metal yard stick. 
[[Image:GEDC0147.jpg]]
[[Image:GEDC0150.jpg]]

You should also make a paper template of the area you want to cover.
[[Image:GEDC0143.jpg]]

Next make and attach brackets to hold the bottom brace on. I used angle brackets bought from the local hardware store. I screwed them into the plastic (rear) into the metal lip (top) and epoxied the front one on. 
[[Image:GEDC0155.jpg]]
[[Image:GEDC0156.jpg]]

Next take your paper template and cut out your wheel skirt. I used some galvanized sheet steel I had. Others have used colorplast. If using sheet metal, mark along the template but cut about half an inch further out. Bend in along the marked line. This forms a rolled edge which adds strength and removes the sharp edge. pound the bent material flat (picture shows it just bent up, not hammered over yet).
[[Image:GEDC0136-1.jpg]] 
[[Image:GEDC0138.jpg]]

Now it is time for a test fit:
[[Image:GEDC0144.jpg]]
[[Image:GEDC0147-1.jpg]]

I attached my wheel skirt with flat head screws (to the brace) and used self tapping sheet metal screws to attach to the brackets. Nodice that for the top I used a hinge in place of a bracket, this allows for easier access to the air valve on the tire. 

If you like the fit, the next step is priming and painting to match. 
[[Image:GEDC0155-1.jpg]]
[[Image:GEDC0145.jpg]]
[[Image:GEDC0147-2.jpg]]

Reattach and test your results!

----
'''Test methods and results'''

steady state MPG Matrix wheel skirt testing			
Testing conditions:
Warmed up car by driving 15 miles before testing
Flat road was two miles long (one mile was the test distance). 
Measurements with done with a scan gauge. 
Tested in this order B, A, B2, A2
B= with both wheel skirts on
A= normal no skirt
Winds 5-8 N, NE	

I speed up the car to 55MPH (speed limit) and engaged cruse control (same setting for duration of testing). At my start point I hit reset on the ScanGauge's trip function. AT the end point (1 mile) I wrote down the trip average MPG. I turned around and ran the test from end to start. Each set (example "A") includes 6 runs south and 6 runs north at a mile per run. 

Here is my data:
[[Image:Screen shot 2010-08-18 at 10.14.jpg]]
[[Image:Screen shot 2010-08-12 at 3.03-1.jpg]] 

I would like to toss out my first set of "B" data because I found that the drive train does not warm up until 30+ miles have been driven. The data above contains all the data I gathered.  

Data summery: with wheel skirts I had a 1 to 1.5 % improvement in MPG. 

For more info and picts take a look at my thread:
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-help-my-matrix-14150.html]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>BOM</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>131</id>
  <revision>
    <id>133</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:20:59Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/ReVolt Return to previous page.]   ----   [[Control section]]  [[Power section]]"</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="117" xml:space="preserve">[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/ReVolt Return to previous page.]


----


[[Control section]]

[[Power section]]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Open ReVolt/Planned Features</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>132</id>
  <revision>
    <id>134</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:21:26Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  :main contactor control :pack voltage monitoring :motor speed sensor/back EMF :precharge resistor/contactor ::traction battery polarity reversal detect..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="328" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

:main contactor control
:pack voltage monitoring
:motor speed sensor/back EMF
:precharge resistor/contactor
::traction battery polarity reversal detection [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-160.html]

:It will be invisible and will make the car fly.</text>
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  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180709133900|103">
  <title>Weight effect on efficiency due to braking</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>133</id>
  <revision>
    <id>135</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:21:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>Daox</username>
      <id>2</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "To return to the main simulations page&lt;br&gt; [[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]]&lt;br&gt;  Weight reduction effect on fuel usage due to braking can be calcula..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="3110" xml:space="preserve">To return to the main simulations page&lt;br&gt;
[[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]]&lt;br&gt;

Weight reduction effect on fuel usage due to braking can be calculated using the following methods and equations.

The effect of weight on fuel efficiency is largely caused by braking which converts all of the inertial energy into heat in the brake pads. A very heavy car that accelerates up to 55mph and coasts down to 0 mph will use almost the same amount of fuel as a very light car doing the same acceleration and coast. The equations below only account for the effect of weight when braking from a specific speed.

'''Kinetic energy'''&lt;br&gt;
KE = 0.5 * m * V²&lt;br&gt;
KE is kinetic energy given in joules

Where: &lt;br&gt;
m is the mass in kg  &lt;br&gt;
V is velocity im meters per second &lt;br&gt;

Energy used to brake 50kg from 60 km/h to 0 km/h derived by user Saand is as follows&lt;br&gt;
Velocity difference is 16.67 M/s &lt;br&gt;

Energy =  0.5 * 50 * 16.67²7&lt;br&gt;
Energy = 6944 j


'''Energy available in petrol'''&lt;br&gt;
Translating the joules required into fuel volume is done using the following&lt;br&gt;

Each gallon of fuel has 114500 BTU which is given by wikipedia&lt;br&gt;
Each BTU is equivalent to 1055.056 joules&lt;br&gt;
So joules per gallon is 120.8 million joules (120803895)

'''Accounting for losses in converting petrols chemical energy to momentum'''&lt;br&gt;
The drive train is about 95% efficient

using 6944 j for the energy in the mass
The energy the engine has to put out is 7310 j

The efficiency of a cars engine is around 18%
The energy that the fuel has to provide to the engine is 40611 j

'''Petrol required'''&lt;br&gt;
Using the energy available in a gallon of petrol found above and the energy required by the petrol to accelerate the weight found above we can find the petrol required to accelerate that mass&lt;br&gt;

gallons = 40611/120803895
gallons = 0.000336
liters = 0.00127

'''Using this information'''&lt;br&gt;
You probably want to know what effect this has on your cars efficiency if you remove some weight.

The numbers calculated assume decelerating by braking from 60 to 0 km/h and a mass of 50 kg. So for every 50 kg reduction the calculated volume of petrol will likely be saved each acceleration.


If you are likely to remove 100kg then use double the volumes calculated, if you more frequently braking from a different speed down to 0 kph you will have to run through the calculations again as the velocity is a squared relationship.


If you remove 100kg you will save 0.0025 per 60 to 0 kph deceleration by braking.

To equate this to a efficiency improvement you will need to estimate how frequently you brake from 60 to 0 during a standard 100 km distance.
Assuming you brake from 60 to 0, 30 times every 100 km then every 100km you are saving 76ml after removing 100kg of weight from your car.
That is 0.076 liter per 100 km


To equate this to an efficiency improvement divide the number above by the standard liter per 100 km efficiency of your car.

assuming 6 liter per 100km this gives '''1.27%''' improvement

Note: The calculations above assume there is no coasting, it only accounts for braking.</text>
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  <title>Soulster grill block data</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_partial_or_full#Forum_thread_links Back to Grill Block page]]  Here is the data and some pictures of the mod.  Graph:  Imag..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="771" xml:space="preserve">[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_partial_or_full#Forum_thread_links Back to Grill Block page]]

Here is the data and some pictures of the mod.

Graph:

[[Image:Upper grill block graph.jpg]]

Data:

[[Image:Upper grill block data.jpg]]

The data is in a nice tight group! The change is only .35 MPG but the standard deviation is only .31. This makes for a reliable test result. 

Why this is lower than the others:
Smaller opening to start with so less aero loss to begin with. 

Before:

[[Image:Soul grill block 1.jpg]]

Test fit:

[[Image:Soul grill block2.jpg]]

All done:

[[Image:Soul grill block3.jpg]]

Thread with more information:

[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/soul-help-grill-block-14482.html#post192976 Soul Help (Grill block)]]</text>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/Testing</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  [[Open ReVolt/Testing/Jyanof|Jyanof's testing page]] (now defunct, see [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="215" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

[[Open ReVolt/Testing/Jyanof|Jyanof's testing page]] (now defunct, see [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html this thread] instead)</text>
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  <title>HOW I made a grill block Page</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-09T22:22:55Z</timestamp>
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      <id>2</id>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_%28upper_only%29 Back to main grill block page]]  Here is what I did to make a nice looking grill block. I had made an upper..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="2444" xml:space="preserve">[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_%28upper_only%29 Back to main grill block page]]

Here is what I did to make a nice looking grill block. I had made an upper (and lower) grill block last fall as it started getting cold but I did not like how the colorplast looked so I remade it out of steal. 

Here is what mine from last winter looked like:
[[Image:Grill last winter.jpg]]

Not a bad grill block but I did not like having the logo open (it stuck out too far to go over though). It came off in about 3 seconds (nice pop with a screwdriver).
[[Image:No grill block.jpg]]

First thing I did was to make a cardboard template. You can also start with paper, but my shape was not that complex so I went with cardboard. I took an old box and cut it to the height I wanted (top to bottom), then I taped it up on the car. Next I marked the rough edge (out about 1/2 an inch to give me room to fine tune the edge). Once that was done I marked the edge with a pencil and cut the exact edge I wanted. Repeat on the other side. I waited to do the other side so if I screwed up my cut I could just move the cardboard over and inch and try over.
[[Image:Grill cardboard.jpg]]
	
Next place your template on your grill block material. I used some galvanized steel (same as I used for my wheel skirts). If sheet steel is not handy try colorplast. 
[[Image:On sheet steel.jpg]]

Trace your template onto the grill block material (if using metal mark the shape and make a 3/8" larger line). Cut the line (use the outer one with metal). With colorplast skip this next step.

If using sheet metal bend along the traced line (inner one). Use vice grips to bend on the line up past a right angle. Then hammer over the tabs (pound it flat).
[[Image:Bent grill.jpg]]

This will make the edge rounded and not sharp (does not scratch paint or cut your hand when reaching for the hood release).

Now check your fit on the car:

[[Image:Grill test.jpg]]

If you like the results you can attach it (if not go back and fix it). I used self tapping sheet screws to hold mine on (screwed into the holes that were filled in on the back).
Other ways of attachment that worked for me:
Zip ties, nice for testing, not so good of looks.
Flat headed bolts (see the first picture).
[[Image:Screwed in.jpg]]

After painting (and 400 miles of driving):
[[Image:Grill_block.jpg]]


----

== Test Data ==

[[Image:Grill block data.jpg]]

[[Image:Grill block data 2.jpg]]</text>
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  <title>Car mod template</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]  [[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]] '''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt; ''Information required:'' W..."</comment>
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[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' What is the mod all about?&lt;br&gt;

== Instructions for mod ==
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for&lt;br&gt;
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars&lt;br&gt;

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&amp;lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]

=== External links ===
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</text>
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  <title>File:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-13T19:41:00Z</timestamp>
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  <title>MPGuino</title>
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    <text bytes="36483" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]
[[Image:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg
|right|thumb|400px|]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino_Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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[[File:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg
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MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino_Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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[[File:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg
|right]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino_Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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    <parentid>146</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-13T19:44:53Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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[[Image:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg
|right]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino_Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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    <parentid>147</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-13T19:45:54Z</timestamp>
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[[Image:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg|right]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino_Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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    <parentid>148</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-13T20:02:44Z</timestamp>
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[[Image:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg|right]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino Schematic.GIF]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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[[Image:400px-MPGuino Enclosure mounted.jpg|right]]


MPGuino started out as an impressive use of the Arduino platform to monitor a vehicle's fuel consumption or MPG (Miles per Gallon).
One that will actually pay for itself too. A small group of folks banded together and created an open platform called http://tvkchaitanya.com where you will not really find much information concerning this device, but there are lots of information in a forum at http://www.ecomodder.com, where you will find tons of useful and fun ways on improving gas mileage for any car. To explain what these folks did for the average working Joe, who can't quite afford a car newer than 1995, is just amazing. It still works for just about any car with fuel injection, but for cars built before 1996, there is no  OBD-II option. 

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html Release One Workspace]

Discussion thread for this page: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-talk-page-mpguino-14676.html#post196095 Wiki talk page for MPGuino ]


== Where to get preassembled units?  ==
DSchmidt Technologies (User:JellyBeanDriver)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html http://www.dschmidt.com/MPGuinoJBD.html]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: USA
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;MTH-Tek (User:Quezacotl)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/ http://www.mthtek.net/mpguino/]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Finland
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Meelis(User:meelis11)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng http://mpguino.wiseman.ee/eng]
&lt;BR&gt;Location: Estonia
&lt;BR&gt;Shipping: Worldwide
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;If the list is missing some seller, feel free to modify it.

== Getting started  ==

Advisory: There is a known issue with some early 90s/late 80s vehicles with "peak and hold" injectors that we do not currently have a solution for.  To see if you are impacted, the easiest way is to measure the ohmage of an injector. More details are here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html

Advisory: Chrysler vehicles with returnless fuel supply systems will have MPGuino fuel economy figures that will be thrown off by an average of 3% from actual, on an otherwise properly calibrated MPGuino. This is currently unavoidable. Tweaking MPGuino fuel calibration on these vehicles will only minimize this error, but will not eliminate it. Ford (and presumably other vehicle manufacturers) returnless fuel supply systems do not have this problem. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

Preassembled units are now available: http://opengauge.org/mpguino/ .
Note: as of late april 2010, the preassembled version has a metric option.

If you are using the kit, refer to http://spiffie.org/kits/mpguino/assemble.shtml . Otherwise, follow the Schematics.
Note: there are some significant delays being reported with the kit.

Or for the do-it-yourself type, here are the schematics. This should be enough for most of you. There are two assemblies that are possible to build. The Arduino or the [[IDuino]]. 

Notes: 

* The only inputs are leads for the VSS and the injector, and a 12vdc supply. That is it.
* The Analog pins in this schematic show pins 0, 3, 4, and 5 are used as digital I/O, therefore, Analog pin 0 is Digital pin 14 then count up from there.
* After assembly, use the [[Mpguino_tests]] to verify your interface wiring. 

&lt;big&gt;'''Arduino Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:MPGuino Schematic.gif]]


&lt;big&gt;'''[[IDuino]] Assembly Schematic'''&lt;/big&gt;

[[Image:iDuino_Schematic.GIF]]

Latest circuit diagram:
[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.png]


== Identifying connections on your car ==

'''Injector lead:'''&lt;br&gt;
(generic instructions that should work with most vehicles)&lt;br&gt;
unplug the injector lead(s) from the injector(s)&lt;br&gt;
turn on the ignition but not the starter&lt;br&gt;
select the/an injector plug (with the wires on it).&lt;br&gt;
look for 12 volts on one of the plug leads.&lt;br&gt;
use the lead that does NOT have 12 volts on it as the tap for the injector.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Speed signal(vss):'''&lt;br&gt;
While tracking fuel consumption is most useful, and cars generally have speed and distance instrumentation already (speedometer/odometer), it is most convenient to identify a signal to use for tracking vehicle distance/speed.  Unfortunately there isn't a generic way to do this.  You have to locate a schematic for your vehicle and do some guessing and testing, or follow someone elses instructions who has already been there on your particular model.  We are looking for a 0-12 volt signal here, and some cars might not even have a speed sensor stock or it may need some conditioning/amplifying before being used with the mpguino.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''Ground:'''&lt;br&gt;
Vehicle ground.&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
'''+12:'''&lt;br&gt;
This should be always on, when the car is off or in run or start, always on.  Use a voltmeter on the lead under off/run/start/accy if in doubt.&lt;br&gt;


== Table of Car Settings  ==

If you have mpguino data for your car, add a line for it here (by year/make/model)

{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ MPGuino Car Settings
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|-
|1987 Pontiac Fiero GT || 2.8L || 3 Spd Auto || 4000 || 0251500000* || || [http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/105119.html#p1 VSS at A10, Inj at D16]
|-
|1994 Acura Integra GSR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8189 || 0179214737 || ||
|-
|1995 Acura Integra LS 2DR || 1.8L DOHC || 5 Spd Man || 8188 || 0201012289* || ||
|-
|[[User:Rmccomiskie|1997 Audi A6 Quattro]] || 2.8L || Automatic || 13406 || 128027612 || 72uS || 1
|-
|1989 Chevy Celebrity || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4002†† || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1993 Chevy Suburban k1500 4x4 || 5.7L V8 || Automatic || 8000††† || 0038823529* || *||2
|-
|[[1994 Chevy Astro Van]]|| 4.3L Vin 'Z' || 4 Spd Auto || 4002 || 0055314688* || || 3
|-
|1990 Chrysler Lebaron 4dr|| 3.0L (6G72) || Automatic || 16250 || 27550990 || ||
|-
|2005 Dodge Magnum SXT || 3.5L SOHC || Automatic || 10000†††† || 125884406 || || 5
|-
|1995 Dodge Neon Sport || 2.0L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 9926 || 0057442679 || || 4
|-
|1993 Ford Escort || 1.9L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 15809* || 0374855321* || ||
|-
|1999 Ford Escort ZX2 || 2.0L ZETEC || 5MT || 15900 || 0266400000 || || 6
|-
|1994 Ford Ranger || 3.0L (Vulcan) || 5 Spd Man || 8000 || 233667407 || ||
|-
|1991 Geo Metro Xfi || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8231 || 0488554960 || ||
|-
|1992 Geo Metro || 1.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8208* || 0500000000* || ||*initial settings, will revise as appropriate
|-
|1998 [[Metro]] || || ||8208 || 0500000000 || ||
|-
|2000 GMC Sierra Extended Cab 4x4 || 5.3L V8 || Automatic || 8000 || 0108507850 || ||
|-
|[[2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe]] || 1.7L || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0272500000* || 72us ||
|-
|1999 Honda Civic HX Coupe || 1.6L || 5 Spd manual || * || * ||||
|-
|1995 Honda Civic DX Sedan || 1.5L || 5 Spd manual || 8214 || 0199405064 ||||
|-
|1994 Honda Civic VX 49-state || 1.5L lean burn|| 5 spd manual || 8208 || 0279235000 || ||
|-
|1996 Honda civic LX 4dr || 1.5L lean burn JDM DUAL VTEC || 5 spd manual (VX) || 8208 || 0262922450 || ||  *first calibration ** set revs2/ rpm to 1 for japanese (rpm's off by 1/2 @ stock position)
|-
|2007-8 Honda Fit || 1.5L || Automatic || 8295 || 0312000000 || ||
|-
|199X Jeep Wrangler** || 4.0L I6 || Manual || ???? || ???? || ||
|-
|[[2006 Jeep Wrangler]] || 4.0L I6 || 6 Sp Manual || 16000* || * || ||
|-
|[[User:Ac7ss#1992_Mazda_B2600i|1992 Mazda B2600i]] || 2.6L || 5 spd Man || 8390 || 0208212230  || ||
|-
|[[2003 Mazda Protege5]] || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 8203 || 0188390461 || ||
|-
|1995 Mazda Familia (Protege in US) || 1.5L (Z5-DE) || 5 Spd Man || 8000* || 0354882375* || ||
|-
|1995 Mercedes E320 w/ASR || 3.2L || 4 Spd Auto || 160000# || 0147666000* || ??us ||
|-
|1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST || 2.0L || 5 Spd Man || 16364 || 126180393 || ||
|-
|1997 Nissan Primera || 2.0L (SR20VE) || 5 spd man || 2486 || || || Still fine tuning VSS but is within 0.18km of correct speed.
|-
|2003 Nissan Xterra XE || 3.3L  || Automatic || 4100 || 179218375 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac 6000 || 2.8L || 4 spd auto || 8000 || 0251500000 || ||
|-
|1989 Pontiac Grand Prix || 3.1L || 4 spd auto || 4000 || TBD || ||
|-
|1992 Plymouth Acclaim || 3.0L (6G72) || 3 Spd Auto || 6000 || ? || ||
|-
|1992 Pontiac Trans Sport || 3.8L || 4 Spd Auto || 8005 || 0178435000 || ||
|-
|1992 Saturn SL1* || 1.9L || 5 spd man || 10000 || || || Vss Grn/wht d kik panel pos T
|-
|1993 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2*|| 1.9L ||  || 9800 || 0034611836 || ||
|-
|1995 Saturn SL2* || 1.9L || 5 Spd Man || 27500 || 0175000000 || || Preliminary estimates based on known approximate values
|-
|1997 Saturn SL2,SC2,SW2,S2|| 1.9L ||  || 10000 || 0289967320 || ||
|-
|2005 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 2.5RS || 2.5L N/A || 5MT || 8000 || 183165000* || ||
|-
|1994 Suzuki Swift GA Sedan|| 1.3L SOHC || 5 Spd Man || 7880* || 0468436463* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Camry LE || 2.0L (3S-FE) || Automatic || 8396* || 1584108048* || ||
|-
|1993 Toyota Camry || 3.0 V6 || Automatic || 8187* || 0157633351* || ||
|-
|1995 Toyota Camry LE || 2.2 (5SFE) || Automatic || 4000* || 0258096273* || || VSS Violet/Yellow, Location 2 Right Connector in ECM
|-
|[[User:McTimson#1993_Toyota_Tercel|1993 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L (3E-E) || 4 Spd Man || 8208 || 0415667401 || ||
|-
|[[User:shiba#1998_Toyota_Tercel|1998 Toyota Tercel]] || 1.5L 5E-FE || 5 spd manual || 8204* || 0308743446* || ||
|-
|1990 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.6L 4A-FE || 3 Spd Auto || 8226 || 0326980000 || || ECU 26P-12 (yellow): Fuel injector; ECU 16P-13 (violet/white): VSS 
|-
|1994 Toyota Corolla DX || 1.8L 7(A-FE) || 4 Spd Auto || 8208 || 0273600000* || ||
|-
|2005 Toyota Corolla LE || 1.8L || Automatic || 8184 || 0225218193 || ||
|-
|1991-3† Toyota Previa || 2.4L (2TZ-FE) || 4 spd auto OD || 7885* || 0250463822* || ||
|-
|1991 Volvo 240 || 2.3L (B230F) || 5 spd manual || 20000* || 0274677364* || || VSS is 20000 or 196000
|-
|1994 Ford Bronco || 5.8L (351W) || E4OD || 16003 || 142487047 ||  ||
|-
! Car Year Make Model !! Engine !! Transmission !! VSS (count/mile) !! usec/gal !! Inj DelayuS !! Notes
|}
(*)Calibration still under way.

(**)The infamous 1996 Jeep Wrangler was never produced. Jeep did not manufacture a Wrangler for that Model Year. It was cut off in 1995 and resumed in 1997. 1986-1995 Wrangler YJ's had Square Headlights, and in 1997, they went back to round headlights, if that helps the owner distinguish which model year they have.

(†)My reasearch shows all gen 1 Previas  have the same VSS pulse but injectors may be different on supercharged models.

(††)Vehicle is getting pulses from cruise control circuit.  8000 PPM may be expected if tapping into speedometer circuit.

(†††)Vehicle is getting pulse from cruise control circuit tapped at the red/white wire that goes into the throttle servo box located fender side of the brake booster. This wire is post VSS buffering I believe.

(††††)VSS signal obtained with XSVI-6522-NAV Chrysler CAN interface car stereo adapter, which provides a navigation radio VSS signal of 10000 pulses per mile.

(#) Honest. This is the VSS output from the E-Gas module taken from Pin 2 of X2/4 (4-pole at passenger kickpanel). The Speedo's VSS has low voltage. You must have the VSS Debounce set to ZERO for this to work.

Notes:

1. Audi (97 A6) speedometer has K=6703 on bezel. That's pulses per mile. MPGuino counts VSS both rising and falling = 13406. uSec per gallon is based on the fuel flow signal from the ECU. The latest uSec/Gal is based on 32 tanks of gas and is accurate within +/-1%.

2. Without Inj DelayuS info for these TBI injectors, accuracy is impossible as small changes here make a big difference. My estimated usec/gal based on instant mpg set to known mpg of 10.5mpg was 0022,000,000 but the calculated usec/gal for the 55# orange/black injectors is 0196,363,636.36

3. A lot of GM TBI engines use peak and hold injectors. All the Vin Z 4.3L trucks used peak and hold injectors in this year range so until a perfect solution is found they don't reliably read the fuel rate. for a list of known cars with peak and hold injectors see: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/late-80s-early-90s-gm-tbi-advisory-6863.html  For discussion on solutions see http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/gallons-per-hour-error-6841.html

4. Units are litres and kilometres - the 075m Metric version was used.

5. Chrysler returnless fuel supply systems will cause MPGuino fuel delivery calculations to be thrown off by an average of about 3%, on an otherwise perfectly calibrated unit. Chrysler owners with an MPGuino should calculate usec/gal figures that use a fuel pressure of 65 psig (448 kPa), which assumes a constant intake manifold vacuum of 7 psig - this should minimize any fuel economy calculation errors that result. More information here: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/advisory-chrysler-returnless-fuel-supply-systems-26165.html

6. Ford (and presumably any other vehicle manufacturer besides Chrysler) returnless fuel pressure supply systems feature computer-controlled fuel pumps that vary fuel pressure according to intake manifold vacuum, just like an older engine-vacuum controlled mechanical fuel pressure regulator. The MPGuino should work fine with vehicles using this returnless fuel supply system.

==Useful Links==
[[Code_hacks | MPGuino Code Hacks]]

[[Mpguino calibration |Calibration instructions]]

Excel spreadsheet to figure microseconds/gallon from Lbs/hr or cc/min (thanks wagonman76) [http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1686&amp;d=1220574728]

A little more detail on the Theory and a few more pics - [http://combustory.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino Theory of Operation]

Injector Selection Guide Calculator. If you know your engine's horsepower, and the number of injectors, it will give you a best guess [http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php]

Injector list with flow rates: [http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:BzjDqar123MJ:mrtwo.mine.nu/uploaded/gecko/2008819205954_InjectorSpecsJDM.xls+%2223250+76010%22&amp;hl=en&amp;ct=clnk&amp;cd=6&amp;client=safari]

Online repair manuals including electrical diagrams[http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm]

VSS values for many models '86-'95 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.seekic.com]

VSS values for many models '96-'08 (Rostra Precision Controls)[http://www.rostra.com/pdf/Form4428.pdf]

Atmega328 Chip upgrade for Atmega168 mpguino users: [http://www.adafruit.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=123]


==Screens and Functions==

1. "Custom":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MG''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''GH''' Instant GPH | '''C''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

2. "Instant/Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''CM''' Current MPG | '''D''' Current Miles |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

3. "Instant/Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''IM''' Instant MPG | '''S''' Instant Speed |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TM''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''D''' Tank Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

4. "BIG Instant":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Instant MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

5. "BIG Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Current MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

6. "BIG Tank:":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;| Tank MPG |&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;

7. "Current":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Current MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Current MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Current Miles | '''GA''' Current Gallons |
&lt;/code&gt;

8. "Tank":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''MH''' Tank MPH&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''MG''' Tank MPG&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
| '''MI''' Tank Miles | '''GA''' Tank Gallons | 
&lt;/code&gt;

9. "EOC mi/Idle gal":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''CE''' Current EOC Miles | '''G''' Current Idle Gallons |&lt;br&gt;
| '''TE''' Tank EOC Miles&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; | '''G''' Tank Idle Gallons&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

10. "CPU Monitor":&lt;br&gt;
&lt;code&gt;
| '''C%''' Max %CPU utilization | '''T''' Tank run time |&lt;br&gt;
| Free Memory (bytes) |&lt;br&gt;
&lt;/code&gt;

Modifications for metric mode:
&lt;code&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Custom screen:
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;GH-&gt;LH (Gallons Per Hour =&gt; Litres per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;Combo Screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;IM-&gt;IL (Instant MPG -&gt; Instant L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;CM-&gt;CL (Current MPG -&gt; Current L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;TM-&gt;TL (Tank MPG -&gt; Tank L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Big number screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MPG-&gt;L/K (MPG -&gt; L/100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;Trip screens: 
&lt;BR&gt;MH-&gt;KH (Miles Per Hour -&gt; KM per Hour)
&lt;BR&gt;MG-&gt;LK (Miles Per Gallon -&gt; Liters per 100KM)
&lt;BR&gt;MI-&gt;KM (Miles -&gt; KiloMeters)
&lt;BR&gt;GA-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;BR&gt;EOC/Idle screen:
&lt;BR&gt;G-&gt; L (Gallons -&gt; Liters)
&lt;/code&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Contrast''' - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''VSS Pulses/Mile''' - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here. (Note: Later versions of the code have a setting for VSS Debounce, default is 2 mSec. With high VSS values, this needs to be set to 1 or zero)
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''MicroSec/Gallon''' - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Pulses/2 revs''' - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Timout(microSec)''' - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Tank Gal * 1000''' - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Injector DelayuS''' - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;hr&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Buttons:'''
&lt;BR&gt;Current button assignments as follows,
&lt;BR&gt;left: cycle through screeens in reverse
&lt;BR&gt;middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
&lt;BR&gt;right: cycle through screeens forward
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle: tank reset
&lt;BR&gt;right+middle: current reset
&lt;BR&gt;left+middle+right: go to setup screen
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''Installation notes:'''
&lt;BR&gt;For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
&lt;BR&gt;1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Unplug an injector.
&lt;BR&gt;3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. &lt;BR&gt;You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of 
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''IMPORTANT''', you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;On my(user:dcb) saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.


== Troubleshooting/FAQ ==

'''Will unplugging the ECU of my vehicle mess anything up?''' 

''No, granted you make sure you restore the original connections/plugs.''

'''Do I need to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery before connecting the MPGuino to my vehicle?'''

''It is generally a wise idea to do so when working with any vehicle wiring or power, as is the case with this project.''

'''What if my LCD text is messed up or frozen?'''

''First, try power cycling the unit.  Unplug the power source, wait 20 seconds, then plug it back in. This wait period is important. If you plug it back in too soon you may freeze the bootloader in a loop and you will have to reload the program: [http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.pde] Copy and paste the code into the Arduino 0011 Alpha program which you can download from: [http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software], Then "upload to I/O board" on your  MPGuino using a USB cable. The correct baud rate for upload is 19200, on the spiffie kit MPGuino.

"Make sure the jumper is correctly placed for the power source that you are using.  You can also try simultaneously pressing the left and right buttons in order to reinitialize the LCD.''

'''When connecting the injector lead to the MPGuino, do I need a signal from each injector?'''

''No, you only need one injector signal.  Make sure it is the 0V side of the injector that receives the ECU signal.''

'''Can I use any LCD, or am I stuck with the one in the parts list?'''

''You may use another LCD, but the connections and source may have to be changed in order for the LCD to function properly.  It is best to stick with either the  [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3vk7fz9CmNyMf5SJZ5h05A%3d%3d green LCD] or the [http://www.nkcelectronics.com/16x2-lcd-module-while-characters-blue-backli162.html blue LCD].  A number of users prefer the Green LCD as it has less glare in daylight, but others like the looks of the blue one. This [http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=791 red LCD] has been used successfully.''

'''What power source should I use for my MPGuino?'''

''You should tap into battery.  In other words, you don't want switched power (i.e., power that is only on when the key is turned).  A couple of places to start would be the power and ground leads of the ECU or the non-switched power of your stereo head unit.  Consult wiring diagrams or documentation for more details for your specific vehicle.''

'''What are good starting values for VSS pulses per mile and injector uSeconds/gallon?'''

''For the injector numbers, please look at [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-30.html#post58791 this post].  The injector number can be fine-tuned after comparing the gallons displayed on the MPGuino with the actual gallons used to fill up.  Repeat for a few fillups to get a more accurate reading.  Multiply or divide the usec/gallon by the factor you are off in order to fine-tune the number.  For the VSS, start with a multiple of 8204 for foreign cars and 10000 for GM vehicles.  In order to get a more exact number, you need to calibrate it based on a known distance and multiply (or divide) by the factor that you are off.  Repeat until you are satisfied with the accuracy.''

'''Why is analog pin 0 labeled as digital pin 14?'''

''They are one in the same.  digital pin 14 is analog 0, digital pin 15 is analog 1, and so on.''

'''Can this be used on a carbureted engine?'''

''See [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115-24.html#post47795 this post] or [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mileage-computer-carbureted-engine-1123.html this thread] for more information.''

== Custom versions ==
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204.html#post88944 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. Based on v0.75.
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-2.html#post138794 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.79 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-3.html#post139002 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.80 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-4.html#post202348 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.81 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-5.html#post356464 mluckham's version] - Canadian version for kilometers. (v0.82 mluckham's fork)
&lt;BR&gt;[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/canadian-version-kilometers-7204-9.html#post383213 alin151's version] - Canadian version, based on v0.86.
&lt;BR&gt;
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/t-vagos-mpguino-workspace-thread-26469.html t vago's version of MPGuino] - Complete re-write of v0.86. Has support for MAP based compensation for Chrysler Returnless Fuel Supply Systems, and a bunch of other features. It supports on-the-fly swapping between metric and either US or Imperial units. Feature list is extremely long. Copying and pasting code into arduino IDE 1.6.5 and uploading with the arduino IDE works without issue. &lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Feel free to add custom versions if you find.

== Official SW Release notes  ==
Development has ended for now. For list of "hacks", go to [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Code_hacks]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;Here are the latest release notes as of this writing.  Get the latest SW from:
&lt;BR&gt;[http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/mpguino/mpguino.cpp]
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''04/24/2010 updates for v0.86'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;software:
&lt;BR&gt;1. Metric options, litres, km, l/100km
&lt;BR&gt;Setup is still in english for simplified table of car values, metric display is option at end of setup (left + right buttons), will convert values to metric at display time if metric=1.
&lt;BR&gt;Uses Litres/Kilometers, and consumption is in Liters/100KM
&lt;BR&gt;2. Added another decimal place to the big numbers (more useable in L/100km mode)
&lt;BR&gt;i.e. it can display X.XX or XX.X or XXX depending how large the number is.
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;hardware:
&lt;BR&gt;1. upgraded to atmega328.
&lt;BR&gt;2. switched to npn backlight driver, driven from vehicle voltage through a 1 watt resistor rather than regulator.
&lt;BR&gt;3. tied in the analog vss and vcc to facilitate analog inputs.
&lt;BR&gt;4. added pads for all unused pins (except reset), now experimetors can easily get to rx, tx, aref, 2 analogs and 2 pwm pins.
&lt;BR&gt;5. Turned down brownout detection (we are not writing except at config)
&lt;BR&gt;6. Disabled self programming for stability.
&lt;BR&gt;7. CPU Utilization = 49.86%, Free Ram = 1189 bytes, Free Flash = 13920 bytes
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.82'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;1. Running at 20mhz now (crystal change on prebuilt). CPU utilization down to %49.18 (from %60.13) and signal sensing should be %25 more accurate. 247 bytes free ram, 1996 bytes free flash.
&lt;BR&gt;2. Went back to thinner font on big numbers.
&lt;BR&gt;3. changed setup shortcut behavior. left+right will automatically advance to next setup value (like going to x and hitting middle).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;'''06/06/2009 updates for v0.81'''
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;added InjTrg setup parameter. Set this to 1 if you need to change the trigger direction on injector pulse detection (i.e. if using audi/vw/tdi fuel consumption signal).
&lt;BR&gt;
&lt;BR&gt;
'''03/19/2009 updates for v0.80'''

No functional changes, but from .80 on there will be a mpguino.cpp file added to the repository. The .75 mpguino.pde file will remain for the arduino crowd, but needed to get away from the arduino framework to make more room with the existing hardware and try and solve some potential reliability issues for the preassembled units (now shipping with v.80) .

Changed programming method to isp (instead of bootloader) and using the following fuses after much experimentation:
lock 0x2b , do not allow any spm commands from anywhere, should help prevent flash corruption.
efuse 0x07 , change reset address to 0x00, min bootsize (just in case)
hfuse 0xdd , 2.7v brownout detection, had lots of problems with 4.3v setting, i.e. unit resets when starting car.
lfuse 0xef , maximum delay on power up.


2190 bytes free (yay, elbow room).

Note: I'm still using the gcc and avrdude that came with the arduino-0011 install.


'''02/02/2009 updates for v0.75'''

added the instant gph fix per fx57. See http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/instant-gph-jitter-fix-6861.html for details.

MAC USERS reflashing V0.75 with arduino 0011: If you get a sketch too big message, comment out(  /*....*/  ) the section of code in this post: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/93084-post877.html]

'''10/01/2008 updates for v0.74'''

added a small serial transmitter function. The guino now outputs the following data over the serial port at 9600 baud every half second: 
instantmpg,instantmph,instant.injHius,instant.injP ulses,instant.vssPulses

So "realtime" laptop/cellphone integration should be a snap if your guino has a usb/rs232 connection or you can build one and you can gather the data on the laptop/cellphone. This also has applications for remote displays.

I also added a #define usedefaults so that you can build the guino without a lcd if you intend to only use it with a laptop/cellphone. It will simply skip the setup screen/loading of eprom values.

Since all the interesting data is already going over the serial port now, I removed the debug ifdef branching.


'''9/20/2008 updates for v0.73'''

added large comment about only running on arduino 0011 to top of program

fixed strange instant bignum eoc display

added VSS Delay ms setup parm (default to 2, can set to 0 but distance accuracy may suffer)

added "move to next field" in editor, press left and right simultaneously to move to OK, XX, first digit.

replaced RPM with GPH on custom screen, more universal.

Updated eprom loader/saver. Keeps track of number of parameters in eprom so a new version can default new setup parameters.

updated addEvent to just call the event if time parameter is 0


'''9/10/2008 updates for v0.72'''

to get to setup, use left and right buttons now. No middle button there, so less accidental resetting of current or tank trip.

Added eoc miles/Idle gallons screen after tank data. Tracked for current and tank. Layout:
Current EOC Miles, Current idle Gallons
Tank EOC Miles, Tank idle Gallons 

removed raw screens

default contrast set for green display 95

Default to metro values, 500000000 us/Gallon, 8208 vss pulses/mile, 3 pulses/2 revolutions

instantmpg returns 999999 in eoc now

used ishi's formatter, and jmilk's brightness suggestion to get it to fit.

sketch 14104 bytes, 303 bytes ram free, cpu %51


'''9/8/2008 updates for v0.71'''

1. Settled on 1/2 second average for vss. Metro is reasonably smooth now.

2. Added Custom screen as first screen with following layout.
INSTANT MPG, MPH
RPM, CURRENT MPG
Tweak doDisplayCustom function to put different values if you like.

3. Added rpm (you have to get the pulses per 2 revolutions parm right)

4. Added instant gph function (not displayed by default)

Notes, instant mph is a small bit wobbly on the signal generator and rpm also seems to read a bit high. But it is definitely an improvement.

I also had to ifdef out tons of stuff when in debug mode just to get the Serial library to fit. So bignumbers and parameter editor won't work in debug mode as-is.

sketch size: 13814 bytes, free mem 325, CPU% 52.42. We are for all practical purposes at the limit without a major re-write or some serious optimization and retest work, or an atmega328, or?


'''8/9/2008 updates for v0.70'''

More experiments with vss processing. Instant mph is very smooth on saturn but still jumps a bit on the metro. Distance reading on metro appears reasonably accurate (102.6 miles on odo, 102.18 on mpguino using 8208 vsspulses/mile). So the guino is doing a pretty good job of counting the vss pulses, it is a little erratic in timing the pulses though.

want to add EOC miles to the trip next, don't know if it will fit
sketch size: 12884


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.69'''

Added event handler and added debouncing on vss. Still trying to clean up reed switch vss signal via software with no luck. will make separate post for vss issue.

Added instantaneous mph (mpg is next), this looks at the time between vss peaks to determine the speed instead of the number of pulses in the last half second, which was jumpy at slow speeds. We are getting really really tight on space. That might also be an issue when 0012 comes out (don't know when).


'''8/1/2008 updates for v0.68'''

Removed all dependencies on timer0 so we should be arduino 0012 compatible. This also establishes an ISR under our control for scheduling events. Disabled Timer0 so use millis2(), delay2(), etc.

Knocked off a few hundred bytes by converting LCD to a namespace instead of a class.


'''7/10/2008 updates for v0.67'''

Incorporated LCD timings from Yoshi, removed pin 15 code and power up detection code.

moved source code to google/svn Revision 32: /trunk

other happenings:
did a test with the scope regarding the voltage drop at peak pulse. I had the guino set a pin high and low within the interrupts receiving high and low and the pulse widths were the same except the generated one was perfectly square. So that is a good thing. Will need to test exactly what voltage level is acceptable.

The power supply on the scope died I think I just need a new TL431C or NTE999 though. I didn't get a chance to witness the vss bounce, the scope died during the attempt.

I am planning on moving all timing critical code to timer 2 with an event handler. I need real interrupt style debouncing for the vss and might as well use it as an event scheduler for debouncing the buttons as well as whatever else. This move will also allow for arduino0012 compatability.


'''6/27/2008 updates for v0.66'''

ADDED AN ONBOARD VARIABLE EDITOR!!! VARIABLES STORED IN EEPROM!! Now you can upgrade and not lose your settings and make adjustments in the car. Refer to post 1[/url] for screens and edit usage.

Updated screens descriptions in post 1

Checked source into sourceforge.net, linked post 1 to sourceforge (ran out of room again and wiki didn't like the extension .pde).

Sketch size 11734, 448 bytes free


'''6/26/2008 updates for v0.65'''

Added 7 minute activity timeout. It saves the state of the persistent trips (just tank for now) at the point of last activity and after 7 minutes of no injector pulses/vss pulses/or button presses, it turns off the LED backlight and sets up current to be reset and tank to be restored when activity resumes.

Despazed the buttons and Screen labels so they display for a second and accidental double button presses are minimized.

Running out of excuses (and room) to no do the user input/eprom setup screen thing Sketch size 10502 bytes.


'''6/23/2008 updates for v0.64'''

Fixed instant/tank screen (was displaying instant/current on that screen).

Improved LCD reinit on reprogram/reset. Can (usually) tell if LCD needs reinitializing. Press left and right buttons to force an LCD init if necessary. Want to free pin 15 for future tasks if it works well enough.

Added a bit of default verbiage to debug mode.

Working on a portable scope deal.


'''6/20/2008 updates for v0.63'''

Wrote 64bit arithmetic routines, yay no more messing with "ifs" when it should be math!

Noticed double vss count didn't make it in .62, fixed.

Subtracting 500uS from each injector pulse.

Added cli/sei around top of loop trip copy.

Made big font a smidgeon bolder.

Code updated, sketch size 9812, CPU 54%, free mem 602</text>
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    <comment>Redirected page to [[Car MPG Efficiency Modifications Main]]</comment>
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  <title>Theoretical Weight Energy</title>
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  <title>Current Features</title>
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    <comment>Created page with "    The [[Open ReVolt]] Project: [[Open ReVolt|Wiki main page]] | [http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/evmotorcontrollers.html Paul's website] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/..."</comment>
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    <text bytes="290" xml:space="preserve">    The [[Open ReVolt]] Project: [[Open ReVolt|Wiki main page]] | [http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/evmotorcontrollers.html Paul's website] | [http://ecomodder.com/forum/open-revolt-open-source-dc-motor-controller.html Forum thread] | [http://greencarvideos.blogspot.com/ Donate]

----</text>
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<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Template:Ecomodding project</title>
  <ns>10</ns>
  <id>170</id>
  <revision>
    <id>182</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:15:05Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]''' | '''[[Ecomodding projects|Return to the EcoModding Projects Page]] Image:Ecomodder.icon.jpg|right|thumb|1080px|frame|(Ecomodding Projec..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="4729" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]''' | '''[[Ecomodding projects|Return to the EcoModding Projects Page]]
[[Image:Ecomodder.icon.jpg|right|thumb|1080px|frame|(Ecomodding Projects)]]
=The Car :=
{|cellspacing="0" Border=2 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, Year, Transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Honda Civic, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}

=EcoModding Project :=
*''(Put a description of your Ecomodding project, you can put an introduction, the () are for the things you need to modify.)''
*'''(EcoModder Forum Thread Link) | (Other Links)'''
==(Project Title)==
*''(Put what you want to achieve with this project.)''
*''(You can also provide some info on the EPA fuel consumption of your car, and a descrption of the car components.)''
=Car Modifications List :=
==Instrumentation :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the instrumentation)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the instrumentation)
|-
|}
==Aerodynamic Mods :==
===Aerodynamic Mods - Deletion :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the deletion you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
===Aerodynamic Mods - Fabrication :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Drivetrain Mods :==
===Drivetrain Mods - Engine Mechanical :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
===Drivetrain Mods - Engine Accessory :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
===Drivetrain Mods - Transmission/Differential :===
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Electrical mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Wheel &amp; Tire Mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Other Mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}
==Unproven Mods :==
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :
|-
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%)  || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)
|-
|}

= References =
== Forum thread links ==

== External links ==
[http://www.ecomodder.com EcoModder.com]</text>
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  <title>X-Gauge Repertory</title>
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    <id>183</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:19:52Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[X-Gauge Commands Repertory]]</comment>
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    <text bytes="40" xml:space="preserve">#REDIRECT [[X-Gauge Commands Repertory]]</text>
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  <title>Controller Hardware</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:21:09Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[X-Gauge Commands Repertory]]</comment>
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    <text bytes="40" xml:space="preserve">#REDIRECT [[X-Gauge Commands Repertory]]</text>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>EcoModding projects</title>
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    <id>185</id>
    <parentid>107</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:22:46Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <minor/>
    <comment>MetroMPG moved page [[Ecomodding projects]] to [[EcoModding projects]]</comment>
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    <text bytes="6175" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]
[[Image:wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Ecomodding Projects]]
'''/!\ This Page is under construction - Please help it grow /!\'''&lt;br&gt;
This is the category where you can link or create a page for your cars modifications&lt;br&gt;

Visitors to this site that want to get better fuel efficiency should find many ways to decrease their fuel usage with independantly tested improvement results, tested by ecomodder users. Visitors that are interested in these modifications or have other ideas may find the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/ ecomodder forums ] worthwhile as most of the data in this wiki has been generated by the forum users.&lt;br&gt;


All ecomodder users are encouraged to modify the pages contained in these links with their own experiences, users must sign in to modify pages. For all mods please only list scientifically backed information and please provide supporting references with links. Efficiency improvement results should only be based on back to back tests under the same conditions. If there is no proven tested efficiency improvement listed ecomodders are welcome to estimate an efficiency improvement however please state that it is an estimate.&lt;br&gt;

For any significant changes or suggestions to this page, please discuss here: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-wiki-up-running-thread-suggestions-14289.html Main Mod Page Forum Discussion Link]


Drivers can also perform efficient driving techniques for free efficiency gains.  See the wiki for a comprehensive list : '''[[Hypermiling_Techniques|Efficient Driving Techniques Wiki]]'''&lt;br&gt;

Drivers can also perform modifications to their cars for higher efficiency gains. See below for a wiki with a comprehensive list : '''[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main|Car Efficiency Modifications Wiki]]'''&lt;br&gt;

=EcoModding Projects=
Here will be listed the project pages you can create for your ecomodded cars.

*Please, this is only for ecomod projects, not for discussion.
==Small Gasoline Cars==
List of all the Small Gasoline Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="10%"| % Above EPA :!!width="10%"| Description : 
|-
| Toyota Echo Sedan, 2005, Manual || 30 MPG (US) || 38 MPG (US) || 33 MPG (US) || 63.5 MPG (US) || 91.5% Above EPA ||[[Echo-Troll Ecomodding Project]]
|-
|}

==Small Diesel Cars==
List of all the Small Diesel Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. VolksWagon Jetta TDi, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Gasoline Trucks/Pickups==
List of all the Gasoline Trucks/Pickups moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Honda CR-V, 2004, Automatic)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Diesel Trucks/Pickups==
List of all the Diesel Trucks/Pickups moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Dodge Ram, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Small Hybrid Cars==
List of all the Small Hybrid Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Honda Insight, 2006, Manual)|| (Ex, 65 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 55 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 60 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Hybrid Trucks==
List of all the Hybrid Trucks Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Ford Escape Hybrid, 2010, CVT)|| (Ex, 45 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 55 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 50 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 65 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==All EV Cars==
List of all the EV Cars moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Nissan Leaf, 2012, CVT)|| (Ex, 100 MPGe (US))  || (Ex, 80 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 90 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 145 MPGe (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}
==Motorcycle==
List of all the Motorcycle moddification pages :
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : 
|-
|(Ex. Kawasaki ZX6, 2010, Manual)|| (Ex, 85 MPG (US))  || (Ex, 75 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 100 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)
|-
|}

==Template==
Here is a template if you want to create a page for your ecomodded car :&lt;br&gt;
'''[[Template:Ecomodding project|Template to create your project page]]'''</text>
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  <title>Ecomodding projects</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:22:46Z</timestamp>
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      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>MetroMPG moved page [[Ecomodding projects]] to [[EcoModding projects]]</comment>
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<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>ScanGauge</title>
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    <id>187</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:24:34Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[ScanGauge OBD-II computer]]</comment>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>MPGuino DIY fuel consumption computer</title>
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    <id>188</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:25:27Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Alternative fuel consumption instruments]]</comment>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Casing</title>
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    <id>189</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:26:17Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt/Case]]</comment>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Future Features</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:27:09Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt/Planned Features]]</comment>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Testing</title>
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    <id>191</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:34:34Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt/Testing]]</comment>
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  <title>Open ReVolt/Testing</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-18T18:36:23Z</timestamp>
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      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
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    <text bytes="184" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

Jyanof's testing page (now defunct, see [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html this thread] instead)</text>
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  <title>Controller Software</title>
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    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt/Software]]</comment>
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  <title>Fab Files</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:16:32Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt/Fab Files]]</comment>
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</page>
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  <title>PCB Schematics</title>
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      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics]]</comment>
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  <title>Open ReVolt FAQ</title>
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<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>ReVolt</title>
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    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:21:42Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
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    </contributor>
    <comment>Redirected page to [[Open ReVolt]]</comment>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Radio antenna</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
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  <revision>
    <id>198</id>
    <parentid>16</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:41:30Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
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    <text bytes="3627" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Aerodynamic_Mods_-_Deletions|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:Antenna.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Radio antennas aren't the biggest things in the world, but they do stick out in the way, and you definitely won't find traditional "whip" style antennas on high-efficiency concept &amp; production cars.

You can either remove it or relocate it to a more aerodynamically friendly location.

== Instructions for mod ==
Check your workshop manual for removal of the antenna

Many antennas are easy to remove. However antennas that are in one of the pillars of the car cabin can be very difficult to remove. A typical process for removing a antenna from a drivers side cabin pillar is as follows.&lt;br&gt;
- Remove the drivers side lower console cover (the panel or panels covering up things below the steering wheel)&lt;br&gt;
- Locate the antenna motor, this can be done by actuating the motor several times and locating it by sound&lt;br&gt;
- Disconnect the antenna plug from the radio, there should be an inline plug so the antenna will be free to be removed&lt;br&gt;
- The antenna motor can be behind the fuse boxes and wiring, if so these will need to be unbolted and moved to one side or removed completely (label all connectors so they can be put back again)&lt;br&gt;
- When the antenna has been located it will need to be fully extended&lt;br&gt;
- A screw can often be found at the base of the antenna pole on the motor housing which holds the antenna pole onto the motor housing. This screw should be unscrewed&lt;br&gt;
- Using either a screwdriver or pliers pull the pole away from the motor housing. This may be difficult if the motor housing is in a confined area&lt;br&gt;
- The motor housing should now be free to remove from the car&lt;br&gt;
- Unscrew the bracket which the antenna comes through on the outside of the car.&lt;br&gt;
- Pull the antenna out from the car pillar&lt;br&gt;


Cover up the hole with a metal plate, tape or any other water proof device.


A more aerodynamically friendly location for the antenna is inside the cabin. The antenna will not pick up a great signal but may people have moved their antennas to the cabin and either have no static or can put up with the lower radio quality. 

After removing the antenna from the standard mounting location the antenna can be set up in its extended state then it can usually be mounted to the back of the passenger seat or another easy location in the cabin. The standard cables may extend long enough to reach the radio in which case the antenna can just plug in and work.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link
|-
|Saand || Mazda, 626, 1991 || $0 || 4 Hours || ||  || 0.165% Theoretical improvement using following information &lt;br&gt; || The antenna was in the car pillar which makes it very hard to remove which is why it took 4 hours
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==
Poor radio reception depending on antenna alternative

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/simple-antenna-aero-mod-2617.html Simple antenna aero mod (relocation, Geo Metro)]

=== External links ===
[http://www.crxmpg.com/crx-radio-antenna-removal/ Removing your radio antenna]

[http://www.grandmarq.net/blaze/Blaze_Pics/AE%20507%20lect%207%20Aero%20Drag%20of%20Autos.pdf Flow Field Features and Aerodynamic Drag of Passenger Car] &lt;&lt;&lt; Page 29, Antennas and Roof racks</text>
    <sha1>442a9e7defdd71a165cb1724efb4ad821bdb8eee</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>117</id>
  <revision>
    <id>199</id>
    <parentid>118</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:44:23Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="14713" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

== Open ReVolt - CellTop Battery Management System (Rev1) ==

''' CellTop Module: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUomOuSIjY63K Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXu3rGSUiuaUc Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sK1uiDx9qb7YD Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s28ADmsLHA88G Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

''' CellTop Master: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5mq5YCi6YjXO Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s4MFQqkmu13ML Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scziGCXNZJMKr Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1shxpnYU5Ngbg4 Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

''' CellTop Documents: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s0uWofVYGE5Eh Preliminary BMS User Manual (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - DC Charger Controller 6Kw (Rev3) ==

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439199/sizes/l/in/photostream/ Preliminary PCB Layout -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439151/sizes/o/in/photostream/ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scXBEcCWHENHN Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXR1VWbFY87D4 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUsqETB3N8oV1 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sEYd13KtqPKQ5 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stkveleELMIC8 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stcUKXgJItXk7 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHJFxDBK3ObI7 Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev2A) ==

[Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDiq0XqTVqeyX Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sOSW0TgM2d0y0 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjGiidbRQ0qOp Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev5A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sD6LzJxAMwvtM Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sQ0pzY4VDcAwp Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sBlTxFOxFCFFR Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDdsf6n9VKLEd Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5OKJGCOWwcEJ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sF35Efjb4SCip Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Hall Effect Current Sensor Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPlltzzhLqxfF Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHici53T0FAOz Preliminary PCB Assembly -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 03 May 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sz9IOCpgCyC6L Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - LCD Instrumentation Controller (Rev1) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1siYJfUUU3e0kK Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sp06BvWTqvs3F Preliminary BOM (excel) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1spUClAWf8vqrU Preliminary Schematic rev1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sugjur1LFWOAA Preliminary PCB Artwork rev1 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s8vMJ61vDESN2 Preliminary PCB User Manual rev1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPmgPBC108Wgy Preliminary Firmware v1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - AC Motor Controllers ==

'''Paul's ReVolt/AC Motor Controller'''
&lt;BR&gt;Schematic and PCB are in DesignSpark format.
&lt;BR&gt;Still under development. See: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-3-phase-inverter-ac-controller-10839.html the forum thread.]

'''2014 Oct 4th:'''
&lt;BR&gt;[https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4lcT_Jmb67Qd2QxYTk0Z1RqWFE&amp;usp=sharing SCH, PCB, BOM and code]

'''2010 Sept 21:'''&lt;BR&gt;
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5zHMQpeGfbap Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYLaUVLcWOoiL Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYhvximLJKQa6 Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]


'''Collin's ReVolt/VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project (2011 Nov 4) :'''

[[http://code.google.com/p/revolt-ac-controller] VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project -- 
[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Nov 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - SR Motor Controller (Rev.A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1srbpZ32Vr19de Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stsgq6v9aYC42 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scWPEOCH6j2IA Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2D) ==

'''Added File Links:'''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s7mT29cH5qNDP Reference BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5LcFcizgkxSi Reference Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sf9j9AFw34nfS Reference PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

'''Original Quick reference schematics:'''

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/CougarController_2D_1s.pdf Controller Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougar_power_2d.pdf Powerboard Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Cougar_build_test_notes.pdf Build and testing notes v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

'''Original Full archives from MCUDOGS inc schematics, pcb files and software:'''

[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/power1d.zip Power board V1d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)]  (Broken Link)

[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/controller2d.zip Controller board V2d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougarpics.pdf Pictures of the cougar 2D being built (from Ian Bartie) PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

Please note: The current software does not utilise the additional pins in the new hardware.

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Assembly_Directions_March_2010.pdf Assembly instructions for ORIGINAL hardware v2C PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

These assembly instructions detail the original boards build processes and are useful for general reference. This was released by MPaulHolmes on his site, it is included here for accesability and completeness.There is also this forum thread on assembly which is most useful. 
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-revolt-assembly-faqs-12925.html ]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2C) == 

'''Added File Links:'''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1slrYVfykEpb0V Release BOM Controller -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sSGzSxxkzUU4E Release Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDEErY2VvmJAf Release PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/ Release Firmware - Archive] 13 October 2012 (EDT)

[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Release Software - ReVolt RTD Explore] 13 October 2012 (EDT)

'''Original File Links:'''

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Changes_for_Revision_2C.doc Cougar Controller Changes for Revision 2C DOC --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf Bottom Layer rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf  Top Layer rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf  Component Layer rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf  Controller Schematic PDF rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic_All.pdf  Controller Schematic PDF rev2C All PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[[Open ReVolt Rev2C Mouser BOM Cut/Paste Import]]
- Cut and Paste this into the Mouser BOM import tool to load all the control board parts.  Be sure to check for items that are temporarily out of stock.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2B) == 


[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/bottom_layer.pdf Bottom Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_layer.pdf Top Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_and_component.pdf Top and Component Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/component_layer.pdf Component Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic_All.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B ALL PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Controller Settings ==
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjc9rcEg4FisL ReVolt Control Parameters.doc ]

[[Open ReVolt/Controllersetting|Cougar Controller Setting Database]]

== Open ReVolt - Software ==
[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Adam's RTD Explore]

[https://www.launchpad.net/cougard Greg's CougArd Explore]

[http://live.gnome.org/moserial moserial] An open source, easy to use terminal program.

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-479.html#post238071 How to setup moserial for the Cougar]

== Open ReVolt - Case ==
[[Open ReVolt/Case|Cougar Case]]

== Open ReVolt - Problems/Failures ==

'''NOTE:''' This section is to post problems/failures that occurred in the construction and installation of ReVolt Controllers.  

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-374.html#post191429 Joe's Cougar Controller failure, repair, and fix]

== Open ReVolt - Testing ==
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html Revolt Open Source DC Controller Beta Testing]

== Open ReVolt - Specifications ==
[[Open ReVolt/Specifications|Cougar Specifications]] (broken link ???)</text>
    <sha1>617171f3b4436a09a9c210a01569437b41fb4da1</sha1>
  </revision>
  <revision>
    <id>200</id>
    <parentid>199</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:46:48Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="14606" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

== Open ReVolt - CellTop Battery Management System (Rev1) ==

''' CellTop Module: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUomOuSIjY63K Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXu3rGSUiuaUc Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sK1uiDx9qb7YD Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s28ADmsLHA88G Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

''' CellTop Master: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5mq5YCi6YjXO Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s4MFQqkmu13ML Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scziGCXNZJMKr Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1shxpnYU5Ngbg4 Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

''' CellTop Documents: '''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s0uWofVYGE5Eh Preliminary BMS User Manual (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - DC Charger Controller 6Kw (Rev3) ==

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439199/sizes/l/in/photostream/ Preliminary PCB Layout -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439151/sizes/o/in/photostream/ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scXBEcCWHENHN Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXR1VWbFY87D4 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUsqETB3N8oV1 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sEYd13KtqPKQ5 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stkveleELMIC8 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stcUKXgJItXk7 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHJFxDBK3ObI7 Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev2A) ==

[Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDiq0XqTVqeyX Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sOSW0TgM2d0y0 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjGiidbRQ0qOp Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev5A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sD6LzJxAMwvtM Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sQ0pzY4VDcAwp Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sBlTxFOxFCFFR Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDdsf6n9VKLEd Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5OKJGCOWwcEJ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sF35Efjb4SCip Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Hall Effect Current Sensor Board (Rev1A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPlltzzhLqxfF Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHici53T0FAOz Preliminary PCB Assembly -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 03 May 2011 (EDT)]

[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sz9IOCpgCyC6L Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - LCD Instrumentation Controller (Rev1) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1siYJfUUU3e0kK Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sp06BvWTqvs3F Preliminary BOM (excel) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1spUClAWf8vqrU Preliminary Schematic rev1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sugjur1LFWOAA Preliminary PCB Artwork rev1 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s8vMJ61vDESN2 Preliminary PCB User Manual rev1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPmgPBC108Wgy Preliminary Firmware v1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - AC Motor Controllers ==

'''Paul's ReVolt/AC Motor Controller'''
&lt;BR&gt;Schematic and PCB are in DesignSpark format.
&lt;BR&gt;Still under development. See: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-3-phase-inverter-ac-controller-10839.html the forum thread.]

'''2014 Oct 4th:'''
&lt;BR&gt;[https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4lcT_Jmb67Qd2QxYTk0Z1RqWFE&amp;usp=sharing SCH, PCB, BOM and code]

'''2010 Sept 21:'''&lt;BR&gt;
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5zHMQpeGfbap Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYLaUVLcWOoiL Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYhvximLJKQa6 Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]


'''Collin's ReVolt/VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project (2011 Nov 4) :'''

[[http://code.google.com/p/revolt-ac-controller] VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project -- 
[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Nov 2011 (EDT)]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - SR Motor Controller (Rev.A) ==

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1srbpZ32Vr19de Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stsgq6v9aYC42 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scWPEOCH6j2IA Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2D) ==

'''Added File Links:'''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s7mT29cH5qNDP Reference BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5LcFcizgkxSi Reference Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sf9j9AFw34nfS Reference PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]

'''Original Quick reference schematics:'''

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/CougarController_2D_1s.pdf Controller Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougar_power_2d.pdf Powerboard Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Cougar_build_test_notes.pdf Build and testing notes v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

'''Original Full archives from MCUDOGS inc schematics, pcb files and software:'''

[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/power1d.zip Power board V1d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)]  (Broken Link)

[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/controller2d.zip Controller board V2d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)]  (Broken Link)

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougarpics.pdf Pictures of the cougar 2D being built (from Ian Bartie) PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

Please note: The current software does not utilise the additional pins in the new hardware.

[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Assembly_Directions_March_2010.pdf Assembly instructions for ORIGINAL hardware v2C PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]]  2 June 2010]  (Broken Link)

These assembly instructions detail the original boards build processes and are useful for general reference. This was released by MPaulHolmes on his site, it is included here for accesability and completeness.There is also this forum thread on assembly which is most useful. 
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-revolt-assembly-faqs-12925.html ]

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== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2C) == 

'''Added File Links:'''

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1slrYVfykEpb0V Release BOM Controller -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sSGzSxxkzUU4E Release Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDEErY2VvmJAf Release PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]

[http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/ Release Firmware - Archive] 13 October 2012 (EDT)

[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Release Software - ReVolt RTD Explore] 13 October 2012 (EDT)

'''Original File Links:'''

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Changes_for_Revision_2C.doc Cougar Controller Changes for Revision 2C DOC --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf Bottom Layer rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf  Top Layer rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf  Component Layer rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf  Controller Schematic PDF rev2C PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic_All.pdf  Controller Schematic PDF rev2C All PDF  --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)

[[Open ReVolt Rev2C Mouser BOM Cut/Paste Import]]
- Cut and Paste this into the Mouser BOM import tool to load all the control board parts.  Be sure to check for items that are temporarily out of stock.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2B) == 


[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/bottom_layer.pdf Bottom Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_layer.pdf Top Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_and_component.pdf Top and Component Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/component_layer.pdf Component Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic_All.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B ALL PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]

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== Open ReVolt - Controller Settings ==
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjc9rcEg4FisL ReVolt Control Parameters.doc ]

[[Open ReVolt/Controllersetting|Cougar Controller Setting Database]]

== Open ReVolt - Software ==
[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Adam's RTD Explore]

[https://www.launchpad.net/cougard Greg's CougArd Explore]

[http://live.gnome.org/moserial moserial] An open source, easy to use terminal program.

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-479.html#post238071 How to setup moserial for the Cougar]

== Open ReVolt - Case ==
[[Open ReVolt/Case|Cougar Case]]

== Open ReVolt - Problems/Failures ==

'''NOTE:''' This section is to post problems/failures that occurred in the construction and installation of ReVolt Controllers.  

[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-374.html#post191429 Joe's Cougar Controller failure, repair, and fix]

== Open ReVolt - Testing ==
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html Revolt Open Source DC Controller Beta Testing]</text>
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  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Open ReVolt Rev2C Mouser BOM Cut/Paste Import</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>184</id>
  <revision>
    <id>201</id>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:49:17Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <comment>Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}}  This list was current as of 1/31/12. It's an easy way to load all of the parts into Mouser.  In Mouser, go to 'Services and Tools'/BOM Import Tool.  Be..."</comment>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="1034" xml:space="preserve">{{Open ReVolt Header}}

This list was current as of 1/31/12. It's an easy way to load all of the parts into Mouser.  In Mouser, go to 'Services and Tools'/BOM Import Tool.  Below the two button options is the 'Part List Uploader'.  Just copy and paste the list below and you're set.


 EEU-FC1E471|1
 EEU-FC1E101S|1
 UPW1E100MDD|1
 K104K15X7RF5TH5|13
 RPER71H223K2K1A03B|2
 RPE5C1H150J2P1Z03B|2
 FK26X7R1C475K|5
 TRS202ECN|1
 STTH1R02QRL|1
 511-P6KE18A|2
 512-1N4148TR|1
 SSL-LX5093LGD|1
 SSL-LX5093LYD|1
 512-1N5237B|1
 821-1N5818|2
 22-05-3031|1
 90131-0123|1
 22-01-3047|1
 22-01-3037|1
 08-50-0114|7
 RN102-1-02|1
 FQPF27P06|1
 2N3904TFR|1
 2N3906TFR|1
 294-1.0-RC|1
 MF1/4DC1002F|2
 MF1/4DC7500F|1
 MF1/4DC3300F|2
 MF1/4DC2200F|1
 MF1/4DC3001F|2
 MF1/4DC4701F|9
 MF1/4DC2002F|1
 MF1/4DC3741F|1
 MF1/4DC1001F|9
 MF1/4DC2001F|2
 271-22-RC|10
 B57862S103F40|1
 512-LM7805CT|1
 595-LM4040D25ILP|1
 TLP222G (F)|1
 EC4A02H|1
 ATMEGA168-20PU|1
 511-M74HC00|1
 HCPL-4504-000E|1
 LM393NG|1
 HCPL-817-000E|1
 3362P-1-501LF|1
 FOXLF160-20|1</text>
    <sha1>1cc4114f21cb33304d8a22cb691823c158810463</sha1>
  </revision>
</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180717203327|153">
  <title>Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>25</id>
  <revision>
    <id>202</id>
    <parentid>26</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:51:25Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="12014" xml:space="preserve">[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]&lt;br&gt;
&lt;big&gt;'''Side and Rear View Mirror Laws by Province (Canada)'''&lt;/big&gt;

This page is a collection of laws and regulations regarding side and rear view mirrors in the provinces of Canada. Use this as a reference as you consider the legal implications of a side view mirror delete. (Help it grow)

'''United-States Mirrors Laws by States (U.S.) :''' [[Mirror Laws by State (U.S.)]]

==Quebec==

''C-24.2 262''. 
Every motor vehicle, other than a motorcycle or moped, must be equipped with at least two rear-view mirrors, one solidly attached to the interior of the vehicle at the centre of the upper part of the windshield, and the other, to the exterior of the vehicle on the left side.

Exterior mirror.
When the interior rear-view mirror cannot be used, another rear-view mirror must be attached to the exterior of the vehicle on the right side.

Trailer or semi-trailer.
Where the motor vehicle draws a trailer or a semi-trailer, rear-view mirrors must be attached so as to enable the driver to have a clear view to the back of the combination of vehicles:

one rear-view mirror attached to the exterior of the motor vehicle on the left side if the existing rear-view mirror cannot be used; and

another rear-view mirror attached to the exterior of the motor vehicle on the right side if the existing interior or exterior rear-view mirror on the right side cannot be used.

Special permit.
When an outsized vehicle referred to in the third paragraph is operated under a special permit, the presence of an escort vehicle behind the outsized vehicle may compensate for the absence of rear-view mirrors.

==Ontario==
Highway Traffic Act

Other equipment Windshield wiper, mirror

66.  (1)  Every motor vehicle other than a motorcycle shall be equipped with,

(a) a device for cleaning rain, snow and other moisture from the windshield so constructed as to be controlled or operated by the driver;

(b) a mirror or mirrors securely attached to the vehicle and placed in such a position as to afford the driver a clearly reflected view of the roadway in the rear, or of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

==Manitoba==

The Highway Traffic Act
C.C.S.M. c. H60

"Mirror equipment"

Section: 42(1)       Every motor vehicle and every school bus shall be equipped with a mirror, securely attached thereto and placed in such a position as to afford the driver, while driving, a clear view of the roadway in the rear and of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

[http://web2.gov.mb.ca/laws/statutes/ccsm/h060e.php Link to Unofficial Version]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:56, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Saskatchewan==

CHAPTER V-2.1 REG 10
The Vehicle Administration Act

[[Mirrors]]
4 Sep 87 cV-2.1 Reg 10 Section 67
(Applies to "type-A vehicles" only. See below for explanation. 

(1) A vehicle other than a modified vintage vehicle, shall have at least two rearview
mirrors.

(2) The mirrors shall:
    
    (a) be located one on the left side and one either on the right side or in the interior;
    (b) provide the driver with a clear view to the rear;
    (c) be securely mounted; and
    (d) be adjustable;

(3) An interior mirror, and a left hand exterior mirror on a type A-1 vehicle, shall
have at least 6000 millimetres2 of effective area or the area of mirror installed by
the manufacturer, whichever is less.

(4) A right hand exterior mirror on a vehicle other than a type A-2 vehicle shall
have at least 10000 millimetres2 of effective area where it is a mirror other than
one installed by the manufacturer.

(5) An exterior mirror on a type A-2 vehicle shall have at least 20000 millimetres2
of effective area.

(6) A modified vintage vehicle shall have at least one mirror that provides the
driver with a clear view to the rear.


Section 2:

(oo) “type A vehicle” means a self-propelled vehicle designed for operation
on highways and includes a car, truck, van, motorhome, multipurpose
passenger vehicle, power unit and bus as defined in CMVSS and type A-1 to
type A-3 vehicles, but does not include a vintage vehicle, all-terrain vehicle,
motorcyle or special mobile machine;

(pp) “type A-1 vehicle” means a type A vehicle that is a car, truck, van,
multipurpose passenger vehicle or truck that is 2060 millimetres or less in
width;

(qq) “type A-2 vehicle” means a type A vehicle that is a bus, power unit,
chassis cab or truck that is more than 2060 millimetres width;


[http://www.publications.gov.sk.ca/redirect.cfm?p=1588&amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eqp%2Egov%2Esk%2Eca%2Fdocuments%2FEnglish%2FRegulations%2FRegulations%2FV2%2D1R10%2Epdf PDF copy from Queen's Printer]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:55, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Alberta==

TRAFFIC SAFETY ACT, Vehicle Equipment Regulation (AR 122/2009)

Section 74, "Rear view mirror"

(1) A motor vehicle must have an inside rear view mirror that
gives the driver a clear view of the roadway behind the vehicle and
of any other vehicle approaching from behind.

(2) If the view in the rear view mirror is obstructed or interfered
with in any way, a motor vehicle must have side mirrors on each
side that give the driver a clear view of the roadway behind and on
each side of the motor vehicle.

(3) If a motor vehicle is equipped by a manufacturer with an
outside rear view mirror attached to the left side of the motor
vehicle, the rear view mirror must be maintained in good working
order.

(4) A self-propelled implement of husbandry must have a rear
view mirror that gives the driver a clear view of the roadway
behind the implement of husbandry and of any other vehicle
approaching from behind.


Link to PDF from Queen's printer: [http://www.qp.alberta.ca/documents/Regs/2009_122.pdf Vehicle Equipment Reg]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:56, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==British Colombia==


Motor Vehicle Act: Motor Vehicle Act Regulations

[includes amendments up to B.C. Reg. 90/2012, April 20, 2012]

Division 7 — Other Equipment 

[["Mirrors" Section 7.04]]

(1)  Subject to subsections (3) and (4), every motor vehicle shall be equipped with an inside mirror that provides the driver with an undistorted reflected view of the highway directly to the rear of the vehicle extending to the horizon from a point on the road surface not more than 61 m behind the vehicle.

(2)  In addition to the requirements of subsections (1) and (3), every motor vehicle manufactured after January 1, 1973 shall be equipped with an outside mirror on the driver's side that provides the driver with an undistorted reflected view of the adjacent lane of the highway rearward to the horizon from a point on the road surface 11 m behind the driver.

(3)  Where the inside mirror of a motor vehicle does not provide the view required by subsection (1), the vehicle shall be equipped with a second outside mirror on the side of the vehicle opposite the driver and in that case the inside mirror may be removed.

(4)  Where a trailer or semitrailer in a combination of vehicles diminishes the driver's reflected rear view through the rear view mirrors required by subsections (1) to (3), the towing vehicle in the combination of vehicles shall be equipped with 2 mirrors, one affixed to each side of the motor vehicle, and each to provide the driver with an undistorted reflected view of the adjacent lane of the highway from a point on the road surface 11 m behind the driver to a point on the road surface 61 m from the rear of the combination of vehicles.

[en. B.C. Reg. 5/83, s. 2.]
[http://www.bclaws.ca/EPLibraries/bclaws_new/document/ID/freeside/26_58_04 PDF version from Queen's Printer]

==New-Brunswick==

Motor Vehicle Act, RSNB 1973, c M-17

Section 237:
Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror so located and adjusted as to reflect to the driver without obstruction by any part of the vehicle or load thereon a view of the highway for a distance of at least sixty metres to the rear of such vehicle.

[http://www.canlii.org/en/nb/laws/stat/rsnb-1973-c-m-17/latest/rsnb-1973-c-m-17.html Canlii version of the Act]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:56, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Nova Scotia==


Standards of Vehicle Equipment Regulations

made under Section 200 of the
Motor Vehicle Act
R.S.N.S. 1989, c. 293
O.I.C. 85-216 (March 12, 1985), N.S. Reg. 51/85 

Section 19 Every vehicle shall be equipped with a rear view mirror which is not discoloured or cracked or otherwise damaged to an extent which would impair a driver's vision. 

[http://www.gov.ns.ca/just/regulations/regs/mvstdsve.htm Link to Queen's Printer Consolidation]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:57, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Newfoundland and Labrador==

Licensing and Equipment Regulations
(O.C. 96-211) 


Mirrors, Section 33.2 
(1) Every motor vehicle shall be equipped with a mirror securely attached to it and placed in a position that will afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and of a vehicle approaching from the rear.

(2)  Where the view afforded by the mirror required under subsection (1) is obstructed or interfered with, a side rear view mirror shall be attached to each side of the motor vehicle and shall be placed so as to afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and to each side of the motor vehicle.

(3)  The towing vehicle in every combination of motor vehicles shall, when the trailer or semi-trailer is so designed that it impedes the rear view of the driver through a mirror as provided in subsection (1), be equipped with 2 mirrors, one affixed to each side of the motor vehicle and both to provide the driver with a clear view of the roadway to the rear of the combination of vehicles.

(4)  A mirror shall be securely mounted and maintain a set adjustment.

(5)  A mirror shall not be cracked. 

[http://www.assembly.nl.ca/legislation/sr/regulations/rc961007.htm Link to Unofficial Version]
--[[User:Cereal Killer|Cereal Killer]] 18:57, 13 November 2012 (EST)

==Prince Edward Island==
Every motor vehicle, other than a farm tractor, must be equipped with a mirror located and adjusted to give the driver an unobstructed rear view for at least 60 meters to the rear of the vehicle.

The operator of a towing vehicle which has an exterior accessory rearview mirror which extends beyond the length of a fixed standard mirror, or more than 10 inches beyond the body of the towing vehicle, must remove or fix the exterior accessory rearview mirror so that it is 250 mm or less beyond the body of the towing vehicle when the equipment being towed is disconnected.

[http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/trailer-mirrors/]

==Yukon==
MOTOR VEHICLES ACT
Motor Vehicles Equipment Regulations, YOIC 1987/86 

Rear view mirror

(1) Every motor vehicle shall carry a mirror securely attached to it and placed in a position that will afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

(2) Where the view afforded by the mirror required under subsection (1) is obstructed or interfered with in any manner, a side rear vision mirror shall be attached to each side of the motor vehicle and shall be placed in such a position as to afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and to each side of the motor vehicle.

(3) In addition to any mirrors required under subsections (1) and (2), every new motor vehicle sold shall carry a side rear vision mirror attached to the left side of the motor vehicle in such a position as to afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear left side of the vehicle.

(4) Every self-propelled implement of husbandry when operated on a highway shall carry a mirror securely attached to it and placed in a position that will afford the driver a clear view of the roadway to the rear and of any vehicle approaching from the rear.

==North-West Territory==
''Information required:'' What is the law about mirrors in this province?
==Nunavut==
''Information required:'' What is the law about mirrors in this province?</text>
    <sha1>138dc766880b06545e92e150c337b261ec238f8c</sha1>
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</page>
<page arvcontinue="20180718195858|203">
  <title>Electrical Loads</title>
  <ns>0</ns>
  <id>97</id>
  <revision>
    <id>203</id>
    <parentid>98</parentid>
    <timestamp>2018-07-18T19:58:58Z</timestamp>
    <contributor>
      <username>MetroMPG</username>
      <id>1</id>
    </contributor>
    <model>wikitext</model>
    <format>text/x-wiki</format>
    <text bytes="2995" xml:space="preserve">[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]

[[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]
'''Introduction'''&lt;br&gt;
Alternator deletes have been shown to increase fuel economy as much as 10%. Many people will not be able to remove their alternator completely however reducing the electrical loads used by your car will reduce the power the alternator takes from the engine and therefore reduced electrical loads can achieve a small amount of this 10% improvement.

== Instructions for mod ==
Several things can be done to reduce the electrical loads in a car&lt;br&gt;
-Removing light bulbs in car doors&lt;br&gt;
-Remove useless indicator lights in cluster (speedometer unit)
-Disconnect any redundant break lights that aren't legally required
-Changing required cabin light bulbs to LEDs&lt;br&gt;
-Change brake lights, indicator lights and parker lights to LEDs&lt;br&gt;
-Disconnecting inbuilt car clock&lt;br&gt;
-Not turning on radio&lt;br&gt;
-Disable automatic raising/lowering of car antenna&lt;br&gt;
-Reducing size of grill block so that electric fan doesn't run often&lt;br&gt;

An ammeter can be used to check the current the car is taking from the batter and therefore from the alternator. Using an ammeter will give an idea of how effecting a change will be on the cars efficiency.

Without reducing the electrical load a ecomodder can control when the alternator takes energy from the drive train (desirable when the brake pedal is used). This can be done by a solenoid controlled by a switch or the brake pedal. The solenoid would connect the alternator to the battery to charge the battery only when the driver wants to take energy from the drive train to charge the battery.

== User experiences  ==
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br&gt;
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1
|+ User data
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link
|-
|MetroMPG || Pontiac, Firefly, 1998 || $0 ||  || 70.68 || 78.08 || 7.4 (10.4%) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% MPG gain @ 70 km/h]
|-
|saand ||  ||  ||  ||  ||  || 0.55% for 50W theoretical calculation based on equations show in link below [dead link] || 
|-
|brucey || 00 Outback ||  ||  || 35.55 MPG (off) || 34.6 MPG (on) || 0.95 MPG, or around 2.5% ABA test of headlights on and off A (off) 35.5 B (on) 34.6 A2 35.6 110 watts when on. || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-cost-headlights-15179.html Experiment: The cost of Headlights]]
|}

== Problems / Consequences of mod ==

== References ==
=== Forum thread links ===
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% gain @ 70 km/h]

[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-cost-headlights-15179.html Experiment: The cost of Headlights]]

=== External links ===</text>
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